Led Users Unite!

P

poels

New Member
Serva said:
70x70cm = max 150W

Go with the pollin drivers, they are great (got 6 and the are all over 110W at full power) and the cheapest avaible, but make sure to dim them down, Register for newsletter an get 5€ discount (= your shipping costs).

EB strips are great, but take care, you have to pay the tax in your country (+20% for me) when they hand you the package at the door. Atm the cheapest usable Strips.

No need for heatsinks, just a simple alu frame would be enough, but if you get it for free, use it. The light will perform better.

If you like getting many strips, think about some side/corner lighting.
Click to expand...
Appreciate the answer mate! Definetly makes me feel more comfortable with it.


Ah man, i was under the impression that since its a .de site they were shipped from inside the EU. Damn! I'll have to account for that i suppose, but at least that newsletter tip just gave me 1 free strip at least :D Do you have experience with how long it takes to ship? Is it the specified 8 weeks? If there's some time in between i don't care that much about the extra 20 or so bucks on my order as i will be able to spread it out :)
 
Serva

Serva

Well-Known Member
poels said:
Appreciate the answer mate! Definetly makes me feel more comfortable with it.


Ah man, i was under the impression that since its a .de site they were shipped from inside the EU. Damn! I'll have to account for that i suppose, but at least that newsletter tip just gave me 1 free strip at least :D Do you have experience with how long it takes to ship? Is it the specified 8 weeks? If there's some time in between i don't care that much about the extra 20 or so bucks on my order as i will be able to spread it out :)
Click to expand...
Digikey is out of stock. You have to get 400 strips, than it‘s 8 weeks shipping time. Now you have to wait for digikey to stock them again, check out arrow (more expensive), or ask @diyled if he will have them in stock soon, or something similiar.
 
P

poels

New Member
Serva said:
Digikey is out of stock. You have to get 400 strips, than it‘s 8 weeks shipping time. Now you have to wait for digikey to stock them again, check out arrow (more expensive), or ask @diyled if he will have them in stock soon, or something similiar.
Click to expand...
I did notice that on some strips, however the 3500k ones i looked at, can be ordered individually :) I'll shoot you a link, but I'm not sure i can on here yet. I think they were in stock yesterday sadly. Can't order now anyways, but it seems they could already be coming in again the 14th this month so I'm not too worried.
 
Serva

Serva

Well-Known Member
poels said:
I did notice that on some strips, however the 3500k ones i looked at, can be ordered individually :) I'll shoot you a link, but I'm not sure i can on here yet. I think they were in stock yesterday sadly. Can't order now anyways, but it seems they could already be coming in again the 14th this month so I'm not too worried.
Click to expand...
Yeah, 2 were left, when I checked. But you said something about 28 strips :D
 
elkamino

elkamino

Well-Known Member
I have some LEDs that I’ve used my last two runs. The plants seem to like them and so do I. Thing is I know nothing about them and was hoping for some help. I got them from a startup warehouse grower here in Anchorage when he realized they aren’t UL listed. So I swapped him some herb for these lights

They’re called DBCooper, an LED company that’s disappeared. Each light draws 205w at the wall (2 100W white panels per light plus another 60W for the red light). Each panel has 3 ballasts, 2 for the white diodes and one for the red. The red is switchable for use in flower.

There’s 259 white diodes per panel (or x2 per light) and Online stats say they’re 6200K. There’s 288 reds that are supposedly 660Nm.

Questions are
Is this safe or what should I look for that may be unsafe?
Is this thing efficient? I’m not current on LEDs but it seems the trend is toward fewer, more powerful LEDs?
Is this spectrum lacking or should I add supplemental light?

Thanks y’all :joint:
 
Serva

Serva

Well-Known Member
elkamino said:
Is this thing efficient? I’m not current on LEDs but it seems the trend is toward fewer, more powerful LEDs?
Click to expand...
The opposite is going on ;) LED strips and boards wih alot mid-power diods.

Can‘t say anything about the panel, as all necessary informations are missing. Also can‘t find them online, which makes it look unprofessional and outdated. Modern LED strips can go up to +200lm/w. Can‘t see this one go over 130lm/w.

I don‘t want discuss the spectrum, but you could add UVB lightning.
 
Last edited:
uncanny

uncanny

Active Member
My build was working just fine at first.
Then I changed the power cable for longer one and mounted COB heatsinks to the frame.
Now it just stays dark and quiet.

How to problem solve and test the circuit/parts for faults?
I have multimeter with A/V/Ω.

How to test the driver when "hot" for an example.
I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask anything like this.

1xDriver Meanwell HLG-320H-C1-1400B
1xDimmer 100K Ohm
6xCOB Citizen CLU048-1212 80cri Gen6 (In series)



 
Last edited:
Greengenes707

Greengenes707

Well-Known Member
uncanny said:
My build was working just fine at first.
Then I changed the power cable for longer one and mounted COB heatsinks to the frame.
Now it just stays dark and quiet.

How to problem solve and test the circuit/parts for faults?
I have multimeter with A/V/Ω.

How to test the driver when "hot" for an example.
I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask anything like this.

1xDriver Meanwell HLG-320H-C1-1400B
1xDimmer 100K Ohm
6xCOB Citizen CLU048-1212 80cri Gen6 (In series)



Click to expand...
According to your drawing, you have the positive and negative DC from the driver wrong. Positive driver lead to positive of COB terminal...and negative driver lead to to negative COB terminal.

Only COB to COB should alternate polarity connections. Just switch the driver leads polarity and should be working again.
 
DarthPlagueis

DarthPlagueis

Well-Known Member
I need some help with adding a dimmer I purchased.

On one side of the LED REMOTED DIMMER it has 3 plug ins, they are are labeled as SINK CURRENT 0 V, 10V, 10V with a 250mA max label underneath the 3 plugins for the wires.

On the other side( also with 3 plug ins) it says Max Load 110 V/1kW 100-240VAC, the 3 options for the wire plugins are L OUT, L IN, N IN

I have the two wires(+/-) from a HLG-240-2100 connected to the L in N in sections but the dimmer isn't working.

Using two QB 304's, anybody familiar with these type of dimmers? Did I buy the wrong type? It's one of those remote controlled dimmers that also has an analog dimmer attached to it,
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Infrared-12-Key-Triac-Dimmer-110V-220V-Knob-PWM-0-10V-Triac-LED-Dimmer-Switch-for/32262490477.html

similar to the link above
 
Unit Farm System Supply

Unit Farm System Supply

Well-Known Member
project fuoro said:
Good to have you on board haze. As soon as some others begin to give their input and experiences, you should learn and see a great deal of information.

There is a lot of B.S. out there, and I didn't realize it until I was out a pretty penny on a stupid 55W panel of LEDs. Things have changed since then, as they do, but only for the better, which is good.

Stay tuned Haze! Glad your on board!

-pf-
Click to expand...
sorry for your experience. it is great you are ok now
 
Unit Farm System Supply

Unit Farm System Supply

Well-Known Member
DarthPlagueis said:
I need some help with adding a dimmer I purchased.

On one side of the LED REMOTED DIMMER it has 3 plug ins, they are are labeled as SINK CURRENT 0 V, 10V, 10V with a 250mA max label underneath the 3 plugins for the wires.

On the other side( also with 3 plug ins) it says Max Load 110 V/1kW 100-240VAC, the 3 options for the wire plugins are L OUT, L IN, N IN

I have the two wires(+/-) from a HLG-240-2100 connected to the L in N in sections but the dimmer isn't working.

Using two QB 304's, anybody familiar with these type of dimmers? Did I buy the wrong type? It's one of those remote controlled dimmers that also has an analog dimmer attached to it,
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Infrared-12-Key-Triac-Dimmer-110V-220V-Knob-PWM-0-10V-Triac-LED-Dimmer-Switch-for/32262490477.html

similar to the link above
Click to expand...
no tried before,
 
skoomd

skoomd

Well-Known Member
BudMan54 said:
i use these babies and love them!

Advanced Platinum Series P300 300w 12-band LED Grow Light - DUAL VEG/FLOWER FULL SPECTRUM
View attachment 4124518
Click to expand...
LOL i am sorry dude but you got scammed by one of the worst grow light companies there is. I would honest to god say advanced platinum LEDs are a bigger scam than kindLED and blackdog LED. Just watch their deceptive videos on youtube. Assuming youtube didnt ban their channel too.
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
DarthPlagueis said:
I need some help with adding a dimmer I purchased.

On one side of the LED REMOTED DIMMER it has 3 plug ins, they are are labeled as SINK CURRENT 0 V, 10V, 10V with a 250mA max label underneath the 3 plugins for the wires.

On the other side( also with 3 plug ins) it says Max Load 110 V/1kW 100-240VAC, the 3 options for the wire plugins are L OUT, L IN, N IN

I have the two wires(+/-) from a HLG-240-2100 connected to the L in N in sections but the dimmer isn't working.

Using two QB 304's, anybody familiar with these type of dimmers? Did I buy the wrong type? It's one of those remote controlled dimmers that also has an analog dimmer attached to it,
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Infrared-12-Key-Triac-Dimmer-110V-220V-Knob-PWM-0-10V-Triac-LED-Dimmer-Switch-for/32262490477.html

similar to the link above
Click to expand...
Hmm! The dimmer shown on their website is not compatible but it sounds you have a different modell.
If it's a 0- or 1-10V or PWM dimmer it needs some additional power from the wall(110 or 220v).
The N and L connections must be connected to Live and Neutral from a wall plug because it needs 110 or 220VAC to work. The dimmer wires from the driver (blue and white) needs to be connected to the 10v PWM connections. A few pictures would help to figure this out.
 
DarthPlagueis

DarthPlagueis

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
Hmm! The dimmer shown on their website is not compatible but it sounds you have a different modell.
If it's a 0- or 1-10V or PWM dimmer it needs some additional power from the wall(110 or 220v).
The N and L connections must be connected to Live and Neutral from a wall plug because it needs 110 or 220VAC to work. The dimmer wires from the driver (blue and white) needs to be connected to the 10v PWM connections. A few pictures would help to figure this out.
Click to expand...
Yeah I couldn't find the exact model I have, it's a china generic one though so for all I know it doesn't work, bought it for cheap. FOr some reason the upload a file button wont work
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top