Mau5Capades: builds & grow journal

ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Growmau5 said:
well, everybody seems to be using 3500k cxb3590 CD bin these days, so I bought those. but I am now digesting this thread that I missed while on Thanksgiving holiday: https://www.rollitup.org/t/top-bin-cob-comparison.891010/

Now I am thinking / definitely ordering a few CXB3590 5000K CD bin to throw in my mix. along with this PCB project to add some 660nm deep reds.
And if I am not happy, next step would be switch all (32) of my 3590s from 700ma to 1400ma and blast bitches titties off. kind of like a stereo so loud it will blow girls cloths off, but with leds. :)
Click to expand...
THUMP dat bass!
 
Oregon Gardener

Oregon Gardener

Well-Known Member
Growmau5 said:
I'm starting a new chapter in my flowering room and building a new setup. I wanted to start this thread to have a place to show my projects while following along with my latest grow.

Grow space: 4' x 10'
Dissipation: ~1200w for 30 watts/sqft
mostly CXA3070 AD, mixed 3k & 4K run @ 1400mA

Strains Mattman's Payday, Grape Stomper13, Sin City Sin Mint, Sin City Tangerine Power, La Blanca (white strain), La Plata Labs: Sour Pez. 18 plants total in 5 gallon nursery pots.

I have really enjoyed building "fixtures" with multiple drivers, heatsinks, frames, enclosures. These lights work great for most purposes but lack the flexibility I am looking for in my flowering room. The concept of modular LEDs is by no means new. SupraSPL's modular COB diy thread from over a year ago was among the first places I went to research DIY LEDs. The simplicity and flexibility of this type of system has a lot of merits that I hope to showcase in this journal. Here are some pictures of the build as it stands right now, I'll have everything done, hung, and growing plants in the next few days.

Cheers
Growmau5

View attachment 3482963 View attachment 3482966 View attachment 3482967
Click to expand...
Do you have a You Tube ch.
 
BobCajun

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
In reference to the images in post #459, interesting how varying the current also varies the spectrum, much higher amount of red at lower current.
 
Greengenes707

Greengenes707

Well-Known Member
BobCajun said:
In reference to the images in post #459, interesting how varying the current also varies the spectrum, much higher amount of red at lower current.
Click to expand...
It's a fixed amount of red...(4@700ma=~2600mW) while the white aspect is variable(50w/1400ma or 25w/700ma). It is the same amount of red in every spectrum I posted. The 1400ma was so that people could see how it would influence the spectrum in a way that "most" are running their cxb's(~50w)...seeing as he was mentioning making it publically available.
Here is something a little closer to home for many with a 2700K and the same amount of red added.

Screen Shot 2015-12-15 at 12.04.34 PM.jpg

The higher K's take more to influence because of their overall output as well as near the same absolute red power as a lower K. But overall, can raise system efficiency if done right. Now let's also not get blinded by 660...don't forget 630 and even 730.
 
dionysus4

dionysus4

Well-Known Member
Greengenes707 said:
It's a fixed amount of red...(4@700ma=~2600mW) while the white aspect is variable(50w/1400ma or 25w/700ma). It is the same amount of red in every spectrum I posted. The 1400ma was so that people could see how it would influence the spectrum in a way that "most" are running their cxb's(~50w)...seeing as he was mentioning making it publically available.
Here is something a little closer to home for many with a 2700K and the same amount of red added.

View attachment 3565060

The higher K's take more to influence because of their overall output as well as near the same absolute red power as a lower K. But overall, can raise system efficiency if done right. Now let's also not get blinded by 660...don't forget 630 and even 730.
Click to expand...

thats cool what r u using to get those spectrum graphs?

id love to play around a bit
 
BobCajun

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
Greengenes707 said:
It's a fixed amount of red...(4@700ma=~2600mW) while the white aspect is variable(50w/1400ma or 25w/700ma). It is the same amount of red in every spectrum I posted.
Click to expand...
Oh okay, I guess it just looked like more in the graph. On another subject, have you ever tried to peel that yellow/orange phosphor layer off a COB? I wonder if you could peel it off and have a pure blue COB. Why would I want a blue COB, you might ask. Because I read that plants do most of their stem elongation just before dawn rather than during the day. Since blue light doesn't effect flowering, in theory you should be able to use blue light all night and flowering would proceed as normal BUT maybe the stems wouldn't stretch like they normally do because the plants think they were under 24 hour light as far as stem growth goes. You would only need it for the first 3-5 weeks of flowering. The long nights have to be the reason for the stretching so it should be possible to neutralize it with blue light, which also has an internode shortening effect of its own to make the reduction of stretch even more impressive. If you ever get a burnt out COB please see if the coating is peelable.
 
Greengenes707

Greengenes707

Well-Known Member
dionysus4 said:
thats cool what r u using to get those spectrum graphs?

id love to play around a bit
Click to expand...
The osram/Sylvania tool(google...I don't have a link) it's free. You can import digitized spd's. Once I'm done moving I'll put in the specific cree spectrums.

@BobCajun yes, it's removable...sort of. Happens all the time to ANY WHITE PHOSPHORUS led. Not just cobs. Happens a lot when you takes the globe off cree bulbs too if not careful.
 
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Stephenj37826

Stephenj37826

Well-Known Member
BobCajun said:
Oh okay, I guess it just looked like more in the graph. On another subject, have you ever tried to peel that yellow/orange phosphor layer off a COB? I wonder if you could peel it off and have a pure blue COB. Why would I want a blue COB, you might ask. Because I read that plants do most of their stem elongation just before dawn rather than during the day. Since blue light doesn't effect flowering, in theory you should be able to use blue light all night and flowering would proceed as normal BUT maybe the stems wouldn't stretch like they normally do because the plants think they were under 24 hour light as far as stem growth goes. You would only need it for the first 3-5 weeks of flowering. The long nights have to be the reason for the stretching so it should be possible to neutralize it with blue light, which also has an internode shortening effect of its own to make the reduction of stretch even more impressive. If you ever get a burnt out COB please see if the coating is peelable.
Click to expand...
If I'm not mistaken this has been tried and your girls grow boy parts. Ed Rothensole had this theory a few years ago.
 
organic-fanatic

organic-fanatic

Active Member
Here's TE="BobCajun, post: 12151997, member: 145029"]In reference to the images in post #459, interesting how varying the current also varies the spectrum, much higher amount of red at lower current.[/QUOTE]
Here's my theory, different colors travel at different speed and different distance.
notice the color of the sun at first light (farthest away) is in the 2k range more red. Mid day when the sun is directly above and (closest) is around 5-6k & 6k plus in mid summer. more blue then tapering of again to 2k range at sunset.
so when we see this spectral curve in a datasheet it is @ a certain test power & distance.
If you had one of those fancy meters like the spectrum king guy has i bet you will notice this. And different curve from each distance and power level.
Also i notice with any dimming house lamp when its on high its more white as it dims it gets more yellow.
also usually a 450nm chip takes alot more power than say a 660 nm.
just my theories.
 
P

PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
organic-fanatic said:
Here's my theory, different colors travel at different speed and different distance.
notice the color of the sun at first light (farthest away) is in the 2k range more red. Mid day when the sun is directly above and (closest) is around 5-6k & 6k plus in mid summer. more blue then tapering of again to 2k range at sunset.
.
Click to expand...

Within the visible range of light, red light waves (that have longer wavelengths) are scattered the least by atmospheric gas molecules. So at sunrise and sunset, when the sunlight travels a long path through the atmosphere to reach our eyes, the blue light has been mostly removed, leaving mostly red and yellow light remaining.
 
BobCajun

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
Stephenj37826 said:
If I'm not mistaken this has been tried and your girls grow boy parts. Ed Rothensole had this theory a few years ago.
Click to expand...
I haven't found any reports of it. I found something where Ed said he tried it for a very short time but didn't complete any experiments. Maybe green light instead.
 
Growmau5

Growmau5

Well-Known Member
Harvest Update: cxb3590@700ma
I don't want to be one of those people that promote everything they do as god's gift. So let me say this first: I chose a strain (sin city: wht nightmare x bd) that I thought was going to be a winner. As it turns out, of the 7 different phenotypes flowered in this run, all of them seem to be very blue dream dominate. So I ended up producing ALOT of mid shelf cannabis.
With that said, the alien blues, tangerine power, and payday were consistent with the quality that I expect and have produced under other lighting setups.
* also, these plants ended up at around 78" tall! so anything below the 24" mark that was not lollipopped up was pretty much larf.

here is a drawing of my garden comparing my last yield from cxa3070 to this yield with the cxb3590. it has all the metrics I could think of. I am working on the video and photos now, so I will have a more detailed explanation there and have attempted to present bullet proof documentation to back up my claims. cheers.

Garden layout 1.jpg
 
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