Roseman and purpdaddys guide for my Bubbleponics setup from Stealth Hydroponics

My grow tent wasn't ventilating properly in the beginning and the temp was getting to the high 80's so i know the res water was getting hot.. If i drain a gallon of water and add a fresh gallon of cold water will that mess anything up?
 

merahoon

Well-Known Member
I ended up pulling my tubes through the tank and weaved them in and out of the roots so I didn't have to mess with them. Starting on day 15 from sprout and am already pushing out 7 nodes ;). I love this machine!!!
 

MostlyCrazy

New Member
Won't mess things up but the temp will return to the elevated temps in short order. I've done frozen soda bottles in teh res but I recently heard some people talk about root shock if the roots come in direct contact with the frozen bottles but that never happened to me. I attributed that to the fact that I run max air in the res and it's hard to shock it with things moving so fast in the res.

Another way I've heard of is to sort of line the outside of the res with the frozen water bottles. Either way air movement around the res is what you want.

Here is a post I say on another thread from a fellow grower named funkydope about some good insulating tape that might help.


Here is what I did. I am using 5 gal buckets, with air stones and a sub pump. I put my air pumps outside my grow tent. But my rez temps would still creep because of ambient heat inside the tent. Since I'm a little bit of a car buff; I thought I would take a concept for cooling my engine and see if I could apply it to Hydro. So I took some Thermo Tec tape (used for wrapping headers and other things to keep radiant heat out) and wrapped my buckets with that. Now I have almost no temp creeping at all. When I put in 65 degree water...it may rise 1 degree during the day...but that's it! Here is a link to some on ebay....fairly cheep too... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/THERM...Q5fAccessories
__________________
 
Thats a good idea for insulating, im gonna get some of that tape. Im gonna put a frozen water bottle in my res too cause i have 2 airstones so it should keep it circulated like u said... I noticed a slight red mark on one of my fan leaves i think it might be rust, so i drained my tank and put fresh cool water, Im gonna flush it over the night then add only half the nutes. Rust is from overfeeding right/
 

MostlyCrazy

New Member
Yes rust can be but one red mark may a bit early to react. Slow down and confirm your ideas before reacting. Things don't happen in nature too fast and they shouldn't in a grower's garden either. Just don't want you to guess wrong and make it worse. New growers get like this so you must just be normal! LOL!
 

Roseman

Elite Rolling Society
My grow tent wasn't ventilating properly in the beginning and the temp was getting to the high 80's so i know the res water was getting hot.. If i drain a gallon of water and add a fresh gallon of cold water will that mess anything up?

Good idea, yes, drain out a hot gallon and add a cool gallon back.

To get the temp down and the humidity up, try these:

You need a fan pulling heat out and a fan pulling cool air in.

You have to have an oscilating fan on the plants.
Lay wet rolled up like a cigar wash rags everywhere.
Hang a soaking wet bath towel on a cloths hanger and let it drip into a pan or bucket.
Put a frozen milk jug of water in front of a fan or let it drip into something by putting a pin hole in it.
Get a bucket, put ice in it or frozen water and blow a fan into the bucket, blowing cool air everywhere. And you can put Pine Sol or ONA in the bucket for Odor Control.

Put saucers and cups of water everywhere.
Mist the plants with plain pH water.

Put Frozen cups of water on the lids and everywhere around the plants.
 

Roseman

Elite Rolling Society
Dystopia wrote this and posted it and said I could re-post it:



The best range that your reservoir can be between is 60F-75F. Ideally the reservoir temperature should be at 65F because this level contains the most oxygen.
__________________Once again, great info Roseman!

I've got some tips and tricks for controlling reservoir temps...

First, insulating your res really helps stabilize the temps. Wrap mylar or insulation around it; I build my reservoirs out of ice coolers (attachment 1).

I used to put blue ice bags in the res if the temps started to rise, but I can no longer recommend putting ice in the root zone. During my last grow I did this, and the plant closest to where I put the ice definitely didn't like it; it ended up stunted and there was a bald spot in the root zone where the ice went. And as the root mass grows there's generally not enough room to stick ice bottles in the res anyways.

If you want to use ice to cool the res you might want to try the following ideas:

1. I jury-rigged some quart and half-gallon jugs using drip line and a drip-line shut-off valve (attachment 2). What I do is freeze them overnight and then stick the line in a hole on top of the res in the morning (attachment 3). This serves a few purposes: 1) provides a slow flow of cold water to the res throughout the day, so the roots aren't shocked by a rapid change in temperature; 2) keeps the res topped off; and 3) serves as a ghetto A/C for the grow area. The main disadvantage is condensation; I have to keep a rag under the jug to soak up water.

2. I built a semi-recirculating DWC for my latest grow (water pump is on a timer). Basically, I have a separate reservoir that is connected to my plant reservoirs via plumbing and a pump. I'm doing this for several reasons: 1) one thing I hate about DWC is that you generally have to lift the lid to do any maintenance in the res - a separate res allows you to easily do maintenance without disturbing the plant reservoirs; 2) I'm planning on doing a ScrOG - once the plants are in the screen lifting the lids becomes problematic; 4) more water means that things like temperature, ph, and nutrient concentration are more stable; and 3) if I need to cool the reservoirs I can put ice in the shared res without worrying about the roots. The main disadvantages are complexity, size of system, and more nute usage.

Some other ideas:

1. Put your air pump in a cool area. It seems like most people put their pump on top of the reservoir under the lights. If it is hot where you put the pump, then you're going to be pumping hot air into the res. I try to put mine outside the grow area if possible, or as close to the inlet as possible.

2. Direct some airflow from the inlet over the res using a fan.

3. If you use a humidifier like what Roseman recommends try directing the air from the outlet over the res using a fan. Acts kind of like a swamp cooler; I've found it lowers the temp over my res by about 5*.

4. Running a water pump continuously in the res will cause the temps to rise. I think I have a good idea how the stealth hydro system works, for instance, and I can certainly see the advantages of it during the early stages of growth. However, once the roots are in the water I'm not sure if running the pump continuously is necessary - maybe one of you users can help me out. If it was me, I would put the pump on a timer and run it kind of like an ebb and flow once the roots are in the water - like for 10 minutes 5 times a day - IDK.

Of course, like Roseman says, the best way is to keep your room temp down if you can. 75* is out of the question for me, it costs too much to keep my A/C running all day at 70*, especially since no one's home anyways. I keep my A/C at 80*, and my grow room at 85*.
Attached Thumbnails
 

Roseman

Elite Rolling Society
a personal friend named Mogie gave this to me.

Topping a Plant

1. Locate the very top of your plant and cut through the main stem just below the newest growth. This should be done after the 3rd or 4th leaf set but can be done at any time after the 3rd leaf set.

2. Shows Plant Top cut off and where the 2 new Branches that will form a "Y" in the main stem will grow from.

3. Shows the newly topped plant after 2 days of growth, notice the Y in the Stem Forming.





FIMMING A PLANT!

Fimming is actually no different that topping, what fimming does is virtually the exact same thing only your leaving part of the new growth. This only takes of part of the new growth and actually topping the very very new growth which is very hard to see.

What this ends up doing is making it seem as if your getting 4 new tops right next to eachother when its actually only 2 at the very top (like topping) but since it was cut so closely to the next newest set of fanleaves 2 branches which would have formed there anyways seems to make it look like there is 4 new tops.

This is how you go about doing this.

1. Locate the very top of the new growth




2. With a clean sterilized scissors, Fold the fan leafs over and cut approximately 80% of the new growth off the plant.





3. View from the top showing the Cut




4. View of the Cut section after 2 days growth, showing the 4 new growth shoots (branches)

 

mercerc

Member
Great information in this thread. Thank you, it's been very helpful. However, I feel I must express my frustration with Stealth Hydro. My transaction with this company has been filled with headaches.

The company is completely unresponsive once they have your money. My system hadn't arrived in 3 weeks, I call the company and they tell me that they were wanting for me to call them about some billing mix up, which turned out to be completely incorrect. Instead of calling me and informing me there was an issue, they just waited. So, after that mix up it was due in 3 days. 10 days later, I call them up and it's sitting in the shipping area still. I tell the gentleman on the phone that this is unprofessional and I should be compensated something for this mix up. They offer me extra nutrients. I accept. It shows up 5 days later, no extra nutrients.

I measure the nutrient packs to get an idea of the process I'll be performing every 10 days, all the nutrient packages are drastically different weights. I took the mean and repackaged everything myself. The pH controllers were unresponsive and f I used thee recommended dosage the pH was completely off.

I spent a total of 2 weeks trying to get their products to work properly. When I emailed their company with my problems their response was "Never had a problem with them." Mind you, I used this form as my trouble shooter.

To sum it all up, I went to the local hydro store and bought different nutrients and different pH controllers. I was up and running in 24 hours.



Also, this system is extremely easy to make as a DIY!!!!!!!! Do not buy the actual system, it's way too over priced. Maybe buy their lights (if they ever show up).
 

merahoon

Well-Known Member
Yeah in my opinion, its a total waste of money to buy through them. I made a DIY bubbleponic system for less then half the price of what their charging. It only took me a day to assemble too.
 

Roseman

Elite Rolling Society
Great information in this thread. Thank you, it's been very helpful. However, I feel I must express my frustration with Stealth Hydro. My transaction with this company has been filled with headaches.

The company is completely unresponsive once they have your money. My system hadn't arrived in 3 weeks, I call the company and they tell me that they were wanting for me to call them about some billing mix up, which turned out to be completely incorrect. Instead of calling me and informing me there was an issue, they just waited. So, after that mix up it was due in 3 days. 10 days later, I call them up and it's sitting in the shipping area still. I tell the gentleman on the phone that this is unprofessional and I should be compensated something for this mix up. They offer me extra nutrients. I accept. It shows up 5 days later, no extra nutrients.

I measure the nutrient packs to get an idea of the process I'll be performing every 10 days, all the nutrient packages are drastically different weights. I took the mean and repackaged everything myself. The pH controllers were unresponsive and f I used thee recommended dosage the pH was completely off.

I spent a total of 2 weeks trying to get their products to work properly. When I emailed their company with my problems their response was "Never had a problem with them." Mind you, I used this form as my trouble shooter.

To sum it all up, I went to the local hydro store and bought different nutrients and different pH controllers. I was up and running in 24 hours.



Also, this system is extremely easy to make as a DIY!!!!!!!! Do not buy the actual system, it's way too over priced. Maybe buy their lights (if they ever show up).

Did you think this was the right thread to post that negative crap?
 

Roseman

Elite Rolling Society
Yeah in my opinion, its a total waste of money to buy through them. I made a DIY bubbleponic system for less then half the price of what their charging. It only took me a day to assemble too.



Did you think this was the right thread to post that negative crap?

Why are ya displaying thier 10% discount logo then?
 
I

Illegal Smile

Guest
"Their" logo? The bubbleheads logo is stealth hydro's logo? Is it ok to post business logos on riu?
 

purpdaddy

Well-Known Member
"Their" logo? The bubbleheads logo is stealth hydro's logo? Is it ok to post business logos on riu?
The bubblehead logo was made by bubbleads for bubbleheads.stealth hydro HD nothing to do with the making of the logo?
Are u looking for another dispute or argument?this is not the place to even ask a question like that ? We speak on JUST growing pot in here and not any BS.this is a hydrponic teaching thread I would like to keep it that way
 

merahoon

Well-Known Member
Did you think this was the right thread to post that negative crap?

Why are ya displaying thier 10% discount logo then?

Didn't mean to offend you. I was simply agreeing with the gentlemen above me because I think its stupid how much they charge for a few supplies you could go buy at home depot.

I was displaying this logo because it was created by bubbleheads not stealth hydro.

I'll bring my "negative crap" elsewhere.
 

MostlyCrazy

New Member
Some can make and some can't. I needed to pay for a premade to get me headed in the right direction. The SH system was what I decided on because it had everything I needed for my particular space. It is described as a starter system. I call it my go to system because I know exactly how it works, why it works and what not to try with it.
 
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