Mau5Capades: builds & grow journal
- Thread starter Growmau5
- Start date
joey green
Well-Known Member
put on gloves, carefully remove all stems in buds, pre-press remaining bud parts. i build a simple pressing tool out of some legos, i get pressed rectangles the size of a standard 2x4 lego block. press @ 80/90°C for several minutes --> profit
Grauman5,
Your finished 32 cxb3590 powered by 4 185H-C700 on the 5.866 wide passive heat sinks on youtube is an excellent design.800watts covering 32 square feet is outstanding,many use more to cover 16 square feet.
I'm very curious if you decided on optimal current?
I think no matter how bright light gets there's a limit on yeild in a fixed space.No matter what's done you can only get so much juice out of a lemon.
Your finished 32 cxb3590 powered by 4 185H-C700 on the 5.866 wide passive heat sinks on youtube is an excellent design.800watts covering 32 square feet is outstanding,many use more to cover 16 square feet.
I'm very curious if you decided on optimal current?
I think no matter how bright light gets there's a limit on yeild in a fixed space.No matter what's done you can only get so much juice out of a lemon.
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BobCajun
Well-Known Member
Was the the lowest temp you found would work? If that's all you need then theoretically you could just put the clamp and the bud inside a boilable plastic bag and submerge it in near-boiling water for a while. Maybe have a small hydraulic piston as the press, with a hose going to the pump, so you could increase pressure from a distance away from the water kettle.
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80 was the lowest as you don't hear much sizzling so usually after 30-60s i turn on 90, i get most with 90, usually a second press at 100 and an third at 110, but the third doesnt yield much usually so it's basicly not that important. the chips get vaped (and are still tasty, little to no burned/toasted aroma) at around 220°C
Queece
Well-Known Member
What you really need to do, is worry about pressure. You want to utilize the lowest temperature possible and let the mechanical force push the resin out, the heat just kinds of melts down the wax membrane on the trich head. Doesn't take much to do that, I usually press just one time at 180F at around 1.25 tons of downward force over a very small area. I've seen some guys now are not even using heat, just like a 50 ton auger thing that essentially just wrings everything out. So I would adjust your heat settings to what pressure you are working with. I'd say with a 5 ton press, you could get away with 160F even. Just enough to get plant wax mobile, and that usually isn't very much at all.
BobCajun
Well-Known Member
Great, so you really never need all that much heat. For larger volumes of material you might do better with a pipe and rod type device. The bottom of the pipe would be blocked by a flat plate to which it is bolted or whatever. Put that in an oven at 100 degrees until it's hot then take it out and apply pressure to the rod. Resin would seep out from the cracks where the pipe meets the plate. Doing it flat seems like it would use more space than necessary. An oz of bud flattened right out would get pretty big around. You know those little presses they sell for making hash pucks? Something like that.
Actually I guess this would be kind of messy since some resin would probably get squeezed out the top around the rod. Anyway, something along those lines could be worked out. Something like these hash puck presses but with cracks or small holes at the bottom. Actually, one hole in the bottom would probably do and you could drill one and maybe also put some screen inside.
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Queece
Well-Known Member
Here's my question, they always call those things pollen presses, is that actually a good way to store pollen? I would think it is, but maybe damage is done by the press that I'm not accounting for. I'm kind of liking that, have like an ice-cube tray with a different male puck in each slot. I always worry I'm going to accidentally kick over a bag of pollen and fuck my life up.
Atticde
Active Member
I just started reading your thread and it's awesome! I decided to read the entire discussion and I think that will take a while.
I just got a few questions already, I hope you're fine with answering them although these might be basics.
In the video you said you're using 4000K's on the outside and 3000K's on the inside. I would use more lower Kelvin led's than higher ones. Why did you chose this combination? I assume you're using this fixture for veg and blooming?
Why should you use lenses in general? Don't they "absorb" light?
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steel smoking
Member
can anyone tell me what gauge wire works for the ideal cob holders? thanks in advance!!
Fastslappy
Well-Known Member
18 stranded rated @ 300 volts covering
Queece
Well-Known Member
YEAH DON'T USE LENSES LISTEN TO MEEEEEEEEEE QUEECE.
That's just my opinion, though, man. What you want to do mane, with your color temperature, lemme break it down like a proper layman.
Blue or cooler chips, mainly from 4000k on up, have less phosphor in them, and are a good deal more efficient at producing very high energy blue photons that penetrate well and plants like them a lot. But warmer white (2700k-3000k) produces a physiological effect of opening the leaves' stomata which make photosynthesis much more efficient.
So what you want, is a lot of efficiency built into the bluer chips, and just a couple warm ones that are, really only slightly less efficient, but mainly used to just augment the spectrum. Mainly the plant is just going to benefit from more photons, but adding a little warmer red-shift can help with metabolic rate. Less is more.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
18awg SOLID is a hell of a lot easier. At least for connecting cobs in series. You may want stranded on the end + & - cobs.
Queece
Well-Known Member
I just have a bunch of diffuse light trapped in a reflective tent, so I don't really need an optic, the photons are eventually going to collide with the leaves regardless. I like having a super even spread, like stuff that's touching the outer wall looks identical to the nugs from the epicenter. And my clients don't like it when I grow mono crops, so I'm usually running 8 different cuts, and my canopies are never trellised or anything, so I wouldn't want really stretchy plants getting closer than other stuff with weird focal points potentially singing your bits. Don't wanna be beemin out your creep dawg. If weed gets that close to a light that powerful, it kills all the demons that live in the nugs that get you high.
