ShawnSunshine
Well-Known Member
So far, seems to be helping but I still have adult gnats flying around, mosquito bits are for the larvae.
Lavender, Gnats and Neem Oil?
- Thread starter ShawnSunshine
- Start date
HydoDan
Well-Known Member
Sticky traps help control the population and are a good indicator of how the battle is going.
Amazon.com : Ecological Labs AEL20036 Microbe Lift Mosquito Control Aquarium Treatment, 2-Ounce : Home Pest Repellents : Pet Supplies. Better than the bits, maybe cheaper on Ebay.
Amazon.com : Ecological Labs AEL20036 Microbe Lift Mosquito Control Aquarium Treatment, 2-Ounce : Home Pest Repellents : Pet Supplies. Better than the bits, maybe cheaper on Ebay.
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ShawnSunshine
Well-Known Member
Ok , so I got more bio weapons in the war against non beneficial insects and fungus.
Defcon 1
Defcon 2
AND
Defcon 3
Defcon 4 is the Essential Oils like Rosemary, Lavender and Peppermint.
Defcon 5 is Mosquito Bits
HUZZAH!!
ShawnSunshine
Well-Known Member
Driver733Ok , so I got more bio weapons in the war against non beneficial insects and fungus.
Defcon 1
Defcon 2
AND
Defcon 3
Defcon 4 is the Essential Oils like Rosemary, Lavender and Peppermint.
Defcon 5 is Mosquito Bits
HUZZAH!!
PadawanWarrior
Well-Known Member
Alien Technology.Ok , so I got more bio weapons in the war against non beneficial insects and fungus.
Defcon 1
Defcon 2
AND
Defcon 3
Defcon 4 is the Essential Oils like Rosemary, Lavender and Peppermint.
Defcon 5 is Mosquito Bits
HUZZAH!!
Popop
Well-Known Member
I had dusty buds last year, it sucked
Hollatchaboy
Well-Known Member
Don't spray in flower.
Hollatchaboy
Well-Known Member
Put a solo cup with a bit of apple cider vinegar and a couple drops of dish soap by your plants. It'll attract the flyers.
ShawnSunshine
Well-Known Member
I won't, I sent the Neem Oil back, didn't like the smell.
Now just going to use insecticidal soap and essential oils for certain bugs.
ShawnSunshine
Well-Known Member
Been trying that and they completely ignored it.
Int getting sticky butterfly traps tomorrow
ShawnSunshine
Well-Known Member
Here come the "Gaurdians of the Garden"!
Babalonian
Well-Known Member
Perfectamundo, thank you so much for sharing that. I been laying out my FF in the sun for a couple days. I’ll let it warm up a couple hours and take some temperature readings. Scratch my chin and think if I want to throw it in the oven this afternoon.This is from Penn State University Extension Service:
How to Pasteurize Medium and Sterilize Containers and Tools
To increase the survival rate for seedlings during germination, containers and tools should be sterilized and pasteurized or sterile soilless mixes should be used as growing medium.extension.psu.edu
How to Pasteurize Medium and Sterilize Containers and Tools
To increase the survival rate for seedlings during germination, containers and tools should be sterilized and pasteurized or sterile soilless mixes should be used as growing medium.
Seeds need adequate moisture and optimum temperatures for germination, but these conditions also encourage the spread of disease. To increase the survival rate for seedlings during germination, containers and tools should be sterilized and pasteurized or sterile soilless mixes should be used as growing medium.
Damping-off
One potential problem for gardeners who germinate seeds at home is damping-off, a fungus disease that infects seedlings. It is caused by pathogens such as Pythium, Rhizoctonia and Fusarium and its symptoms include the browning of stems at the soil line. Stems then shrivel, plants topple over, and seedlings die. Infection spreads rapidly, killing most of the seedlings in a tray or flat. Although it is more of a problem on over-watered seedlings in poorly drained soils, even seedlings in medium that drains well can become infected. Thus, it is important to start clean by disinfecting all tools and flats, as well as pasteurizing potting medium or using sterile soilless media to reduce the possibility of damping-off. For more information, refer to the fact sheet entitled: Damping-off of Seeds, Seedlings, and Cuttings .
Pasteurizing Medium
Potting media mixed by home gardeners should be pasteurized to kill weed seeds, soil-borne insects, and pathogens. Pasteurization destroys most organisms and is done by applying heat until the soil reaches 180oF (82oC) for 30 minutes. When temperatures are raised above 212oF (100oC), most of the soil borne organisms are killed and the soil is considered sterile. Gardeners can pasteurize homemade potting soils using a kitchen oven; however, a long-lasting earthy odor can develop in the oven. To pasteurize soil, preheat the oven to 180oF. Then fill a pan with about 4 inches of moist soil and cover it with aluminum foil. Insert a candy or meat thermometer to monitor temperature and place the pan in the oven. When the thermometer reads 180oF, leave the pan in the oven for 30 minutes longer, then remove it and allow the soil to cool. Seeds can then be sown in the soil, or it can be used as a transplant medium for seedlings.
Sterilize Containers and Tools
Efforts to pasteurize soil are in vain if contaminated tools, seed flats, or pots are used. Each should be disinfected by soaking it for 30 minutes in a 10% solution of chlorine bleach (one part bleach and nine parts water). Tools and containers should then be rinsed and allowed to dry before using them again.
Pre-sterilized Potting Soil or Soilless Mix and Containers
Instead of pasteurizing soil in the kitchen, most gardeners have chosen to purchase either presterilized, ready-mixed potting soil or sterile soilless mix. In addition, new plastic or fiber disposable trays and sterilizing previously used containers.
Prepared by Phyllis Lamont, consumer horticulture center library coordinator, Kathleen M. Kelley, assistant professor of consumer horticulture and James C. Sellmer, associate professor of ornamental horticulture
My two cents: If you google search you will find plenty of commercial gardening operations that all pasteurize the soil. That's why I started doing it. I looked for potting soil that was already pasteurized, I couldn't find any on the market.
They don't seem to be worried about killing any beneficial microbes. Neither am I.
Incidentally, I am having the best results I've ever had, after pasteurizing the soil. But that's totally anecdotal.
It’s drying out nicely to a good consistency now, it must of gotten wet at some point because layed out thin in the sun on a tarp for almost two days has removed a lot of moisture but not gotten the FF close to what I consider dry. And this sun drying was after the FF was sitting in a dry place in the bag for a few months.
Really appreciate the input you and others have given.
CunningCanuk
Well-Known Member
I just harvested my first run with air pots. I had a battle with fungus gnats (they were in the soil originally) and just couldn’t get rid of them. Obviously they were laying eggs in the holes. The plants looked healthy enough throughout the grow but I could tell the gnats we’re going to have an impact on yield.
I was blown away to see what the roots, or lack there of, looked like. It was like I just transplanted them a few days ago.
I did a search to see if anyone else went through this and found your post. Fungus gnats and air pots are not a happy combo.
OP, if you're still having issues, Steinernema feltiae (beneficial nematode) worked for me. They eat fungus gnat larvae. Thrip larvae as well.
I mixed a fresh batch of soil using Bu's-blend compost. Worst f*cking fungus gnat infestation I've ever experienced in 5 years of indoor gardening. I am not prepared to bash the product, however.
Anywho, standard practice of using BT didn't work for me. I'm under the impression that those bacterium don't proliferate well in microbially rich soil mixes. I had to apply it over and over, and still was unable to get the gnats under control.
The nematodes got rid of them in less than a week. Available through Amazon, but ordered direct from here...
www.naturesgoodguys.com
If you're growing in pots with holes in the bottom, make sure to water to drain. You want the soil around those bottom holes soaking wet. Don't let the top soil or the drain holes dry out too much, at least until the gnats are under control. Nematodes need ample water in the soil in order to move around.
Good luck!
I mixed a fresh batch of soil using Bu's-blend compost. Worst f*cking fungus gnat infestation I've ever experienced in 5 years of indoor gardening. I am not prepared to bash the product, however.
Anywho, standard practice of using BT didn't work for me. I'm under the impression that those bacterium don't proliferate well in microbially rich soil mixes. I had to apply it over and over, and still was unable to get the gnats under control.
The nematodes got rid of them in less than a week. Available through Amazon, but ordered direct from here...
Beneficial Nematodes SF – Preys On: Fungus Gnats, Beetles, Thrips & Mo
Nematodes actively hunt for insect larvae, entering through natural body openings. Once inside the larvae, the nematode excretes bacteria from its digestive tract before it starts to feed and multiply. Within a few days the pest will change color and die. The nematodes multiply and develop...
www.naturesgoodguys.com
If you're growing in pots with holes in the bottom, make sure to water to drain. You want the soil around those bottom holes soaking wet. Don't let the top soil or the drain holes dry out too much, at least until the gnats are under control. Nematodes need ample water in the soil in order to move around.
Good luck!
Babalonian
Well-Known Member
FF Ocean Forest by chance?
CunningCanuk
Well-Known Member
Close. Happy Frog.