SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
Very interesting lamp. Where are these for sale? The website has the old version with XTEs. The Amazon site is sold out of the XM-L2.
LED Companies w/ LINKS
- Thread starter Beefbisquit
- Start date
puffenuff
Well-Known Member
PSUAGRO.
Well-Known Member
Yeah 4000 k is more accurate as neutral "white"...........can buy it without the reflector/glass covering for $390 with cree built module(cobs)/heatsink/230 watts.. with the 10 yr warranty....not bad
http://www.alconlighting.com/cree-cxb-23l-40k-u-1-hc.html very interesting for us IMO..........just need to find out the lens angle/ spectra for these cobs ........ man this look beastly
PetFlora
Well-Known Member
hyroot
Well-Known Member
thats still up for debate. more red will have lower cri and be more efficient. bigger buds too. Higher cri may produce better results.. I would like to experiment low cri vs high cri. I don't have the loot at the moment to fund that project. That will have to wait. from the induction / led. I'm diggin the high cri. With that maybe having high cri whites and then supplement with 660 would be best. I don't know, just ideas for now.
digimidgi
Well-Known Member
If you are interested in them, i can refer you and you'll get $50 off.
Now i have the panel i realize i need more height to use it or re-shuffle the panels around.
I wanted to test it by itself but am thinking about mixing it in with the Plant Photonics.. I'm restricted where i live so can't have ANOTHER wardrobe or cupboard!!
This may be a silly question but would it be bad for a panel to be on a timer, like 30 minutes on, 15 off. I assume it would damage the LED's over time. Answered my own question.
I'm not very knowledgeable when it comes to electronics:-/
PSUAGRO.
Well-Known Member
From your pics(# 12^^) I can see their is a forward voltage adjustment screw on the driver........lower the wattage/reduce "intensity" so you can use it in your limited height cab. Buy a cheap killo-watt meter to safely bring it back to normal wattage(220w) when necessary. You will also improve efficiency/longevity by lowering the wattage.If you are interested in them, i can refer you and you'll get $50 off.
Now i have the panel i realize i need more height to use it or re-shuffle the panels around.
I wanted to test it by itself but am thinking about mixing it in with the Plant Photonics.. I'm restricted where i live so can't have ANOTHER wardrobe or cupboard!!
This may be a silly question but would it be bad for a panel to be on a timer, like 30 minutes on, 15 off. I assume it would damage the LED's over time. Answered my own question.
I'm not very knowledgeable when it comes to electronics:-/
Also you can remove the secondary acrylic lenses to reduce the focusing/intensity if you want ==== highly recommended either way
digimidgi
Well-Known Member
I emailed RapidLED and asked ....From your pics(# 12^^) I can see their is a forward voltage adjustment screw on the driver........lower the wattage/reduce "intensity" so you can use it in your limited height cab. Buy a cheap killo-watt meter to safely bring it back to normal wattage(220w) when necessary. You will also improve efficiency/longevity by lowering the wattage.
Also you can remove the secondary acrylic lenses to reduce the focusing/intensity if you want ==== highly recommended either way
> Hi Mike,
>
> Thanks i'll keep that in mind and let my friend know.
>
> I noticed on the Meanwell driver there is a forward voltage.
> Does that mean i could decrease the light intensity/wattage?
>
> Thanks"
He replied ... "Unfortunately on this unit it's non-dimmable. Typically we recommend not touching the voltage screw on the front, it only adjusts the output voltage on the power supply but the unit doesn't have a dimmable driver inside so changing the voltage won't dim the lights.
Regards,
Mike"
Can i ask what are the benefits of the secondary acrylic lenses? and what are the benefits of not having the secondary acrylic lenses?
Sorry for being dumb
Cococola36
Well-Known Member
Hey digi whats the foot print of the light? like a 2x3ft?
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
^ doubtfully, great light, but the overall measurements are 6" by 13". It would be tough to do a 2x2 with that light I think. I have looked at it for the last 6 months or so [Yes, they have been around that long!]
You can buy the case, fan, heatsink and power cord for $100 and build a DIY too!
http://www.rapidled.com/onyx-housing-for-diy-projects/
$279 for the Non-Dimmable Version as well!
Cococola36
Well-Known Member
Yea thats true i did look at the size of it, but i did have a procyon 300 a while back and that lil bastard covered a decent amount of space. But with that said it had a shit ton of led stacked together lol
digimidgi
Well-Known Member
guy from Rapid said 3x3
Northern Reflections
New Member
So, I'm just starting out and looking to go with a LED light. My question is what wattage should I be looking at for a grow tent that's in the 24x24 or 36x36 range? Thanks.
vladimiroslav
Well-Known Member
For a 2ftx2ft you should be able to go with a single Hans panel from Bonsaihero.com, 65 or 80 watts.
For a 3x3 you'd better look at Area 51 (SGS 160 or XGS 190), or Plant Photonics, or even a couple of other brands wich are cheaper like Vipar, Blackstar, ... depending on your location, budget, height, ...
Northern Reflections
New Member
height is at about 60" for both. In Canada.
PSUAGRO.
Well-Known Member
Primary lens angle is VERY relevant here(don't know what xml-2 uses )......so this is just a general ruleI emailed RapidLED and asked ....
> Hi Mike,
>
> Thanks i'll keep that in mind and let my friend know.
>
> I noticed on the Meanwell driver there is a forward voltage.
> Does that mean i could decrease the light intensity/wattage?
>
> Thanks"
He replied ... "Unfortunately on this unit it's non-dimmable. Typically we recommend not touching the voltage screw on the front, it only adjusts the output voltage on the power supply but the unit doesn't have a dimmable driver inside so changing the voltage won't dim the lights.
Regards,
Mike"
Can i ask what are the benefits of the secondary acrylic lenses? and what are the benefits of not having the secondary acrylic lenses?
Sorry for being dumb
Benefits: More par/umol #'s at the same distance than without the lens(80 vs ???),focused pattern/ less light loss to the walls, keep the warranty, protecting the diodes from the elements.
Cons: 10-15% decrease in light output with glass, maybe more with low quality pmma(acrylic) and gets worse as plastic degrades from the heat/uv, decreased coverage, harder to clean the primary optics(dust gets trapped inside) and more light losses added.
If your warranty is lost due to this modding(ask rapid led first), it's your call friend............and your $$$ INVESTED. Also a 3x3 coverage in flower is misleading as its a rectangular panel. You should get some great results with all ww fixture and plant photonics panels mixed cab
maybe on of the awesome DIY'er here can help you wire in a dimmer into that particular driver model.....it has the screw already installed.....idk
good luck and be safe
Bad Karma
Well-Known Member
That was my biggest concern when I saw this light the first time it was mentioned awhile back.
It seems like they did their research when it comes to the Cree diodes, the heat distribution, and whatnot.
But why they would slap acrylic/plastic lens on top of all of that good stuff is really baffling.
It's like building a big, delicious, ice cream sundae, and putting a sardine on top.
PetFlora
Well-Known Member
Yeah, the led gods giveth and then they taketh away
Even Jeff bought into lenses (at least back in Novemberish). The 2 90w ufos (not going into production) he sent me are lens-less and he suggested I put lenses on to better focus the light
15% efficiency loss is huge, then overtime light/panels degrade due to yellowing/fogging
That's a big part of what drew me to the cob/reflector lights- sans lens
Even Jeff bought into lenses (at least back in Novemberish). The 2 90w ufos (not going into production) he sent me are lens-less and he suggested I put lenses on to better focus the light
15% efficiency loss is huge, then overtime light/panels degrade due to yellowing/fogging
That's a big part of what drew me to the cob/reflector lights- sans lens