JB's New Growroom with Graphics

JSB99

JSB99

Well-Known Member
I'm relocating the air pump as we speak, so you'll actually see the results of your advice taking place LOL
 
Rottedroots

Rottedroots

Well-Known Member
HaHa. it'll be cool to see how close your cost estimate is to the finished price. Have you decided on how exactly your going to build your frames? I went with aluminum and rivets but I wish I could have set it up to be more adjustable. Right now everything is 11 inches on center but it might be nice to change it up or add suplimental lighting without a rebuild. I tried like hell to use sketch up to design my frames but I had trouble assigning actual usable measurements. Will you be able to cut all your stock like PVC and aluminum based on your plans? Much better than a tyvek and sharpie drafting table.
 
JSB99

JSB99

Well-Known Member
Rottedroots said:
HaHa. it'll be cool to see how close your cost estimate is to the finished price. Have you decided on how exactly your going to build your frames? I went with aluminum and rivets but I wish I could have set it up to be more adjustable. Right now everything is 11 inches on center but it might be nice to change it up or add suplimental lighting without a rebuild. I tried like hell to use sketch up to design my frames but I had trouble assigning actual usable measurements. Will you be able to cut all your stock like PVC and aluminum based on your plans? Much better than a tyvek and sharpie drafting table.
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I'm going to use extruded aluminum and tee inserts to mount the heat sinks. I'm not too familiar with extruded aluminum, but someone here said I was looking at 80/20. It's 1/2" aluminum. I may go up to 3/4", but I'll throw that question out there a little later. I don't know how sturdy the elbows are for the cross sections. If they don't hold up that well, I'll probably take it to a welding shop and have them tack it together, or just learn how to do it myself with a torch. I'll be cutting my own rails and the 2" PVC with my chop saw. Pretty sure I've got a Diablo 180 around. If not, then I'll get a 200 tooth blade. I can take down the rough edges with my Dremel.

I'm not too concerned with it being adjustable. it's 12" centers for the model I built. I did everything to scale and I can print out blueprints with measurements on everything with Sketchup. Even though Sketchup is one of the easier CAD programs, it is still very complex. There are things you have to learn no matter what 3D app you're using. Just being able to navigate in a 3D space is really tricky when you're first learning, and you can't really be productive until you've gotten comfortable with that. I've been doing it long enough now that it's like driving a standard. After a while you're not even thinking about the clutch or shifting. What's funny though is that I'm so used to using my mouse that way that I try navigating like that on web pages, documents, and pictures. What I really need is a 3D mouse. its specially made for working in 3D space. I've been playing around with 3D apps for about 8 years, but just as a hobby. To me it's like painting on a canvas. I've done plenty of projects on paper, but I really wanted to be able to walk through my environment and see the space I'm working with.

It's really important to me that I plan this is well as I can ahead of time. There are too many things that just can't be easily adjusted after the fact. Not to mention that I don't want to be working on it every day like my old setups. It's fun and all, but I don't want to have to work on it when I don't want to .

The cost? I'm sure that'll creep up. All the little stuff adds up, but it's okay. I'm prepared for it. It's an investment and I plan on using the room indefinitely. The ROI on it for me is about 5 months.

Alright, I've babbled enough and my dog's begging for my attention. Kids! LOL
 
Roger A. Shrubber

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
i really like the 80/20, but the shit is spendy, can't find a local source of it, and online they charge you to cut every damn piece of it, then you have to pay shipping.
 
Rottedroots

Rottedroots

Well-Known Member
What's 80/20? You have a lot of time invested in the 3D modeling bud and it shows. I was initially going to have each six COB frame support the drivers but I don't think it's necessary and that's where the weight seems to be. 3/4 X 1/16th L's and flats end up making a very solid frame. Well you went with 12 inch on center and I went with 11 inches on center. Maybe i need to adjust things already....
 
JSB99

JSB99

Well-Known Member
Rottedroots said:
What's 80/20? You have a lot of time invested in the 3D modeling bud and it shows. I was initially going to have each six COB frame support the drivers but I don't think it's necessary and that's where the weight seems to be. 3/4 X 1/16th L's and flats end up making a very solid frame. Well you went with 12 inch on center and I went with 11 inches on center. Maybe i need to adjust things already....
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Not sure of the meaning of "80/20" is myself. Roger, or one of the others, might be able to explain it. I'll look into this a bit more and see what's involved.

I didn't want to mount my drivers to the frame because I didn't want the weight or the heat. I'll have a control board to the side of the tent where they'll be mounted. Even though I'll be running extra wire and a heavier gauge, I think I can still make it look clean and keep the wires out of the way.
 
Rottedroots

Rottedroots

Well-Known Member
So that's what that stuff is called. pricey but very cool. I'm not sure where I'd even find it but I'll be watching with interest to see how it comes together. Is it something that can be welded?
 
JSB99

JSB99

Well-Known Member
Roger A. Shrubber said:
aluminum is weldable, but you need special equipment, an arc welder will melt it into slag, need something like a tig or mig wire welder
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I was thinking that if welding didn't look feasible I could use long bolts to go through the sides of the outer rails and through the center circle of the cross bars. I'd need to drill holes in the sides of the outer rails to pass the bolt through. I think I'd probably use thread locker on the bolts and cut off the remainder of the bolt to clean it up.

I have not idea if thin bolts over 12" are available. I have to imagine so. I'm sure there are applications in the world of industry where bolts like that are being used. If not, I'll see what else I can come up with.
 
JSB99

JSB99

Well-Known Member
I'll only have to weld or bolt together the frame IF the adapters aren't strong enough to hold the frame together tightly. I'm really hoping that the adapters are adequate.

Can anyone give some feedback of their experience with 80/20 and the adapters?
 
JSB99

JSB99

Well-Known Member
I was just thinking that another option to using long bolts would be to tap the center holes so I could use a short bolt on each side of the outer rails that would screw right into the cross sections.
 
Rottedroots

Rottedroots

Well-Known Member
Those long pieces threaded rod are great to work with. Just beware that when you cut it you had better make a clean cut or you're just about guaranteed to have cross-threaded bolts. I think that 80-20 stuff is pretty cool especially with the threaded T's which allows for a lot of adjusting. As cool as it is its almost an overburdened to carry six COBs with no drivers on board. I'm glad I didn't think about using 80/20 before I went with simple 1/16 aluminum stock. if I had found it is would have used it as I'm a big fan of over building chit. I could have saved hundreds by purchasing unnecessary stock. I used a lot of 3/4 inch plywood instead of 1/4 inch. it's a long list of ways I could have saved but hopefully it's a one and done build. your build will be one for the ages JSB. Have fun.
 
JSB99

JSB99

Well-Known Member
Rottedroots said:
As cool as it is its almost an overburdened to carry six COBs with no drivers on board. I'm glad I didn't think about using 80/20 before I went with simple 1/16 aluminum stock. if I had found it is would have used it as I'm a big fan of over building chit.
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This is the great unknown for me because I've never worked with extruded aluminum channels before. I have no idea of it's strength or weaknesses. I was going to overcompensate by using 3/4", but even then, I'd have no idea of whether it'd work.

I could very easily use angle iron to build the frames, but I wanted to take a different approach. I thought the aluminum would not only be lighter, but it would look really cool.

When you say "1/16 aluminum stock", can you give me a link so I know exactly what you're referring to? I'm going to choose stability over asthetics, so if it looks like a more feasible option then I'd probably go that route. Especially since it has already been tested by you.

Thanks :-)
 
JSB99

JSB99

Well-Known Member
Are these the stock aluminum bars you were talking about?

Aluminum Bars, Flats, and Tubes


I was thinking I could use 3/4" solid angle aluminum


LINK

and flat aluminum for the cross sections:


LINK


If I'm on the right track, what sizes do you think would be adequate to build the frame I designed? Should I use steel or aluminum?

Thanks
 
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JSB99

JSB99

Well-Known Member
I'm looking on the 80/20 site and what I'm seeing, as far as the rails and fasteners, looks very strong and durable.

I'm not sure what would constitute "high cost" for this material, but for an example I picked a 1" extruded channel, and set the length needed as 96". The price came to $52.83. If I had to use a lot of material to make my frames I would think about using a less expensive material. But I don't think it's going to be all that expensive for the little amount of material I need. Plus, I'll be cutting all my bars, so if there was a cost per cut, I'm getting away from that.

LINK


There are also options to have mounting holes drilled at the ends for corner brackets.


Check out these corner brackets. With parts like these I'm sure I can make a durable frame out of 80/20.
LINK

This site allows you to send them your plans and they'll analyze it to see what materials I would need to build a sturdy frame. Wonder if they'd powder coat it green for me so I don't have to paint it myself? I saw black and yellow parts, so maybe.
 
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