aCiDjEsUs
Well-Known Member
Poly dude that's some serious equipment!! He only need to cut up some dry straw haha or is that straw that hard?
My first class with the golden teacher
- Thread starter RetiredMatthebrute
- Start date
RetiredMatthebrute
Well-Known Member
its not bad at first...after about 1/2 a wafer of straw though.....
i ought to just get one of these
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Weed-Eater-19-Hedge-Trimmer/17155394
i ought to just get one of these
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Weed-Eater-19-Hedge-Trimmer/17155394
aCiDjEsUs
Well-Known Member
BUUUHAHAHA There ya go Even Better!!! Hahaha
Thundercat
Well-Known Member
A food processor would prolly be a good way to do it I would think, I don't know that might be to small.
polyarcturus
Well-Known Member
really i was just posting what i had in min hedge shreats shouldnt cost more than 15$ http://www.hardwareandtools.com/Mintcraft-GH6111-Mintcraft-Garden-21In-Hedge-Shears-8313165.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=search&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&gclid=CMrt1ejW_bUCFc9AMgode2QAWQ
probably free if i wantes. buy you want them sharp so new would be best.
this is what most peeps use is something like this,
http://www.leafblowersdirect.com/Earthwise-BVM21012-Leaf-Blower/p7509.html?utm_source=google shopping&utm_medium=shop portals&utm_campaign=BVM21012&gclid=CMu1rsDW_bUCFaUWMgodSFQAoA
probably free if i wantes. buy you want them sharp so new would be best.
this is what most peeps use is something like this,
http://www.leafblowersdirect.com/Earthwise-BVM21012-Leaf-Blower/p7509.html?utm_source=google shopping&utm_medium=shop portals&utm_campaign=BVM21012&gclid=CMu1rsDW_bUCFaUWMgodSFQAoA
Javadog
Well-Known Member
"i thought that once the mycelium has completely clonized the straw i could just set it out to fruit as is???"
Yes, a fully colonized substrate is fully contam resistant. Otherwise all FCs would
have to be sterile and have HEPA filtered FAE.
I am very late to this very active thread.
I only skimmed over the whole of it....I saw a few somewhat less
common approaches, but nothing to take exception with.
I am only here to help, and you seem to be rocking here.
:0)
While my own half pint jars (my PF-Tek jars) are sitting idle, and
have been for a while, I still like to recommend the PF-Tek, together
with a SGFC, for new cultivators to try, as these approaches are
the most forgiving. A verm-rolled BRF cake can be drenched without
stalling a flush, a SGFC make misting and fanning less critical, etc.
I look forward to bouncing these things around with you all.
Take care,
JD
Yes, a fully colonized substrate is fully contam resistant. Otherwise all FCs would
have to be sterile and have HEPA filtered FAE.
I am very late to this very active thread.
I only skimmed over the whole of it....I saw a few somewhat less
common approaches, but nothing to take exception with.
I am only here to help, and you seem to be rocking here.
:0)
While my own half pint jars (my PF-Tek jars) are sitting idle, and
have been for a while, I still like to recommend the PF-Tek, together
with a SGFC, for new cultivators to try, as these approaches are
the most forgiving. A verm-rolled BRF cake can be drenched without
stalling a flush, a SGFC make misting and fanning less critical, etc.
I look forward to bouncing these things around with you all.
Take care,
JD
RetiredMatthebrute
Well-Known Member
i tried the food processor, works but the straw has to be wet and it still dosent work great....15 min og holding down the bitton to get 1 cup of processed straw is a bit overkill imho...i like that leaf blower/leaf shredder polly linked but not sure if it would efficiently do the trick since its made for leaves and straw is a little more rugged that leaves...maybe skip the electric style on go for the gas....prob a weedwacker and a 55 gal drum would work well too.
welcome aboard. yeah some of the teks here arent of the norm i guess....most of the reason is my own misunderstanding of things.....seems like as soon as i (think) I have a grasp on things i get told that im doing it wrong...
i am still pretty curious as to what im supposed to be doing with this straw/corn sub once its fully colonized....am i supposed to be casing it with something? or do i fruit it as is?
once its fully colonized, pasturized vermiculite to field capacity 1/2" layer on top? sorry im just confused right now.....
RetiredMatthebrute
Well-Known Member
ok so i think i get it.....what i did with the straw wasnt casing....it is called "Bulk Spawn" basically "stretching" out my popcorn sub....making a little become "alot" and i still need to "case" them???
will be doing some more researching but would appreciate if someone could point me in the right direction as i plan on fruiting one of my straw "bulk tubs" on sunday and i really need to go into it knowing what im doing (usually helps) of couse i went into this whole project blind as can be anyways lol.
will be doing some more researching but would appreciate if someone could point me in the right direction as i plan on fruiting one of my straw "bulk tubs" on sunday and i really need to go into it knowing what im doing (usually helps) of couse i went into this whole project blind as can be anyways lol.
RetiredMatthebrute
Well-Known Member
http://www.lycaeum.org/mv/mu/_bulk_best.html
heres a link i found...this guy is using peletized wheat straw???
so if i understand correctly i should pick up some peat moss and powdered lime? (already have vermiculite)
mix a 70/30 of peat/verm and then sprinkle some lime? then bring up to FMC and pasturize? then i have a legit casing to put on top of my straw/popcorn "bulk sub"...then let sit until i see rhizomorphic "hyphae"?? (or is hyphea considered rhizomorphic and both really the same thing?)
like.....if you see hyphea...your mycelium is rhizomorphic...kinda thing? still trying to understand alot of these terms and what they mean so bear with me...sorry for the repeated questions if they are repeated.
anyways....does this seem about right?? i was under the impression that i was casing my substrate with the straw and when it was done colonizing i was ready to fruit..
heres a link i found...this guy is using peletized wheat straw???
so if i understand correctly i should pick up some peat moss and powdered lime? (already have vermiculite)
mix a 70/30 of peat/verm and then sprinkle some lime? then bring up to FMC and pasturize? then i have a legit casing to put on top of my straw/popcorn "bulk sub"...then let sit until i see rhizomorphic "hyphae"?? (or is hyphea considered rhizomorphic and both really the same thing?)
like.....if you see hyphea...your mycelium is rhizomorphic...kinda thing? still trying to understand alot of these terms and what they mean so bear with me...sorry for the repeated questions if they are repeated.
anyways....does this seem about right?? i was under the impression that i was casing my substrate with the straw and when it was done colonizing i was ready to fruit..
polyarcturus
Well-Known Member
electric blower works, some people do use a weedwacker. but the electric blower does work well.
strawcorn sub goes into a tub or has to top of the bag cut off to expose it to fruiting conditions. then when you see pins, you put your casing layer on. pasteurized potting soil works fine, straight verm, more straw or straw and verm mixed, EWC ect.
rhizomorphic is more like a condition condition of mycelium growth, hyphae are invisible to the eye adn are what inter connect the individual fiungi cells, both to each other and the substrate.
when you substrate is colonized, you expose it to fruiting conditions, once it begins to pin, you case.
strawcorn sub goes into a tub or has to top of the bag cut off to expose it to fruiting conditions. then when you see pins, you put your casing layer on. pasteurized potting soil works fine, straight verm, more straw or straw and verm mixed, EWC ect.
rhizomorphic is more like a condition condition of mycelium growth, hyphae are invisible to the eye adn are what inter connect the individual fiungi cells, both to each other and the substrate.
when you substrate is colonized, you expose it to fruiting conditions, once it begins to pin, you case.
polyarcturus
Well-Known Member
avoid lime in mycology mushrooms dont like a lot of MG. most people use oyster shell or gypsum to buffer their medias pH but i recommend staying away from anything you will have to pH.
canndo
Well-Known Member
You got to CASE it next.
canndo
Well-Known Member
Look for a mulching leaf blower
http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&keywords=leaf vacuum mulcher&page=1&rh=i:aps,k:leaf vacuum mulcher
Or, if you are serious, use one of these
http://www.chippersdirect.com/Stanley-CH2-Chipper-Shredder/p8830.html?utm_source=pg&utm_medium=paid portals
canndo
Well-Known Member
most of the lime products have magnesium in them, mushrooms don't like much magnesium.
Javadog
Well-Known Member
There is a lot to impart here, and we will do this over time, but let's start with
casing soil and layers.
First, cubes do not need a casing layer to fruit.
This being said, I still like to use them because the are good moisture banks
and they protect the sub from drying out in my dry area.
The classic casing soil is "50/50+". This is 50% verm plus 50% peat moss with
hydrated lime (the stuff that burns) and gypsum added. The lime is a fast acting
pH lifter and the gypsum plays the role of buffer, helping maintain the higher pH.
The fact is that the fungi do not really love the high pH all that much,
but contaminants like it even less and they do not have the foothold of
strong spawn to start from.
A casing soil is designed to be less (or non) nutritious. The idea is that when the
fungi runs into it, it is stimulated to reproduce by the change.
Regarding how much lime to add, years ago now Uncle Rico at The Shroomery
laid this one on me: for each cup of peat moss, one teaspoon of lime and one
Tablespoon of gypsum.
If you choose not to case, then you should feel free to let the sub begin pinning
before introducing it to fruiting conditions. This can help a good first flush pinset form.
One thing that I did see up-thread was the suggestion of using plain verm as
a casing soil. This is not really a casing layer per se, as verm is nutritious to
the fungi and will be consumed like the sub was. This tek works fine, and was
called the "rez effect" some time past. (as in "reservoir", as the verm hold water well).
What sort of fruiting chamber are you going to use?
Good luck,
JD
casing soil and layers.
First, cubes do not need a casing layer to fruit.
This being said, I still like to use them because the are good moisture banks
and they protect the sub from drying out in my dry area.
The classic casing soil is "50/50+". This is 50% verm plus 50% peat moss with
hydrated lime (the stuff that burns) and gypsum added. The lime is a fast acting
pH lifter and the gypsum plays the role of buffer, helping maintain the higher pH.
The fact is that the fungi do not really love the high pH all that much,
but contaminants like it even less and they do not have the foothold of
strong spawn to start from.
A casing soil is designed to be less (or non) nutritious. The idea is that when the
fungi runs into it, it is stimulated to reproduce by the change.
Regarding how much lime to add, years ago now Uncle Rico at The Shroomery
laid this one on me: for each cup of peat moss, one teaspoon of lime and one
Tablespoon of gypsum.
If you choose not to case, then you should feel free to let the sub begin pinning
before introducing it to fruiting conditions. This can help a good first flush pinset form.
One thing that I did see up-thread was the suggestion of using plain verm as
a casing soil. This is not really a casing layer per se, as verm is nutritious to
the fungi and will be consumed like the sub was. This tek works fine, and was
called the "rez effect" some time past. (as in "reservoir", as the verm hold water well).
What sort of fruiting chamber are you going to use?
Good luck,
JD
canndo
Well-Known Member
Try bringing a 70/30 vermiculite sifted coir to field moisture, put it in an oven at 160 degrees until the center gets to that temp and then one more hour, let it cool off and put about fan inch on top of your fully colonized straw. You might want to sweeten it with a bit of gypsum but you don't really need that until you start refining your work or if you us the highly acidic spagnum peat instead of coir.
canndo
Well-Known Member
Here is the first time we have gone in different directions. If you see pins, it is too late to case and you will interupt the cycle. You want to case within a day or so of total coverage of your substrate, you don't want to see primordia until you are ready, and that should be after your substrate is fully involved AND your that last inch or so of casing is growing through to the very very last little bit, where you see maybe 10 or 20 percent coverage on top of your casing. Then, and only then do you initiate your pinning strategy.
polyarcturus
Well-Known Member
so case as soon as substrate goes into fruiting chamber case? i worry that my mycelium will just jump to growing on the casing from casing too early.
canndo
Well-Known Member
No, they don't "need" casing to fruit, but in order to orchestrate your pinning strategy you need to case.
In order to get the maximum yield in the first three flushes you need to case.
If you want even pinsets and consistent coverage for the crucial flushes then you case and you riffle as well.
Tough to get this sort of distribution consistently without casing.
The point is to control conditions and initiate pinning on your own terms, not wait until the mushroom is actually pinning out of frustration.
This is why you case.
canndo
Well-Known Member
You WANT it to grow through the casing, to just below the surface - all long before you have altered your co2 content or applied light or changed your temperature.