The Official House and Garden Thread

I'm wanting to add Magi-cal to my recipie. Does anyone have a dosage and what week to add it in?

Also, I have 75% of my girls in coco/hydroton mix 60/40 and the remainder 25% in straight hydroton. I already bought the Cocos A&B when I decided to test out straight hydroton as a medium. I'm seeing a fluctation in ppm and ph. Does anyone have any info on doing it this way?
 

#1Raiderfan420

Well-Known Member
Got some ????'s

1. Is there humic/fulvic acid anywhere in the HG line? -- Yes, but not enough IMO. I suppliment during veg.
2. Is there silica anywhere in the HG line? No, not in the US anyway. They do make there own silicate suppliment, we can't get it in the US. They do recommend adding a silicate to their line as they do with the Cal/Mag.
3. When using Great White w/ HG do I need to add any type of carbs to feed them? I am not sure on this one. I use hygrozyme and gw during veg. During flower the budxl is the largest source of carbs, but not sure about veg or early flower. IMO, Carbs are most important during bud development.
4. Can I use airstones without killing the Bacteria in the GW and Root Excel? If not, would a circulation pump be adequate? If so, what size would you use for a 55g drum? Yes, airstones are fine. My circ pumps are 485 gph for 50 gal reserviors. I use both air stones and a circ pumps.
 

FootClan

Well-Known Member
Got some ????'s

1. Is there humic/fulvic acid anywhere in the HG line? -- Yes, but not enough IMO. I suppliment during veg.
2. Is there silica anywhere in the HG line? No, not in the US anyway. They do make there own silicate suppliment, we can't get it in the US. They do recommend adding a silicate to their line as they do with the Cal/Mag.
3. When using Great White w/ HG do I need to add any type of carbs to feed them? I am not sure on this one. I use hygrozyme and gw during veg. During flower the budxl is the largest source of carbs, but not sure about veg or early flower. IMO, Carbs are most important during bud development.
4. Can I use airstones without killing the Bacteria in the GW and Root Excel? If not, would a circulation pump be adequate? If so, what size would you use for a 55g drum? Yes, airstones are fine. My circ pumps are 485 gph for 50 gal reserviors. I use both air stones and a circ pumps.
the wholesaler did NOT recommend using Calmag supplemts to me ....He and another person from the humbolt wholesale said that i shouldnt use calmag becasue theres already calmag in the a/b??? why do people keep saying that H&G says to use calmag when everytime i call them they say NOT to use it.....just wondering who you guys are talking to when you say "they" recommend it?? cause from what i heard they dont ...
 

bender420

Well-Known Member
the wholesaler did NOT recommend using Calmag supplemts to me ....He and another person from the humbolt wholesale said that i shouldnt use calmag becasue theres already calmag in the a/b??? why do people keep saying that H&G says to use calmag when everytime i call them they say NOT to use it.....just wondering who you guys are talking to when you say "they" recommend it?? cause from what i heard they dont ...

indeed the a/b have enough cal-mag, if you are using tapwater. If you are using RO, especially with coco, you are going to need to supplement with cal-mag.
 

FootClan

Well-Known Member
indeed the a/b have enough cal-mag, if you are using tapwater. If you are using RO, especially with coco, you are going to need to supplement with cal-mag.

yes i understand that but he said that i dont need it with R/O water......im not saying hes right im just sayin thats what they keep telling me when i call...Ive talked to more then one person there just to see if they would have the same answer and they did...so they must be giving out wrong info??

One of the product support guys i talked to said hes been using it for 4 years and never adds calmag with is r/o water
 

#1Raiderfan420

Well-Known Member
yes i understand that but he said that i dont need it with R/O water......im not saying hes right im just sayin thats what they keep telling me when i call...Ive talked to more then one person there just to see if they would have the same answer and they did...so they must be giving out wrong info??

One of the product support guys i talked to said hes been using it for 4 years and never adds calmag with is r/o water
Bro, Bender is right. It depends on your water. I don't listen everything the venders say, but instead communicate with House and Garden in the Australia directly. I also recommend if you have a question that you feel you are getting contradictory information on, that you e-mail them directly. I like the Aussie site much better than humbolt site, but to each his own. I posted the web site a few pages back I think. I always add cal-mag during weeks 5-7 flower. I do not use an RO filter, my tap water ppms are 25. I used to use an RO filter and had to use Cal-mag all the way through. I am sure you don't "need" to add anything to the line, but some find that a few ancillary products are beneficial. I am one of those people. ;)
 

FootClan

Well-Known Member
thats cool im not disagreeing with you or anyone was just seeing if you guys thought the humboltwholesale guys are wrong and it seems that most think that the humboltwhole people are incorrect.....wouldnt suprise me one bit i get false info all the time from retailers and wholesalers...
 
Bro, Bender is right. It depends on your water. I don't listen everything the venders say, but instead communicate with House and Garden in the Australia directly. I also recommend if you have a question that you feel you are getting contradictory information on, that you e-mail them directly. I like the Aussie site much better than humbolt site, but to each his own. I posted the web site a few pages back I think. I always add cal-mag during weeks 5-7 flower. I do not use an RO filter, my tap water ppms are 25. I used to use an RO filter and had to use Cal-mag all the way through. I am sure you don't "need" to add anything to the line, but some find that a few ancillary products are beneficial. I am one of those people. ;)
So what ancillary products do you use?
 

Jozikins

Well-Known Member
thats cool im not disagreeing with you or anyone was just seeing if you guys thought the humboltwholesale guys are wrong and it seems that most think that the humboltwhole people are incorrect.....wouldnt suprise me one bit i get false info all the time from retailers and wholesalers...
Im using R/O and the complete Coco line, minus the Algen Extract, which contains Magnesium and many micro nutrients for veg. My A/B has enough Calcium (and apparently a little magnesium) in it up until the second or third week of flowering, and then the deficiencies start showing up. Whether or not I add cal/mag during veg, the plants don't give a shit. At least my plants feel this way.

Anyways, I would probably skip the advice from Humboldt Wholesale, personally. They have steered a few friends of mine wrong. HOWEVER, I have meet a touring House & Garden vendor (presumably employed by HW) and he was fucking genius! I still talk to him, and get lots of excellent information out of him. He strongly suggest using a calcium/magnesium supplement. I've gotten advice here in this thread, and even more recently directly for him, suggesting Magi-Cal as your supplement.

HW may not be allowed to recommend another product when being addressed about the H&G?
 

#1Raiderfan420

Well-Known Member
So what ancillary products do you use?
I add cal/mag, silica, hygrozyme, and a little great white when they are toddlers. I also substitute Yellow Bottle Bloom 2 part foliar(it is an awesome pm preventative) in place of the Magic Green. I also use something called Excel LG for a foliar pm preventive as well. I do add some Botanicare sweet the last few weeks sometimes, but haven't used it the last couple rounds. I would say that it does help with the trichome development though. If I ever have any bug issues I use azamax and sucra shield, but haven't had to use anything the last couple of rounds...knock on wood ;)
 
I add cal/mag, silica, hygrozyme, and a little great white when they are toddlers. I also substitute Yellow Bottle Bloom 2 part foliar(it is an awesome pm preventative) in place of the Magic Green. I also use something called Excel LG for a foliar pm preventive as well. I do add some Botanicare sweet the last few weeks sometimes, but haven't used it the last couple rounds. I would say that it does help with the trichome development though. If I ever have any bug issues I use azamax and sucra shield, but haven't had to use anything the last couple of rounds...knock on wood ;)
Have you had to use air stones in your resevoir when using hygrozyme and great white? I'm still trying to get my formula down and I'm comparing the differences between using coco or hydroton. So far hydroton seems easier to use due to the coco staying too wet for longer periods. My babies are rooted in coco and I put the cluster into the hydroton. I'm still using cocos a&b for my nutes. Trying to get the watering schedule on point. i've heard lots of folks say to flood every 3 or 4 hours when the lights are on but I'm starting to see most leaves turn yellow so I'm decreasing the amount of times to water per day for the hydroton bunch. the coco bunch only gets watered every 4 or 5 days. I put made the mistake of feeding them too soon and burned the coco ladies. They are recovering now but it's still taking a long time to get them to dry out.
 

#1Raiderfan420

Well-Known Member
Have you had to use air stones in your resevoir when using hygrozyme and great white? I'm still trying to get my formula down and I'm comparing the differences between using coco or hydroton. So far hydroton seems easier to use due to the coco staying too wet for longer periods. My babies are rooted in coco and I put the cluster into the hydroton. I'm still using cocos a&b for my nutes. Trying to get the watering schedule on point. i've heard lots of folks say to flood every 3 or 4 hours when the lights are on but I'm starting to see most leaves turn yellow so I'm decreasing the amount of times to water per day for the hydroton bunch. the coco bunch only gets watered every 4 or 5 days. I put made the mistake of feeding them too soon and burned the coco ladies. They are recovering now but it's still taking a long time to get them to dry out.
I do run air stones in my reserviors which does probably kill some of the beneficials, but there is still plenty left alive. I do not use airstones in my veg room reserviors, just circulation pumps. I veg in 6" coco pots then put those in 2 gal smart pots with coco coir/perlite (50/50) then when they move to the flower room I place the 2 gal smart pots in the trays and fill 3 inch deep hydroton in the trays. I flood every 3 hours while the lights are on. You will work out a system that works best for you, it has taken me a lot of experimenting to get my system down.
 
I do run air stones in my reserviors which does probably kill some of the beneficials, but there is still plenty left alive. I do not use airstones in my veg room reserviors, just circulation pumps. I veg in 6" coco pots then put those in 2 gal smart pots with coco coir/perlite (50/50) then when they move to the flower room I place the 2 gal smart pots in the trays and fill 3 inch deep hydroton in the trays. I flood every 3 hours while the lights are on. You will work out a system that works best for you, it has taken me a lot of experimenting to get my system down.
Yes, I'm trying to get my system down. Thanks for the info.
 
So the Australian H&G Mix Rate chart calls for using Multi Enzyme in week 2 of veg. This is different from the chart here in the US. Does anyone have any reasoning about this? Should I use it or not?
 

Jozikins

Well-Known Member
So the Australian H&G Mix Rate chart calls for using Multi Enzyme in week 2 of veg. This is different from the chart here in the US. Does anyone have any reasoning about this? Should I use it or not?
Here we call it Multizen. Use it like they say too, it's probably a little different over there. In the US, lot's of products have to be altered in order to make it over. I talk to the House&Garden reps here in the states pretty regularly, and they always complain how it takes forever to get a product in because apparently it's a real bitch to pass our agricultural standards or something. All I know is that it causes them a great deal of stress.

But Multizen or "Multi Enzyme" is basically a flower jump starter. Depending on the composition used in Australia, it could effect your plant much more slowly on a different level than ours. Maybe your agricultural standards are the ones that are too tough and that is why it works like that.
 
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