NEED HE:P FAST WITH CO2 overdose.

dont have pictures yet cause i jus woke up. how the fuck do i fix it. half my crop has droopy leaves. running dwc. pretty sure is co2 od cause it happened overnight
with extra yeat brews i put in

anyone experienced can suggest how to fix this problem

turn off the co2 and vent the room dude, however I really dought that you have too much co2, more likely its something else

I really doubt you can get too much co2 from a yeast brew. maybe not enough bubbles, too much nutes, too warm, root rot?

I'm going to go ahead and say it before someone else does. There is no way in hell you have too much c02 in your room if your only doing yeast/sugar...

Something else is causing this. If I had to guess I'd say your temps are too high as I can see leaf curl all around the edges of your leaves. A classic sign of heat stress.


EDIT: Damnit I guess I didn't get to say it before someone else did. lol

The new Co2 was put over night, its in an enclosed by a 3 by 4 room. Woke up and the fan leaves were drooping. How would you fix the Co2 if thats what it is? What else can do that over night?

Get off the c02 thing man. It's not c02. It's just a coincidence that you added the c02 and started seeing these symptoms. Yeast/sugar provides very low amounts of c02. You could have 10 bottles of yeast/sugar going in there and still probably not be able to get your PPM up to optimum range. lol

Like I said, check your temps.

ateezy said:

dont have pictures yet cause i jus woke up. how the fuck do i fix it. half my crop has droopy leaves. running dwc. pretty sure is co2 od cause it happened overnight
with extra yeat brews i put in

Click to expand...

Not a chance it's co2, you have a number of issues including lack of balanced ferts, way too much yellow in the leaves and tip burns, cupping to name a few.

I would rlush with 50% recommended ferts than feed as per instruction. This will help you figger out the other issues, chance to learn

[FONT=&quot]Solving Marijuana Plan Leaf Curl/Cupping Problems[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]OK rule number #1 when you see this happening is flush with 25% nutrients; use 2 to 3 times the pot size to do this. Flushing means lots of run-off. You use 25% because some elements are not mobile without other elements, so if you have a mag lock up flushing with water won't get the mag out, as it needs nitrogen to be mobile. Your killing your plants with kindness remember they are weeds. Here are more answers for you, you might want to save it for reference later The only time you don't use rule #1 is in the last 2 weeks of flower when bottom leaves stop being used for photosynthesis.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Unless another marijuana grower inspects the damage a true assessment might not be possible. It's hard to tell "exactly" what the culprit is. Unfortunately the “solution” the marijuana grower chooses many times is not the right one.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]A misdiagnosis only serves to make matters worse by promoting further decline.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]The ultimate and correct solution is in the hands of the marijuana grower.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Here are some common problems when marijuana leaves are curling.[/FONT]

1. [FONT=&quot]Too much marijuana fertilizer[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
   The most common cause of marijuana leaf cupping aka leaf margin rolling, leaf margin burn, and leaf tip curl/burn is overzealous use of marijuana plant food. In relationship to factors such as marijuana plant vigour and rate of growth. Leaf burn is often the very first sign of too much marijuana fertilizer.
   A hard, crispy feel to the marijuana leaf frequently occurs as well, as opposed to a soft and cool feel of a happy pot leaf. Back off on the amount and/or frequency of using marijuana fertilizer. Too much marijuana fertilizer can also burn the roots, especially the sensitive root tips, which then creates another set of problems. Note - as soil dries, the concentration of the remaining salts rises further exacerbating the problem. [/FONT]
2. [FONT=&quot]High Heat[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
   The marijuana plant is losing water via it’s leaves faster than what can be replaced by the root system. The marijuana leaf responds by leaf margin cupping or rolling up or down (most times up) in order to conserve moisture. A good example is reflected by the appearance of broad-bladed turf grass on a hot summer day, high noon, with low soil moisture levels - the leaf blade will roll upward/inward with the grass taking on a dull, greyish-green appearance. Upon sunrise when moisture levels have returned to normal, the leaf blade will be flat. Lower the heat in the marijuana grow-op and concentrate on developing a large robust root system. An efficient and effective root system will go a long way to prevent heat induced pot leaf desiccation or marijuana leaf margin curling. One short episode of high heat is enough to permanently disable or destroy leaf tissue and cause a general decline in the leaves affected, which often occurs to leaves found at the top of the cannabis plant. The damaged pot leaf (usually) does not fully recover, no matter what you do. Bummer in the summer. One can only look to new growth for indications that the problem has been corrected.[/FONT]
3. [FONT=&quot]Too much light[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
   Yes, it’s true, you can give your marijuana plant too much light. Cannabis does not receive full sun from sunrise to sunset in its natural state. It is shaded or given reduced light levels because of adjacent plant material, cloudy conditions, rain, dust, twilight periods in the morning and late afternoon, and light intensity changes caused by a change in the seasons. Too much light mainly serves to bleach out and destroy chlorophyll as opposed to causing marijuana leaf cupping, but it often goes hand-in-hand with high heat for indoor marijuana growers. Turn down the time when the lights on in your marijuana grow room. If you're using a 24 hr cycle, turn it down to 20 hrs. Those on 18 - 6 marijuana growth cycle can turn their lights down two or three hours. Too much light can have many adverse effects on marijuana plants. Concentrate on developing/maintaining an efficient and robust root system.[/FONT]
4. [FONT=&quot]Over Watering[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
   For marijuana growers using soil, this practice only serves to weaken the root system by depriving the roots of proper gas exchange. The marijuana plants roots are not getting enough oxygen which creates an anerobic condition inducing root rot and root decline with the end result showing up as leaf stress, stunted growth, and in severe cases, death. Over watering creates a perfect environment for damp-off disease, at, or below the soil line. Many times marijuana growers believe their cannabis plant is not getting enough marijuana fertilizers (which it can't under such adverse conditions), so they add more marijuana fertilizers. Making the problem worst. Not better. Often problem 1 and 4 go together. Too much marijuana fertilizer combined with too much water. Creating plenty of marijuana plant problems.[/FONT]
5. [FONT=&quot]Not Enough Water[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
   Not only is the marijuana plant now stressed due to a low supply of adequate moisture, but carbohydrate production has been greatly compromised (screwed up). Step up the watering frequency, and if need be, organic marijuana growers may need to water from the bottom up until moisture levels reach a norm throughout the medium. One of the best methods in determining whether a marijuana plant requires watering is lifting the pots. The pots should be light to lift before a water session. After watering the marijuana plants lift the pots to get an understanding how heavy they've become fully watered. If the pot feels light to the lift - it’s time to water. Don’t wait until the soil pulls away from the side of the pot before watering. And of course, leach, once in a while to get rid of excess salts. These are the five most common problems marijuana growers encounter when growing cannabis. Correcting the problems early will save the marijuana plants, but may reduce overall yield. With practice and experience these problems are easily overcome which will then enable the marijuana grower to produce fantastic marijuana plants. With heavy yields.[/FONT]

...well my grow consist of 5 plants in one 20 gallon tote. they are ALL using the same nutrients and only half of the plants are droopy. theyve been in ph 5.7 give or take and are in 6th week of flowewring. \
there is lots of fans blowing in there at night when the doors are closed but not a lot of fresh air going in night. my grow has been well to me since i started this op, but till today half the side of my crop is droopy. i have 4 air stones in there and the roots are healty white. last time i fed them was about two days ago. gonna start my flushing period.

Sorry if i sound rude. i am very worried right now. Everything was going so great and to wake up to something unknown sucks!

does anyone have apic of co2 overdose in late flowering? i cant seem to find one online.

ohh well i guess if id doesnt get any better should i jus cut off all the bad fan leaves and continue flushing?

Im thinking i should just cut off all the affected fan leaves, hopefully this does not ruin the rest of my flowering period?

High temps, root aphids, root rot the list of possibilities is endless. But it does not include Co2 overdose.... Nute burn is a definite though...
Also on the list, lack of research and knowledge....which in the end is 'priceless'...

ateezy said:

does anyone have apic of co2 overdose in late flowering? i cant seem to find one online.

Click to expand...

Its not a CO2 over dose dude thats for sure. Plants can take a shit load of co2. Heres a article from As Dr. ED AKA Ed Rosenthal

Releasing a full container of carbon dioxide into a sealed grow set-up will kill all mites and insects. But, don't be in the room while the CO2 is being released! It would be enough to KILL YOU! I have seen this technique of bringing the CO2 to 10,000 ppm for 15 minutes to kill all pests. You must vent out the CO2 before entering the room

Plants can take 10,000 PPM of Co2 and your homemade Co2 isnt your problem.

Banditt said:

Get off the c02 thing man. It's not c02. It's just a coincidence that you added the c02 and started seeing these symptoms. Yeast/sugar provides very low amounts of c02. You could have 10 bottles of yeast/sugar going in there and still probably not be able to get your PPM up to optimum range. lol

Like I said, check your temps.

Click to expand...

Agree with your Co2 info and about his temps. And may I add Co2 concentrations are actually higher indoors than outdoors by about 3 fold on average. Study the basics because there are no magical ways to improve a grow.

ateezy said:

Im thinking i should just cut off all the affected fan leaves, hopefully this does not ruin the rest of my flowering period?

Click to expand...

What do you hope to accomplish by cutting off the leaves? Out of sight out of mind? It's certainly not going to help.

I would read through woodsmaneh's post and try to figure out which one of those scenarios is the likely culprit in your situation, and fix it. Otherwise, post all the info about your grow here, temps, feedings, lighting, all the relevant info etc, and maybe someone will be able to spoon feed you an answer.

all very nice info. im starting to believe my dwc water level may gone too high. and tthere might not be enough airstones in it. i think half my fan leaves are dead almost. should i just cut em off. im six weeks into flowering.

ateezy said:

all very nice info. im starting to believe my dwc water level may gone too high. and tthere might not be enough airstones in it. i think half my fan leaves are dead almost. should i just cut em off. im six weeks into flowering.

Click to expand...

Short and simple...No

Even damaged leaves can carry out photosynthesis at some capacity. You'll only stress it more by cutting the leaves.

If the leaves have any green on them leave them alone......your plants are stressed don't stress them more by cutting fan leaves/Do you have enough bubbles?....are some of your roots blocking the airstone??? Looks like they are drowning to me.......but thats just an observation...

I had the sudden onset of wilt once before, and as mentioned above it was root aphids chowing on root rot. I highly recommend getting dutchmaster ZONE. From what ive gathered from reading and doing my own dwc, you need at least one of these: chiller, bene bacteria tea, Zone (or a product like it). low ppm and tons of bubbles help out too.