So I took the plunge!

tusseltussel

tusseltussel

Well-Known Member
A couple months ago I got ahold of a 5 pack of space bomb and been keeping them safe for awhile now. Yesterday I got what I needed for a half batch of super soil. Today I mixed up my first ever batch of super soil. I must say that shit looks awesome, I cant wait to use it. I got about 60 days until I will need it so I got it in a can hanging out in my greenhouse. I must say it again this stuff looks great. I am not sure I have ever felt this way about soil before. I have no questions I am just so damn giddy I had to tell someone about it.
 
grownbykane

grownbykane

Active Member
I know that feeling bro. sometimes I grab a handful of my soil and let it fall through my fingers for no particular reason at all.
 
Californicater

Californicater

Active Member
I mixed my soil like 5 days ago. Already have a micro web forming, I nearly turned a cart wheel. I cant wait to get some plants in this. I have some clones 15d into veg I am going to throw into the half cooked SS as a test before I run my TGA beans. I want to see what the SS does with genetics I have been running before I decide to stop using the strain or not.
 
tusseltussel

tusseltussel

Well-Known Member
Californicater said:
I mixed my soil like 5 days ago. Already have a micro web forming, I nearly turned a cart wheel. I cant wait to get some plants in this. I have some clones 15d into veg I am going to throw into the half cooked SS as a test before I run my TGA beans. I want to see what the SS does with genetics I have been running before I decide to stop using the strain or not.
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I'm with ya on that, wellnot the cart wheels I would most definitely break. I have one going into flower one going into veg and the next run after that will be in super soil well maybe I can work it into the one going in to veg next when it goes in it's final pot
 
Californicater

Californicater

Active Member
Here is the question I have about SS. Should you feed it while it is stored to retain the charge? The mycorrhizal and BB are alive. In the pots they will feed on the carbohydrates we add. Molasses acts as a chelating agent keeping the mycorrhrobes and BB stable and feeding the trace elements they need to propagate. So, in like 3 or 6 or 12 months who knows how long this 100+gal of soil will be sitting around. Should I hit it with molasses water to keep harmony, keep all the microscopic stuff that makes this soil work alive? It takes time for molasses in the soil to break down anyway so why not add it early? IDK, just something I have been bouncing around in my head, would love some feedback.
 
tusseltussel

tusseltussel

Well-Known Member
Californicater said:
Here is the question I have about SS. Should you feed it while it is stored to retain the charge? The mycorrhizal and BB are alive. In the pots they will feed on the carbohydrates we add. Molasses acts as a chelating agent keeping the mycorrhrobes and BB stable and feeding the trace elements they need to propagate. So, in like 3 or 6 or 12 months who knows how long this 100+gal of soil will be sitting around. Should I hit it with molasses water to keep harmony, keep all the microscopic stuff that makes this soil work alive? It takes time for molasses in the soil to break down anyway so why not add it early? IDK, just something I have been bouncing around in my head, would love some feedback.
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Good question, I think I read recently where subcool had it sitting around for well over year.sounded like it was fine... I made a half batch, filled a45 gallon trash can. That will lastt me 2 years probably
 
jaydub13

jaydub13

Well-Known Member
Californicater said:
Here is the question I have about SS. Should you feed it while it is stored to retain the charge? The mycorrhizal and BB are alive. In the pots they will feed on the carbohydrates we add. Molasses acts as a chelating agent keeping the mycorrhrobes and BB stable and feeding the trace elements they need to propagate. So, in like 3 or 6 or 12 months who knows how long this 100+gal of soil will be sitting around. Should I hit it with molasses water to keep harmony, keep all the microscopic stuff that makes this soil work alive? It takes time for molasses in the soil to break down anyway so why not add it early? IDK, just something I have been bouncing around in my head, would love some feedback.
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I believe the micro herd/colonies just go dormant when their food source is unable to sustain growth...until they are put into action via food source like sugars. For example in a natural soil profile, beneficials slow down and become dormant through winter. They are mostly only damaged by chemicals or tillage, and have to re-estaish themselves.
 
tusseltussel

tusseltussel

Well-Known Member
my web is forming and I han't even put it in the greenhouse to keep warm ended up being too heavy... 45gal. trash can filled to the top ... nights been in the upper 20s and that shit is kickin along
 
Rising Moon

Rising Moon

Well-Known Member
grownbykane said:
I know that feeling bro. sometimes I grab a handful of my soil and let it fall through my fingers for no particular reason at all.
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I do the same in my garden all the time.

It makes me REALLY happy to put my hands in the soil I helped create.

Especially in the outdoor garden, dealing with the real earth, it feels so good to see my soil turn into black, rich, life filled goodness.

The smell of fertile organic soil after a late summer rain shower... Unbeatable.
 
tusseltussel

tusseltussel

Well-Known Member
I love the smell of a fresh plowed/disced field in the spring, bout to go do an 8 acre field as soon as it dries out enough... after I disc it up I like to lay out my rows by goung accross with a middle buster where each row is then I run over it with a manure spreader filled with the years compost then I go over it with a 1 ow cultivator to pull the soil back over the compost and hill it up a bit...mmmmmmmmmmm tastey
 
Rising Moon

Rising Moon

Well-Known Member
Nice.

I do a small scale 1/2 acre intensive vegetable garden. All permenent raised earth beds, no till, only surface cultivation, plus top dressed compost ect.

Have you ever planted clover in your foot paths between rows?

Its really great once established, plus keeps the weeds down and fixes nitrogen.
 
tusseltussel

tusseltussel

Well-Known Member
I have not but sounds great I tell you what, I met a guy over the winter that lays out his rows in december and plants winter rye between them then in the summer it grows up rapidly but then dies off in the high heat around june so it acts as a great mulch.
Rising Moon said:
Nice.

I do a small scale 1/2 acre intensive vegetable garden. All permenent raised earth beds, no till, only surface cultivation, plus top dressed compost ect.

Have you ever planted clover in your foot paths between rows?

Its really great once established, plus keeps the weeds down and fixes nitrogen.
Click to expand...
 
tusseltussel

tusseltussel

Well-Known Member
I also took a class with Ray archuleta you can find it on youtube, he is now planting a cereal rye then going over it with a roller crimper that kills it and flattens it down then no till plants right into it.... they got a 20% increase in corn production over conventional methods with no added ferts or herbacides... pretty cool shit... I run a small CSA if you know what that is..... not confederate states of america.....

we farm about 3 acres at a time rotating around from field to field while 6 are in covr crops 3 get farmed
 
hotrodharley

hotrodharley

Well-Known Member
tusseltussel said:
I love the smell of a fresh plowed/disced field in the spring, bout to go do an 8 acre field as soon as it dries out enough... after I disc it up I like to lay out my rows by goung accross with a middle buster where each row is then I run over it with a manure spreader filled with the years compost then I go over it with a 1 ow cultivator to pull the soil back over the compost and hill it up a bit...mmmmmmmmmmm tastey
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No rotospike? You still use a moldboard plow to turn deep?
 
Rising Moon

Rising Moon

Well-Known Member
tusseltussel said:
I have not but sounds great I tell you what, I met a guy over the winter that lays out his rows in december and plants winter rye between them then in the summer it grows up rapidly but then dies off in the high heat around june so it acts as a great mulch.
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Really cool. I've done something similar with winter killed oats/buckwheat/soybeans. If you get a really good stand by early September, they will simply die with the fall frosts. And by next spring, you've got mulched beds ready for squash or watermelons, plus the winter killed rotted down soybeans/buckwheat provide all the nitrogen, Ca, K and other goodies they gathered the previous year.

I really enjoy figuring out all this cover crop/green manure stuff, and trying to incorporate it into a no till system makes things more complicated. But winter killed and undersown green manures are IMO the BEST way to improve the soil in every way.

Soil Tilth, organic matter, drought resistance, humus creation and mineral fixation. dosent get much better than that!
 
tusseltussel

tusseltussel

Well-Known Member
only to break new land I will use a moldboard plow. I seen them roto spaders those things are pretty awesome but they come with a hefty price tag not sure if thats what you mean by rotospike. I use what I have and get by ok
hotrodharley said:
No rotospike? You still use a moldboard plow to turn deep?
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tusseltussel

tusseltussel

Well-Known Member
I have thought about doing it with vetch, letting it winter kill then rolling it down, it can be tough sometimes though with our season running up until thanksgiving and then in january it's time to start seed to plant...now, I planted about 1200 onions so faar this week and have about 1200 more variouse plants to go in this week
Rising Moon said:
Really cool. I've done something similar with winter killed oats/buckwheat/soybeans. If you get a really good stand by early September, they will simply die with the fall frosts. And by next spring, you've got mulched beds ready for squash or watermelons, plus the winter killed rotted down soybeans/buckwheat provide all the nitrogen, Ca, K and other goodies they gathered the previous year.

I really enjoy figuring out all this cover crop/green manure stuff, and trying to incorporate it into a no till system makes things more complicated. But winter killed and undersown green manures are IMO the BEST way to improve the soil in every way.

Soil Tilth, organic matter, drought resistance, humus creation and mineral fixation. dosent get much better than that!
Click to expand...
 
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