New room advice

Snowman1

Active Member
Hey guys long time lurker first time poster. I have been working on my new plans for a permanent grow room in my basement. What I have to work with is essentially a 13' x 9.5' area with 7.5' ceilings and 2 basement sized windows in the back left corner. Ideally I would like to have 2 large adjust-a-wings running 1000w's each in my flower room, a 600w in veg and a 400w for mother plants. My concern is the heat from the 1kw lights but I do like the lumens :). So I'm looking for some help with this design. I will be making this as professional looking as possible in all aspects.

My basement pretty much stays between 63-65* all year long so I will be pulling the ambient basement air for cooling then just extracting out of the windows. Im hoping the CFMs with the Hyperfans will be sufficient to keep the temps in line. The intake fans will be mounted low with filters as well as the seedling to veg fan. I tried to place them so the fresh cool air is pulled through/over the plants then out as best as possible. Feel free to recommend any changes to this layout including room sizes. I tried to draw it to scale as best I could including isles for maneuvering around the plants. This is purely in planning phase right now. I do have ideas for an air-cooled setup if needed but I don't really want to run all the ducting and the lumen losses from the glass. Im not looking to install a mini split or run a sealed room with co2. Thanks

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GrayDizzle

Active Member
I'm not experienced in this area by any means, but I'll pass along what I've learned recently.
This is essentially the same exact design my buddy had in his basement room. Similar ambient temperatures, everything. Only difference is he doesn't divide his mother/veg space.
Running t5 for veg and 1200w hps in flower, he was still cranking temps up to ~95°. He had to put in a false wall just inside the door and installed a 12k btu window ac unit with a condensation collector plate and ran a drain hose to the floor drain/sump pump. Said the unit was supposedly something that wouldn't drip but better safe than sorry. (I'm also not sure exactly how his ventilation system is rigged up, but I know it was beastly equipment.. But I don't think he was venting 24/7 either)

Hope this helps. Personally, I'd roll with your plan and see how it goes, but don't be surprised if you start getting warm.
 

Snowman1

Active Member
Dam 95 yeah thats why I posted this because after all the reading and searching I still wasn't sure its enough. Hmm I'm going to finish up the air cooled drawings I'm putting together. With that I'm thinking 8" Raptors but same essential plan only difference being independent light intake/exhaust and independent room intake/exhaust.
 

GrayDizzle

Active Member
Dam 95 yeah thats why I posted this because after all the reading and searching I still wasn't sure its enough. Hmm I'm going to finish up the air cooled drawings I'm putting together. With that I'm thinking 8" Raptors but same essential plan only difference being independent light intake/exhaust and independent room intake/exhaust.
That might make all the difference. He never had cooled hoods, either. Like I said I don't think he was venting constantly and that would have been my first thing to change, but some people already know everything so giving them tips/advice is pointless. He was one of these people. Lol so I just let him tell me how it had to be ;)
 

Craig1969SS

Well-Known Member
I have 2-1000 watt lights in open reflectors in a 10x11 bedroom and it's not vented. A window unit is capable of keeping the room temps in line. I have 3 fans moving a lot of air, bottom middle and top. When you start pulling outside air in, even if you are venting it right back outside you'll need to put a hepa filter on the incoming air. Try as you might it's awfully hard to make it airtight 100% of the time. Keep your initial design flexible because I promise you once you get going and start tending to your ladies you'll want to change it, guaranteed .
 

Snowman1

Active Member
Cool thanks for the help guys.

What BTU a/c are you running? Thats not bad 2 1k's in a non vented room. Maybe this will just have to be a trail and error thing to feel out the space. If so I would run the wing reflectors first and see if its manageable. Then if its just too hot just swap reflectors for air cooleds and have the extra expense and work of installing the ducting and fans. I see where your saying leave the design flexible lol.
 

qballizhere

Well-Known Member
Cool thanks for the help guys.

What BTU a/c are you running? Thats not bad 2 1k's in a non vented room. Maybe this will just have to be a trail and error thing to feel out the space. If so I would run the wing reflectors first and see if its manageable. Then if its just too hot just swap reflectors for air cooleds and have the extra expense and work of installing the ducting and fans. I see where your saying leave the design flexible lol.
To save some time tial and effort and money if you want to run open hoods you will need 6k btu per 1000w light if you want to run vented hoods it drops about half but loose 10% of light from the glass. A general rule is a 1000w light will raise the temp 20 degrees. You plan on having over 3000 watts of light total.
If you divide reach room off you will be buying 3x the equipment each room will have to have ac/ ventilation.
Have 2 rooms one veg and one flower.
Also once you connect a carbon scrubber to a fan you will loose 20% of the cfm.
You don't have to install a mini split, a window shaker will work or a portable if it is big enough. The reason people always say to get a mini split is they are more efficient and cost less to operate.
To me if you are going to be running an a/c you are throwing money away when you vent air outside.
 

Snowman1

Active Member
To save some time tial and effort and money if you want to run open hoods you will need 6k btu per 1000w light if you want to run vented hoods it drops about half but loose 10% of light from the glass. A general rule is a 1000w light will raise the temp 20 degrees. You plan on having over 3000 watts of light total.
If you divide reach room off you will be buying 3x the equipment each room will have to have ac/ ventilation.
Have 2 rooms one veg and one flower.
Also once you connect a carbon scrubber to a fan you will loose 20% of the cfm.
You don't have to install a mini split, a window shaker will work or a portable if it is big enough. The reason people always say to get a mini split is they are more efficient and cost less to operate.
To me if you are going to be running an a/c you are throwing money away when you vent air outside.
Cool thanks for the info. In reality I don't necessarily have to vent and can run a sealed room, just the windows are right there so its easy. When I said no mini splits I was thinking of the a/c expense in general (window or mini split), the wattage usage for the a/c then the c02 costs. Since both windows were right there in the corner that was plan A just to vent outside with a scrubber and have the fan intakes using the ambient basement air. At the end of the day if I need to run any a/c to be able to control temps then I need to, no way around it. I didn't realize the 1k's raise the room temps that much.

I was showing these to my brother and he said the same thing about combining the veg/seedling room. I just did it as a way to isolate the mother plants but I guess they will be using the same light schedule and it saves me from putting up another wall! So combining the two rooms would be fine?

If you were to have this same 13' x 9.5' layout, what you your design be?
 

qballizhere

Well-Known Member
Cool thanks for the info. In reality I don't necessarily have to vent and can run a sealed room, just the windows are right there so its easy. When I said no mini splits I was thinking of the a/c expense in general (window or mini split), the wattage usage for the a/c then the c02 costs. Since both windows were right there in the corner that was plan A just to vent outside with a scrubber and have the fan intakes using the ambient basement air. At the end of the day if I need to run any a/c to be able to control temps then I need to, no way around it. I didn't realize the 1k's raise the room temps that much.

I was showing these to my brother and he said the same thing about combining the veg/seedling room. I just did it as a way to isolate the mother plants but I guess they will be using the same light schedule and it saves me from putting up another wall! So combining the two rooms would be fine?

If you were to have this same 13' x 9.5' layout, what you your design be?
It really depends on the style of growing you do and what you are trying to accomplish.
I run perpetual I would do a flower room 13x5 and a veg room 13x4......... in the flower room do 3 3x4 areas with 1000 w DE and in the veg room 2 3x3 areas with 600 watt DE and 1 more for the moms the cloning area will take a 2x2 shelf use a t5 for the cloner
With that you can set up a perpetual system and have a harvest monthly. I suggest 3x4 because you dont need access to 4 sides and you can reach across 3' just have a 18" isle between the rows to walk down.

I can understand the upfront cost of the mini split but there is a big difference once you go to one you will not want to go back to a window shaker. You can get a 18k btu mini split for $1000 and install it yourself the diy kits are easy.
Adding co2 is not that expensive you dont have to have a controller to start just put it on a timer and use it 6 or 8 hours of the 12 hour cycle here is a calculator to figure out the timing https://www.hydroponics.net/learn/co2_calculator.php
Just need the regulator a tank and a timer $275 for everything.
 

Snowman1

Active Member
Wow thanks yeah I like the 2 room design like that, im going to draw that up. I like the perpetual grow, I think it would be more manageable during harvest time too. With a setup like you mentioned would an 18k mini split would cut it or would I need to go bigger?
 

qballizhere

Well-Known Member
Wow thanks yeah I like the 2 room design like that, im going to draw that up. I like the perpetual grow, I think it would be more manageable during harvest time too. With a setup like you mentioned would an 18k mini split would cut it or would I need to go bigger?
An 18k btu can handle 3 1000w lights then have a light proof ventilation into the veg room and fans blowing around.
you could upgrade it to a 24k btu and get a dual head unit and have 18K in the flower and 6K in the veg you can spend the money on the mini split or spend the money in fans and labor setting up ventilation.
Also look into a dehumidifier for the flower room you will need one.
IMO once you are running 2 1000w hps/de lights or more and ac is required its best to seal up the room. Unless you are using cob leds and its a different conversation.
 

Pulpit_

Well-Known Member
I just finished a 10ft x 13 ft flower room in my basement, my basement is at the same temperature as yourself. Using Hyper fan also. I decided to go with COB’s CXB3590 (1800 watts) to cover a 6 ft x 8 ft table. You may want to think about spending more money upfront using COB's to eliminate the heat. My room only gets to low 70’s temp so I will never need to use an air conditioner, I do use a small heater. My total room is only running 18 amps for lights, hyper fan and heater. I also exhaust to the main part of the basement and also use it as my intake as it keeps the temps up a bit. That’s a ton in electricity savings and not ever needing to use A/C is an extra bonus. Just throwing that out there.
 

Snowman1

Active Member
I just finished a 10ft x 13 ft flower room in my basement, my basement is at the same temperature as yourself. Using Hyper fan also. I decided to go with COB’s CXB3590 (1800 watts) to cover a 6 ft x 8 ft table. You may want to think about spending more money upfront using COB's to eliminate the heat. My room only gets to low 70’s temp so I will never need to use an air conditioner, I do use a small heater. My total room is only running 18 amps for lights, hyper fan and heater. I also exhaust to the main part of the basement and also use it as my intake as it keeps the temps up a bit. That’s a ton in electricity savings and not ever needing to use A/C is an extra bonus. Just throwing that out there.
Wow yeah I was looking at COBs recently and the light heat/electric usage/bulb changes/less ac deff makes me want to look into them even more. I seen a thread on thcfarmer that the dude was running (16) 3590's with an equivalent PAR watts to a 1000w HPS but only pulling 730w at the wall. They were breaking down the array of savings and scaling them over a year and longer, it was pretty eye opening even in a best case scenario situation.
 

Ariesstoner91

New Member
Hello everyone I'm new to the forums and wanted some insight with my build plan I have two spaces one 8x8 flower room and 8x6 veg room
I have 11 foot ceiling. Using cxb3590 20 4K cobs and 4 5k cobs and for the flower room 20 3k cobs and 10 3500k cobs. I'm in need of help choosing between mean well 320-2100 or 240-1400 drivers. Any help would be great and if anyone knows if with setup I can maybe get 60% efficient. Any driver recommendations for my setup?
 

justugh

Well-Known Member
Hello everyone I'm new to the forums and wanted some insight with my build plan I have two spaces one 8x8 flower room and 8x6 veg room
I have 11 foot ceiling. Using cxb3590 20 4K cobs and 4 5k cobs and for the flower room 20 3k cobs and 10 3500k cobs. I'm in need of help choosing between mean well 320-2100 or 240-1400 drivers. Any help would be great and if anyone knows if with setup I can maybe get 60% efficient. Any driver recommendations for my setup?
your best bet is to head to the LED section and post a new thing there

this area is mainly room design (venting wiring evo control materials ideas )......u want the ppl that have done the LED/COB homework where it is a simple DIY project for them
 

visajoe1

Well-Known Member
Hello everyone I'm new to the forums and wanted some insight with my build plan I have two spaces one 8x8 flower room and 8x6 veg room
I have 11 foot ceiling. Using cxb3590 20 4K cobs and 4 5k cobs and for the flower room 20 3k cobs and 10 3500k cobs. I'm in need of help choosing between mean well 320-2100 or 240-1400 drivers. Any help would be great and if anyone knows if with setup I can maybe get 60% efficient. Any driver recommendations for my setup?
Ask this in the led section.
 
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