Is this nute burn???

You can buy a cheap water PH tester from your local pet shop, you can test the soil PH with litmus paper.
Hosing down your plants as you do is most likely raising the humidity in your small grow area. (fan good!)
Foliar feedings are good with fertilizers, because if you over do it, it's temporary, all you have to do is stop.
You don't get what is basically salts building up in your soil. Speaking of soil, Scotts sells many kinds, did you
use potting soil? Dumb question, maybe? How about that sand, you didn't collect it on a ocean beach?
I have no doubt that the problems are the soils why???
Hey, you're in college take a horticulture class and give us some lessons...LOL
Just a thought...
On a positive note my friend, the new growth looks healthy.
The plants are small enough and young enough, I would transplant them into a good quality soil like
FOXFARM Ocean Forest Potting Soil, using larger pots for your soil will help. Use some B1 fertilizer in the hole and water with the same after transplant. This will get your roots off to a good start, if you don't have good roots, you wont have good buds. This has been proved to me many times over the years.
Your Temps are right on the money...
Keep the humidity below 50%
Also keep in mind some strains and F1's can be sensitive to molds, pests, diseases and irrigation.
I found this out growing White Widow, which has been a challenge.
When you get some extra cash, buy a hardy, easy to grow strain from the Attitude Seed Bank.
Your first grow you'll always remember, the last the best...

Zacarino said:

Okay... this make sense. I do have a few questions though. Firstly, is it better that I try and wait out this plague I set on my plants, or should I try to flush the nutrients out of the soil and then water them with diluted fertilizer later?

If that's a good idea, how long should I wait before watering them with 1/4 or so diluted fertilizer?

Also, how long should I wait before transferring my other 3 plants into the newly made up soil (if at all?). Will the pre-fertilized soils be damaging to the plants if they're about 3 or 4 weeks old?

Lastly, targeting your last question. When (if) they pull through this, should I give them more light? I don't have the funds to be buying lights that run for $60 or more as I am a poor cheap college student . Suggestions? I've tried lining open areas with tinfoil and reflective material in hopes to catch any escaping or reflecting light and give the plants all they can get... I got the seedlings to grow exceedingly fast this way despite the low power of light.

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Dude.. I penned you a nice, detailed answer, and the g-damned server kicked it out. Can't go thru it again.. sorry.

Anyway, looks like SubZero has given you good answers to most of your remaining questions.

One other thing I spotted == your containers are not completely opaque. Light may be getting to the roots, even thru those labels. So, if you decide to transplant, change that while you're at it. And, what used to be in those containers? They look like they came from a cleaner or something (hope not..). If so, that may explain your sudden decline more than anything. Nute problems usually take time to show up.. more than a day for sure.

You can get decent plastic pots with drainholes at KMart for $1.50 apiece..

Lastly, on pH == all the cheap methods SUCK!! Soil pH is tough; takes good equipment. Tablet tests, dip sticks, cheap probes are better than nothing. BUT, you can't measure down to the 0.5 point with these. You can tell a 6.0 from an 8.0, but that's about as good as these get.

Good luck..

The containers are the bottom parts of Sunny D bottles . I washed them thoroughly, though I doubt Sunny D will have any kind of major effect. I will get right on to covering up the outsides of the containers... I didn't know that light could be damaging the roots through these.

Thanks for your detailed response Kreigs... now I just wish I got it :O

I transplanted two of the four back into the original soil to see if they will improve. I left the bigger of the alleged nute burned plants and a smaller one that looked the healthiest in the new soil and am keeping as much light as I can on them.


After a week or so I hope to move the plants back into the newly made soil... If they've recovered from the burns. Hopefully their roots will still be half decent after being moved around so much -_-.

If anyone has any suggestions, feel free to write. Also, where is a good site I can get some damn cheap lamps? I'm looking for lamps with screw in bulbs that are cheap!

Zacarino said:

The containers are the bottom parts of Sunny D bottles . I washed them thoroughly, though I doubt Sunny D will have any kind of major effect. I will get right on to covering up the outsides of the containers... I didn't know that light could be damaging the roots through these.

Thanks for your detailed response Kreigs... now I just wish I got it :O

I transplanted two of the four back into the original soil to see if they will improve. I left the bigger of the alleged nute burned plants and a smaller one that looked the healthiest in the new soil and am keeping as much light as I can on them.


After a week or so I hope to move the plants back into the newly made soil... If they've recovered from the burns. Hopefully their roots will still be half decent after being moved around so much -_-.

If anyone has any suggestions, feel free to write. Also, where is a good site I can get some damn cheap lamps? I'm looking for lamps with screw in bulbs that are cheap!

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Okay... I imagine SunnyD can be washed out well, shouldn't be a problem.

I would suggest covering the containers to make them opaque, and stand pat for awhile at this point.

Check out 1000bulbs.com for cheap lights as a start. Just FYI, Home Depot, Lowe's etc. carry CFL's up to 40W, sometimes more.. cheapest it gets.

Zacarino said:

Hey guys. I'm a new member here and it's my first time ever trying to grow. I honestly used some random soil I found in my apartment already to see if they'd grow at all, and it turns out they grew great. However, when I made up a soil mixture of approx 20% perlite, 10% sand, and 70% Scott's soil and transplanted 4 of the 7, I went to class and came back and they looked bad. They've been getting worse but I'm too new to tell whether its a nutrient deficiency or if they've been over fertilized.

I haven't fertilized them at all whatsoever (I have been foiler feeding them a few times a day, but not with fertilizer added), but the Scott's soil has nutrients that are in it and release over time (I know that's bad but it's all I could find)

Also note that I moved these plants rather early. I moved them into the newly made soil after about 1.5 weeks

Someone please help me out! What does this look like to you?

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it's prolly more likely your PH it should be at 6.5 and looks like nitrogen, potassium difentiancy....

LAX Skunky BwS said:

it's prolly more likely your PH it should be at 6.5 and looks like nitrogen, potassium difentiancy....

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Sorry, LAX.. bad advice. Most commercial potting soils don't come with pH problems and certainly not nutrient deficiencies. Problems with pH develop over time as fertilizers added by the grower gradually reduce pH.

well i see yellowing in them leafes and thats cuz of the ph is to low and lac of nitrogen... i dunno btw i didnt give any advice i jus said what i think was wrong (my Opinion)

LAX Skunky BwS said:

well i see yellowing in them leafes and thats cuz of the ph is to low and lac of nitrogen... i dunno btw i didnt give any advice i jus said what i think was wrong (my Opinion)

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Cool... definitely not tryin' to rag on ya..

Yellowing from N-deficiency is usually very even across the leaf, not blotchy. I do see the resemblance to pH problems, but it's just really rare for fresh soil to have a pH problem.. but hey, it's not impossible.