The Ideal spectrum.

ChiefRunningPhist

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
That's what I'm trying to say, there is no special thing about IR. Its the same as light, just longer. We measure our LEDs effeciency (and all luminaries) based on how much visible light they produce vs how much energy they use. Its directly proportional to the waste energy realised per power consumed. If you don't have visible all you have is waste. If the LED doesn't produce light the only EM its emitting is IR.
 
TEKNIK

TEKNIK

Well-Known Member
ChiefRunningPhist said:
That's what I'm trying to say, there is no special thing about IR. Its the same as light, just longer. We measure our LEDs effeciency (and all luminaries) based on how much visible light they produce vs how much energy they use. Its directly proportional to the waste energy realised per power consumed. If you don't have visible all you have is waste. If the LED doesn't produce light the only EM its emitting is IR.
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I was wrong, but saying that I can't see past 840nm. As far as I can tell an 840nm led will be more efficient than an incandescent light bulb in the spectrum range between 800 to 840nm. I am not sure what happens after 840nm and it is possible that a light bulb is better for over all IR.
 
TEKNIK

TEKNIK

Well-Known Member
My spectrometer is no where close to being broad enough, I found an image of a full spectrum of an incandescent and my first conclusion would be correct. But an incandescent is not as efficient at producing IR in the 800-840nm range as an led
 
OLD MOTHER SATIVA

OLD MOTHER SATIVA

Well-Known Member
but there is an opinion not generally thrown around much

several grows i have used 3000 k and 5000 k

and little or no difference was seen

in this case the 5000k is way better than the 3000k side..

i admit one of the plants in the 3000k has some sort of stress but the one in a back ground does not

i am not here to be picky just to show that you can do well veg/flower with at least 5000 k

i am interested in the added red talk but this post is just to dispell "dock talk"

that one needs lower colour temp for flowering..all i am saying is that

5000k

will veg and flower like a mofo

3000 k

3000k.jpg


5000 k

tuscarora 5000k.jpg
 
nachooo

nachooo

Well-Known Member
OLD MOTHER SATIVA said:
making new 12" x 24" dual channel 5000k 301b board

want 25% of it to be reds 630, 660,730

thanks rocketsoul..for the red inspiration


i can use advice as to the ratio % of each of the reds

ie

what is the best ratio of 630 to 660 to 730 diodes?
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I have built recently a new lamp made with samsung lm301b 3500 K about 100 watts plus 24 watts of osram square Deep red and 8 watts of osram far red ..from led tech (germany)
I run the far reds all day long not only for EOD.
I have notice an increase in leaf size but normal stretch. I have add some UVB and UVA from an Arcadia dragon 14% so maybe this is limiting the stretch..
I have notice also that leaves are praying ..but much less praying than when I did not use far red and leaves were praying almost vertical....I think we should use more far red even in veg time...and most white leds have not enough of it.
 
rkymtnman

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
OLD MOTHER SATIVA said:
i am not here to be picky just to show that you can do well veg/flower with at least 5000 k

i am interested in the added red talk but this post is just to dispell "dock talk"

that one needs lower colour temp for flowering..all i am saying is that
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i'm hardly an expert but i think you hit on 2 good points:

1. the sun's K value is roughly 5000K
2. i think alot of people overemphasize the slight shift to red during fall when our eyes see it as redder. overall though the sun is still 5000K year round

i went with 4000K atreum boards. for the simple reason that i liked the high blue spike (and red) that i think follows the chlorpyll a and b charts.
i've had one grow under them but so far so good.

the only thing i might add is a emerson booster: 660 and 730 in some strips.
 
kotobide

kotobide

Well-Known Member
I veg and flower with 4000k boards i picked up a 260 watt v1 kit last fall had amy first run with leds and my first.run in coco.

Had lots of issues lock outs and burnt some plants under estimated the intensity of the boards.

Still pulled .89 gpw and that's better than I've ran using my old 400 watt hps.

I guess i just like how it keeps them short and stocky through flower enough so that ive added 2 atreum 144.2 4000k boards to the mix since switching to 12/12 15 days agoIMG_20190514_170210_hdr.jpg
 
rkymtnman

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
InTheValley said:
I had plants actually grow taller under the 4000K then under the 3500K with far red added to the day cycle. I thought it was odd,
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i've been looking at the "perfect" grow room temps for these 4k boards. i read a post on the lumigrow website that they felt that 27C with ambient CO2 was optimal for growth

what are you guys running as far as room temps?
 
rkymtnman

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
InTheValley said:
I let mine float between 76F-81F daytime, early flower i like 65F at night, now being weeks 2-3 flower, i let it ride at 73F at night, 80F day. Last 3 weeks, 62F night-76Day. RH 48-55% constant,
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i'm gonna try the 80F 27c this go round for on and see if that makes a difference.

i wish my RH was that much. my temp gauge always says Lo for RH. lol. they have seemed to adapt to high elevation/low RH in the decade i've been growing. a VPD chart for me is absurd to try to follow
 
InTheValley

InTheValley

Well-Known Member
kotobide said:
How much far red did you add?

I only have my hps that I vegged and flowered under to compare it.Things grew out of control under it lol
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Hey koto, Im only using GrowMau5 Puck, which is only 7watts. I run it all day, and 15 minutes when light cycle is out at end of day.

My grow is actually complicated,lol.

I grow 12/12 from seed almost exclusively. I run 4 Luminus cobs, 2x3500K-80CRI and 2x4000K-90 CRI

First 4 hours of day, i run 150watts of 3500K, 50 watts of the 4000K, middle 4 hours i use all 4 @ 300 watts, last 4 hours, 150 watts 4000K and 50 watts 3500K..

Things Ive noticed- 4000K grow a taller plant, slower pistil formation, 3500K shorter plant, faster pistil formation.
So i changed the pots around, and the laggin has almost caught up, but flower stretch is pretty much over, so now its just stacking of the top cola bud. I didnt top these testers, for testing purposes. But then, i did cut the lower fan leaves off the nodes on the smaller plant, so that might have slowed it. Also, the taller one is in a corner of the grow area, which might have been getting more light because of the reflection reasons. Where as the smaller, didnt have a corner. My space is 3.5 ftx 6 ft, but use the back of the area for my light to cover the 3.5x3.5 area.

So, i guess, theoretically speaking, the experiment is a wash, lol..
 
kotobide

kotobide

Well-Known Member
InTheValley said:
Hey koto, Im only using GrowMau5 Puck, which is only 7watts. I run it all day, and 15 minutes when light cycle is out at end of day.

My grow is actually complicated,lol.

I grow 12/12 from seed almost exclusively. I run 4 Luminus cobs, 2x3500K-80CRI and 2x4000K-90 CRI

First 4 hours of day, i run 150watts of 3500K, 50 watts of the 4000K, middle 4 hours i use all 4 @ 300 watts, last 4 hours, 150 watts 4000K and 50 watts 3500K..

Things Ive noticed- 4000K grow a taller plant, slower pistil formation, 3500K shorter plant, faster pistil formation.
So i changed the pots around, and the laggin has almost caught up, but flower stretch is pretty much over, so now its just stacking of the top cola bud. I didnt top these testers, for testing purposes. But then, i did cut the lower fan leaves off the nodes on the smaller plant, so that might have slowed it. Also, the taller one is in a corner of the grow area, which might have been getting more light because of the reflection reasons. Where as the smaller, didnt have a corner. My space is 3.5 ftx 6 ft, but use the back of the area for my light to cover the 3.5x3.5 area.

So, i guess, theoretically speaking, the experiment is a wash, lol..
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Are you trying to mimic time of day intensity of the sun by blasting the middle 4 hours and the sunrise/sunset ramping?

Ive noticed the increase in far reds showing up in lights these days like the alibaba panels, flowing initiators and now HLG as well in the new trinity light hybrids testing.


Is that 7 watt puck enough to trigger the Phytochrome to an active state?
 
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