NFTG. Nectar For The Gods

RetiredToker76

Well-Known Member
Edit: I’m on the sample regimen but have One Shot also. 3rd day of 12/12

So are teas and flushes necessary? I am on my 2nd grow and have no experience with either. I ordered some Cultured Biologix EZ Tea Bloom. It should be hear tomorrow. Been having issues probably due to my 8.4 ph tap water with a .5 EC. As I was told by you guys, make sure PPM in soil is around .6 does that mean I should feed heavy a couple days before the tea? As far as flushes, do you look for anything before flushing like in a slurry test?

I’ve been feeding every watering, until a tiny bit of runoff (fabric pot) then let them dry out until they are just the weight of the plant pretty much. Maybe I’m letting them dry too much.
Question 1: Are teas and flushes necessary? I would say sorta yes. If you inoculate your soil with a decent collection of biological life, either through an instant tea or one you brew yourself, if you keep your soil moist enough they'll survive and keep eating and osmossising out things the plants love. Flushes serve the purpose of using up any nutrients left in your soil and preventing waste buildup in the root system. That's why they recommend the Feed Feed Tea, Feed Feed Flush. Now in reality, I water every other day, making it about 3 times a week. By the time I'm done with veg I've probably done upwards of 4 teas and 4 flushes. In reality it becomes more like 2 teas and 6 flushes.

Implied Question 2: How much to water. I take the Scott's (Nectar owner) advice and water them just enough to get them to when I want to water them again. So in my case I like to water every other day. So once established in late veg, I'm feeding about 1 - 1.5 qts every two days per plant in 3 gallon pots. By the time I'm in late flower, I'm usually upwards of 0.75 - 1.25 gallons per plant in 5 gallon pots. A fresh clone or seeding, 4oz or less. My pots aren't "fabric' per say, but they're like fabric, I use Rain Science bags which are more a nylon weave but they're the same principle as fabric pots, before them I used SmartPot fabric pots and didn't really have to water any more than I do now.

Yes you should be doing slurry tests. You want your soil sitting between a 6.0 - 6.8 ph, the closer to 6.5 the better but it will fluctuate; and your ppm between .7 - 1 in early veg, 1 in late veg and early flower and I've pushed as high as 1.4 in mid flower. You're using One Shot which will skew your ppm readings upwards. I would add at least .3 to your expected soil ppm to compensate for having One Shot already in. I can't really tell you what One Shot raises your PPm to but I would expect it to be about .1 - .3 higher. I always get my first slurry before even planting plants and take it before each tea or flush so I know where they're sitting before I tell them to clean their plates and if I need to feed them more. That way if I need to up my nutes, I can tell from the ppm if I'm hitting below .9, I know I need to start upping my feed. BTW most Nectar fam uses the Truncheon scale which is EC x 700. So an EC of .7 would be 490 and 1 would be 700.

A note on slurry tests, get yourself some RO water (my local grocery store sells it as drinking water) and use that for your slurry tests since your tap water is so high. That way you don't have to pH down your water and add a possible acid to your slurry test. Technically your supposed to use the water you water with, however if you're yanking your pH down already it's probably better to just us commercially available RO water. Don't use De-Ionized/Distilled water, it can mess up your probe and doesn't give a good reading for the Nectar system.

As to your high pH, as was posted earlier, bring it down to about a 7.0, let it stabilize, then add your nutes and then bring it back up with Oly Up. Remember the limestone in Oly is as much food as it is pH up, so don't use another brand of pH up. pH down, whatever, phosphoric acid is phosphoric acid, but Nectar's is much weaker than GH, either one doesn't matter just use it before you add your nutes. I use GH for my aeroponic cloning chamber and have a bottle of Hades I never use.

I would strongly recommend any line of Mycorrhiza for at least one of your teas per stage of life. I have used both Mycos and Bigfoot, don't really have a preference, fungus is fungus. Other inoculates to consider,e SLF100 (every time I water), Photosynthesis + (Every time I water), Mycorrhiza
and the Azos Baccilum family of bacteria (at least once per life stage as a tea.)

You're in far less risk of underwatering than you think, especially if you have got good living Mycorrhiza in your soil. That fungus latches onto your roots and stores water for dry times and waters the plant for you. I'm not saying this is advisable, but I once let the plants go for a full week with just one regular watering before I left in deep flower and I came home and they were just starting to droop and hadn't lost any color or leaves. Again I don't advise it, but I feel like Myco is kind of an idiot buffer that gives you a day or two on your watering schedule if something comes up.
 

bubba73

Well-Known Member
Edit: I’m on the sample regimen but have One Shot also. 3rd day of 12/12

So are teas and flushes necessary? I am on my 2nd grow and have no experience with either. I ordered some Cultured Biologix EZ Tea Bloom. It should be hear tomorrow. Been having issues probably due to my 8.4 ph tap water with a .5 EC. As I was told by you guys, make sure PPM in soil is around .6 does that mean I should feed heavy a couple days before the tea? As far as flushes, do you look for anything before flushing like in a slurry test?

I’ve been feeding every watering, until a tiny bit of runoff (fabric pot) then let them dry out until they are just the weight of the plant pretty much. Maybe I’m letting them dry too much.

@bubba73 They are still growing since the adjustments I made, upping the feed, using HD before adding nutes etc. You could probably tell better than I if it’s progressed or not. I’ll post some pics tomorrow…but I don’t think they have gotten worse. Lol.

seems retiredtoker as all your answers…. Good luck .
 
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7L!fTeD24

Well-Known Member
So I'm getting the controller for everything to plug into and I guess AC Infinity has an app that connects to it, wondering if anybody has heard of anyone using this?
 

7L!fTeD24

Well-Known Member
So I'm trying to figure out how I want to set up my exhaust system. I have an 8-in inline fan and 8-in carbon filter coming, I was wondering if it's necessary to have my exhaust going outside can I just exhaust it into the room? Will that keep enough air circulation or should I run my exhaust out the window? The room stays really cold so heat will not be an issue. I also realized that the exhaust system is huge I'm wondering if I should put it outside the tent also.
 

RetiredToker76

Well-Known Member
So I'm trying to figure out how I want to set up my exhaust system. I have an 8-in inline fan and 8-in carbon filter coming, I was wondering if it's necessary to have my exhaust going outside can I just exhaust it into the room? Will that keep enough air circulation or should I run my exhaust out the window? The room stays really cold so heat will not be an issue. I also realized that the exhaust system is huge I'm wondering if I should put it outside the tent also.
If it's the AC infinity carbon filter it can be used in either a push or a pull configuration. The directions on how to use it as a push filter are in the box. I personally use mine outside the grow and push the air through it and out. If it's not the AC infinity filter, don't know, depends on who made it and what their instructions are. Most can be reversed, I've encountered a few very cheap ones that say you can't reverse them.

I personally exhaust out of the house because my grow is built into a wall closet. In a tent it really depends on your air exchange in the room. If the room gets so hot from the exhaust it stops cooling the tent then you need to get the hot air out of the room as well as the tent. Your goals should be roughly less than 80°F at the canopy of your buds and less than 50%RH if you can get it at the top of your buds. As long as your house AC can keep your numbers inside the tent solid, you can exhaust where-ever your want. Inside the room better security but a higher chance you'll run hot, out the window, lower security and you're pulling air out of your house your AC will have to replace but you're also not recirculating hot air. It is really impossible to give you a solid answer, you kind of have to experiment around and find what works best in your space.

As to the size of the ventilation hardware, if your tent has a way to connect all the exhaust on the exterior go for it, that gives you more room for flowers and oscillating fans inside the tent. I'm in a 2x3 closet section for flower, so my fan and carbon filter are both outside the grow and in the attic pulling air through and out so all 6 sq feet of my space are for plants.
 

7L!fTeD24

Well-Known Member
If it's the AC infinity carbon filter it can be used in either a push or a pull configuration. The directions on how to use it as a push filter are in the box. I personally use mine outside the grow and push the air through it and out. If it's not the AC infinity filter, don't know, depends on who made it and what their instructions are. Most can be reversed, I've encountered a few very cheap ones that say you can't reverse them.

I personally exhaust out of the house because my grow is built into a wall closet. In a tent it really depends on your air exchange in the room. If the room gets so hot from the exhaust it stops cooling the tent then you need to get the hot air out of the room as well as the tent. Your goals should be roughly less than 80°F at the canopy of your buds and less than 50%RH if you can get it at the top of your buds. As long as your house AC can keep your numbers inside the tent solid, you can exhaust where-ever your want. Inside the room better security but a higher chance you'll run hot, out the window, lower security and you're pulling air out of your house your AC will have to replace but you're also not recirculating hot air. It is really impossible to give you a solid answer, you kind of have to experiment around and find what works best in your space.

As to the size of the ventilation hardware, if your tent has a way to connect all the exhaust on the exterior go for it, that gives you more room for flowers and oscillating fans inside the tent. I'm in a 2x3 closet section for flower, so my fan and carbon filter are both outside the grow and in the attic pulling air through and out so all 6 sq feet of my space are for plants.
I have a window air conditioner in the room that I can just turn the fan on and it will fill the room with fresh air. Heat won't be a problem the room is in the back of the house with no heating vents so it stays pretty cold anyways, I'll probably have to put my space heater in there actually. Yeah I just read the directions and I see how with this system you can push the air through the carbon filter and put the pre-filter inside the carbon filter so that's what I may do I'm just wondering how much fresh air my plants actually need. The tent takes up half of the room I'm just wondering if I exhaust the air from the tent into the room if that's enough fresh air exchange no worries about heat?
 

7L!fTeD24

Well-Known Member
Okay got my seeds germinating right now I'm growing Haole Moonshine by dragons flame genetics and I'm running nectar for the gods and throwing the whole kitchen sink at it once again. I'd appreciate if you guys tagged along.
NFTG +Spiderfarmer+AC Infinity 4x8(DFG-Haole Moonshine grow)
 

RetiredToker76

Well-Known Member
I'm just wondering if I exhaust the air from the tent into the room if that's enough fresh air exchange no worries about heat?
That's going to be up to the BTU of your window AC unit and heat waste of your lights, fans, dehumidifier; that joined with the total cu.ft. of your space for air exchange. There are room volume, air exchange calculators online, and the 'grow room design' thread here where there will almost certainly be someone who can do the math directly.

When I started over a decade ago, I over estimated everything from light power to inline fan CFM's, you could feel the air being pulled up to the grow in the entire house and the light shot the closet up to 100°f, it was terrifying. So I returned almost everything from design 1 and then under-estimated the power on everything in the complete opposite direction and ran with that until I decided I wasn't growing enough flower. I finally found the happy medium about 4 years in and then really dialed it in with LEDs in 2019. So there's at least three grow closet designs I went through and I seriously doubt I'm in the final version of my design. I'm hoping someday soon to buy a new house with a full room set aside for growing.

So it's kind of work in the space you got, and hang on to your receipts there will be returns. I would assume very few people stick with their first grow design for more than a year or two before they find all the things they either got completely wrong or didn't quite get right. Soap, rinse, repeat.
 

7L!fTeD24

Well-Known Member
That's going to be up to the BTU of your window AC unit and heat waste of your lights, fans, dehumidifier; that joined with the total cu.ft. of your space for air exchange. There are room volume, air exchange calculators online, and the 'grow room design' thread here where there will almost certainly be someone who can do the math directly.

When I started over a decade ago, I over estimated everything from light power to inline fan CFM's, you could feel the air being pulled up to the grow in the entire house and the light shot the closet up to 100°f, it was terrifying. So I returned almost everything from design 1 and then under-estimated the power on everything in the complete opposite direction and ran with that until I decided I wasn't growing enough flower. I finally found the happy medium about 4 years in and then really dialed it in with LEDs in 2019. So there's at least three grow closet designs I went through and I seriously doubt I'm in the final version of my design. I'm hoping someday soon to buy a new house with a full room set aside for growing.

So it's kind of work in the space you got, and hang on to your receipts there will be returns. I would assume very few people stick with their first grow design for more than a year or two before they find all the things they either got completely wrong or didn't quite get right. Soap, rinse, repeat.
Yep length times width times height will tell me what cfm's I need and the 8-in inline has plenty. I agree I've changed my grow setup every single time. When I first started I was using only a 400 watt mh/hps Wing reflector light. I finally have the setup I've always dreamed of LOL. Took me a couple years. I'm sure I'll be adding stuff and taking stuff away next grow.
 

bubba73

Well-Known Member
Really dialed in LEDs ? Unless using a PAR meter it’s not dialed in … maybe close but no …. this dude is starting to remind me or irie roots …lol….. but hey let’s keep taking advice from some one who grows in a closet ….
 

7L!fTeD24

Well-Known Member
Really dialed in LEDs ? Unless using a PAR meter it’s not dialed in … maybe close but no …. this dude is starting to remind me or irie roots …lol….. but hey let’s keep taking advice from some one who grows in a closet ….
Yeah man I tried to download the par meter app on my phone and it is not accurate at all LOL so my LEDs are not dialed in whatsoever I'm eyeballing it for now. That's next on the list is a par meter, a UV light bar, and maybe some CO2. Last grow I went with the recommended hanging heights and it started to torch my tops I had to back it off like 6 in so a par meter will be very helpful. Is there one that you know of that won't break my bank right now most of them are really expensive but I don't want to buy a cheap one that's not efficient.
 

bubba73

Well-Known Member
Now I’m done with this rant …. I have a 4x4 x7 tent with 6 inch exhaust fan that exhaust in room .. room temp is 68 at night 72 day .. tent temp the highest it gets is 82 degrees … which under LEDs you want that tent in the 78-82 degrees … so if you keep that room at highest 73 degrees will keep the temps in tent at range …. Even my other 4x4 tent I have a 4 inch exhaust and temps run 81-84 degrees … am I gonna sit here and go by the size of the room x the cam x this or that no…..

never do a slurry using any other water but what you feed with ….. and there is away to tell the ppm when do a slurry when adding like one shot or top dress … and there a away too when amend soil ….
 

7L!fTeD24

Well-Known Member
Now I’m done with this rant …. I have a 4x4 x7 tent with 6 inch exhaust fan that exhaust in room .. room temp is 68 at night 72 day .. tent temp the highest it gets is 82 degrees … which under LEDs you want that tent in the 78-82 degrees … so if you keep that room at highest 73 degrees will keep the temps in tent at range …. Even my other 4x4 tent I have a 4 inch exhaust and temps run 81-84 degrees … am I gonna sit here and go by the size of the room x the cam x this or that no…..

never do a slurry using any other water but what you feed with ….. and there is away to tell the ppm when do a slurry when adding like one shot or top dress … and there a away too when amend soil ….
Yessir!!! I'm pretty sure this 8 inch exhaust is going to exhaust my entire house LOL I'm sure it will be plenty of fresh air exchange without using my AC. Before I bought this tent I was using a 6-inch inline and carbon filter to exhaust the entire room.
 

7L!fTeD24

Well-Known Member
I'm actually thinking about putting my oscillating fan up above the lights to blow down on my plants just to keep the tent warm because the room's pretty cold. If that's not enough I have a nice little oscillating space heater to go in the room outside of my tent
 

7L!fTeD24

Well-Known Member
I always do my slurries with the exact same water that I feed with and subtract the ppms of that water from my slurry results. If you don't use that process you're not getting accurate results. Especially if your top dressing and amending with one shot. In that case I may not even do a slurry for a while until I know that one shot is breaking down.
 

RetiredToker76

Well-Known Member
Really dialed in LEDs ? Unless using a PAR meter it’s not dialed in … maybe close but no …. this dude is starting to remind me or irie roots …lol….. but hey let’s keep taking advice from some one who grows in a closet ….
Yes, I have and have used an Apogee PAR meter. I worked for one of the state medical grows in IPM for the last year until my 10 year old private media business started picking back up after the plague restrictions relaxed. Yes, I tuned my LEDs with the Apogee PAR meter from work, with my bosses blessings. Then I got my own after comparing it to the phone app. Yes, at home I run 7 plants in a closet, because that's the space I have and I've done it for almost 14 years.

From early early 2021 to the end of May 2022 I was overseeing 10,000 plant hydroponic hoop houses in veg, 5,000 plant houses in flower as an IPM technician. Spent just over a year lugging 5 gallon spray backpacks of Azaguard battling outdoor grow conditions for distillation flowers and emptying 100 gallon spray tanks of sulfur. Is my resume suitable for you?

Don't like my advice, fine point out where I'm wrong, if I am in fact wrong I'll admit it. I pointed him towards online calculators and RIU's grow room design thread for proper advice on grow room ventilation. Want to to play ad-hominem attack, fine I'll whip it out on the table.
 
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bubba73

Well-Known Member
Yeah man I tried to download the par meter app on my phone and it is not accurate at all LOL so my LEDs are not dialed in whatsoever I'm eyeballing it for now. That's next on the list is a par meter, a UV light bar, and maybe some CO2. Last grow I went with the recommended hanging heights and it started to torch my tops I had to back it off like 6 in so a par meter will be very helpful. Is there one that you know of that won't break my bank right now most of them are really expensive but I don't want to buy a cheap one that's not efficient.
well I have a few led lights here tell me the watt and I can pretty much tell ya …. With my HLG 650 r I’m 2 -1/2 feet away which is kinda close … power at little more then half withPAR 965 …
amazon is where I got mine… don’t need an expensive one just need to know the #s … I spent 180.00 on mine …

any more these LEDs are like using a cmh , hps … 3 feet is safe or unless you got a dimmer …
 

7L!fTeD24

Well-Known Member
well I have a few led lights here tell me the watt and I can pretty much tell ya …. With my HLG 650 r I’m 2 -1/2 feet away which is kinda close … power at little more then half withPAR 965 …
amazon is where I got mine… don’t need an expensive one just need to know the #s … I spent 180.00 on mine …

any more these LEDs are like using a cmh , hps … 3 feet is safe or unless you got a dimmer …
I'm running a few 300 watt spider farmer se3000s with the Samsung diodes.
 

bubba73

Well-Known Member
I always do my slurries with the exact same water that I feed with and subtract the ppms of that water from my slurry results. If you don't use that process you're not getting accurate results. Especially if your top dressing and amending with one shot. In that case I may not even do a slurry for a while until I know that one shot is breaking down.
there away to do it … Danny is a north east rep or use to be and years ago you can take the # and subtract by so much and you get a ball park figure…… like when I do slurries on amended soil , my ph is far more important..ppm can be around 2000 but as long as the ph is in range your golden ….
pits like when people use different soil either be FF , organic roots or what not you slurry it before using it with nectar ..and there’s a way of prepping for use with nectar …
 
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