SMG's Guerrilla Outdoor '09
- Thread starter submachinegun
- Start date
submachinegun
Well-Known Member
I took a small sample tonight from my most mature outdoor girl, fuck! I've been high for hours. It's also remarkably smooth to be quick dried. Outdoor is the shit, never fails to taste 20x better than indo imo. Can't wait to smoke this bitch at peak potency! just a few more weeks. 
I also took pics, but I used a different camera and can't find the cord to USB.
I also took pics, but I used a different camera and can't find the cord to USB.
submachinegun
Well-Known Member
Back to you. Doing what I can while penned down in the concrete jungle.
Next year I will take it to the countryside and get out of the city limits, and grow some true monsters.
submachinegun
Well-Known Member
Darkstreets
Well-Known Member
love it man keep them pics coming !!!!!
theloadeddragon
Well-Known Member
looks scrumptious!
submachinegun
Well-Known Member
I'm getting some dark brown necrosis on some of my leaves, affecting 4 of my indoor plants. it's almost like the necrosis that comes with Mg def, but without the chlorosis. Any ideas? I'll get a pic here in a bit.
theloadeddragon
Well-Known Member
Mature Leaf Chlorosis and Necrosis
Deficiencies of the nutrients nitrogen, phosphorus,
Deficiencies of the nutrients nitrogen, phosphorus,
potassium, and magnesium result in chlorosis (yellowing)
and eventual necrosis (death) of older mature
leaves. These nutrients are mobile elements that can be
translocated from older to new leaves if their supply from
the soil becomes limited and the young leaves become
deficient in them. This translocation depletes the older
leaves of these essential nutrients, leading to chlorosis
and necrosis.
Diagnosing these nutrient deficiencies can be difficult
because many other problems can cause similar
symptoms. The practical approach to mature leaf chlorosis
is to be certain of the cause of the problem before
attempting to solve it.
Anything that causes damage to the roots can cause
chlorosis in older leaves. Damage to the roots can be
caused by nematodes, insects, diseases, herbicides such
as Roundup
and eventual necrosis (death) of older mature
leaves. These nutrients are mobile elements that can be
translocated from older to new leaves if their supply from
the soil becomes limited and the young leaves become
deficient in them. This translocation depletes the older
leaves of these essential nutrients, leading to chlorosis
and necrosis.
Diagnosing these nutrient deficiencies can be difficult
because many other problems can cause similar
symptoms. The practical approach to mature leaf chlorosis
is to be certain of the cause of the problem before
attempting to solve it.
Anything that causes damage to the roots can cause
chlorosis in older leaves. Damage to the roots can be
caused by nematodes, insects, diseases, herbicides such
as Roundup
® (Fig. 1), excess salinity (Fig. 2), drought,
mon examples are lauae fern (Fig. 5), psittacorum
heliconia, and kupukupu fern. Many hedge plants such
as privet, natal plum, bougainvillea (Fig. 6), and hibiscus
are planted close together to provide instant landscaping.
That is okay if the excess plants are removed
later, but that is rarely done. The result, again, is an imbalance
between the top growth and the root system.
Advanced symptoms of salinity damage often occur
because the early symptoms of salinity are not detected.
The fertilizer formulations used are often too concentrated
(too high in their elemental analysis), and calibration
of application equipment is rarely done. In some
nursery greenhouses, almost every species grown shows
various stages of salinity damage. Many landscape nurseries
often have plants suffering from salinity.
Plants grown in a nursery under lower light conditions
than occur at the eventual landscape site may show
leaf damage after being outplanted. Mature leaves cannot
adapt to a change of light conditions. New leaves
will adapt to whatever the light conditions are. Leaves
grown under high-light conditions are thicker and capable
of utilizing greater amounts of nutrients applied
as fertilizer than leaves grown under shade conditions,
which will be thinner and not able to utilize much fertilizer.
Generally, indoor plant companies thoroughly leach
the medium of plants bought at nurseries. The rule of
thumb is that plants to be maintained indoors need onetenth
the amount of fertilizer as plants grown in a nursery.
Ethylene gas, generated from air pollution or naturally
from plants under stress, can cause chlorosis and
leaf, flower, or bud abscission (drop).
and flooding. The symptom can also occur naturally as
the top-growth outgrows the root system, or competition
occurs between plants for soil nutrients. When tip
cuttings lacking roots are planted, similar symptoms may
occur (Fig. 3).
Trees such as the rainbow shower tree commonly
outgrow their root system (Fig. 4). Their leaves turn dull
green, then chlorotic, and fall, resulting in a straggly
look that is not aesthetically pleasing. This balance between
the top-growth and the root system is a very important
concept in landscaping, where aesthetics are
important.
Many groundcovers that multiply by division often
multiply to a point that each plant no longer has sufficient
space to develop an adequate root system. Com-
the top-growth outgrows the root system, or competition
occurs between plants for soil nutrients. When tip
cuttings lacking roots are planted, similar symptoms may
occur (Fig. 3).
Trees such as the rainbow shower tree commonly
outgrow their root system (Fig. 4). Their leaves turn dull
green, then chlorotic, and fall, resulting in a straggly
look that is not aesthetically pleasing. This balance between
the top-growth and the root system is a very important
concept in landscaping, where aesthetics are
important.
Many groundcovers that multiply by division often
multiply to a point that each plant no longer has sufficient
space to develop an adequate root system. Com-
mon examples are lauae fern (Fig. 5), psittacorum
heliconia, and kupukupu fern. Many hedge plants such
as privet, natal plum, bougainvillea (Fig. 6), and hibiscus
are planted close together to provide instant landscaping.
That is okay if the excess plants are removed
later, but that is rarely done. The result, again, is an imbalance
between the top growth and the root system.
Advanced symptoms of salinity damage often occur
because the early symptoms of salinity are not detected.
The fertilizer formulations used are often too concentrated
(too high in their elemental analysis), and calibration
of application equipment is rarely done. In some
nursery greenhouses, almost every species grown shows
various stages of salinity damage. Many landscape nurseries
often have plants suffering from salinity.
Plants grown in a nursery under lower light conditions
than occur at the eventual landscape site may show
leaf damage after being outplanted. Mature leaves cannot
adapt to a change of light conditions. New leaves
will adapt to whatever the light conditions are. Leaves
grown under high-light conditions are thicker and capable
of utilizing greater amounts of nutrients applied
as fertilizer than leaves grown under shade conditions,
which will be thinner and not able to utilize much fertilizer.
Generally, indoor plant companies thoroughly leach
the medium of plants bought at nurseries. The rule of
thumb is that plants to be maintained indoors need onetenth
the amount of fertilizer as plants grown in a nursery.
Ethylene gas, generated from air pollution or naturally
from plants under stress, can cause chlorosis and
leaf, flower, or bud abscission (drop).
submachinegun
Well-Known Member
submachinegun
Well-Known Member
it's getting worse! gonna have to figure this shit out asap.
theloadeddragon
Well-Known Member
just looks hungry for a full feeding to me...... necrosis won't dissipate.... its there for good...... have you switched the lighting at all?
submachinegun
Well-Known Member
no, no changes in lighting. I think it's some sort of nute burn actually. maybe from nute build up burning in the leaves. It didn't show until I foliar fed with a light solution of Mg & Cal + Nitrogen. Well, hours later I noticed some clawing so I'm pretty sure that's what it is now. I'm just going to monitor it and back off on the foliar feeding and just let the soil do it's thing. Leaves are green and lush as can be, some even blue dark, so I'm gonna go water / water / feed this next go round.
theloadeddragon
Well-Known Member
ahh I see
what nutes are you using....
how long have you had them
how do you store them
how often do you shake your bottle nice a good?
what nutes are you using....
how long have you had them
how do you store them
how often do you shake your bottle nice a good?
submachinegun
Well-Known Member
As of now It's just been MagiCal. (2-0-0), Mg + Iron + Cal. One half strength feeding so far via watering about 4 days ago. I foliar fed them yesterday and the spots were the result, literally hours later. My nutes are stored in a dark, dry cabinet. Plenty of shelf life remaining. And I shake that shit like a piggy bank every time I use it.
theloadeddragon
Well-Known Member
yep
foliar feeding Cal.
I don't recomend it
you should be fine
give a shower
foliar feeding Cal.
I don't recomend it
you should be fine
give a shower
ZEN MASTER
Well-Known Member
what up sub. just thought i'd stop by an see what you are working with, ZEN likey. will be keeping check to see how things end up with that monster you have there.
PEACE!!!
-ZEN-
PEACE!!!
-ZEN-