mixing large amounts of nutes, how to keep fresh?

xtsho

Well-Known Member
with the 4 1gal jugs i meant that as temporary until getting the pump that i can shake them up frequently to help with the salt binding and funk (im sure it will help the funk issueas im assuming this pump will be 50-150$ depending if im sold on their warranty and service and likelihood of faliure prematurely but i can get the pump probably within a few weeks, does anyone have links to good pumps cheap or best quality?
Why not just mix your nutes as you need them? And a small pump only costs around $10.
 

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
Why not just mix your nutes as you need them? And a small pump only costs around $10.
i am not able to look into it just yet but will in a few moments and i shop aggressively so that all i have to do is replace it when it breaks unless i have to, for ex the peoduct is safe or UL listed, warrantied, food grade plastic etc it checks every box and know where to buy it, dont know anything about pumps never had to buy one but i thought when i did look into industrial pumps they were costly i think i checked into it because of auto feed setups but need other things first. do t like to mix daily as i work during the week and the ph isnt fast to do, need wait a few mins each dose of ph up or down and can take 5 to 10 tries i just made more today and went off a reciepe i made amd the EC was spot on but ph dosing varied heavily depending on how much ppm is in the water and solution and having to hand feed with janky items until i buy things it takes too long every morning to do or night. the pump sounds like the solution and i think i stored it negligently and poor use when taking some out to feed caused contamination (dunking a jug to fill it with particles on it) and no circulation ultimatly causing this thread to be writen up which yall helped alot with, this advice probably is only in the auto feed section barried in it but dont recall, i think i scanned through it to only see a pump suggested for auto drainage not how nutes should store and i surely read the entire nutrient section several times now.
 

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
Pool shock 0,5g per 100L (65% HTH) or peroxide 3ml per litre (3% food grade). Bleach can be also used… I have same issue just right now but trying to start at 0,8EC (with my tap of 0,5) to see what happens. EC in potting soil is ussually way higher and plants do not care. I have been growing long time from clones so this hassle was dodging me, but it looks like I am going to loose my pheno so I have planted two new seeds. Realized I can not hit them hard like the clones did, but I am already too lazy for bringing RO in the jugs. Either way, it may cost me two weeks of time and two seeds at the worst scenario so not such a big deal. Not advising you to do the same, because I do not know the results yet.
the trash of jugs adds up too and isnt very stealthy even though im compliant with all laws. i like the idea of yielding more than cost put in i think the tap helps with adding volume but this is coco hydro, so the calmg is needed to some extent and takes up so much ec space and its fustrating, diluting hardly brings the ec down.
 

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
First clue is having to mix eh? If the shit was stable and salts didn’t precipitate it would come that way in one bottle. It comes as components for reasons.

its so i can change the NER too throughout the grow cycles which the nutes are for general hydroponics and from what ive learned is intended to do and as far as the smell and contaminents, i was wondering if it was the storing conditions or the nutes but i think thats been resolved now if i follow this advice
 

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
i will get it asap knowing its just 15$ but will want quality still but like i said im maxed out for a few days will just frequently stir the bucket and be careful not to let impurities in like dust hair etc
 

Snickerpus

Active Member
i am not able to look into it just yet but will in a few moments and i shop aggressively so that all i have to do is replace it when it breaks unless i have to, for ex the peoduct is safe or UL listed, warrantied, food grade plastic etc it checks every box and know where to buy it, dont know anything about pumps never had to buy one but i thought when i did look into industrial pumps they were costly i think i checked into it because of auto feed setups but need other things first. do t like to mix daily as i work during the week and the ph isnt fast to do, need wait a few mins each dose of ph up or down and can take 5 to 10 tries i just made more today and went off a reciepe i made amd the EC was spot on but ph dosing varied heavily depending on how much ppm is in the water and solution and having to hand feed with janky items until i buy things it takes too long every morning to do or night. the pump sounds like the solution and i think i stored it negligently and poor use when taking some out to feed caused contamination (dunking a jug to fill it with particles on it) and no circulation ultimatly causing this thread to be writen up which yall helped alot with, this advice probably is only in the auto feed section barried in it but dont recall, i think i scanned through it to only see a pump suggested for auto drainage not how nutes should store and i surely read the entire nutrient section several times now.
You are definitely not suppose to adjusting pH by adding both up and down. You either use one or another but not together.
 

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
You are definitely not suppose to adjusting pH by adding both up and down. You either use one or another but not together.
i was trying to repeat a record i took down and got the right ec i planned for but new to messing with distilled (shortly after weiting thread i found some RO systems im totally going to get, not bad at all!) but the ph shot down so i needed to up the ph. part of why i need this done over weekend i really dont have time in the AM but next batch i will tip toe with the ph down. should be ok for this batch tho right?
 

Drop That Sound

Well-Known Member
Nutrient water (without any organic type additives) shouldn't really smell at all, even if it sat for a week. Even in kratky style grows, with no aeration.

Some kind of bacterial contamination would have to be happening for it to smell, i'm pretty sure.
 

twentyeight.threefive

Well-Known Member
CalMag isn’t needed for coco. Plain tap water and nutrients. Nutrients contain both calcium and magnesium, if they don’t they aren’t quality nutrients and I’d switch from them immediately.

If you pH down (or up in rare cases) you don’t need to wait 5-10 minutes. Stir the solution and you can recheck almost immediately. Once it’s stirred then the solution should be homogeneous and even pH’ed. I don’t wait at all after using pH down and stirring it in before rechecking pH.
 

Snickerpus

Active Member
i was trying to repeat a record i took down and got the right ec i planned for but new to messing with distilled (shortly after weiting thread i found some RO systems im totally going to get, not bad at all!) but the ph shot down so i needed to up the ph. part of why i need this done over weekend i really dont have time in the AM but next batch i will tip toe with the ph down. should be ok for this batch tho right?
Look, this dilution process is only for dumb people who are not able to count and read the ratios out of feeding schedule. For eg. you have 3-part grow-micro-bloom botlled base food and you are supposed to use 0,8ml of G, 1,6ml of M and 2,4ml of B. That means you get ratio 1:2:3 G:M:B and you can go whatever dose you want by keeping those ratios. 0,1-0,2-0,3ml gives you ballanced food as well as 0,8-1,6-2,4ml just at lower EC which you are looking for. The thing about calmag is, that it is not neccesary to use when you have nutrient line providing ballanced food, those contain calcium and magnesium in the botlles already to satisfy the plant needs. You can make some high EC calmag solution and flush your medium prior to planting, just to be sure that those in your base food stays available for the plants in early begginings. Than of course set the pH and EC of medium back down. Do not use pH up and down together, Yeah I know when using RO water with such low amount of nutrients, the amount of pH adjuster needed is like one and half drop. One is not enough and two is too much. Peroxide is easy to use for begginers to keep your water clear.
 

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
Look, this dilution process is only for dumb people who are not able to count and read the ratios out of feeding schedule. For eg. you have 3-part grow-micro-bloom botlled base food and you are supposed to use 0,8ml of G, 1,6ml of M and 2,4ml of B. That means you get ratio 1:2:3 G:M:B and you can go whatever dose you want by keeping those ratios. 0,1-0,2-0,3ml gives you ballanced food as well as 0,8-1,6-2,4ml just at lower EC which you are looking for. The thing about calmag is, that it is not neccesary to use when you have nutrient line providing ballanced food, those contain calcium and magnesium in the botlles already to satisfy the plant needs. You can make some high EC calmag solution and flush your medium prior to planting, just to be sure that those in your base food stays available for the plants in early begginings. Than of course set the pH and EC of medium back down. Do not use pH up and down together, Yeah I know when using RO water with such low amount of nutrients, the amount of pH adjuster needed is like one and half drop. One is not enough and two is too much. Peroxide is easy to use for begginers to keep your water clear.
food for thought thank you. i was using little to no bloom as i read plants use that during flowering mostly but everyone has their opinion, im just looking for a basic setup that simply works and try to work with only couple strains at a time so its easier on me in terms of sudden distress. so whats going on here then?

image.jpg

reading that this is immobile deficiency. calmg or nitrogen? i water heavily til 50% runoff cause its hard to feed it less than that unless i do them seperately with marked runoff trays and figured they need transplanting asap anyway and was going to feed accordingly. so if this is calmag, how? if its nitrogen, how? i use plenty of both. this makes me hesitant to remove calmg if thats a calmg deficiency. for a few weeks i waters with diluted solution with no calmag just water and so i only just started maintaining a full dose of calmg and is only a few days in with consistant treatment so calmg deficiency is actually possible as it doesnt suggest lower than 3ml of calmg dosage which i technically diluted to nothing so i kinda tried that already.
 
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Lenin1917

Well-Known Member
Mix in the correct order, use something to keep algae and anaerobic bacteria in check (hydroguard, peroxide, chlorine) if you use beneficial microbes go hydroguard because peroxide or chlorine will kill them. If you don’t then go with peroxide or bleach.
 

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
Mix in the correct order, use something to keep algae and anaerobic bacteria in check (hydroguard, peroxide, chlorine) if you use beneficial microbes go hydroguard because peroxide or chlorine will kill them. If you don’t then go with peroxide or bleach.
i was about to look into that too though this doesnt happen with my big mother plants in 5 gal maybe its from small pot and tent space no circulation for another few days just exaust until i am able to get another fan. its only the top layer of perlite. but will get these supplies and try this out soon with future seedlings clones
 

Snickerpus

Active Member
food for thought thank you. i was using little to no bloom as i read plants use that during flowering mostly but everyone has their opinion, im just looking for a basic setup that simply works and try to work with only couple strains at a time so its easier on me in terms of sudden distress. so whats going on here then?

View attachment 5146634

reading that this is immobile deficiency. calmg or nitrogen? i water heavily til 50% runoff cause its hard to feed it less than that unless i do them seperately with marked runoff trays and figured they need transplanting asap anyway and was going to feed accordingly. so if this is calmag, how? if its nitrogen, how? i use plenty of both. this makes me hesitant to remove calmg if thats a calmg deficiency
How strong is the food by this plant?
 

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
How strong is the food by this plant?
1.15 EC calmg 1 tsp per gal (my main source says you can lower it and it does in the schedule, dr mj coco) .5 tsp micro .5 tsp grow 1/10th tsp bloom and then ph down carefully so i dont have to go ph up and this is 60/40 distilled /tap to add some volume. want to have 5 days worth will get pump to circulate incase this is a salt binding effect from stagnant sitting solution. i could do just distilled if i want to up the doses of nutes to a custom level but this is actually close to what the suggested schedule doses. mixing 2 qts distilled with 2 qts tap always brings it to .35 EC which was suggested as the threashold of ok starting water. also, diluting in general is to dial in the dose of the nutrients. if you needed to use calmag it quickly jumps the ec to 1.6 which most agree is too salty. with smaller dose id imagine it would still be 1.4 and thats if you have pure water or else add however much to that of what your ec water starts at. i havent seen much anywhere about not adding any calmag to hydro coco. the coco will steal the little big thats in the tap and nutrients but i can test it out on one plant thats why i have a perpetuating garden.
 
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Snickerpus

Active Member
1.15 EC calmg 1 tsp per gal (my main source says you can lower it and it does in the schedule, dr mj coco) .5 tsp micro .5 tsp grow 1/10th tsp bloom and then ph down carefully so i dont have to go ph up and this is 60/40 distilled /tap to add some volume. want to have 5 days worth will get pump to circulate incase this is a salt binding effect from stagnant sitting solution. i could do just distilled if i want to up the doses of nutes to a custom level but this is actually close to what the suggested schedule doses. mixing 2 qts distilled with 2 qts tap always brings it to .35 EC which was suggested as the threashold of ok starting water
Take your tap, mix it with all parts of your base fertizer schedule to EC 1,2 according to the given ratios, than adjust pH to 6,0 and feed daily to runoff. Try to skip calmag supplement and remove your runoff asap. Which nutrients, pH down and pH meter do you use? Be specific please
 
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