• Here is a link to the full explanation: https://rollitup.org/t/welcome-back-did-you-try-turning-it-off-and-on-again.1104810/

Quantum Boards LED Plug n Play HID Duct cooled retrofit Kit

dandyrandy

dandyrandy

Well-Known Member
So what do the back of these look like? Maybe I missed it. If flat is available I could screw it to my 10"x42" heat sinks? Maybe 3 per sink? I was switching from 3590's to some more efficient ones next year but now another option with more points of light.
 
Mellodrama

Mellodrama

Well-Known Member
I have to admit some skepticism about transfer of heat to a heatsink. I've played around with computers and COB's and thermal paste. Good transfer of heat relies on solid contact and a thin layer of TIM helping out where the surfaces aren't in direct contact.

I don't have one of these QB's to look at, but I'm guessing the metal-to-metal contact against the sink varies a lot. And you guys aren't applying any sort of thermal paste, right? Seems to me you'd need screws every few inches to get some decent contact between the two...
 
S

Shugglet

Well-Known Member
ChaosHunter said:
Mel they just don't run that hot. Unlike a standard COB where the heat is focused at one small spot these boards are spread out.
Click to expand...
I get that, but the larger surface area also means more variation across the whole, which leads to air gaps which leads to hot spots on the board... I would think that could have an impact on performance.
 
Stephenj37826

Stephenj37826

Well-Known Member
Shugglet said:
I get that, but the larger surface area also means more variation across the whole, which leads to air gaps which leads to hot spots on the board... I would think that could have an impact on performance.
Click to expand...

No hotspot on the board as we use very good board material that has a copper layer to evenly distribute the heat :-)

That's why I said all metal core boards are not equal.
 
dandyrandy

dandyrandy

Well-Known Member
Stephenj37826 said:
No hotspot on the board as we use very good board material that has a copper layer to evenly distribute the heat :-)

That's why I said all metal core boards are not equal.
Click to expand...
Are there holes in the center to use to mount the board to get a good fit? Say 6 or 8 would be nice. But maybe I'll go back to my passive fencepost design and no sink just air passing across? I'll be quiet now and watch. I'm interested. Maybe replace my 16 3590's.
 
dandyrandy

dandyrandy

Well-Known Member
Stephenj37826 said:
There are 8 screw points the 2 center ones and 6 on the outer edges.
Click to expand...
Ok so I started out 4 years ago with a Mars 300. I got tired of replacing diodes every cycle. I was running 5 in the area I am running 16 cobs now. Of course the Mars was more heat than light. Now I'm going back to an efficient Mars. Kind of. The more points of light the better. And much more efficient diodes. Thanks!
 
ChaosHunter

ChaosHunter

Well-Known Member
dandyrandy said:
Ok so I started out 4 years ago with a Mars 300. I got tired of replacing diodes every cycle. I was running 5 in the area I am running 16 cobs now. Of course the Mars was more heat than light. Now I'm going back to an efficient Mars. Kind of. The more points of light the better. And much more efficient diodes. Thanks!
Click to expand...
Think of it as a lot of small high powered COBs on each board instead of diodes =0)
 
frica

frica

Well-Known Member
Mellodrama said:
I have to admit some skepticism about transfer of heat to a heatsink. I've played around with computers and COB's and thermal paste. Good transfer of heat relies on solid contact and a thin layer of TIM helping out where the surfaces aren't in direct contact.

I don't have one of these QB's to look at, but I'm guessing the metal-to-metal contact against the sink varies a lot. And you guys aren't applying any sort of thermal paste, right? Seems to me you'd need screws every few inches to get some decent contact between the two...
Click to expand...
Much less needed when the heat sources are very spread out and not as intense.
 
Stephenj37826

Stephenj37826

Well-Known Member
1000ppm said:
Looks like you can fit at least 6 in here. Why only 4. Don't want to compare to a 1k I would want to woop it's ass. I have 4 Raptors with se looking for a solution like this. Why not 6 boards?
Click to expand...
6 boards fit the larger hoods such as the aforementioned raptor.... Alas 6 boarfs won't fit hoods such as the blockbuster. Yes the gain would be nice but the price would also be higher. Im thinking of it two ways really. If we use 6 boards the ~100-150 ppf gain would be nice but not universal across all medium and large reflectors . 2 I can easily increase the wattage 25 watts and get the same effect for no additional cost.(The drivers are set to 275 watts each of a possible 300)

This is about a low cost plug and play solution.
Where else can you get a true 1000 HPS replacement for under 700 bucks? I wouldn't mind custom building some with 6 boards but in my opinion break even will be long on the 25 watts saved per fixture for the additional $150. Also being duct cooled the additional heat load saved ~11 watts isn't an issue anyways.

I will build what you want though. If you want 6 boards I have no problem with doing it. Lead time will be 1-2 weeks.

At the end of the day I want to give the customer what they want honestly.
 
robincnn

robincnn

Well-Known Member
1000ppm said:
Just curious with parallel wiring if 1 or 2 boards go down what happens?
Click to expand...
Depends on what fails on board.
each board has 8 rows. if 1 diodes gives up then you lose that row of diodes. rest will work.
If there is a physical damage to board and outer tracks breaks then the whole board will fail and any boards connected to it in parallel through the first board will not get power either.

If 4 boards are wired in parallel independently and 2 boards fail, then the other 2 boards will get double the current as long as driver can push the higher voltage needed by the other 2 boards to run at higher current.
 
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