Good to hear that they honoured the refund policy. To be honest, putting myself in there shoes, I’d be worried about order cancelations due to the fear mongering supplied by the good old media outlets. You may see some discounted prices on Ali in the future if this outbreak keeps up. They will definitely take a hit in the pocket book over all this.
Wuhan is actually in Hubei province and all these LED companies are in Quangdong province (Shenzhen city) with Hunan province in between the two. Mainland China has closed it Hong Kong borders to the mainland, I think this is the shipping issue. All packages from Ali are shipped out of Hong Kong via Air freight. Closed borders will certainly cause some shipping delays.
My duty fees were $16 on a $1200 order with 16 panels with heatsinks and 4 drivers.
Same for me. You in Canada fragile?
The HLG-120H-54A has internal current and voltage adjustment. The potentiometer is for the B/AB drivers, not the A models.
Im in the US.
Ahhh 10 4
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Since you will be powering one board per driver you really don't need the dimmer which means you can spread out the boards for better light distribution. I have a 240-watt driver with separate heat sinks and have to connect them via a long wire to one another which can be a pain when adjusting the lights because the wire has a desi/ghetto joint in the middle. one driver per light means more driver but it also means more control so you will be just fine. Get yourself a multimeter if you want to mess around with the onboard voltage and current adjustments so you don't overpower them but then again it's just simpler to leave them as is. This 240watt driver and a cheap 75-watt purple cob were more than enough for a veg room of 7.5X3.5 feet with 11 plants. The flowering room will have 960+ watts (including 200 watts of blurpile) in a 6X6.
Are you sure the second option isn't made with Epistar deep red diodes? A lot of the Samsung/Epistar board combinations use 252 LM301B/LM301H diodes and 36 Epistar 660nm diodes. Usually the more expensive Cree diodes are utilized in smaller numbers. I would be concerned with excessive stretch if you decide on the second option.
It’s definitely hard to pull the trigger on which configuration to go on. I was looking at the qb272 as well but decided against it due to the fact that a tiny mechanical switch can easily break if used aggressively or simply too many times. Which at that point would leave you in a situation, depending whether the switch broke in it’s on or off position or failed entirely for that matter. If you’re concerned with controlling the additional spectrums, I’d suggest purchasing the qb288 boards with all 301b/h and purchasing the qb11 strips to supplement. They come in 450nm 630nm 660nm 730nm. One qb11 covers a 2x2 area, 20w max a piece, all you would need to do is select the proper driver and spectrums you want.
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