newbies increase your yields with these tips

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brotherjericho said:
Now that the OP is in defense mode, any answer to this last post of mine?
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dolomite lime wont necessarily raise the ph but keep it in an acceptable range. fun fact dolomite lime does inf act have a ph of 7. so in your case it would lower ph. it is a buffer after all. im not telling them to using bags of lime. using the 1-2 tbs of lime will not raise ph. i hope you can get off the offensive and smoke some pot and chill out.
 
applepoop1984 said:
im not going to respond to anymore trolls however feel free to post any studies preferably from .edu and .gov websites, that support or detract from my list of tips
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Yes because .gov websites will give you good info like how you will become addicted, dependent and mentally ill from use. It must be fact for you right? Its on a .gov website.
 
applepoop1984 said:
yes please let me know what you find disagreeable. iv done my research and have alot of experience with this and alot of data/ studies to back up my claims.
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A lot of studies? That is bad advice on your temps. Day time temperature is optimal at 80 degrees and there needs to be a 10-20 degree drop in night time temperature. Uncle Ben recommends a 20 degree drop in temp thats 60 at night and 80 in the day. The plant needs to metabolize carbs at night time. Google grape horticulture and this Day/Night temp will come up as a huge issue. You will have bigger, firmer buds by having a good 10-20 degree drop in your night temperature.
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sunni said:
no i was talking about the time you were rude to me, on countless amounts of times in posts, never apologized and now you want me to clean up your thread of people being mean to YOU
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it was one post and instead of helping a new grower you chose to be cute instead. i have no ill will towards you nor do i want you to clean up this thread. im going to let my sources speak for themselves and let everyone make up their own mind. the poor kid just wanted some advice on using coco and mixing it with his ocean forest .
 
Impman said:
A lot of studies? That is bad advice on your temps. Day time temperature is optimal at 80 degrees and there needs to be a 10-20 degree drop in night time temperature. Uncle Ben recommends a 20 degree drop in temp thats 60 at night and 80 in the day. The plant needs to metabolize carbs at night time. Google grape horticulture and this Day/Night temp will come up as a huge issue. You will have bigger, firmer buds by having a good 10-20 degree drop in your night temperature.
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id love to hear more about that even though its not a marijuana study. does he say why? i read a study that says an equal day and night temp yielded 18x more thc(thtas exactly what it said) when the temps were even , in the other groups within the study there was 20 degree and a 15 degree deviation i believe and it yielded significantly less
 
kinetic said:
Yes because .gov websites will give you good info like how you will become addicted, dependent and mentally ill from use. It must be fact for you right? Its on a .gov website.
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im talking about the scientific studies. the .gov websites are a treasure trove of agricultural studies
 
Another research group in France has looked at the relationship of potency totemperature.The most recent paper 79 compared four temperature regimes, givenin descending order of potencies found: 75F day, 75F night (highest potency); 72Fday, 54F night; 81F day, 81F night; and 90F day, 54F night (lowest concentration of THC). In each, the day period was 16 hours and the night period eight hours.
 
yes of course it says WHY... equal day and night temperatures exist in what climate? where on Earth? In the Emerald Triangle it is hot and dry in the day and cold at night... Guess where the best weed on earth is grown? Why are so many grapes grown on Hill Sides? Do a search
 
Impman said:
yes of course it says WHY... equal day and night temperatures exist in what climate? where on Earth? In the Emerald Triangle it is hot and dry in the day and cold at night... Guess where the best weed on earth is grown? Why are so many grapes grown on Hill Sides? Do a search
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impman, have i got an article for you:

Taken from High Times' 2006 Seed Guide.


What's The Dif?
Manipulating Plant Performance with Professional Temperature Control.
By Proffessor Potter.


Growers know that ambient temperatures play an important role in plant development.You don't have to have a Ph.D. in plant physiology to understand that temperature determines the rate of bio-chemical reactions,the relative amount of products created by enzymes within plant cells,and those products' transport and allocation in plant tissues.Temperature also influences the production,interaction and activity of plant hormones.Mayb a Ph.D. would help,but even a novice grower can use advanced temperature control to help grow a better crop.Here is the gist of it.

Plants are generally and obviously seen to be best adapted to temperature regimes in which daytime growing temperatures are,on average,higher than nightime growing temperatures.However,for reasons not fully understood-or at least not fully explained here-the difference in day/night temperature influences stem and internodal elongation.Higher relative night temperatures result in plants with shorter internodes (the distance between branches or nodes).By creating night temperature equal to or higher than day temperatures in the growing area,we can grow shorter,more compact plants without sacrificing flower number or size.This method of temperature control is called DIF.

DIF is not an acronym;it's simply short for "difference."DIF is the difference in average day temperature (ADT);in practice,the "average" is usually dropped and the equation is given as DT/NT.If your growing area's temperature is 76F during the day and 70F at night,then the DIF is +6.The term DIF was originally coined to refer to conditions in which the average day temperature is lower than the average night temperature,producing a negative DIF.For example,if DT= 76F and NT= 85F then the DIF= -9F.


Dr. Royal Heins,a distinguished proffessor of horticulture at Michigan State University,coined teh term DIF.He recognized the phenomenon of plant response to higher night than day temperatures;it was an accidental discovery that arose from and experiment being conducted by one of his students.DIF is not a natural phenomenon-in nature,night temperature seldom exceeds day temperature-and was unknown to horticulture until the 1980's.By manipulating it,we can confuse the natural hormone balance in the plant to influence it's growth.

A partial explanation for the DIF phenomenon is that the syntesis or action of a gibberelic acid,which contributes to cell-wall elongation,is inhibited.Similarly,auxin,anot her plant hormone that influences cell elongation,may also be inhibited.Given that plant hormones seldom work alone,it may be a combination of these or other factors.No one really knows for sure,but we are working on it.Whatever the reason,the effect of the DIF means that the plant will grow more compactly with warmer night temperatures than with cooler-than-day night temperatures.


DIF is useful in negating the effect of plant crowding,which,due to the plants response to the far-red light (heat) emitted by it's neighbors,stimulates stem elongation.The influence of radiant far-red light from non-biological sources also cuase stem elongation and "stretching" under lower light conditions.Under high light and otherwise optimal conditions,DIF is used for reducing plant height and promoting denser flower formations.


Some of the first research with the DIF was done with Easter lillies and poinsettias,bot important horticulture crops.In commercial horticulture,it is important to track height and time blooms in order to meet specific target dates for marketing.
The DIF,and variations of it,are now used by professional plant growers around the globe for crops as diverse as corn,sage,tomatoes,impatients and,occasionally,cannabis.


How much should the DIF be?It depends on the crop.Ester lillies show the greatest effect at a DIF of -15 degrees celsius,poinsettias at -12 degrees celsius,and fuchsia at -20 degrees celcius.For some crops,there are tadeoffs;the greatest effect isn't necessarily the most economic or physiologically desirable.Additonally,the DIF change from positive to zero has a more marked effect than from zero to negative.Commercially,the typical maximum DIF is usually no more than -6 degrees celsius and is typically -2 or-3 degrees celsius,since night heating and cooling raises costs.Further,there is a tradeoff between hight control and flowering time,leaf area and fruit development.Reducing the day temperature to accomadate DIF reduces the growth rate in heat-loving plants,and a high negative DIF has been demonstrated to reduce relative flower number and size in several species.


For cannabis,the best DIF for day/night temperatures is probably zero if you grow in a medium-light garden and maintain day temperatures of 80F - that is,day and night time temperatures should be the same.In a low-light garden,a negative DIF may actually have a detrimental effect,as seen in chrysanthemums.A possitive DIF has traditionally been recommended for indoor cannabis horticulture,and it may be desirable for a low-light garden.But if you have free reign to control temperature and you grow in a medium- or high - light garden,you might try a DIF of -2 degrees celsius or -3 degrees celsius.But given the cost and difficulty of heating and cooling,a high-light growing area-especially one pushing the plants with supplementary Co2 and higher day temperatures-might require and alternative.


There is an alternative to using the DIF as a function of DT and NT.This technique doesn't have an official acronym,but in commercial growing it's referred to as "cold-air dump" *CAD).This is when the temperature in the growroom is lowered after sunrise (lights on) to below the NT for one or two hours.The CAD relies on the plant's response to the change between night and day.Stem elongation has been found to be at it's highest rate at the end of the dark period and the beginning of the light period.Cooling during only the first two hours of the day dramatically stem elongation in poinsettias.This technique is usually the most economocal and is used more frequently in commercial flower production.


In a cannabis growing operation that I am familiar with,a more refined version of CAD is being used with excellent results.This "invisible greenhouse" hydroponics operation uses 85 percent of available sunlight,with a supplemental 400-watt high-pressure sodium light and Co2 fetilization up to 1200 ppm.With the high-light and Co2 fertilization,dat temperatures are run at 85F-90F and the growth rate is outstanding.Because of the high DT,raising the NT to create a negative DIF would be uneconomical and would probably stress the plants.In this operation,the day temperature is extended for several hours after dusk,then gradually diminished to a night temperature of 27 degrees celsius.One hour befor "dawn" (lights on),it is raised to 30 degrees celsius and then lowered to 25 degrees celsius to stimulate a CAD,before returning to the day temperature of 30 degrees celsius.The effect is most notable with sativa cultivars,but indica cultivars also do exceptionally well in this system.Internode length is shortened,and the flowering tops are dense and compact but very large.This is only one of the horticultural techniques used in the operation;however,the effect is noticeable and seperable from other influences in this high-yeild system.


Manipulating the day and night temperatures is a proven method in the world of horticulture,has helped reduce the use of chemical growth regulators,and is used to increase productivity and assist with timing crops to the day and hour.The cold-air dump similarly is coming into it's own as a cropping method.So DT/NT or CAD,what's the DIF?For cannabis,either can be used to improve plant performance,depending on what growing parameters are used.It's just a matter of how you do that funky stuff you do."

also i looked up why grapes are grown on hillsides its because the air is colder in the valley and warmer on the hill
 
Grapes are plants. Its not like a said Antelope like fucking cold nights. The best tip for a newb is not listen to anything you wrote cuz thats all the BS in Jorges noGrow bible or Ed Growsnothingatalls book. Get a book on house plant botany or how to grow veggies for dummies. Get a good clone, put clone in walmart potting soil, and water. get a light and a fan. if you feel like getting crazy, get a little 2$ bottle of MG and follow the directions. I say to fuck all with this Detailed instruction for how to grow marijuana. It fucks all newbies up. In Kindergarden you all grew a bad ass bean sprout under a light 8 feet above the whole class and now marijuana all of the sudden has 18 detailed steps?! I CRY BULLSHIT. I submit to all you new growers that growing Marijuana is easy as anything you have ever done.
 
Impman said:
Grapes are plants. Its not like a said Antelope like fucking cold nights. The best tip for a newb is not listen to anything you wrote cuz thats all the BS in Jorges noGrow bible or Ed Growsnothingatalls book. Get a book on house plant botany or how to grow veggies for dummies. Get a good clone, put clone in walmart potting soil, and water. get a light and a fan. if you feel like getting crazy, get a little 2$ bottle of MG and follow the directions. I say to fuck all with this Detailed instruction for how to grow marijuana. It fucks all newbies up. In Kindergarden you all grew a bad ass bean sprout under a light 8 feet above the whole class and now marijuana all of the sudden has 18 detailed steps?! I CRY BULLSHIT. I submit to all you new growers that growing Marijuana is easy as anything you have ever done.
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see previous post. im not debating what plants may or may not be grapes. not all of it is from those books, some one said to get a mel frank book because he is the shiznizz. i happen to have a scribd account with the university. and now i have a mel frank book and almost 50,000 studies papers books documents with the keyword marijuana in the title. anything youd like to discuss id be more than happy to listen to. btw read my above post
 
Grow books are a joke for the most part , nothing but pretty pictures to look at in my opinion . I would rather read Master Gardener studies and field reports to be honest .
I do own a Mel Frank book that was gifted to me back in 1987 but the photos suck ass in it .

Read your plants and use the books under your plants if need be for an even canopy .
 
You can read all the books and articles you want. If your not wiling to use that advice or experiment to advance said information...its all useless and you end up on here looking like an OLD JOKE!....Right U. B.
 
i run FFOF soil WITH 1 cup of dolomite lime (powdered) per 1.5cu' bag, and i also add 1/2 bag of perlite AND great white mycorhizae(sp). and I always PH my water before feeding. 6.5 on the dot each and every time.

great info for newbs. thanks again. everyone is going to have subtle differences in how they grow their meds. some are better than others, some are the same, and some are just way the fak out there. to each their own, and use what ever works for them.
 
applepoop1984 said:
dolomite lime wont necessarily raise the ph but keep it in an acceptable range. fun fact dolomite lime does inf act have a ph of 7. so in your case it would lower ph. it is a buffer after all. im not telling them to using bags of lime. using the 1-2 tbs of lime will not raise ph. i hope you can get off the offensive and smoke some pot and chill out.
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Yes, it will raise pH if the soil is acidic. But that was not the question. You said not to bother with pHing water, but it is good to know what you are using. My tap water is often 8+ pH, so lime won't do anything for me if I use this without lowering the pH. So you basically failed to even address the question.
 
Applepoopy-
You claimed that flushing is beneficial. I can not find anything to back that up except confused people like yourself.

If buds store fertilizer, which they really don't, why don't they turn yellow like the leaves when you flush/stress them?

There are 20 page threads arguing about flushing on this site.
The science does not back you up. I wouldn't really care except you are trying to tell noobs how to grow.

Flushing soil is just crazy. I have no idea why you would want to wash away beneficial microbes at a crucial time of the plant's development.
Improper curing is causing the problems you think are caused by fertilizer.

You made the proposition that flushing is beneficial, you should back it up with something.
 
Words like flush, prune, and PH should never be uttered by a new grower. That is shit you can get into after you have harvested several crops and you are bored to shit with life and weed so you want to fuckin fuck some shit up. Like making a potato gun just for the hell of it.
 
Impman said:
Words like flush, prune, and PH should never be uttered by a new grower. That is shit you can get into after you have harvested several crops and you are bored to shit with life and weed so you want to fuckin fuck some shit up. Like making a potato gun just for the hell of it.
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you sound like a new grower
 
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