The Budologist's 2012 Outdoor Grow (TGA Forest)

yo no offense but that conserve sc appears to just be overly expensive spinosad :shock:. it may be a little bit more concentrated but i dont think the price compared to jacks spinosad is justified. just my two cents even though it wont matter now sense you've already purchased it.
 
keepitcoastal said:
yo no offense but that conserve sc appears to just be overly expensive spinosad :shock:. it may be a little bit more concentrated but i dont think the price compared to jacks spinosad is justified. just my two cents even though it wont matter now sense you've already purchased it.
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before you start throwing your opinion around try investigating the facts. 3ml per gallon with a quart of product means budologist will have spinosad for multiple seasons.

for the record captain jack requires 60 ml per gallon!! care to retract your statement? so when u say a little more concentrated u mean 20X more concentrated!!!

captain jack is $100 for 16 oz @ 60ml per gallon thats only 8 gallons of solution. or $12.50 per gallon. and the bottle of conserve will serve up more than 315!! gallons for $1.88 a gallon. i guess math is not your strong suit.
Bless it up!!
 
kushking42 said:
before you start throwing your opinion around try investigating the facts. 3ml per gallon with a quart of product means budologist will have spinosad for multiple seasons.

EDIT: for the record your product requires 60 ml per gallon!! care to retract your statement? so when u say a little more concentrated u mean 20X more concentrated!!!

Bless it up!!
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it was just that HIS OPINION ,no need to take offence bro
 
bro its not a matter of opinion its fact! dude is telling my homie to buy some bs watered down nonsense that is actually more expensive and less effective. that needs to be called out. bless!
 
sounds like a good buy bro.......have you guys figured out how to extend the fucking stubby ass spray tube on the atomizer yet......rediculous....i used it tonight, and all i kept thinking was..."we represent, the lollipop guild"........no offense to our little homies.
 
kushking42 said:
bro its not a matter of opinion its fact! dude is telling my homie to buy some bs watered down nonsense that is actually more expensive and less effective. that needs to be called out. bless!
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I think kic is buds "bro" too

For some bs watered down nonsense it seems to be working for me.
But I don't have a huge garden either so for me the captain jacks will have to do .
Didn't you say you never used it ?

Bud has a great journal going here let's keep it that way ;)
Maybe pm keepitcoastal he seems like a level headed dude who's open to criricism.

Maybe you'll change his mind if you come at him in a more respectful way
 
kush u are right about keeping things civil. however the numbers i threw out dont lie. its clearly there in the math. now u r using an overpriced watered down product. yes its working but it doesnt dispute previous said facts. people need to stop gardening with emotional attachments. this forum is supposed to be about raising the knowledge bar.
 
kushking42 said:
kush u are right about keeping things civil. however the numbers i threw out dont lie. its clearly there in the math. now u r using an overpriced watered down product. yes its working but it doesnt dispute previous said facts. people need to stop gardening with emotional attachments. thi
s forum is supposed to be about raising the knowledge bar.
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I hear what you're saying but I have about $300 invested into my 3 plant grow so a insectiside that cost $100+ wouldn't be realistic to me. But bud has way more plants and money invested into his grow so yes its more realistic for him to buy it

But to say the captain jacks is crap is going a little far, cause all the positive reviews online is what made me get it in the first place.

I'm all about soaking up info on here tho so when I upgrade my grow next year Ill definitely look into it
 
KushXOJ said:
I hear what you're saying but I have about $300 invested into my 3 plant grow so a insectiside that cost $100+ wouldn't be realistic to me but bud has mite plants and money invested into his grow so yes its more realistic for him to buy it

But to say the captain jacks is crap is going a little far, cause all the positive reviews online is what made me get it in the first place.
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see here in lies the problem. the experience that you have to draw on is from a much smaller canopy. probably similar to kic. i dont have to use captain jacks to know its exactly like monterey (which i have used). i know they are the same because they have identical application rates. i went threw lots of monterey last year. drawing from that experience, i now manage my canopy with conserve. bless it up and grow em big!!
 
kushking42 said:
see here in lies the problem. the experience that you have to draw on is from a much smaller canopy. probably similar to kic. i dont have to use captain jacks to know its exactly like monterey (which i have used). i know they are the same because they have identical application rates. i went threw lots of monterey last year. drawing from that experience, i now manage my canopy with conserve. bless it up and grow em big!!
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KIC actually has a pretty damn big canopy this year, fucking huge actually.




Great debate guys but I agree keep it peaceful were all here to better each other as growers.

Kush, to be honest all 6 bubba x querkle are a little but different. Definitely getting PM spots easier than the Romulan and Timewreck.
 
Budologist420 said:
KIC actually has a pretty damn big canopy this year, fucking huge actually.




Great debate guys but I agree keep it peaceful were all here to better each other as growers.

Kush, to be honest all 6 bubba x querkle are a little but different. Definitely getting PM spots easier than the Romulan and Timewreck.
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i stand corrected on canopy size. even more reason kic should be using conserve. what is your plan for dealing with that pm? have you used greencure. works well (organic)
 
kushking42 said:
i stand corrected on canopy size. even more reason kic should be using conserve. what is your plan for dealing with that pm? have you used greencure. works well (organic)
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That was my next question. The neem ain't doing doing its job! Have a few spots here and there of pm popping up on about half the plants. The other Half are resisting it really well.
 
if spots are popping up now their gonna be covered later. remember all that brix spraying and ca spraying i have been writing about for preventative? well now u see first hand the benefit of doing these sprays. next year right?? but that doesnt help u now though does it? lol. green cure works well as a preventative. you can spray til harvest if needed. u should spray hydrogen peroxide solution to kill the spores as well. treat the mildew before u spray conserve so u dont wash it off


edit: this is what i use for all things mold, its an upgrade from hydrogen peroxide:http://www.enviroselects.com/oxidate-broad-spectrum-bactericide-fungicide-1.html lower the orp to 150 and combine with a surfactant and spray away. im sure someone will say its too expensive
 
kushking42 said:
kush u are right about keeping things civil. however the numbers i threw out dont lie. its clearly there in the math. now u r using an overpriced watered down product. yes its working but it doesnt dispute previous said facts. people need to stop gardening with emotional attachments. this forum is supposed to be about raising the knowledge bar.
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ay im not tryin to make this anymore of a bitching match than it already is, but idk where the fuck that 100 dollars for 16 oz come from? i buy 16oz for 14 dollars at my local nursery and 24 dollars for the 32oz jug. so lets see then 180 dollars at 3ml vs 24 dollars at 60ml obviously your still getting better deal with the 3ml but not everybody needs 180 dollars worth of spinosad

when i posted my original post i was thinking more along the lines of you could buy like 7 bottles of the jacks spinosad for the price it costs to buy 1 of what you showed. BUT obviously the math shows you still get more with the concentrate you showed. but iv got a pretty big garden and i dont even need that much spinosad. one 16oz of jacks can get me by for one season.

edit... i will probably be looking into the concerve. i only made that first post without actually doing the math. at first thought it seemed like a better deal going with the jacks. lol and i can see why you would be pissed thinking im trying to say to buy jacks that costs 100 per 16oz that would be absolutely ridiculous but like i said above i get it for 14 a pop


oh yeah edit2.. green cure aka potassium bi carbonate works great and is safe for use up until harvest, it can save your ass if you get a bad attack. i sprayed 2 times 1 day apart and then once a week after that and haven't seen a spot sense and now i just switch from neem to the bi-carb bi weekly as a preventative in veg and then bi-carb as preventative in flower just every week or two
 
the crazy thing with organic gardening and cannabis is that if your soil science is spot on and your brix is high your plants wont get pm. referenced from my favorite book: http://www.amazon.com/Hemp-Diseases-Pests-Cabi-McPartland/dp/0851994547

Hi folks,

An old post - a quote from "Hemp diseases and pests" and a book recommendation..

I believe this was written by Bart Hall in an excellent intro to the basics of soil balancing. Search "William Albrecht" for more.

"In most cases, correcting for low calcium will simultaneously correct for low pH (acid soil). A common error in conventional agriculture is to see low pH as the problem, rather than as a symptom of low calcium. With such an approach, calcium additions to the soil have tended to be incidental to limestone applications focused on correcting pH, rather than governed by the calcium/magnesium regime in the soil.
This is unfortunate, since calcium as a nutrient plays an important role in crop health and quality. Of particular interest to hemp producers is calcium's action in strengthening cell structure. This occurs both at the level of plant framework (fiber in this case) and at the level of cell chemistry. Adequate levels of available calcium significantly improve the strength of the pectin that is such an important component of plant cell walls.
Strengthening pectin with calcium is a chemical reaction independent of whether or not the pectin is part of a living plant or not. Anyone who has used soluble calcium to set the low-methoxy pectins used in making sugarless jams can attest to this fact. In living plants with abundant available calcium, pectin is much more robust. Among other things, it makes cell walls more resistant to the polygalacturonase enzyme used by most fungal germ tubes to break down plant defenses when attempting to exploit an infection court. In plain English that means that there is a greater chance that germinating fungal spores will dry out and die before they get into the plant and start to grow. In practical terms, the plant is more resistant to fungal diseases."


Folks, get this book on the coffee table please, it is a collection of all research to date kind of book & is absolutely outstanding.





My favorite thing to spray for outdoor crops is "brix mix" by peaceful valley farm supply (fisher15's link - groworganic.com) at 1/2 recommended dose every two weeks. I add 1 tbs per gallon of molasses to this (attracts beneficials), and 1/2 tsp per gal of ascorbic acid (vit C). I adjust this spray to 5.8 pH +/-, and bring it to 125-150 ORP via h2o2. Every two weeks, that's my foliar spray, until about midway through what we call the August stretch (stop before any buds stack). Then, as if my soil mix didn't contain enough calcium hehe, I spray once a month a product called calcium25, and stop using this at the same time as the brix mix. This approach seems to have all but stopped attack from fungus, keeps bugs down, and rarely have I had to resort to harsher measures. I will though, if need be, it's a war sometimes and that's the way it is. If pressure from insects etc, threaten to approach what some might call economically-damaging levels, I refer to the most excellent book "Hemp Diseases and Pests" (McPartland, Clarke, & Watson) to help formulate an appropriate course of action based around the particular problem at hand.

Gypsum brings Sulfur, and we want 1 part Sulfur for every 10 parts N and P I believe, notes not handy but that is close for maximum microbe activity. Back soon, missed a few good questions, look forward to a long thread here - let´s get some dirt under our fingernails
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Big Love To All,

Tom

I've played with a lot of different soil recipes over the years, 1rst year new soil mixes, as well as yearly additives. Here's a very simple mix that is well proven and I am comfortable recommending for those large outdoor containers. It gives about 50 cubic feet or just over 300 gallons (dry U.S), and fills a 6ft diameter container to a depth of about 18inches - perfectly.

25 bags black gold potting soil (1.5cf ea)

4 bags stutzman farms chicken manure (1 cf ea)

1 bag perlite (4 cf ea)

1 bag (50 lbs) bonemeal (steamed, not precipitated)

1/2 bag gypsum (aprox 1/2 cf) - Edit -> 1/2 of a 40 lb bag (20lbs).

Mix well, water thoroughly, let rest for 2-3 weeks minimum, transplant, and stand back
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Best Regards,

Tom

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