mollasess

imthemedic said:

When does everyone stop using mollasess? I have used it up till the last two weeks of flower along with my nutes. Then stopped and water only from there. I was wondering what it would hurt to use the mollasess and water only during those last two weeks? Anyone trying that?

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nope keep doing mollasess AND water the last week or two. the reason you cut out everything else is because if your using a non-organic nute you want to flush the salts and chemicals out of the plant before you smoke it.

sir smokesalot said:

nope keep doing mollasess AND water the last week or two. the reason you cut out everything else is because if your using a non-organic nute you want to flush the salts and chemicals out of the plant before you smoke it.

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I agree! I'm sure we will use it til the very end, cutting out nutes of course. Just molasses and water.

Thanks alot guys. I figured it would be ok since it wasn't some harsh chemical. I bet it will realy help put the weight on in the last week or two. I already had to stake up the plants last week.They couldn't hold themselves up.Two more weeks to go....

Just curious, what is it in the molassas that effects the plant? If it's the sugar, then would honey theoretically work as a subsitute?

I just started using Tiger Bloom and molasses (Plantation Blackstrap unsulfured) last week. She seems to love it.

specialkayme said:

Just curious, what is it in the molassas that effects the plant? If it's the sugar, then would honey theoretically work as a subsitute?

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NO!! NO!! Don't use honey...

When sugar is refined, the juice squeezed from the plants is boiled until it becomes a syrupy mixture. Molasses is the remaining brownish liquid.

A thick, dark, heavy sweet syrup. It's the way the molasses itself exists that makes it ready available to the plant. It helps with keeping down stress. The plant produces sugar so adding Molasses just speeds up and helps boost production. Like Natural "steroids" for your plants. It will boost your trichromes like NUTS! Not to mention most importantly yours BUDS!

Get UNSULPHURED Molasses. Any kind of Unsulphured should do. We use "BlackStrap Unsulphured".

I uderstand, but honey is roughly the same thing, only not processed by man. From what I have read, it's not only the sugars that the plants love, but the trace minerals as well. Honey contains all of the same trace minerals, as well as the sugars. Honey has been known to contain, among other things:

Phosphoric acid
Iron
Manganese
Chlorine
Calcium
Silicates
Magnesium
Potassium
Sodium
Levulose
Invert sugars
Cane-sugar
Glucose
Maltose
Galactose
Lactose

The only difference between the two, as far as this application goes, is that you can garintee the organic nature of the honey, but you can't say that much about the mollasess. Plus, due to the fact that honey contains Phosphoric Acid, it is it's own preserving agent, garinteeing that you arn't adding any foreign sugstances into your plants along with the honey.

I'm not saying I'm right, just that I don't see the difference. Can anyone clearify this to me?

Im new to growing pot but not to growing in general. infact i have a ag degree's in agronomy and pre-vet. my question is why use sulfer free? adding sulfer to the soil in crops has proved its self time and again as a production booster but, because its not economical so its not used. also being fairly new further research needs to be done.

outsidegrower said:

Im new to growing pot but not to growing in general. infact i have a ag degree's in agronomy and pre-vet. my question is why use sulfer free? adding sulfer to the soil in crops has proved its self time and again as a production booster but, because its not economical so its not used. also being fairly new further research needs to be done.

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You guys can use whatever you want honestly... Experiment! I'm just going by what expert growers have SHOWN me and told me what exact kind to use and how MUCH to use. Of course too much of a good thing is bad for anything so you don't want to over do it. I wouldn't recommend any more than 2 tablespoons per gallon.

If you look at any "BLOOM BOOSTER", whether it's at Wal-Mart or in an expensive hydro store, and compare it to a bottle of Unsulphured BlackStrap Molasses... It's basically molasses. Looks like it, smells like it. only difference is about $100 more or less.

I've seen the results of Unsulphured BlackStrap Molasses that has been applied to plants and not only did it increase trichomes it heavily increased yield. Buds become more dense, thick, and full of crystals. Molasses also contains Magnesium, Calcium, and Iron. Smaller amounts of Potassium and Sodium. Plants produce sugar and from what I've been told Molasses is the closest to what the plant makes... Other than the smell, Molasses even LOOKS like resin.

All I know is ever since I started using Molasses my leaves are dark green and lush. They are FULL of crystals and you can tell the cola is going to be ENORMOUS. Molasses is completely organic as well so you don't have to worry about messing up your complete organic grow. I don't know EXACTLY why you use "Unsulphured". From what I gather it's STRAIGHT from the plant, the purest form. I will try to find out the answer to your questions. I'm sorry I was like "NO! NO! DON'T!..." I've just never heard of anyone using honey.

I don't see why honey wouldn't be an excellent additive apart from the cost.
Mollasses is cheap as, where honey isn't.
Unless of course if you use cheap honey which has been extracted with heat and had loads of glucose syrup added.

They honey most people buy from the store is so processed that it ends up being about 50% actual honey, and 50% corn syrup and water. But I was talking about actual honey. I'm aware of the cost, but when you keep bees and have access to dozens of gallons, the cost is next to nothing. Even still, it is more expensive than molllasess. Lol, I was just wondering. I might try an experiement after I do my next harvest.

specialkayme said:

They honey most people buy from the store is so processed that it ends up being about 50% actual honey, and 50% corn syrup and water. But I was talking about actual honey. I'm aware of the cost, but when you keep bees and have access to dozens of gallons, the cost is next to nothing. Even still, it is more expensive than molllasess. Lol, I was just wondering. I might try an experiement after I do my next harvest.

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In that case I would certainly try it on at least 1 plant to see the difference.

specialkayme said:

They honey most people buy from the store is so processed that it ends up being about 50% actual honey, and 50% corn syrup and water. But I was talking about actual honey. I'm aware of the cost, but when you keep bees and have access to dozens of gallons, the cost is next to nothing. Even still, it is more expensive than molllasess. Lol, I was just wondering. I might try an experiement after I do my next harvest.

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honey would be fine if like you say you have access to lots of it'
i use a product called ozi tonic it is organically derived from the bees wax
it is quite a good product,its full of vitamins and all the good stuff.

I use 2 tablespoons per 5 gal every time i feed, which is 3 times a week! I also grow outdoors!!!

I agree with the previous poster I wish I could +1 rep the whole thread as well...

I have been using mollasses on my outdoor started/indoor flowering plants since day 1 of veg.

It is my first grow, I stumbled on the mollasses thing in a different thread/board and thought to use it. I can only say that based on the responses here I am using about the same amount, my base stems are thicker than my fingers and I have them bent twice in an s-shape.

It definitely won't burn anything and if you can find it at walmart it's cheap.

I saw some where that you can use both honey or maple syurp.
They also said that you must pasturize the honey to kill the enzymz that will kill the good stuff in your soil ( the antibacterial ) Hope this helps
Happy Growing
GD

does any1 have a pic of mollasses, the actual stuff inside the packet, is it black and thick?

Page 4 post four of this thread it looks pretty much like the color of the jar but thick and sticky

Ive been using mollassess for years. Watch out for some of the molasses out there, because they dont have the iron or potassium that alot of the brands do. I use brer rabbit unsulphered, at a rate of 1 tbsp per gallon, when budding starts until finish!!!!! I will post some new pics!!! I also use tiger bloom, big bloom, and beastie bloomz!!!! Hope this answers some questions. P.S Molasses is a natural Bud stimulator due to the carbs in it. Its the same shit as Carb Boost and all the other chems that cost an arm and leg!! U CANT OVER DO IT!!!! PLUS IT WILL DOUBLE YOUR BUD WEIGHT!!! TRY IT BEFORE U JUDGE IT!!!!!! Peace guys, Im out!!!!!!

ok so ill get brer rabbit unsulphered right?
andmy plants are i think week 4 into budding im gowing out side.
and just get 2 tb spoons and put it in a cup of water then put it in the micerwave for a lil then add it to a gallon of water then pour it to my plants..right?
also i water my plant throughtly like i use the hose to water them and i water them alot atone time because i think its not getting watered throughtly.so yea but it waht i said right?