LED grow from start to finish

SMT69

SMT69

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
Yeah, the whole cabinet has a 20mm styroform layer and the exaust fan has his own soundproofed chamber.
~38db at 1m distance when closed with exaust fan on max. measured with 2 different smartphones. Its a 6" exaust dimmed to max. 50% to reduce sound emissions and has a build in temp sensor/controller. If the temps stay below the set value -in my case 30°C- the speed is reduced further down to the set minimum value.

Don't know if I understand it in the right way but with a big rez it's all doable. I'll use such a Wilma System you see below but with an external 60liter rez and the build in reservoir is used to collect the drain. With up to 10 plants this should last for 1-2 weeks depending on the current state of the grow. With a 3-4 week rez I would probably need something like a PH controller to avoid the solution from drifting too much. But its all doable.
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I luv it, thats right up my alley.I'd be happy even with a one week rez....now to see if they have these in the states, everything ive seen has been gigantic....Im guessing it would work better with a slow drip in coco, rather then hydroton pebbles...Is anyone running one here
 
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Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
The complete name is... "Nutriculture Atami Wilma System" and it should be available in the US. At least something similar. Octogrow for instance..
This one fits perfectly in a 4x 2' tent but you get them in many different styles. With 6,5 or 11liter pots, siutable from 2x 2' to 4x 4' areas, even with flood and drain technique or as aeroponic system. Extremely flexible..
I'm using clay pebbles only as drain layer below the soil/coco and on top an layer to avoid the soil from drying out too fast. They also help to avoid fungus gnats and other soil living insects when powdered with diatomaceous earth.
I'll start with coco DTW and when I have more hydro experience I will maybe try a completely soilless system.
You can get the needed sprayers and the likes all separately.
 
Belko

Belko

Well-Known Member
Curing is really a complicated part^^
I am always looking to improve my curing method, I take all advice^^
I ll try fridge method on a small part next time, currently I use BOVEDA 62% in glass jars, I think to buy small wine cellars, it should work for conservation and curing.;)
 
INF Flux

INF Flux

Well-Known Member
Belko said:
Curing is really a complicated part^^
I am always looking to improve my curing method, I take all advice^^
I ll try fridge method on a small part next time, currently I use BOVEDA 62% in glass jars, I think to buy small wine cellars, it should work for conservation and curing.;)
Click to expand...
The large jar with a hygrometer method in a sticky here has really been a game changer for me. No more dried out crumble hay for me. Well worth looking up and having a read.
 
calitrees916

calitrees916

Well-Known Member
As promised here are some pictures of my side/tester plants

Pictures below the plants that are elevated on 5 gal Home Depot buckets are 4 of my side/tester plants. Now going from left to right in order of the picture I have;
1) Dosido “NorCal cut”
2) Hot Rod “from consensio genetics”
3) Dosido “Dark Heart Nursey”
4) Gelato “Dark Heart Nursey”
59105ABC-DF2E-4C7F-BAE4-FC1898010887.jpeg A2EE3690-04B9-472B-A07E-0CE900E4E4A2.jpeg 0F1DB021-1575-4410-8EF2-9714B37D8267.jpeg BEE9A838-94AC-49AA-8097-A4CBA9268017.jpeg

Pictures below from left to right is the last 2 out of my 6 side/test plants

5) Pie Face “ I forget and will look up” lol
6) Thin Mint Cookies “Puprle City Genetics”

E444AA0A-B798-4698-A239-7E926BC71195.jpeg 9DAEF3DB-B310-4C1A-8AD4-E7BCB6B17735.jpeg
 
swedsteven

swedsteven

Well-Known Member
Sorry to ask but how did u leg shave the plant in the corner of the room u must be skinny .Even the last one on the wall 6 feet away omg good job!
 
calitrees916

calitrees916

Well-Known Member
swedsteven said:
Sorry to ask but how did u leg shave the plant in the corner of the room u must be skinny .Even the last one on the wall 6 feet away omg good job!
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It’s tough brudda!! A little army crawl and sitting on the floor will get it done tho. I’m 5’10” 170lbs. So I made sure that my canopy sits high enough for me to work under when needed. Always plan ahead for work that will need to be done in the garden. Cheers!
 
led1k

led1k

Well-Known Member
calitrees916 said:
VPD is on point I must say

These picture are of the night before I set my timer to my flower lighting schedule of 12on/12off

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I just noticed (really?!) the cuts in the sides of your buckets! Great idea! Squirreled away for future use.
 
led1k

led1k

Well-Known Member
calitrees916 said:
They could be, idk if the air passes through that well through the fabric. I like my small homedepot bucks, nice and sturdy and will last forever.
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Point taken. I wonder since the fabric surrounds the roots they all have access to whatever air will pass vs bucket roots having to find slots. Maybe doesn't matter with Coco since it's very well ventilated?
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Belko said:
Curing is really a complicated part^^
I am always looking to improve my curing method, I take all advice^^
I ll try fridge method on a small part next time, currently I use BOVEDA 62% in glass jars, I think to buy small wine cellars, it should work for conservation and curing.;)
Click to expand...
The best curing method for me -without freezer- is still the good ol' paperbag method, bro! I call it the dutch method..
Hang them at first on a leash for a week or so. When the sugar leaves start to feel crispy manicure them and put them in the paperbag. Fill the bags not more as to 20%. Close the bag with a clothespin and then hang it in a dark room at 20-25°C/60% RH to slowly let them dry. This will take at least another 3 or 4 weeks to reach the optimal residual moisture (15-18% IMO). The paper acts like a membrane and ensures that the drying process stops as soon as the same humidity prevails on both inside and outside the bag. After that I put them in jars.
This way the microbes have enough time to convert most of the chlorophyll into sugars and you can safe most of the aroma/taste compared to freezer curing.
When the final RH inside the jars is between 50 and 60% a few days later you did everything right.

Play a bit with the ambient temps. The slower they dry the better they taste. I always take a little paperbag for the best and most trichome loaded parts, hide the bag in the boiler room (18-20°C/55%) and forget it for 2-3 months or more. Once I found a bag that had fallen behind the shelf and was laid there for at least a 1 year ...
Incomparable yummy, bro!
 

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Belko

Belko

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
The best curing method for me -without freezer- is still the good ol' paperbag method, bro! I call it the dutch method..
Hang them at first on a leash for a week or so. When the sugar leaves start to feel crispy manicure them and put them in the paperbag. Fill the bags not more as to 20%. Close the bag with a clothespin and then hang it in a dark room at 20-25°C/60% RH to slowly let them dry. This will take at least another 3 or 4 weeks to reach the optimal residual moisture (15-18% IMO). The paper acts like a membrane and ensures that the drying process stops as soon as the same humidity prevails on both inside and outside the bag. After that I put them in jars.
This way the microbes have enough time to convert most of the chlorophyll into sugars and you can safe most of the aroma/taste compared to freezer curing.
When the final RH inside the jars is between 50 and 60% a few days later you did everything right.

Play a bit with the ambient temps. The slower they dry the better they taste. I always take a little paperbag for the best and most trichome loaded parts, hide the bag in the boiler room (18-20°C/55%) and forget it for 2-3 months or more. Once I found a bag that had fallen behind the shelf and was laid there for at least a 1 year ...
Incomparable yummy, bro!
Click to expand...
Hey, thx bro

I heard about this technique but the guys did not know when to put the buds in the bag how much bud per bag, if the bags were to be opened or closed ...
I have a lot of humility in autumn / winter ( Netherlands are wet too ^ ^) The drying is endless, I placed a small part in kraft paper bags last winter, I played with the bags (open / closed) the results were still good.
I will use your advice as a guideline for my next curing. I will use Boveda 58/62% only for conservation once in jar.
 
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