Plants dont recover after overwatering and transplanting =/

I'm not sure if I'm following correctly? You were asking about the ratios of inputs that make up your base?

Are you sitting the fabrics on a wicking base? The gravel or granulated layer in the bottom isn't going to help you if you break the contact with the media and the bottom of the fabric.

Whenever I've made mixes and there was a question of "is it airy enough", just take a handful, squeeze moderatly hard in your hand. You should hear a spongy airy sound. Little bit of water should drip out, squeeze even harder and more drips out. Your really looking for that airy squishy sound. Like a sponge would make.

bescheidenheit33 said:

Alright thank you, I will see what happens in the next few days.
The plants get 28°C and 70% humidity now .


I placed the clay granulates at the bottom so that wont work.
I can poke a wick through however(?).

Click to expand...

Never tried wicks in regular pots myself. I imagine it would take a bit of trial and error to get the proper wick size/pot size ratio...

I do grow my larger plants in sub-irrigated planters, which use a similar principle, with a small section of the soil resting in water to act as a wick. There's a whole thread on this site about them with a lot of info and different types if you're interested in checking them out: https://www.rollitup.org/t/sip-thread-sub-irrigated-planter.904886/

I see a train wreck.

From what I've gathered this is a peat base potting mix that's got dominant percentage. Adding the coco isn't going to stop the peat from its natural tendencies to acidify over time, or the CEC of it. So youll still have to treat it like peat and remwmber that peat holds onto elements better than coco...feed, water water feed (if liquid nute is the desired approach)The coco will serve as drainage and over time help to counter the amounts of lime needed to neutralize and buffer the peat.

If coco dominant is your end goal, everytime you recycle just add more coco. In the place of peat, substitute with aged compost, composted leaf litter or leaf mold. (EWC, fish manure, alpaca or rabbit is all good and relatively gentle) Start incorporating more oyster flour and other meals and cut out the lime. Every recycle will just make the soil better and better. I can't stress enough though, if a water only approach is your ultimate goal, bottom watering is more than likely your best option. You don't want to leech out any of the good stuff. Alternatively a small SIP would be great for this and they're very simple to make and even easier to maintain.

Ok I think I have good news.
A big thank you to everyone who pointed out the issues with humidity and overly compact soil.

I took one of the dying plants out of its pot and carefully transferred it to a smaller one again,
gently loosening the soil around the roots. Now, just 12 hours after being placed in the fresh soil,
all the leaves are standing tall and upright again!
The plant seems to love its new environment and soil.


The leafes were really droppy yesterday, and now they are standing.
Im so suprised how fast its recovering, 12 hours!

And the smaller plants seem to be doing great as well — everything is looking great.
I'm really happy right now.





Only thing I noticed is that my humidifier isnt strong enough it seems for my 12m² room. :/

@GreenGenez421 : I have to admit, I dont have a clear goal right now, this is just me trying out stuff. I didnt even add that much coco
at the end Ive noticed. If I could choose, I would like to grow organically but still have some controll over how many nutrients are in there.
So I would still like to feed manually per hand. I also must admit I dont quite understand all the minerals and elements that are needed.
Im actually a real noob when it comes to organic grow, I simply "though" Im growing organically because I use worm castings, lol.

Is there any amateur guide here on the forums for organic grow in soil that you would recommend me reading?
I browsed through the forums a bit but im really a bit overwhelmed with the amount of text and threads.

bescheidenheit33 said:

Ok I think I have good news.
A big thank you to everyone who pointed out the issues with humidity and overly compact soil.

I took one of the dying plants out of its pot and carefully transferred it to a smaller one again,
gently loosening the soil around the roots. Now, just 12 hours after being placed in the fresh soil,
all the leaves are standing tall and upright again!
The plant seems to love its new environment and soil.


The leafes were really droppy yesterday, and now they are standing.
Im so suprised how fast its recovering, 12 hours!

And the smaller plants seem to be doing great as well — everything is looking great.
I'm really happy right now.





Only thing I noticed is that my humidifier isnt strong enough it seems for my 12m² room. :/

@GreenGenez421 : I have to admit, I dont have a clear goal right now, this is just me trying out stuff. I didnt even add that much coco
at the end Ive noticed. If I could choose, I would like to grow organically but still have some controll over how many nutrients are in there.
So I would still like to feed manually per hand. I also must admit I dont quite understand all the minerals and elements that are needed.
Im actually a real noob when it comes to organic grow, I simply "though" Im growing organically because I use worm castings, lol.

Is there any amateur guide here on the forums for organic grow in soil that you would recommend me reading?
I browsed through the forums a bit but im really a bit overwhelmed with the amount of text and threads.

Click to expand...

Glad to see things have turned around for you. It's the little things like this that help boost confidence. Hiccups happen, but don't overwhelm yourself and make it complicated.

The ONLY difference between organic and mineral salts is the form of elements. At the end of the day plants require the same forms and whether it's converted via microbes or refined by a manufacturer. Technically speaking, it's all the same in the end when the plants uptake it.

If your looking to have more control over what, when and how much.... salts is the way to go. It's more involved but damn does it produce nice crops. Top water/feed and allow run off. Also the results of your adjustments are much quicker seen. In organics the microbes have to break it down and let's say you add something today, your not going to see the effects for about a week, doesn't really give the grower that much control. Mother nature is on her own schedule. But it is an ideal approach for the lazy or busy people. I'm gone alot, mabey home 2x a week and that can vary week to week. There's no way I could pull off a mineral salt grow without several nutrient dosers, automated system with a 30gal well tank running dtw. Recirculation is completely out of the question, at least for now. Lol, and ive got 98% of everything to do it. I'm just way to busy.

As far as resources, I'd scour the organic section here on RIU. Lots of solid info. You can always reach out to me if you've got questions, I'd be more than happy to help. But your in good hands with the community, lots of highly credible and experienced growers.

GreenGenez421 said:

If your looking to have more control over what, when and how much.... salts is the way to go. It's more involved but damn does it produce nice crops.

Click to expand...

Well here is the thing;

For the past two years, I’ve essentially only used two types of fertilizer:

• A liquid fertilizer that writes its half organic and half mineral-based (contains things like bat guano, etc., NPK 4-5-6) + bitter salt.
• This solid fertilizer here (Organic NPK Fertilizer 7-3-10)

In addition, I’ve been using organic soils and worm humus.
That's all I've used in the past 2 years.

Would you consider this an organic approach?
Or how would you describe my growing method?
Honestly, I’m not entirely sure what type of cultivation I’m practicing here.

I guess by "salts" you mean something like my liquid fertilizier right?

bescheidenheit33 said:

Well here is the thing;

For the past two years, I’ve essentially only used two types of fertilizer:

• A liquid fertilizer that writes its half organic and half mineral-based (contains things like bat guano, etc., NPK 4-5-6)
• This solid fertilizer here (Organic NPK Fertilizer 7-3-10)

In addition, I’ve been using organic soils and worm humus.
That's all I've used in the past 2 years.

Would you consider this an organic approach?
Or how would you describe my growing method?
Honestly, I’m not entirely sure what type of cultivation I’m practicing here.

I guess by "salts" you mean something like my liquid fertilizier right?

Click to expand...

I would call your approach a hybrid. The organic amended soil that relies on microbial biomes, the EWC that conditions and assists with a minute level of chelation, but bring a plethora of bacteria to encourage a dominant presence. Add the liquid fertilizer that's a 50/50, you've got your grounds covered. I wouldn't use the liquid fertilizer at recommend dosage tho, especially if your adding the dry along with it. Personally I'd do 1 or the other, and my preferred would be the liquid. You have alot more control. If you over do it. Just plain water for a few rounds will clear that right up, and then resume.

GreenGenez421 said:

I would call your approach a hybrid. The organic amended soil that relies on microbial biomes, the EWC that conditions and assists with a minute level of chelation, but bring a plethora of bacteria to encourage a dominant presence. Add the liquid fertilizer that's a 50/50, you've got your grounds covered.

Click to expand...

Ah nice, thats really good to hear.

GreenGenez421 said:

I wouldn't use the liquid fertilizer at recommend dosage tho

Click to expand...

I dont. The biggest european cannabis forum is grower.ch (switzerland based) and they recommended me,
after posting them my water sheet and what my tap water contains, to use 2ml/L of the liquid fertilizer,
and 1ml/L of a bitter-salt solution, and that has always worked out great.
So I use much lower dosage.

GreenGenez421 said:

Personally I'd do 1 or the other

Click to expand...

I forgot to mention, I only use the dry fertilizer for my mother plants or when I transplant,
but my prefered one is the liquid one as well.

GreenGenez421 said:

You have alot more control. If you over do it. Just plain water for a few rounds will clear that right up, and then resume.

Click to expand...

Exactly thats what I liked so much about liquid fertilizers.
I thought about using things like BioTabs (I think they are known in the US/Canada as well right?),
but I wouldnt have any controll over it.

I think im going to stick with the hybrid-liquid-fertilizer and the worm castings.

Ive looked into your grows and honestly, that looks a bit complicated for me :/.
Your soil looks like when I go into a forrest, with leafs etc.
Never seen this before.

Three or four days is a while, though. Besides letting them dry out, have you checked the roots closely? Sometimes root rot sets in even if you see some roots. A little compost tea is a good idea, but maybe a light feeding of something like kelp would help them recover faster. Just a thought.

9imp said:

Three or four days is a while, though. Besides letting them dry out, have you checked the roots closely?

Click to expand...

Yes I looked at the roots and they did not look good, wich is another reason why I killed them.
I dont know if you have read this, but the plants are all dead now besides the one I saved (post #65).
Im starting with new plants right now, new soil, new environment etc.
Going to see what happens int he next couple days, so far its looking good.

I'm not against anyone's approach, unless It's counter productive to the plants success. With that in mind I absolutely advocate for every growers choice and preferences.

bescheidenheit33 said:

Ive looked into your grows and honestly, that looks a bit complicated for me :/.
Your soil looks like when I go into a forrest, with leafs etc.
Never seen this before.

Click to expand...

It's actually really simple. Core principle is that mother nature provides... everything and every input have a nutritional value. You need to forget about the present norm regarding mineral values and pH and Yada Yada. Sustainable farming is what I do. I recycle everything and that adds a multitude of elements back into the soil. A compain crop turned fodder, can replenish and renew the soil at its own pace.... naturally, with every irrigation, watering, drench, rainfall... whatever you call it. It rinses and leeches enzymatically digested organic material/nutrients down into the roots. Just like in nature. Plants that are know to be bio-accumulators are ideal, everything they uptake, they retain..... when they're composted/digested/broken down, they'll resupply removed elements, thus feeding following crops.

Here's an example....
This is 5 weeks of a 12/12 schedule...including 8 day transition to flower and flower set.


Here is the cover crop turned fodder. Plants grown just to be recycled.... just uproot it or smooth it down, cover with mulch, straw, compost, ewc, topsoil.


At the end of the day, if your cropping out homegrown fire, I'm with you all the way. I respect everyone's groove, this is just what works best for me, mostly being lazy and un-stimulated. Been there, done that kinda thing.