Your problems stem from the root zone. Good luck with the h2o2. I know people use it to prevent root rot, but a lot of people are unable to actually cure root rot with it. I think it is more useful in flood n drain and nft where you roots aren't submerged in a bucket of water 24/7. IN dwc I have just heard too many reports of it not clearing up root rot, and benes finally had to be used. If it works, great... if it doesn't you could potentially spend weeks continuously adding it only to eventually figure out it isn't working and your shit still isn't growing. Also, the h2o2 people use is something like 29-34%; the 3% kind commonly sold at walmart and grocery stores most likely won't do diddly fuck and you might be better off just adding plain clorox bleach to your res every 3 days. Dutch Master Zone and Nutrilife h2o2 and SM-90 are popular.
https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/94811-al-b-faqt.html for more info on using h2o2 and good info in general.
What I can say is the success of your grow... whether you are going to get any bud to smoke or not... hinges on whether or not you can get this under control. Fortunately, it's not expensive or hard, and it doesn't take a long time to see recovery if you do things correctly. The biggest problem you have is light leaks and that is easy enough to fix. But you still have to do something to stop the algae and shit from progressing. The following process is something I have done more than once, and it works for me.
I would simply flush the net pot and roots with a small splash of bleach (or h2o2, zone, etc) in tap water, and then make a new res and pick up a $15 bottle of aquashield; will last the entire grow. Get as much slime and algae off the roots as you can with your fingers. You can
gently tug on the roots to slough off any dead ones. If that doesn't fix it (which it probably will), add worm castings aka ancient forest humus (I never had to do this... see
https://www.rollitup.org/dwc-bubbleponics/361430-dwc-root-slime-cure-aka.html for details). Your green roots won't fix themselves, but new growth should be white and you should see new growth in a couple days after inoculation. No need to use ph water, ph is only important for nute uptake. Anything you are doing that doesn't involve nute uptake does not have to be at any particular ph.
Anyway, try the h202 and if that doesn't work, use benes.
A couple things to remember about your dwc bucket...
- PH and PPM measuring pens/meters are a per-requesite and an upfront investment for dwc. Once things begin to fall out of suitable parameters, changes happen quickly when roots are submerged in a bucket of water. You need measuring equipment to make sure you maintain the proper ph and nute strength, which is obviously vital.
- Light proof - wrap it up with silver bubble wrap from home depot (reflectix) and duct tape. Insulates, light proof, reflective, affordable, easy to get... what more could you want? I guess it could be kinda hard/awkward to steal, which might be considered an area they could 'improve' on.
- Temps - 68* I swap a 1L bottle of ice every 24 hours to maintain this temp. If you run benes you should be safe in the low 70s.
- PH - 5.8 if your ph isn't the majority of the time between 5.6 to 5.9 in early veg, you are risking lockout. I prefer to be more like 5.9 to 6.0 in flower.
- Bubbles - I believe the recommendation is a commercial air pump, something like 1L/min per gallon to reach maximum dissolved oxygen saturation.
- EC - Nute strength based on size/condition of roots, not leafs; .5 or .6 for a healthy plant around the size of the one in your picture (250 - 300ppm if meter is x0.5 scale, most likely it is if you got it from the United States). Maybe a little lighter until you see new root growth.
- NPK - make sure you don't stack up on one element like P or cal/mag because too much of one element can/will lock out other shit. For example, people like to make a coctail of bloom boosters and hardeners and sometimes use so much PK they lock shit out.
- Beneficial Microbes (benes) or Sterile - Even with all of the above correct, some people can still get dirty water. You might have to continuously use either h2o2 or benes. I use Aquashield for benes. Some people substitute bleach instead of h2o2, but it's generally considered sketchy. You can probably get away with just pond-zyme from petco for general maintenance when you have no root problems.
As for your leaf spots, those won't heal but new leafs should be healthy... just fix the roots and they will be fine. I would actually experiment with foliar feeding nutes since your roots look pretty much out of commission at the moment and the plant is showing deficiencies.