Ro water to tap

Renfro

Well-Known Member
Shoot some pics of the setup, the works, all of it. I will tell you if it has an auto shutoff valve. PM them if you wish.

If you have a pressure tank filling, the back pressure increases the fuller it gets and the waste water increases in direct proportion. Using a permeate booster pump would not only fill the pressure tank faster, it would also limit the waste water that is produced. The one I linked has an auto shutoff that will also put more pressure/water in the tank versus stock w/o the booster pump.
 

Renfro

Well-Known Member
The first diagram shows how to implement the shutoff valve and if you have one you can pinpoint it's location by tracing the lines back from the membrane housing input.

ro diagram.PNG

You can also see how one would implement the permeate booster pump. Note we wouldn't use an alkaline post filter for growing.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
I mean just google WHER25. That's the system. Only difference is I have it tee'd off on the line going to the faucet which stays shut obviously, and it's routed to the holding tank.
 

Renfro

Well-Known Member
I mean just google WHER25. That's the system. Only difference is I have it tee'd off on the line going to the faucet which stays shut obviously, and it's routed to the holding tank.
I can see how that unit would keep running when the tank is full. Definitely would benefit from adding the auto shutoff valve to your system. The system you have is fine and wouldn't have any issues with the shutoff valve installation. Simply "insert" it between the RO membrane housings input from pre-filters and output to faucet/tank as shown in the first diagram in the image above.

If you were local I'd just give you one. I have a box of old filter parts that comes in handy from time to time.

If you were to go for a permeate booster pump, make sure to get their smaller size to match your system.

Something I found that I love on my filter is this flow meter.


It will let you know when the output flow rate drops and it's time to change pre-filters. You can meter how much water has been produced. It's just a handy little item, not required but handy. With this and an inline PPM meter you can tell at a glance if your filter is in order. Slow production rate indicates the pre-filters are toast and high output PPM means the membrane is toast.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
I can see how that unit would keep running when the tank is full. Definitely would benefit from adding the auto shutoff valve to your system. The system you have is fine and wouldn't have any issues with the shutoff valve installation. Simply "insert" it between the RO membrane housings input from pre-filters and output to faucet/tank as shown in the first diagram in the image above.

If you were local I'd just give you one. I have a box of old filter parts that comes in handy from time to time.

If you were to go for a permeate booster pump, make sure to get their smaller size to match your system.

Something I found that I love on my filter is this flow meter.


It will let you know when the output flow rate drops and it's time to change pre-filters. You can meter how much water has been produced. It's just a handy little item, not required but handy. With this and an inline PPM meter you can tell at a glance if your filter is in order. Slow production rate indicates the pre-filters are toast and high output PPM means the membrane is toast.
But there's no lines I can tap in to between the filters. It's all in that housing.
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
Been running ro water in my single tote dwc. So now with the Corona virus All the ro water is hard to find. So I checked our tap water and its 130ppm. Do you dwc growers think that it will be ok to use. If so how long do I need to leave 3 gallons with a bubble stone bubbling in it before I use it. Is it going to be ok for bennies. And also what about nutes and ppms. Do I use less calmag and keep the same ppms or use same nutes and go a little higher on ppms. It's at 800ppms now.
130ppm isn't that bad. With higher ppm water the best way to go is keep track of how much water you use to top up and once you've added back as much as the system holds it's time for a nute change. I always use RO water and it's odd they have run out as their machines are constantly refilling their holding tanks. If it's a bottle exchange type then for sure they could run out but two stores in our small town nearby have fill your own setups. I mostly never change nutes but try to right after the stretch and switch to Lucas Formula type feeding.

Tap water is in the order of 4 - 10ppm of either chorine or chloramine and that's not enough to hurt anything. I always keep an airstone bubbling in a jug of RO water to make sure it's charged with O2 and if you did that then you'd get rid of the chlorine. Smallest air pump at the pet store with a 6" or even smaller stone. I bought a nice little 50w aquarium heater that keeps the water at 75F which is great for soil grows but not for hydro.

Overnight will get rid of any free chlorine in the water and adding a bit of food grade peroxide will get rid of it faster.

Good luck!

:peace:
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
The first diagram shows how to implement the shutoff valve and if you have one you can pinpoint it's location by tracing the lines back from the membrane housing input.

View attachment 4513872

You can also see how one would implement the permeate booster pump. Note we wouldn't use an alkaline post filter for growing.
Great diagram @Renfro ! I might use the extra Covis money coming to by the parts I need to finally build my own RO system and get that UV sterilizer next time it's on sale at Canadian Tire for $199Can/$49.50US. ;)

I already have the 60psi booster pump with little pressure tank and a line running up to the kitchen sink hooked up to my Polar Bear distiller I'm going to refurbish and sell. Was $3000 new so should be worth a few bux. Previous owner of my house put it in when they built everything. I can use the 150L brine tank from the water softener that's on bypass for grow room RO storage. Might buy a food grade plastic 45gal drum from the local honey plant if they'll sell me one so I can have backup drinking water.

Got that pic saved and will print it out!

:peace:
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
Geez man... That adds up. A fecent system costs $120
If you're starting with potable water a $120 unit is fine but I need a bit more to make good RO from my dugout water. A UV sterilizer runs $250 on sale and I would want special filters that go down to 0.5 micron with a certain type of carbon. Can't remember which that is but can look it up again. Can't buy local so will need a case of 12 for around $200 for each type.

I've been meaning to do it but $18/week is barely noticeable compared to laying out close to a grand tho I know it would pay for itself in 6 months or less. Does add up tho so of course you're right about that.

:peace:
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
If you're starting with potable water a $120 unit is fine but I need a bit more to make good RO from my dugout water. A UV sterilizer runs $250 on sale and I would want special filters that go down to 0.5 micron with a certain type of carbon. Can't remember which that is but can look it up again. Can't buy local so will need a case of 12 for around $200 for each type.

I've been meaning to do it but $18/week is barely noticeable compared to laying out close to a grand tho I know it would pay for itself in 6 months or less. Does add up tho so of course you're right about that.

:peace:
Mine gets my 170ppm down to 0-10.
 

Bignutes

Well-Known Member
If you're starting with potable water a $120 unit is fine but I need a bit more to make good RO from my dugout water. A UV sterilizer runs $250 on sale and I would want special filters that go down to 0.5 micron with a certain type of carbon. Can't remember which that is but can look it up again. Can't buy local so will need a case of 12 for around $200 for each type.

I've been meaning to do it but $18/week is barely noticeable compared to laying out close to a grand tho I know it would pay for itself in 6 months or less. Does add up tho so of course you're right about that.

:peace:
What's wrong with your dugout? In your neck of the woods we drank dugout water, we got it tested and it was a higher quality than Red Deer and Edmonton water that was treated.
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
What's wrong with your dugout? In your neck of the woods we drank dugout water, we got it tested and it was a higher quality than Red Deer and Edmonton water that was treated.
My dugout is a living breathing ecosystem with frogs, tiny fish and all sorts of life in it. Usually have 5 or 6 families of ducks in there every summer. It's no barren hole in the ground. An old borrow pit from when they built the highway that goes past my house early last century. Plus it's surrounded on two sides by a field used to grow GMO canola most years and one grain or another once in a while. All sorts of sprays used that leach into or drift over the dugout. I have a feud going on with the a-hole who owns the land beside me. He will pay eventually. ;)

:peace:
 

Bignutes

Well-Known Member
Yeah makes sense, our runoff was from a hay field that we sprayed once in 30 years and a 1/4 section of bush. I didn't mind the ducks, frogs, we even had fish but we'd shoot the muskrats and beavers. I bet that would be great water for the plants, my folks plants grew like crazy out there.
 
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