LED lights not doing so good.

Post pictures. Got pics of your roots? Sounds like root issues. are your tables fully draining? Roots aren't sitting in stagnant water? Put a single hps back in there over a part of one table and see if it flourishes. I doubt it, it sounds like a root/hydro issue. You running sterile hydro with bleach or shock?
 
SDK420 said:
usually flora micro/calmag.cns17gro in veg

bloom cns17bloom/calmag/potassium silicate/potassium hydroxide as ph up.

ro water with heavy airstones. It seemed like the roots might have been a bit weak. At first it seems like year the stretch is going great then all of a sudden with nice structure they start yellowing and the trics are like dust and hardly exist.im not ruling out root rot but the same set of clones at the same time under the hid seem fine. looking at the root under zoom reveal no insects
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p0opstlnksal0t said:
Post pictures. Got pics of your roots? Sounds like root issues. are your tables fully draining? Roots aren't sitting in stagnant water? Put a single hps back in there over a part of one table and see if it flourishes. I doubt it, it sounds like a root/hydro issue. You running sterile hydro with bleach or shock?
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shock to clean the hydroton. Next round will clean the hydroton with peroxide and the new clone roots are 100% perfect pearly white. i will try to get pictures soon probably gona just toss the table. for maintaining pathogens when growing a 8th of a cup of peroxide 3% a day
 

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The rez air stone is receiving about 400ppm c02 air from outside. How about c02 pooling up in the root zone? i don't thinks is disease because the same clones in coco under HPS don't show these symptoms. but a LOT of these plants ended up dying off in the second week of flower. some were yellow earlier than others and continued to grow very slowly and yellow. trichs are non existent. What temp can the water be in the rez under these leds. i was afraid to go down to 72 thinking it might bee too cold for them under LEDS. I'm not ready to give up on the LEDS but something has to give. I'm use to see trichs at about the same time as pre-flower. I'm sure some of those roots broke off when it was pulled from the container but theyre toast anyways and not something i'm interested in keeping at this point.
 
SDK420 said:
shock to clean the hydroton. Next round will clean the hydroton with peroxide and the new clone roots are 100% perfect pearly white. i will try to get pictures soon probably gona just toss the table. for maintaining pathogens when growing a 8th of a cup of peroxide 3% a day
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In a flood and drain running chlorine all the time is a must.

Those brown roots are your problem. You have an issue with your hydroponics not the lights.

Show me your flood and drain tables. Is there any way for stagnant water to collect in the bottom anywhere? Is it possible you are watering too often too soon before roots have time to stretch in those tables? When you reuse hydroton the possibility of old roots and crap staying in the medium grow to grow is very high. You gotta keep your res sterile I like shock or bleach better than h202. But there are brown slime bacteria and other cyanos that are immune to bleach and h202
 

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p0opstlnksal0t said:
In a flood and drain running chlorine all the time is a must.

Those brown roots are your problem. You have an issue with your hydroponics not the lights.

Show me your flood and drain tables. Is there any way for stagnant water to collect in the bottom anywhere? Is it possible you are watering too often too soon before roots have time to stretch in those tables? When you reuse hydroton the possibility of old roots and crap staying in the medium grow to grow is very high. You gotta keep your res sterile I like shock or bleach better than h202. But there are brown slime bacteria and other cyanos that are immune to bleach and h202
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i use to have an ORP meter but now that i don't im a little afraid to add any chlorine. how mush do you think i should add to 125gal and how often? you don't think the peroxide is strong enough?

i have both shock and liquid bleach
 
I'm certainly no expert on flood and drain systems my friend. I know with certainty that those brown roots are your problem however. I typically do 1ml of bleach per 3 gals. Using only non scented regular household bleach (not the "no drip" kind). In 125g res that's 41ml. It evaporates off in a day or two so I'd get a chlorine meter and keep dibs on it. I would also either look start searching "brown roots flood drain" here on riu or create a new hydro thread since your real issue is your hydro setup. I think once you get white roots you're gonna be rolling with joy from those lights
 
I'm interested to know any other growers using LED's and a water chillers how low they get their water temps without adverse effects. It def seems like a root problem because the plants seemed locked out. if 70-72f temps are okay for the res then even better right now 76-78

The table floods day and night every hour and a half
 
SDK420 said:
I'm interested to know any other growers using LED's and a water chillers how low they get their water temps without adverse effects. It def seems like a root problem because the plants seemed locked out. if 70-72f temps are okay for the res then even better right now 76-78

The table floods day and night every hour and a half
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Remember the temp of your water is directly related to it's DO saturation. I don't do flood and drain, only RDWC, and I'm running without air pumps/stones - I simply rely on the waterfall effect and the water temp. - which I keep at about 68-70, then in the last few weeks of flower I gradually start dropping that temp until it hits about 62 with 24-48 hours to go, which shocks the plants.

Anyways, at least as far as RDWC goes, 76-78 water temps would be a nightmare - I'm not sure if the requirements are the same for your setup though.

PS, like you I'm also running HLG lights - I have the 550V2 in a 4x4 and it easily rivals my old 1000w HID. Just keep in mind with LEDs that they don't throw out useless parts of the light sprectrum, as HIDs do. With an HID, this extra white light gets absorbed by the leaf and increases the leaf surface temperature. With an LED, you don't have that, so it is necessary to run your ambient air conditions higher for optimal leaf surface temp. (somewhere around 86F for LEDs, and 77F for Hid). This, of course, is if you are trying to optimize everything.
 
SDK420 said:
so 70-72 water temps are okay for LED grows then?
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Unless running a sterile system, that is getting a bit warm and can promote pythium.
Leds need to run a hotter room to get proper leaf surface temps compared to HID.
I try to follow VPD recommendations for RH to keep the plants happy.
You will need to change the environmental conditions when switching from HID to leds.
 
wow that's low. iv'e never run temps that low before in the res. I also have never had problems like this. not until the leds. I'm taking half of them down until i figure it out. Don't forget that the hydroton leaves a brown residue and the flora micro is a very dark purple. But yea 10 years no problems. now nothing grows. not to give up yet tho
 
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SDK420 said:
wow that's low. iv'e never run temps that low before in the res. I also have never had problems like this. not until the leds. I'm taking half of them down until i figure it out. Don't forget that the hydroton leaves a brown residue and the flora micro is a very dark purple. But yea 10 years no problems. now nothing grows. not to give up yet tho
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LEDs are simple man, you just have to have environmental control. Run vpd. My canopy temp hits 90 and that's pushing it, but they dont stress. Room temp 78-84. I honestly think that upping your room temp made your res temp go up enough to cause issues. I would either look into a chiller, move my res to a cooler room, or insulate my res.
 
SDK420 said:
The rez air stone is receiving about 400ppm c02 air from outside. How about c02 pooling up in the root zone? i don't thinks is disease because the same clones in coco under HPS don't show these symptoms. but a LOT of these plants ended up dying off in the second week of flower. some were yellow earlier than others and continued to grow very slowly and yellow. trichs are non existent. What temp can the water be in the rez under these leds. i was afraid to go down to 72 thinking it might bee too cold for them under LEDS. I'm not ready to give up on the LEDS but something has to give. I'm use to see trichs at about the same time as pre-flower. I'm sure some of those roots broke off when it was pulled from the container but theyre toast anyways and not something i'm interested in keeping at this point.
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Co2 in the root zone is a no no also. It will kill them off
 
Actually i have a few chillers. You make a good point about the temp changes in the room. Maybe it was just the tipping point for rot to set in. i set the chiller up a week after the temps were raised. I aso use them in my cloners @69f the roots look great. i use the chiller to cool down a cooler full of water and pump that chilled water thru a stainless coil inside the res. i use wavemakers? and large airstones on a 200w airpump that draws air in thru a filter from outside
 
Another thing is i'm not going to be able to get the lights more than 20 inches away from the tops in full flower after stretch.
 
SDK420 said:
Another thing is i'm not going to be able to get the lights more than 20 inches away from the tops in full flower after stretch.
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That's the beauty of leds, they get MORE EFFICIENT as they get dimmed unlike hid! Just download a simple lux meter on your phone and dim them to all the same intensity.
 
well the new clones roots look great i went through all of them and i couldn't see anything wrong with them at all. water temps at 67-68f hydroton disinfected with shock, res chlorine ppm @ 4-5ppm or "2 grams of shock for 75 gallons" & time will tell. i'm really hoping it was a root problem. might even cut back on floods
 
Approximately what percent brightness am i going to be able to run these HLG600 and how far from the lights. is 50 percent at 3ft too bright?
 
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