Taking the plunge: HP Aero Drain to Waste

I insulated my aero totes while the youngsters are dropping roots over in the DWC tote.

Here is some "Insulation porn":

CAM00062.jpgCAM00060.jpgCAM00061.jpgCAM00059.jpgCAM00058.jpg

Bubble wrap insulation.... nectar of the Gods!

They are nice and tightly wrapped. Between the insulation and the chiller I should be able to keep temps inside the totes nice and cool.
 
veg NPK would be about 5-1.5-4 nice ballpark ratio. For solenoids, I got mine from ebay and paid very cheap, there are so many but you can get them for like $10 I recall? Or maybe use sprinkler ones?
 
squarepush3r said:
veg NPK would be about 5-1.5-4 nice ballpark ratio. For solenoids, I got mine from ebay and paid very cheap, there are so many but you can get them for like $10 I recall? Or maybe use sprinkler ones?
Click to expand...

I'm going to run fatmans drain to waste bloom, if I recall the numbers are around 4-1.3-5. Hard to look it up on this phone :-) He based his formula off tissue samples he had tested running his medium pressure Aero system. I found some solenoids on a water purification site. Would have to adapt them to 1/4 inch john guest fittings. Will keep looking on eBay though, the ones I found were a little pricey.


Good to see your still around, did you ever use any of fatmans fert recipes?
 
My last 2 hpa grows were by far my best in an 18G tote- almost comparable to My DIY 21st Century F & D, but no where near as efficient- too much waste runoff without proper timing, as can only be gotten with an accumulator

I used 2 heads in early veg, 4 heads until finished.

3 seconds wet, and 3-4 minutes dry. One week here can be 60* the next week 80*s +, the back to 60s, which is not conducive to hpa. It requires (demands?) stable ambient temps/RH

I determined cycles by placing the back of my hand lightly against the root mass.

Never 'starved' them, an uneducated notion.

I also tried 23 seconds on, which is the lowest setting on my analog timer. It essentially soaked them. The reason why DWC CAN work is only when the user has boat loads of bubbles in the nutes, otherwise the roots look like overcooked spaghetti. There are plenty of riu photos showing them

Here is my last hpa roots. Grate added to keep roots off bottom. They also can be trimmed without harm. The true hpa growers can tell you, they're pretty close

IMG_1136.jpgIMG_1134.jpg
 
if you have to much trouble finding it let met know i have it written down, im having trouble finding it as well.

. im actually talking to him at the moment on another site.i just pmed him what his current formula is so if he tells me ill tell you.

it sounds to me like unless your running co2 dehumidification and high temps, and mad light, like you can cut the potassium down,
as transpiration wont be at the level where that kind of potassium is needed

his numbers for that formula were (ppm)

N 400
P 100
K 449
mg 50
ca125
S 66
FE 10.0
mn 5.0
B 5.0
ZN 5.0
Cu 1.0
moly 0.09
 
PetFlora said:
My last 2 hpa grows were by far my best in an 18G tote- almost comparable to My DIY 21st Century F & D, but no where near as efficient- too much waste runoff without proper timing, as can only be gotten with an accumulator

I used 2 heads in early veg, 4 heads until finished.

3 seconds wet, and 3-4 minutes dry. One week here can be 60* the next week 80*s +, the back to 60s, which is not conducive to hpa. It requires (demands?) stable ambient temps/RH

I determined cycles by placing the back of my hand lightly against the root mass.

Never 'starved' them, an uneducated notion.

I also tried 23 seconds on, which is the lowest setting on my analog timer. It essentially soaked them. The reason why DWC CAN work is only when the user has boat loads of bubbles in the nutes, otherwise the roots look like overcooked spaghetti. There are plenty of riu photos showing them

Here is my last hpa roots. Grate added to keep roots off bottom. They also can be trimmed without harm. The true hpa growers can tell you, they're pretty close

View attachment 2475808View attachment 2475809
Click to expand...


Awesome info! Love the grate idea, pun intended. Fortunately where I live it rarely frosts and rarely gets over 75 degrees in the summer. My basement is unheated so it hovers between 60 in the winter and 70 in the summer. That shouldn't be a problem. The timer I am using has on settings between .5 seconds to over a minute. Should be good for my experiment.

I'm thinking 6 - 8 seconds on, and a couple minutes off. I will adjust as needed. I will err on the side of caution this time around. Who knows what the future holds :)
 
oxanaca said:
if you have to much trouble finding it let met know i have it written down, im having trouble finding it as well.

. im actually talking to him at the moment on another site.i just pmed him what his current formula is so if he tells me ill tell you.

it sounds to me like unless your running co2 dehumidification and high temps, and mad light, like you can cut the potassium down,
as transpiration wont be at the level where that kind of potassium is needed

his numbers for that formula were (ppm)

N 400
P 100
K 449
mg 50
ca125
S 66
FE 10.0
mn 5.0
B 5.0
ZN 5.0
Cu 1.0
moly 0.09
Click to expand...

What I would like to know is does his formula take into account the increased need for mg after the stretch period is over.

I have his original drain to waste aero formula bookmarked somewhere, will find and post it later.
 
 
Like to set the record right I am in no Means a expert never claimed to be. I just know what I have tried and what has failed any info I give is from my own experience. I can honestly say I have {One} of the best aero rigs on this forum it may even rate the top five who knows or cares. I have struggled and failed many times in all the experiments. If I did know everything I sure would not need to pick many brains on the forums. Good luck to all of you I really mean this. Without all of use trying to improve growing technics we would be dirt baggers.
 
the one problem with fats recipe is it uses ammonium nitrate. which im not sure how to get ahold of thanks to terrorists.
 
hammer21 said:
Thank you TB and Pet you two have influenced my projects bad news is my wife hates you two LOL
Click to expand...

Don't blame it on me. I was trying to talk you out of it :mrgreen:

Although, if my environment was similar to yours, I may have conquered the demons :fire: even without an accumulator set up, which is no guarantee either as soleniods are defective, or low tolerances, bladders in accumulators go flat and crack over time, etc
 
oxanaca said:
interesting just bought a variety pack of 6 different chemicals, two weeks ago. and thats where my experience begun.
i made A+B of this guys recipe and its doing well in my coir

https://www.thcfarmer.com/community...l-or-my-thread-can-beat-up-your-thread.45906/

my plants look really good, for what theyve been thru ive had to move them 3 times.

any idea where
Click to expand...

Making the fertilizer is easy. The trick is mixing the chemicals in the right order. Once you have that part down your fertilizer bill drops by 80% and you are able to use formulas specific to what you are doing. It's a beautiful thing.
 
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