The Official Canna Coco & Nutrients Thread

k3nz1387

k3nz1387

Well-Known Member
i like to run between 5.6 and 6.2 and start with an ec of 0.6 then 0.8 then if theres no sign of nute burn i go up to 1.0
 
PUKKA BUD

PUKKA BUD

Well-Known Member
k3nz1387 said:
i like to run between 5.6 and 6.2 and start with an ec of 0.6 then 0.8 then if theres no sign of nute burn i go up to 1.0
Click to expand...
Hey k3nz

I havent got a EC meter gettin 1 for my next grow.....Did you sort your growth prob out buddy.... what light have you been usin?

peace
 
PUKKA BUD

PUKKA BUD

Well-Known Member
Hi JB mate i was wonderin if you could give me some tips on flushin my coco mate
Im not re-usin my coco
Im in a 11L pots
She's drinking 2.5L a day

Do i still keep waterin the 2.5L a day of my flush water?..... And then water with 3x my pot size 33L the last day...or last 2?.......or 33L at start of flush then usaul amount there after.........or 33L everyday for the week?

Any help and tips would be great cheers

peace
 
A

arsen451

Active Member
Hey guys, wondering if anyone can help me understand whats going on with my plants. Plants have always been dark in color but recently have been coming out light lime green and drooping, mostly on the newer leaves. Ive got one mother plant and a few 2 week old plants that are all showing the same symptoms. Using Atami B'cuzz coco mixed with perlite, R/O water, nutes are 200 ppm Cal/Mag, Canna coco A and B, Cannazyme, and Super Thrive. Total ppm 600-700, PH 5.8. Watering til a good amount drains every 2 days. Under 1000w MH about 2 ft. above plants. Room Temp 70-80 degrees, Humidity 40-60%. Here are some pics.

imagejpeg_214.jpgimagejpeg_212.jpgimagejpeg_213.jpgimagejpeg_215.jpgimagejpeg_211.jpg


 
Y

ympb

Member
I start my clones at 7-8 ml/gal. I'm running between 10-13 ml/gal. After my Cal/mag.

I'd try bumping it up a little.
 
K

King Dingaling

Well-Known Member
hi, im growing in soil and use cogr vega and flores A and B. i also have a bottle of canna boost but i dont know anything about it..... i have read that it is soposed to give me alot more yeild and i should only use it in flowering. is this true? how much should i mix to 1l of water? can i use it together with the other nutes?
 
ChroniCDooM

ChroniCDooM

Active Member
Jberry nice thread! Im scribed and sending a +rep your way. Will be coming back often for research. I'm on my second grow about to harvest in a week. I have five autos in FF ocean forest and using the recipe for success kit by Technaflora. I came across this thread a few weeks ago and have already started making preparations for my turnaround. After going thru this thread I am making the switch to canna and coco. So far I have the coco, coco a+b, and the cannazym. I will purchase some rhizotonic, atami bloombastic, and some PK 13/14 soon. I have some LSD and some Blue Mystic seeds on order from the attitude for this grow. I only have 2 grows under my belt and they have both been autoflower strains. Looking forward to growing regular strains. Just wondering if anyone has any advice for a novice when it comes to coco and canna? I assume you use plain coco with no added perlite right. I second guess myself to death and just when I was getting everything down, I decide to switch to coco. Now I gotta go get a ppm/ec/tds meter also, which I have never even used before. Still trying to grasp everything lots to learn about this. Not even sure if I have hard or soft water out of my tap. Like I said I'm a rookie growing since september. Hell I was nervous as hell at the thought of adjusting ph and using the meter and calibration. I had someone old school tell me you aint gotta worry about the ph just throw the seed in soil and let go. Yeah right! I'm trying to grow chronic medicine not some scraggly weed. My wife was even thinking I was getting into growing to far. I got that personality that when I get into something I go all the way in! Lots of research and trying to retain it all. Before september I never grew anything, and I gotta say my first crop turned out killa for a rookie. I'm also using a 270w enhanced spectrum Supernova LED. Something more to compound the grow. Worrying if the LED would produce. It did like a champ! Anyway I'm rambling just thought I would chime in and see if I could get any advice. Thanks for any help!
 
Shrubs First

Shrubs First

Well-Known Member
Snow Crash said:
10ml of A and 10ml of B in one gallon of water adds up to 540 ppms on my Hanna Meter. Tested it myself just the other day and was maybe a little over-excited when I read the results of my experiment and compared them to my hypothesis./QUOTE]

PPM is based off of EC and is not universal. EC is universal. Your Hanna meter saying 500ppm is the exact same as my Oakton saying
700ppm. They are based off of a conversion factor, Hanna's conversion factor is .5 and Oakton is .71. There are many different conversion
factors and they are even able to be changed. I can change the conversion factor on my meter if I want to. It is all a way of giving you EC.
Your 500 ppm = 1.0 EC because of your conversion factor. 700PPM on mine = 1.0 EC because of the conversion factor.

Dunno if that helps your numbers, but maybe you should base it off of EC in order for us to all be on the same page.
Click to expand...
 
Snow Crash

Snow Crash

Well-Known Member
Shrubs First said:
Snow Crash said:
10ml of A and 10ml of B in one gallon of water adds up to 540 ppms on my Hanna Meter. Tested it myself just the other day and was maybe a little over-excited when I read the results of my experiment and compared them to my hypothesis./QUOTE]

PPM is based off of EC and is not universal. EC is universal. Your Hanna meter saying 500ppm is the exact same as my Oakton saying
700ppm. They are based off of a conversion factor, Hanna's conversion factor is .5 and Oakton is .71. There are many different conversion
factors and they are even able to be changed. I can change the conversion factor on my meter if I want to. It is all a way of giving you EC.
Your 500 ppm = 1.0 EC because of your conversion factor. 700PPM on mine = 1.0 EC because of the conversion factor.

Dunno if that helps your numbers, but maybe you should base it off of EC in order for us to all be on the same page.
Click to expand...
I have taken my time with this. I do understand much better now that with my meter I should be relying on the uS/cm for the measurement of the electrical conductivity. That this measurement is not accurate but can be used as a relational tool.

Another way to estimate guaranteed nutrition is already on the bottle. A few quick calculations and you can take the percentage listed on the bottle and get what can be at best considered an approximation of the ratios... perhaps within 10% of the actual levels plus unlisted elements included in the formula. It is inevitable that there will be more in the solution than promised and sometimes the estimations cannot be made because we don't know what meters the nutrient companies have which is measuring the guaranteed concentration of specific elements or if they are basing their measurements on the weight of salts per volume of water.

Here is a copy of the calculator I've constructed for my personal use which can approximate the EC of the solution based on the promised minimum ppm of the nutrients listed on the bottle. My measurements are based on a 0.5 conversion for ppm to uS/cm. I also compensate for an additional 18% when doing a the uS/cm calculation based on my experience with the calculator and the actual measurements so that someone without a meter could have at least a vague idea of what is going on inside the solution.

Please, take this spreadsheet with a grain of salt. It is simply a tool. If you don't like it, you don't have to use it, and it is intended for fun. You could use it to get ratio differences of different nutrient lines so as to compare which system recommends more of one element than another.

Zoom too 80% to see the whole thing. Input the starting uS/cm (double ppm) in the top left box, then fill in the rest with your nutrients. Some elements are not listed on the sheet as they are not listed on most bottles, or are in very low supply and account for very little total ppm. If you have a meter, give it a shot, and let me know how close the final predicted uS/cm is to the actual measurement. If it is close then you can have an idea of what your ratios probably look like and what the nutrient ppms are more or less.

Again... After getting laughed off this thread for something as simple as the semantics of phosphorus over P2O5... when they both just a relational representation of approximations... I don't want to continue to burn bridges with people thinking I'm on some high horse. Take it or leave it.

http://www.filedropper.com/snowcrashcalculator20
Click to expand...
 
jberry

jberry

Well-Known Member
Here is a nutrient calculator that is quick & easy to use and it addresses the Net Weight / Liquid Volume as well.

Click the link below and then scroll down to bottom of that page :eyesmoke::

http://www.angelfire.com/cantina/fourtwenty/articles/profiles.htm

The calculator is great but all the other info is pretty outdated and not entirely accurate imo.

*Be aware of note at bottom of calculator:
*"When no weight information is available for liquid fertilizers
the nutrient profile can be understated by as much as 25%."
 
PUKKA BUD

PUKKA BUD

Well-Known Member
thanks jb mate

ill check it out.........I was just wonderin could you give me some advice on hows the best way to flush your coco, any tips would be great mate
im in 11L pots plants drinkin 2.5L a day an im goin to use sucanat with my flush water

cheers + peace
 
masonite420

masonite420

Active Member
PUKKA BUD said:
thanks jb mate

ill check it out.........I was just wonderin could you give me some advice on hows the best way to flush your coco, any tips would be great mate
im in 11L pots plants drinkin 2.5L a day an im goin to use sucanat with my flush water

cheers + peace
Click to expand...
Florakleen for a day and then straight water for 6 days....does the trick!....Peace
 
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