You kick ass man thanks for all the details really! And I I will probably go that route so I can really see and learn myself hands on.. it'll be a fun skill to learn.. So basic high quality organic soil, perlite, castings and would it be okay to add some Nitrogen rich organic fertilizer or should I slowly let the castings and soil do there own thing? Then add the P and K's later but nothing to much like you said just 1 products? Maybe that wouldnt be needed either.. ever tried getting into korean natural farming?
Never did bokashi myself but I read a lot about it. My worms provide all the compost I need so I never really started an outdoor compost pile though I should. I had some excellent kimchee when I was over there if that counts lol.
Here's what I would do:
Get 2 or more bags of FFOF or equivalent decent grade garden soil & dump it into a tote bin or some kind of sturdy box to store soil preferably with a lid on loosely....add in some perlite & EWC and then you can build your first pots. If you are starting with seedlings add some coco to cut it down as it could be a little too hot. Start your plants in small containers & then with what you have left over in your bin you can add some extra N in the form of cow manure or I like Charlie's compost which is chicken manure. I would then add a handful of 5-5-5 happy frog and possibly some oyster flour which helps regulate ph. Let it set until your plants are ready to transplant; still doesn't need cooking yet.
Go from say a solo cup to maybe a 3 gal then into their final pot say a 5g on up to 10+ or more depending upon your space in your flower area. The idea is to keep giving the root zone fresh mix as the plants grow larger. When I get to building up the final size pot I plan to bloom in I will add a high N layer on the bottom of the pot:
Put a shovel or 2 of soil from your bin & mix in some manure and bat guano & sprinkle with oyster flour on top of that. Then add another shovel of soil as a barrier and then I place my root ball on that with some granular mycorrizea sprinkled on the roots to get the fungal symbiosis kick started. Then fill in the pot and mulch it to retain moisture. I would then add one or 2 jobes organic spikes & water it well. Eventually the roots will grow and find the bottom layer and take what it needs as it needs it. That should feed your plants through to week 8 with just water given. You may need to give calmag if you use RO water but that's the only bottle you should need.
Give your plants liquid fish and compost teas to keep them happy but once they are in bloom I tend to give just water unless they seem like they are getting very pale in color. The hi N layer and spikes should keep them green almost until they are done.
Once you harvest then you'll need to drop the root balls into the bin. I keep a tote bin for unamended soil for seedlings and cloned and another full of finished or cooking soil. Add the amemdments of your choice & this is where growers preferences come in. I would add at that time:
Oyster flour
5-5-5 happy frog fertilizer
Fish bone meal
Neem seed meal
Pure humic acid
Green sand
Blood meal
Soft rock phosphate
Azomite
Glacial rock dust
Garden gypsum
EWC
Perlite
Coco
Kelp meal
Alfalfa meal
Dolomite lime
And some green leaves from the last harvest
Mix well....Let it set for 30 days and the leaves will be gone; mix is now ready to use again. Ok I know that's a big shopping list but you don't even have to get everything or even add everything in every time. You can get away with half of these but you need mineral inputs, npk inputs and soil conditioners for total nutrition. I just listed what I usually add in small quantities maybe a handful of each per full tote bin of soil. If you want to know more get a book called True living organics by the rev which explains the methods I give you here. Sorry about the long ass post it's a big explanation & hope that helps you good luck happy growing
