Is it ok to just have fresh air intake and no exhuast.... like there is a passive exhaust but nothing like the fan used for the fresh air intake....
is this ok for the plants or should there also be a an exhuast?
What that's gonna do is create positive pressure in the cab, and not really cool things off all that well. If you have positive pressure that means the air from inside will be constantly seeping out, if you're trying to control odours that's a problem.
the way i understand it you need exhaust not only too take the bad air out but when you attach it to a fiter the smell goes also ive only been growin a yr. and i started with a charcoal filter attached to a centrifigul fan also attached to my light so it cools the light takes bad air out and the smell works great TEN MIN AFTER IT KICKS ON YOU CANT SMELL NOTHIN IN THERE EVEN IN FULL FLOWER sorry hit caps lock wouldnt trade it for nothin
You need a sealed room to use CO2 enrichment, your intake and exhaust have to be on timers.
the fan should be on the exhaust side. That way it can rid the room of moist used air, and the passive opening for the intake will replace room with cool, clean,dry air. Just be sure to put a filter on to control smell.
the fan should be on the exhaust side. That way it can rid the room of moist used air, and the passive opening for the intake will replace room with cool, clean,dry air. Just be sure to put a filter on to control smell.
more air out and ur heat and humidity will stay low
Totally agree with this. If u gotta go passive go with it on the intake side.
Yes the exhaust should be up high and the fan should be mounted here. The intake should be located opposite the exhaust. Most people keep it low, but I didn't. I have mine 3/4 the the hieght of the room. Cold air and co2 sink. So when I draw passive air in, I want it to sink down over my plants cooling and supplying them with co2( remember, outside air is FULL of co2). The hot air automaticly rises and causes a natural draft.
Doing it this way constantly gives them co2, so there is no need for a system.(co2 will only work well if the temps are quite high. I like my temps 75*).
Either way, its always best to exhaust air out than pump air in. My buddy blows air in his room with no exhaust and his dehumidifier is always working(generating heat) and his room gets to hot. You need to rid the room of used air and moisture.
seasmoke is right on the button. people listen up!! Heres is a small simple lesson in cooling a grow OP. Fresh Air is all of our Goals!
The best exhaust system whether u cool ur hoods or not, is a passive intake and active exhaust. This method can be used with or without Co2. (i know nothing of Co2). I imagine to incorporate co2 you would want timers, or atmospheric controlers with settings for your exhaust fan.
How this works is similiar to a high powered batheroom fan. the bathroom fans are generally ducted thru the roof to the outside world. It is very easy to intall roof vents, and humid air should be definitly removed from attic spaces if living in colder climates....
When the cieling fan turns on it removes stale, hot , smelly air, from the cieling area. As the air is removed it creates pressure in the room, and starts drawing air from anywhere it can. This is called passive intake. If you dont give it a place to suck its passive air, itll suck from door or casing cracks, anywhere it can pull air. If you give it a straw to suck from it'll suck from that spot. So if you can punch a hole into another adjacent room , or a crawl space (a cool air sorce), you use that for your intake. When the room is sealed, and the exhaust fan at top of room in running, nice cool air will flood in from the intake. If you open your grow room door to see this effect, your exhaust fan will start sucking air from the door you just opened instead of your intake. Make sense?
So instead of a bathroom fan i use a 6'' inline 400cfm fan running 24/7 in my budd room at cieling height ducted to a carbon filter, going right out the roof vent. i have a 6'' hole cut in my subfloor leading under the house. i shoved 6'' flex duct to the intake hole, and ran it to the cieiling. As seasmoke mentioned , my intake will then let cool air sink down , also conviently mixing with the hottest room air at the top. Which is also where i mount a couple osillating fans. Up high...
Ive notice alot of guys running bigger exhaust fans. i just wanted to finally say im able to cool about 10 lamps with that 6'' exhaust and my intake running 24/7 . but thats allso due to climate, cooling the hoods, and the sq footage of the room the grow is located in correlates to the heat. hope this helps any1 tackling vent issues
it would still create an ongoing draft coming from the intake straw so to speak. Not nearly as strong as a draft when the bud room door is closed and the exhaust is running. if you have ur carbon scrubbber hooked to the cieling mounting inline exhausting on a thermostat or timer, ive noticed from down time you can catch smell . so i run mine 24/7, to make sure the air is being scrubbed. Thats obviously a problem with co2 users. also passive intake thats direct to the outside air can be problematic in the winter time if your in a cold environment. if your sucking frezzing cold air youll sweat all over the place in the room from condensation. That should be duly noted in the same regard as venting to a attic in a cold winter area. Dont do it!! Run a line thru the ridge, unless you have plenty of gable venting!. So back to passive intake, i draw cooler air from another source, my crawl space under the home. Its different for every grow site, but passive air is so key. you dont ever need to blow intake with a fan. i started this common mistake by thinking venting my lights was exhausting the room. wrong. exhausting lamps is exhausting just that. stilll got to exhaust the room. better the room then the light itself if your hoods not a ventable make. hope this all makes sense. Hit me up if u gotz ne questions i can answer.