Prepping for 2013 outdoor guerilla grow !

Ok so this is what im planning on. let me know what you think or some things I could improve on

Currently on it's way:

10 feminized Ice seeds from Nirvana on its way
15 x fox farm ocean forest 2.0 cu ft
10 kg of each Heavy Harvest (Spring, Summer, Fall)
8 Qt Perlite
15 lbs of earthworm castings
11 lbs of jamaican bat guano
Maxicrop liquid seaweed
cloning solution
45-pack of rockwool cubes
organocide(spray)

I currently have 2 patches scoped out and at one of my patches on the side of a well hidden hill containes 10 holes with two 37gal buckets at the very top of the hill. 5 holes to each tub that I have tubes running from the tub down to each of the holes. I will poke tiny drip holes at each of the holes where im planting. I'd say each week I would have to come back and refill the 37gal bucketsto keep the dripping.
Other location is in a dense patch of prickers thats encircled by a fresh water steam that I plan on putting my 10 clones at. I also have another 37gal bucket there that I will be running lines from to create another drip scenario to each of the holes. I'm not sure that the lines will have enough pressure to continue running water down the lines because unlike this patch, it's on a much more level ground than the two 37gal ontop of the hill. Reason why I am going to keep large buckets stashed somewhere close by that if the drips dont work I can just make a 30ft walk to get some water from the stream.

To start this off before I plant them in the patches I will do a 4 week indoor grow to get a head start on the season. I've used another 37gal bucket with a lid and taped every square inch inside of it with tinfoil like tape to have reflectors in the inside to start my 10 germinated seeds in. Tough part about this is I will be in a dorm for the 4 week start-off period so I had to make it fool proof with no light coming out and to know I could go to class and sleep without it becoming a problem. I cut a tiny hole at the top of the lid for an outlet plug to run through and have 2 26 watt CFL bulbs I will hang inside of this box thats about 3 feet wide by 2 feet high. I will cut a circular hole in the side of the box to put my tiny circular fan infront of it that will be pulling fresh air out of my dorm window that will be cracked open and providing my box with circulation and also cool air so my bulbs and the the entire box won't over heat which could cause a fire inside of my dorm (BUSTED!) I will have the 10 seeds start out in pong cups that I will put one cup into the other. The cup that is on the inside I will poke acouple tiny holes so it provides a run off into the other cup if needed. watering about everyday? i'm still not sure about watering the weeks after germination.

Once they get high enough I will transport the bucket with my 10 babies back home around early days in april and will start getting them used to the outside sun. Maybe ill put acouple out in the woods or in my window to get the plants "hardened" to the sun because we all know the sun is much more powerful than bulbs and can scorch your plants if thrown out to fend for itself after 4 weeks inside. Once the beauties are ready to put out and all of my holes are dug to the size i need it (about 2 cu. feet for each hole?) I will transport all of my soil and fertilizers to the spot and begin planting. I will fill up the hole about 25% high with fox farm soil, add a handful of perlite (20-25%) and mix it in. Then I will throw some more soil into the hole while mixing both of my jamaican bat guano and earthworm castings to level out the hole to the natural ground. NOW THE PLANTS ARE ADDED ! which are about estimating will be around a foot or two high in length and will be ready to withstand natural sunlight on its own. I will then add a good handful of Heavy Harvest(spring) blend to the outer parts of the hole (not putting it directly next to the roots. This will cause burning of the roots) and give it a nice good watering to finish off the process. lastly 20in tall green chicken wire will be posted around each plant to prevent deer and other hoes from eatin my shit up.

Ill eventually add the Heavy Harvest in about every 3 week give or take the season (spring, summer and fall) with a handful of bat guano and earthworm castings and of course.. NO FERTILIZERS THE LAST FEW WEEKS TILL HARVEST. Once they get to a good size i'll give it a nice good SUPERCROP to the stems (pinch roll and bend method) and ill start to top them after 4-5 nodes. When they get tall enough Ill start to LOLLIPOP each of the girls to give the top half of the plants extra nutrients to run up through. Ill end up putting a bamboo stick right in the middle and use some string to tie the main stem up to give it a nice straight path to follow. I'm thinking about the watering schedules that will be needed.. Im on the east coast and temperatures relatively range from about 75-90 on some summer days. Giving that one of my patches is on a hill and will have a very good run-off from potential rainy days and my other patch is relatively close to a running stream. Im thinking ill have to give em a really nice good water around every 3 days and give them a nice dry period for the roots to expand while searching for water (of course taking in account of rainy days) but this is my estimate. (IF MY DRIP LINES DON'T WORK!). Im pretty sure the lines on the hill run-off will work fine but most likely I will have to make trips to the patch around the encircled steam every 3 days or so.

Also I -might- have a summer job that I will have to be at during the week which is 3 hours away, I hope the patch on the hill run-off will withstand enough drips to last around 4-5 days with the 37gal bucket if this is so, and if not well Im wondering if my plants will withstand until I get back on the weekends. Or even the patch by the stream if It could take possibly 4-5 days without water. Idk yet... maybe ill get a day of rain in the middle of the week well see!) Give or take my location would It be OK to water during the night ?\

Im hoping to average AT LEAST 4 oz per plant. and IF I get all 10 clones rooted i'll have a total of 20 plants (10 at each location) which would be around 80oz.
but all the reading I've been doing on this site.. most people that have outdoor plants and take good care of them end up with around 8-10oz per plant which could give me
around 160oz if I get 8 from each.$$
Just hoping for a killer season !!

First outdoor guerilla grow. Tell me what u think !

I hope your selection of ICE does better than mine did last year. Large plants, but fluffy buds. Also was a pretty long winded strain, wasn't finished until mid Nov. Could have just been the pheno I got.
Good luck and happy growing.

Thanks man im hoping that starting them inside for about 3-4 weeks will give me a nice headstart and not end up
having the plants when bad weather starts to hit !

anyone else with some advice im missing or could improve on?

um ffof comes in 1.5 cf bags...happy frog comes in 2.0cf bags...
i would never use "Heavy Harvest" i have burned by AN way too bad to ever give them another dollar...
don't even think about yield and your money yet....it will leave you disappointed...(your not being realistic..as you count for no loss.)

It's a nice plan but don't plan on money. Mold and bud Rot can wipe out entire crops before there ready to be harvested. At the end of the season be ready for some smokable bud some premature bud and some bud that's moldy and garbage.

You can make hash with all of the nuggets that aren't smoking quality, just not the moldy stuff.

It's difficult to harvest highquality weed in a gorilla grow because you aren't there every day at the end if the season and some plants will be ready early but others may not be. Good luck to you and have fun.

Outdoor I typically get at least a pound per plant. I dont particularly get impressed by the big lists of stuff people use for their gardens. Because the key thing is for plants to get all micronutrients (in right concentrations) and perfectly timed watering. Coupled with proper housekeeping of your outdoor plants - most importantly, when required: foliar nutrient spray, ORGANIC insect/fungicide sprays, removing brown/yellow leaves, cutting off troublesome branches, supporting the plants, ensure proper air intake by the plant and keeping it as dry and clean as possible. It really doesnt matter what kind of medium you use for the roots - I tried everything from horse manure, to triple mix, to fancy soils / perlite, but the plants hardly care about that. They do care about this: the soil must not be heavy on nutes to begin with; it must be EASILY drainable and do not use pots. The golden rule for outdoors is if you water and the soil around the stem is dry the next day - the plant is happy. If the soil stays soggy for days on, the plant will not like that. I use normal triple mix that you would see at stores and mix it with dolomitic limestone (90% soil, 10% limestone) to make sure that pH will never dip too low with the heavy watering/nutrients that I will subject the plants throughout the summer/fall. Here's the big secret - marijuana plants LOVE when you plant them in sandy soils. Yield increases massively. In my area below the first dozen inches of soil is ALL sand down at least 100 feet all around. Provides great drainage and endless room for the roots. Another big secret is that marijuana plants HATE it when their roots are constrained. It affects the yield and the plant health. When there is no bottom and plenty of room at the side for the roots to expand, the plants feel free and grow to their full potential.

SenorBrownWater said:

um ffof comes in 1.5 cf bags...happy frog comes in 2.0cf bags...
i would never use "Heavy Harvest" i have burned by AN way too bad to ever give them another dollar...
don't even think about yield and your money yet....it will leave you disappointed...(your not being realistic..as you count for no loss.)

Click to expand...

i'm not going to go too hard with the heavy harvest only one top cover every 3-4 weeks. we'll see what happens this is my first grow anything happens will
be a learning experience

OriginalOrganics said:

It's a nice plan but don't plan on money. Mold and bud Rot can wipe out entire crops before there ready to be harvested. At the end of the season be ready for some smokable bud some premature bud and some bud that's moldy and garbage.

You can make hash with all of the nuggets that aren't smoking quality, just not the moldy stuff.

It's difficult to harvest highquality weed in a gorilla grow because you aren't there every day at the end if the season and some plants will be ready early but others may not be. Good luck to you and have fun.

Click to expand...

I'm learning more about more preventative ways to keep off mold and stufff, i'll be sure to keep good amounts of organocide on the plants every trip
I make out there. Also I will be spraying water mixed with some baking soda throughout on top of leaves and underneath [ heard about this from an experienced grower ]
to also prevent mold during flowering. thanks for the input bro

Answered you in PA growers thread

Add a little sulfide to your watering. You may not like the rotten egg smell, but it really makes the plant stronger. First it provides key nutrient to the plant, and enhances its defense against diseases. Mold is a different issue, nothing could stop it if the right conditions occur for mold to grow in. Proper maintenance is essential to prevent mold, and keeping the plants dry and happy is important. Remove any yellow/brown leaves as they encourage mold to develop.

markexpress said:

Add a little sulfide to your watering. You may not like the rotten egg smell, but it really makes the plant stronger. First it provides key nutrient to the plant, and enhances its defense against diseases. Mold is a different issue, nothing could stop it if the right conditions occur for mold to grow in. Proper maintenance is essential to prevent mold, and keeping the plants dry and happy is important. Remove any yellow/brown leaves as they encourage mold to develop.

Click to expand...

where can i find some sulfide SE PA ? and how much do I add per gallon of water ?

to help prevent against mold during flower, there are steps you can take during veg to help prevent the possibility of mold occurring and spreading. Im assuming you will be pinching tops and trying to make large bushes(highly advisable), however, keep an eye on branches that start growing close to each other. If you have to many branches bunched close to each other when it rains they will stay wet way longer then a single branch. Now if you have nuggets on those branches and its late in the season, they need to be separated so that air can flow around every branch. Otherwise mold will form here first. Training during veg will help this, I would tie branches to steaks in outward directions to encourage even growth throughout the season.

OriginalOrganics said:

to help prevent against mold during flower, there are steps you can take during veg to help prevent the possibility of mold occurring and spreading. Im assuming you will be pinching tops and trying to make large bushes(highly advisable), however, keep an eye on branches that start growing close to each other. If you have to many branches bunched close to each other when it rains they will stay wet way longer then a single branch. Now if you have nuggets on those branches and its late in the season, they need to be separated so that air can flow around every branch. Otherwise mold will form here first. Training during veg will help this, I would tie branches to steaks in outward directions to encourage even growth throughout the season.

Click to expand...

good advice will def be doing some training away from other branches thanks !!

Just a word to help you out. Where you are from the falls are wet and super humid. I highly suggest that you mulch your plants in pretty well. This is something I have learned to do in the spring and I'm from a similar area as you. It will help with the summer heat and droughts by keeping the sun off the dirt and water in the ground. It will also help keep bad fungus that is in the soil from splashing onto the stem and lower leaves. This fungus shows up here and there (I believe it might be a form of late blight but not sure) and mulching has seemed to help. Along with keeping up on maintenance and keeping good airflow will greatly lower your risks. You should also look into getting liquid copper to stop it in it's tracks if it shows up.

The other thing is deer are not your only enemy. Small animals also get curious and like to nibble. I have found that this product "Repels All" along with human piss seems to help keep animals away. Lastly slugs, ohh your gonna find out about them fast and you will despise the hell out of them. Use copper tape, stacked copper wire around the stem at the base to keep them off the plant. You can also use other organic or chemical controls, its your choice. I have used this before Slug Killer it works but I'm not sure if the plant uptakes the chemical so I put it in a circle at a distance of 5 feet around each plant. Most of all experiment and learn. Good luck!

markexpress said:

Outdoor I typically get at least a pound per plant. I dont particularly get impressed by the big lists of stuff people use for their gardens. Because the key thing is for plants to get all micronutrients (in right concentrations) and perfectly timed watering. Coupled with proper housekeeping of your outdoor plants - most importantly, when required: foliar nutrient spray, ORGANIC insect/fungicide sprays, removing brown/yellow leaves, cutting off troublesome branches, supporting the plants, ensure proper air intake by the plant and keeping it as dry and clean as possible. It really doesnt matter what kind of medium you use for the roots - I tried everything from horse manure, to triple mix, to fancy soils / perlite, but the plants hardly care about that. They do care about this: the soil must not be heavy on nutes to begin with; it must be EASILY drainable and do not use pots. The golden rule for outdoors is if you water and the soil around the stem is dry the next day - the plant is happy. If the soil stays soggy for days on, the plant will not like that. I use normal triple mix that you would see at stores and mix it with dolomitic limestone (90% soil, 10% limestone) to make sure that pH will never dip too low with the heavy watering/nutrients that I will subject the plants throughout the summer/fall. Here's the big secret - marijuana plants LOVE when you plant them in sandy soils. Yield increases massively. In my area below the first dozen inches of soil is ALL sand down at least 100 feet all around. Provides great drainage and endless room for the roots. Another big secret is that marijuana plants HATE it when their roots are constrained. It affects the yield and the plant health. When there is no bottom and plenty of room at the side for the roots to expand, the plants feel free and grow to their full potential.

Click to expand...

I agree with everything you say except to " not use pots ". If he has any drainage issues he will run into a lot of problems at the beginning or at the end of his grow. Pots are Ideal when used with a good soil mix as they will allow for great drainage. These plants don't need to be constantly water and like you say will be very happy when they dry out. If he goes directly in the ground he will need to be sure he's not in some type of flood prone area. Oopps now that I read back he is growing on the side of a hill. Maybe he will have good drainage ? We don't have hills where I'm from, It's flat as a board and we have to be real careful when we plant direct into the ground. Thats my 2 cents , not trying to step on your toes. Just another variable to consider as if mother nature doesn't throw plenty at us in the great outdoors . Good luck !

ill be putting some pics up tomorrow of the 2 plots + irregation system i might use. (dont know yet if i should keep constant drips throughout a week straight or to come back every 4-5 days to water while letting the roots grow while searching for water) giving the two spots im leaning toward 4-5 day watering because one spot is on the side of a hill while the other is 20-30ft from a fresh water stream

You don't need to lollipop outdoors

the box I will start in, will cut a large hole in one of the small sides and put a fan infront of it for ventilation
-temp meter inside
-can fit 25 pong cups inside

Prince Charles said:

ill be putting some pics up tomorrow of the 2 plots + irregation system i might use. (dont know yet if i should keep constant drips throughout a week straight or to come back every 4-5 days to water while letting the roots grow while searching for water) giving the two spots im leaning toward 4-5 day watering because one spot is on the side of a hill while the other is 20-30ft from a fresh water stream

Click to expand...

Be careful about using perlite on uneven terrain or those south facing hillside areas that serve so well for our growing purposes.

After heavy rains, it tends to leave a trail to coincide with water runoff.