My first class with the golden teacher

canndo

Well-Known Member
some mycelium pornz anyone?

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out of the 12 jars 9 have growth, 3 will be fully colonized by sunday and i will case them, 3 more will be a few days behind and then the last 3 should be done by next weekend. the 3 jars that dont have any growth will be chucked if i dont see anything soon and re knocked to use for my second run. will use them for grain to grain transfers in around 21 jars. 12 pint sized and 9 1/2 pint sized.

i will probabally be doing a poo casing which will consist of leeched cow poo and vermiculite (pasturized) for my bottom layer, then my substrate (colonized popcorn) for the second layer and then plain pasturized vermiculite for my 3rd layer...

1. Don't use a "bottom layer", it invites contamination and does little good.
2. pure vermiculite makes a poor casing, you want something to lead the mycelium on.


Your growth is highly rhyzomorphic which is a very good sign so early on - if you do things right you could have a wonderful grow. You have a choice here, you can either use the corn as spawn into your leached manure or you can just use the corn straight. I don't think, however, that you have enough corn for a good yield all by itself. I'd go with your manure, plus straw or coir and a little vermiculite to take up the water slack at maybe 3 to one manure/grain. The longer the ratio of substrate to spawn the more danger of contamination, otherwise I'd say 10 or 12 to 1.
 

canndo

Well-Known Member
what do you guys think about using poo and hay as a bottom layer? will hay work like straw or is it a no no....? I have a bail of hay thats going to go unused because my pig's are headed to the bacon house Sunday.

bottom "layer" = bad idea. What you are doing is demanding that your well grown mycelium now make the long trip DOWNWARD to the bottom of another layer of "stuff" all the while using valuable nutrients in order to do so rather than storing up energy for pinning. There is a peak effficiency that you are looking for.



The first peak is when the surface of all of your grain is fully covered. This is the time you want either to spawn another substrate so that you can recharge the mycelium in the shortest amount of time or you want to lay the grain down - even this act will be wasting energy but it can't be helped, you will damage the mycelium and you must let it repair itself and in so doing it uses energy. The only energy you want it expending now is to travel through a low nutrient substrate to near the top - upward, not downward. You risk entrapping conamination, border breaks and fewer flushes with this "sandwich" approach.

Hell, even waiting to flip your grow into a pinning cycle will diminish the energy of the organism.

Hay tends to have lots of seeds in it, seeds in your substrate are bad things, straw is better but you will need some practice with straw and the more the straw is chopped the better, an inch is good, a half an inch is better, a quarter inch better still. With that sort of density and a decent depth you can get HUGE grows.
 

RetiredMatthebrute

Well-Known Member
so ill pick up some straw and run it through a food processor, add the manure at a 50/50 ratio? then lay the corn down in a black bag in my aluminum pans and then the hay/poo on top of it, wait for it to colonize to the straw then a thin layer of verm and fruit? or forget the thin layer of verm? or just use verm and poo? if hay is better i can get more bang for my buck using it as a bale is around 5 bucks, same price as a small bag of verm and i get 100x the mass.

sorry i feel dense, hope im not coming off that way just trying to make sure i get it 100% so when i go to do my casing i do it right. i want larger yeilds so if i have to trial and error straw i will if it means higher yeilds than vermiculite.
 

RetiredMatthebrute

Well-Known Member
what do you mean

Your growth is highly rhyzomorphic which is a very good sign so early on
is that the "finger" looking things that seems to be reaching to the new kernels?

the jars with the most of this, are they the ones i should use for G2G transfer?
 

MJG420

Well-Known Member
so ill pick up some straw and run it through a food processor, add the manure at a 50/50 ratio? then lay the corn down in a black bag in my aluminum pans and then the hay/poo on top of it, wait for it to colonize to the straw then a thin layer of verm and fruit? or forget the thin layer of verm? or just use verm and poo? if hay is better i can get more bang for my buck using it as a bale is around 5 bucks, same price as a small bag of verm and i get 100x the mass.

sorry i feel dense, hope im not coming off that way just trying to make sure i get it 100% so when i go to do my casing i do it right. i want larger yeilds so if i have to trial and error straw i will if it means higher yeilds than vermiculite.
Great questions my friend.
 

RetiredMatthebrute

Well-Known Member
There are two types of mycelium growth: rhizomorphic, and tomentose. both types are present in every mushroom grow, regardless of strain, species, etc.

Rhizomorphic mycelium is typically where the fruits will pop up from....this is why you always hear the word strong associated with rhizomorphic mycelium.

some substrains that germinate will start off with weak, fluffy, tomentose mycelium growth, but will eventually start to grow rhizomorphic mycelium in generations to come.

This is why people do agar work as well....mainly to separate the strong rhizomorphic growth from the weaker growth, this is called sectoring. This tends to speed up the process of getting a strong rhizomorphic substrain.

you will get the same results eventually if you grow directly from a print, and continue to grow further generations of those.

for example...you get a print, you grow it out, the mycelium is weak, you then take prints of those fruits and do another grow and repeat. eventually you will see much more rhizomorphic growth as time goes on. An agar sectioning speeds this process up.

There is nothing wrong whatsoever if you have rhizomorphic, or tomentose mycelium, pefectly normal....this will not affect potency of your fruits. The only real difference is.

1. rhizomorphic mycelium will colonize at a much faster rate

2. you will have a bigger flush with more rhizomorphic growth.

so of course it is better to have rhizomorphic mycelium, but not the end of the world if you don't.
-srgtm1a-
Mycotopia.net

https://mycotopia.net/forums/faq-frequently-asked-questions/14309-rhizomorphic-fluffy.html
 

canndo

Well-Known Member
so ill pick up some straw and run it through a food processor, add the manure at a 50/50 ratio? then lay the corn down in a black bag in my aluminum pans and then the hay/poo on top of it, wait for it to colonize to the straw then a thin layer of verm and fruit? or forget the thin layer of verm? or just use verm and poo? if hay is better i can get more bang for my buck using it as a bale is around 5 bucks, same price as a small bag of verm and i get 100x the mass.

sorry i feel dense, hope im not coming off that way just trying to make sure i get it 100% so when i go to do my casing i do it right. i want larger yeilds so if i have to trial and error straw i will if it means higher yeilds than vermiculite.

Nope, you are still missing the point. What you are trying to do is increase the mass of mycelium you have. Now consider the proper approach. One first isolates a strain on agar, then puts it in contact with another healthy looking monocaryotic mass so that it has mated. Now you have just a little patch of dychariotic mycelium that is capable of fruiting (yes, you can fruit on agar - you get miniature mushrooms). Then you take a the very least a hyphae or strand of that and put it in your grain. Now you will have many times your original mass growing all over the grain. You can stop here, or, as you wish to do, you will use those kernels as innoculation points in another larger non-sterile substrate like straw or manure or compost. From each of those kernels will grow more mycelium but you want this to be a three dimensional process. If you simply layer your mass substrate over a layer of colonized corn you will be forcing your mycelium to grow slowly upward (or downward). No, what you want to do is to mix your now covered kernels in with your substrate. See to it that each kernel is surrounded by substrate, you want to have your kernels all through, mixed in, with your manure or whathave you. See,this is what I am talking about when I say that PF tek is no good. Those who use this process don't really understand dimentionality and they think in "layers". (not carping at you, just pointing this out).

What you will find if you broadcast kernels throughout your manure is that each kernel will send out mycelium in three dimentions growing through the substrate eventualy meeting up with the mycelium from other kernels and causing your entire substrate to become completely filled with myclium in the shortest amount of time. Had you layered your corn you would have to wait until the mycelium finally all worked it's way upward.


Your 50/50 mix of manure and straw is fine I suppose but I think you are inviting disaster. Were I you I would mix my manure up with vermiculite (coarse) in 70/30 manure/vermiculite. OR, I would abandon the manure and go straight straw, cooked in water at 160 - 180 for an hour or two and then let drain for a few hours. This automaticaly gives you a perfect moisture content. Then I would broadcast your colonized kernels as best I could all throughout the straw. Put all of that in a black plastic bag with a few holes preferably on the sides so light won't get through the holes - and then wait until the straw is fully colonized - maybe 5 to 12 days.

Manure is messy, it is inherently deeply contaminated - although it has some of the most potent nutrients they are not necessary and manure is hell for a beginner to bring to the correct moisture level.


Consider that the reason folks use vermiculite in their substrate is to deal with water issues, but what you are doing is diluting that nutrient with something that offers nothing save moisture and make your substrate more air permiable. So why not just go with straight straw and save yourself all sorts of problems.


If you will allow me to preach, everyone seems to want to make these exotic mixtures of this and that, manure, straw,coir, coffee grounds and the like. If you understand the mushroom you come to realize that because it is a primary and secondary decomposer, it will eat anything and most times additives are simply a waste of time.

The mycelum wants a degree of nutrient - but it can extract what it needs from almost anything. It wants a rather exact content of water, it needs the substrate to be such that it doesn't have to try too hard to invade that substrate with it's hyphae and it needs some way of exhaling co2 and inhaling oxygen. The mycelium will transport nutrient from one place to another - radioactive tracers have shown that nutrient from the bottom of a grow will be transported all the way to the fruit. Oxygen will travel as well but the more ways you can offer your mycelium what it needs the faster it will grow.

The simpler you make things the more your mushroom will like growing for you. The fact that manure, leached or not will become a sodden mass means that you will encourage contamination and actually create anaerobic conditions within your substrate structure. Those conditions will promote all sorts of contamination and it will slow down the mycelium.


If I have a species that requires manure based substrates I will always compost first. Composting will bring beneficial microbes out of the woodwork and it will create more basic nutrient that the mushroom enjoys
but I will only do that for secondary decomposers - those that are on top of the decomposition cycle. P. Cubensis is not one of those, it is just as happy working off of primary substrates such as straw. Now what is manure? it is the dead and live bodies of microorganisms and partly digested grasses and grains. that being the case, why bother with it as you can give your mushroom undigested straw and or grain just as easily.


Now, the secret to high yields has little to do with exotic mixtures and everything to do with timing. Your pinning strategy will be the primary driver to high yields. What you are attempting to do is to have the greatest mass of mycelium you can have - in the shortest amount of time because each hour an already established bit of mycelium continues to feed off of it's little bit of nutrient, the more of that "power", that nutrient, is being lost simply to the metabolism of the organism.


Say I lay out a bed of colonized grain but I keep that bed in the dark for three weeks before I case it and fruit it, I will have a sparse yield because the mycelium has been spending it's time and energy breaking down the substrate and consoldidating it's hold on the grow. 80 percent of your entire yield will come from your first two flushes so the better your first flush the bigger your oveall yield will be. Remember also that your second flush is already growing even as your first flush is getting ready to be picked.


Proper timing dictates that your mycelium just barely be finished expanding to all the area where there is nutrient - and then, very quickly, be set to pin.

PF tek does not do this, it depends upon the mushrooms aging cycle to trigger fruiting. If the mycelium is old enough it will begin to fruit regardless of the situation (even if there is little or no light). PF waits for that cake to be super saturated with mycelium - in fact, some suggest that "just to be on the safe side" one wait even longer - so that any spots in the middle of the cake be fully engulfed as well - all the while the already established mycelium is getting old, and using up the nutrient it is in contact with. In effect, a pf cake is half dead before it will yield it's first flush. What you want is for everything to be at the very peak of freshness as you are triggering your fruiting.
 

canndo

Well-Known Member
what do you mean



is that the "finger" looking things that seems to be reaching to the new kernels?

the jars with the most of this, are they the ones i should use for G2G transfer?

Those finger things tend to indicate vigor, they tend to indicate a dicharyotic mass (though monocharyotic mycelium can be rhyzomorphic as well), you will find that the majority of primordia eminate from the ropey, rhyzomorph, with the length of those "fingers" covered in tiny ultra white "knots" that will turn to pins and then into mushrooms. Yes the ropey stuff is the best to transplant or to propagate from.
 

RetiredMatthebrute

Well-Known Member
thanks for taking the time to explain all that....as always much appreciated....

actually works out for me anyways as i would rather just deal with straw anyways than try and work with poo.

will head out and grab a bale of straw tomorow...

do you think putting the straw in a food processor is a good idea or just cut it up by hand into 1 inch pieces?

BTW that post you just made explained alot...i think i can now move on to casing with a little more assurance.
 

canndo

Well-Known Member
thanks for taking the time to explain all that....as always much appreciated....

actually works out for me anyways as i would rather just deal with straw anyways than try and work with poo.

will head out and grab a bale of straw tomorow...

do you think putting the straw in a food processor is a good idea or just cut it up by hand into 1 inch pieces?

BTW that post you just made explained alot...i think i can now move on to casing with a little more assurance.

First, make sure that straw is CLEAN - the stuff that has been left out in the rain and has rotted or turned grey or black will not work.

There are several reasons for shredding straw. The first is to get inside of that waxy surface as the waxy outer layer will prohibit the straw from absorbing the right amount of water. The second is that straw is not as nutritious as other substrates. It is a fraction as nutritous as grains, especially rye but you can compensate for that - by compressing the straw so there is more to it in a given container. The finer you make the straw the more you can condense it and the more you can condense it the faster your mycelium will run through it and the more nutrient is available to the mycelium.


So chop it up. I don't know how much you are doing but cutting it with scissors is nuts. I don't know how well your blender works but you can try. you can also try putting straw into a trash barrel and putting a weed whacker in there. Maybe you know someone with an electric or gas powered shredder.


Now don't forget the drill when it comes to straw, submerge it ALL in a large amount of water and soak it at 160 - 180 degrees for several hours, then let it drain - you MUST do your mixing on the same day, no shining it on in favor of a bowl. As soon as your temperature drops to about 90 degrees, mix your spawn into the straw on a clean table top and put it into your container, push it down as hard as you possibly can and the deeper the container the better (up until about 12 inches). Leave room at the top for your casing.

One last thing, don't economize on the heat or water - do not reuse your water, after two batches that water becomes toxic to just about everything - it will kill grass, weeds and I think bugs as well, but straw pasteurized in that water will never let anything grow, including your mycelium. I play it safe and don't reuse the water even once. My shaggy mane crop will not tolerate even a little of that over steeped juice.

You might want to keep some of the straw steep, it works well instead of regular water when you cook grain and it is a nice additive to agar as well.
 

RetiredMatthebrute

Well-Known Member
you have lost me on the not re using the water thing.

are you saying once i fill my pot up with my chopped up straw and water and pasturize it, to drain it and discard the excess water?
 

polyarcturus

Well-Known Member
you have lost me on the not re using the water thing.

are you saying once i fill my pot up with my chopped up straw and water and pasteurize it, to drain it and discard the excess water?
yes. except if your using it for an agar mix or grain soak where it will be sterilized completely in the PC.
 

RetiredMatthebrute

Well-Known Member
im interested in agar..dont think right now is the time to learn it but still interested.

do you just PC the water you mix in with the agar or do you PC the already mixed agar?
 

canndo

Well-Known Member
Poly has it - don't reuse the water. The very first time I experimented with straw I ran through a whole bail, I used the same water throughout - my first two bags came out beautiful all the rest wound up being a slimy disgusting mess - I had no idea what I had done wrong but chalked it up to unclean conditions so I went ahead, chopped up another BAIL of straw and put it a portion at a time back into a 55 gallon drum - sure enough, my first two bags worked out perfectly and the rest was evil smelling muck. It was only then that I realized that it was something accumulating in the boiling (steeping) water. I don't want you to make the same mistake.
 

polyarcturus

Well-Known Member
im interested in agar..dont think right now is the time to learn it but still interested.

do you just PC the water you mix in with the agar or do you PC the already mixed agar?
its easy as 123. not much more difficult than grain and G2g

look in my thread i go over it. agar agar, honey and potato flakes. mix well. 2 table spoon will fill my small jars perfect. innoc via, tissue from inside fruit, piece of grain, spore solution, dry spores. let it colonize and use that shit. most of the time i just fill colonized agar with sterile popcorn after im done using it.
 

canndo

Well-Known Member
im interested in agar..dont think right now is the time to learn it but still interested.

do you just PC the water you mix in with the agar or do you PC the already mixed agar?
While agar methods are clearly the best for this sort of work, you do need a hood or a box and it adds a new level of complexity that you really don't need yet. Again as Poly says, your using straw steep in your agar will greatly help your grow especially if you intend to grow on straw - there is something about excecising your mycelium by exposing it to the final element of your grow early on. If you intend to grow on corn, try steeping a bit of corn and using that water instead of distilled, if you intend to grow on coir, boil a bit of coir in water and use that in your agar, the same goes with manure - only a tiny bit, but what it does it pre-adapt your organism to do well in it's final home.

This however is very advanced stuff, don't let what I say here trouble you, its just a trick for very advanced users - oh, and the inclusion of such steep or stock will help aleviate scescnce (sp). The tendency for mycelium to sector, or become old as all mycelium eventualy will. If you force it to use enzymes that it usually doesn't need because it grows on some nutrient where it is unnecessary the mycelium will begin to grow weak and won't have the same vigor it originaly had. If you are taking clones from clones from clones and you always grow on the same medium eventually your mycelium will get old and finally be unable to fruit. In many cases the first sign of this is that your fruit will no longer produce spores - or they will be albinos - while this is wonderful in the short term, your preciously isolated stock is now sick and subject to disease or grow feeble. Feeding it a sequential variety of different types of nutrient will forstall that tendency.
 

RetiredMatthebrute

Well-Known Member
its easy as 123. not much more difficult than grain and G2g

look in my thread i go over it. agar agar, honey and potato flakes. mix well. 2 table spoon will fill my small jars perfect. innoc via, tissue from inside fruit, piece of grain, spore solution, dry spores. let it colonize and use that shit. most of the time i just fill colonized agar with sterile popcorn after im done using it.
well if i do use agar im going to be using petri dishes....or would like to unless theres something wrong with petri dishes that im unaware of.

While agar methods are clearly the best for this sort of work, you do need a hood or a box and it adds a new level of complexity that you really don't need yet. Again as Poly says, your using straw steep in your agar will greatly help your grow especially if you intend to grow on straw - there is something about excecising your mycelium by exposing it to the final element of your grow early on. If you intend to grow on corn, try steeping a bit of corn and using that water instead of distilled, if you intend to grow on coir, boil a bit of coir in water and use that in your agar, the same goes with manure - only a tiny bit, but what it does it pre-adapt your organism to do well in it's final home.

This however is very advanced stuff, don't let what I say here trouble you, its just a trick for very advanced users - oh, and the inclusion of such steep or stock will help aleviate scescnce (sp). The tendency for mycelium to sector, or become old as all mycelium eventualy will. If you force it to use enzymes that it usually doesn't need because it grows on some nutrient where it is unnecessary the mycelium will begin to grow weak and won't have the same vigor it originaly had. If you are taking clones from clones from clones and you always grow on the same medium eventually your mycelium will get old and finally be unable to fruit. In many cases the first sign of this is that your fruit will no longer produce spores - or they will be albinos - while this is wonderful in the short term, your preciously isolated stock is now sick and subject to disease or grow feeble. Feeding it a sequential variety of different types of nutrient will forstall that tendency.
i understand the bold part completely, the other part i partially understand.
 

RetiredMatthebrute

Well-Known Member
either way i dont want to get too advanced yet, still learning and i feel i need to get my first grow under my belt before i move onto bigger and better teks...

i do plan on picking up a bail of straw tomorow and sending it a little at a time through the food processor, finely chopping it up......then i will make a straw/popcorn cake and let that colonize.

thoughts on trying to fruit a small amount of sub and verm in a small area to see what happens?? like a micro FC?
 

polyarcturus

Well-Known Member
small jars a reusable, glass petri dishes are expensive and plastic ones require you make a special agar mix that is pourable therefore more prone to contamination.
as for fruiting something small, just mix it like 50/50 ration or even a 60/40 or 70/30(spawn to "bulk" sub ratio) let it colonize for a few day put in the FC, wait a few days for pins then case.
 

technical dan

Active Member
I got a couple tubs for an incubator and its sitting on top of my cab with the water at 77 deg F and the inside sitting right around 74 deg F so that should speed things up a bit. The lights in the cab are on for 18 hours a day right now but I think I am going to start a 12/12 solo cup run in there once I move the current seedling out. Will the dark period and subsequent cooling/ inconsistent temp of incubation chamber negatively affect the mycelium or would it just be a bit slower due to the average temp being lower?

Canndo, poly do either of you (or anyone else) have experience with ethanol extracts? I have been reading various methods and procedures for doing the extraction some from mushrooms/ fruit bodies and one by Adam Gottlieb (1976) where he used LC and then extracted from the growth in the culture rather than fruiting. Could I fruit and then extract from the mycelium or would the vast majority of the psilocybin and psilocin have been transferred into the fruits? Any idea whether this be an effective, impossible, or impractical?

If interested there are a few procedures posted here:
http://forums.lycaeum.org/index.php?topic=26844.0 including parts of Adam Gottlieb which can be goggled for the complete text.
 
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