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Error85

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am new to diy grow lights. i recently purchased MAU5-X Grow Kit, i bought two of them. first one with 3000k with cri 90 and second was 6500k. my plan was to use 6500k for veg and 3000k for flowing, am i wrong on this setup and if so how do i need to change this up? Thank you so much for inspiring me on this diy project. Thank you for all you do
p.s hope i didnt wast my money :(


if anyone could explain on why people are going for 3500k, 4000k and 5000k cobs that be great to understand
 
REALSTYLES

REALSTYLES

Well-Known Member
Error85 said:
am new to diy grow lights. i recently purchased MAU5-X Grow Kit, i bought two of them. first one with 3000k with cri 90 and second was 6500k. my plan was to use 6500k for veg and 3000k for flowing, am i wrong on this setup and if so how do i need to change this up? Thank you so much for inspiring me on this diy project. Thank you for all you do
p.s hope i didnt wast my money :(


if anyone could explain on why people are going for 3500k, 4000k and 5000k cobs that be great to understand
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3500k one step veg to flower some use 4000k for both and 5000k for veg. I use 6500k for veg I haven't tried flowering with them yet. I'm currently making 2 500w panels as we speak just waiting on the plug receptacles which will be 7-26-2016 Wednesday

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Error85

New Member
to my understanding 3000k will give me the red spectrum i need for flowing and 6500k will give me the best veg? with your setup how much of an area are u covering and what kind pars are u getting out of that? i will be adding t5 for uvb for veg and flowing
 
REALSTYLES

REALSTYLES

Well-Known Member
Error85 said:
to my understanding 3000k will give me the red spectrum i need for flowing and 6500k will give me the best veg? with your setup how much of an area are u covering and what kind pars are u getting out of that? i will be adding t5 for uvb for veg and flowing
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Right now it's super hot during the day 100F where I live and I don't run any AC. I have a 4x8 Gorilla tent with 5 400w panels turned down to 200w each a total 1000w for that area and here's a pic I just took for you and this is under 3500k from veg til now which is day 4 of week 3 of flower

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and Par what do you mean by that? Par watts? or do you mean umoles ?
 
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Error85

New Member
do you have a par meter to measure PPFD? i was wondering what you are getting from that? how much does one cob cover per sq ft. i am looking for a 5x5 or 6x6 not sure yet. Thank you again for all the information you have given me
 
sunni

sunni

Administrator
Staff member
sixstring2112 said:
your gunna love the winters here,you can actually go outside lol.plus now when people ask where ya live you can just hold up your left hand and point to the spot hahaha.
welcome to the mitten sunni

@JorgeGonzales you need to get out of the led section more often if you thouhght sunni was a dude lmao
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I'm actually from UP Michigan on the Canadian side I'm excited to go back :)
 
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CityWok Buds

Member
el noob question id appreciate if anyone could help me with. Why is the 3590 im looking at rated using CRI when spectrum is 3500 or greater and rated using Ra when uder 3500? ex. [[[[CXB3590, CREE CXB3590 **3500**K CD 36V 80**CRI**, CXB3590-0000-000N0HCD35G]]]] [[[[CREE CXB3590 **3000**K, CB 36V 80**Ra**, Original CREE Xlamp CXB leds]]]] just beginning to learn and couldnt find info on Ra really. Also if only being used for flowering the 3k would be slightly superior to the 3.5k? thanks for any help
 
Rahz

Rahz

Well-Known Member
They are two different standards. CRI uses more colors and should be more accurate but even a light source with high CRI doesn't necessarily correlate with a noon day Sun's SPD. As it stands high CRI LED does tend to have a better profile, but ultimately the light qualities we look for in maximizing plant growth and the qualities that are used to judge a lights faithful color rendition are not the same. Better to look at the blue/green/red ratios and peaks. At some point the lighting industry will probably update the color correlation standards to more faithfully reflect the Sun's noon spectrum. The way things are now, a higher K lower CRI will look more natural than a low K high CRI source. Even when this changes it may not be useful for horticulture and maybe at some point horticultural standard/s will be developed.
 
Hybridway

Hybridway

Well-Known Member
Rahz said:
They are two different standards. CRI uses more colors and should be more accurate but even a light source with high CRI doesn't necessarily correlate with a noon day Sun's SPD. As it stands high CRI LED does tend to have a better profile, but ultimately the light qualities we look for in maximizing plant growth and the qualities that are used to judge a lights faithful color rendition are not the same. Better to look at the blue/green/red ratios and peaks. At some point the lighting industry will probably update the color correlation standards to more faithfully reflect the Sun's noon spectrum. The way things are now, a higher K lower CRI will look more natural than a low K high CRI source. Even when this changes it may not be useful for horticulture and maybe at some point horticultural standard/s will be developed.
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You mean like the Amare Spectrum in one Cob?
 
Rahz

Rahz

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As far as I know we're just playing with morphology. People have pulled 1.5 GPW from HPS, so it's up to you to do the work to prove whatever you're suggesting.
 
Hybridway

Hybridway

Well-Known Member
Rahz said:
They are two different standards. CRI uses more colors and should be more accurate but even a light source with high CRI doesn't necessarily correlate with a noon day Sun's SPD. As it stands high CRI LED does tend to have a better profile, but ultimately the light qualities we look for in maximizing plant growth and the qualities that are used to judge a lights faithful color rendition are not the same. Better to look at the blue/green/red ratios and peaks. At some point the lighting industry will probably update the color correlation standards to more faithfully reflect the Sun's noon spectrum.

I was replying to your last sentence. I don't know how to quote sent. Not computer savvy.
Anyways, the LED grow light industry already has done this! Unless I'm missing something here? 95 CRI peaked in the Chloro A+B (R+B), specifically designed to match the spectrum of the sun at high noon on the Equatorial line! And yes, it grows the plants with what I feel is all they have! Full bore!
But yes, having it all in one LES would be nice.
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Rahz

Rahz

Well-Known Member
That was my point with a 20 some CRI HPS lamp producing enviable results. There are horticultural reference spectrums but no industry standards as far as I know. Besides that we will need canna-specific data.

I'm glad you feel your Amare grows with all they have, and I've never said they were bad lamps but you understand that your feelings don't prove things I'm sure. My preference when we are discussing spectrum tweaking and morphology would be to leave brands out of it. The only time I'm talking about Tasty lamps is when I'm talking about Tasty lamps. I'll be doing some proxy testing on some Citi cobs over the next 3-6 months and will hopefully have some useful data to share at that time. I expect to see some morphology differences but don't suspect notable yield differences, though if the results are surprising that will be good to know. Until then, or until someone else I consider trustworthy puts out some controlled grow data I will continue to feel strongly that within the context of a reasonable spectrum 3000-4000K 70-90 CRI the overwhelming factor regarding yield is how many photons are hitting the plant. You can't just compare two lamps with known wattage from the wall and conclude that one has a better spectrum, much less the best possible.
 
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