Low powered leds like that just need to run them with everything they’ve got
I highly doubt that light even comes close to 1k watts actually pulled from the plug. I'd say run it wide open for the entire grow and use every last watt the light puts out.
I use 200 watts of hlgs 100 spec r‘s for each 126 site cloner. 100 watts IMO isn’t worth the time and power you use for it.
Sounds a like you just wanna play with knobs mate!
Hey if I could afford even a spider farmer I would be happy, but 100 watts is better than 0 watts in my situation. I only speculate because I don't have access to a more powerful light.
When you say led bulb do you mean like a standard bulb with the diffuser removed?
Yep! There's a good video on YouTube by Shane at the Migro channel. I think it's called budget DIY led light or something.
You can get a rough idea by looking at the lumen rating and calculate lumens per watt. Household bulbs are often around 100 lm/w. HLG says their 100w model draws 95w and spits out 14000+ lm. That's around 150 lm/w. The spectrums created by the phosphors are probably not identical but it should still give you a decent estimate.
Don't worry I already worked that one out by accident one day, I was luckily it didn't have a huge current running through it!You can get a rough idea by looking at the lumen rating and calculate lumens per watt. Household bulbs are often around 100 lm/w. HLG says their 100w model draws 95w and spits out 14000+ lm. That's around 150 lm/w. The spectrums created by the phosphors are probably not identical but it should still give you a decent estimate.
One nice feature of the HLG lamp (or any serious LED grow light) is that it won't electrocute us when accidentally touching the lamp's connectors when it's operating, which unfortunately can happen with household bulbs. Removing the dome removes the safety barrier and ingress protection. Stay safe!
Cheap household bulbs are often built without an isolated driver. Basically, the low voltage side isn't properly and safely separated from the high voltage side and physically touching the low voltage side can with a bit of bad luck be the same thing as touching the high voltage side.
www.meanwell-web.com
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I'm using a 600. 1000 and two 300 watt LED full spectrum they seem to be doing well
Yeah that plants looking decent my dude, good work
So if you were to get a reptile lamp for UV and say a therapy lamp for IR? I can't imagine that wouldnt be cheap to run along 100w of LEDs! I've bookmarked that link buddy, when I got some spare change I'd love to check one out in person. Thank you!Cheap household bulbs are often built without an isolated driver. Basically, the low voltage side isn't properly and safely separated from the high voltage side and physically touching the low voltage side can with a bit of bad luck be the same thing as touching the high voltage side.
Here's a short read for anyone interested:
Isolated or Non-isolated?
With the rising awareness of energy saving and the significantly dropping cost of LED fixtures, LED fixtures have become more and more prevalent.
It's great that it ended well for you
Let's collectively keep informing the rest of the community too.
Far red and UV wavelengths are made with different diodes than regular "white" diodes. You can DIY your way around it somewhat. UV can be supplied with reptile bulbs, for example.
If you're interested in a smaller 36w E27 bulb with bare diodes that reasonably priced, our LEDTonic Q2 is a pretty awesome alternative.
PS. it has an isolated driver and operates at 150 lm/w (2.13 µmol/J)
Yeeeaaahhhhh! You told me!