The things I wish I had known starting a grow tent

Oldenred1

Active Member
Recently started a 3x3x72 grow tent. I am new to grow tents and hydro systems. I started out with a 5 gallon DWC bucket. A 315 CMH light. AC infinity carbon filter and exhaust fan. After countless hours of reading and videos I thought I had what I needed. Little did I know.

One of the things that made a huge difference for me was not understanding that the exhaust fan need to be blown into another room (not the room the grow tent is in) or preferably outside. I have my setup in a 4x10 closet with one AC vent in the room. Sending the exhaust into the room warmed it 7-10 degrees and it’s only April. The temps in the tent were over 90. There won’t be any success with a DWC system in 90+ degree water and outside temps. Running the exhaust fan outside got me to around 85-88.

The next thing is that with the CMH light and exhaust on full my humidity was around 25-28%. Also not ideal and not going to bring success. In order to combat this I added a humidifier. This dropped my temps down to 80-84 and brought my humidity to 50%. I only run it 30 mins prior to lights coming on and until 30 mins after the lights go off. Running it when the lights are off brought humidity to 70-80% fairly quickly. No need to give ideal conditions for mold.

You can certainly have success growing in the low 80’s but not if your water is in the low 80’s. To alleviate this I added a chiller and 20 gallon reservoir outside the tent to keep water at 70 degrees and made this a recirculating system.

Of course there are other things that could be done. I would have liked to have used an AC unit to cool the tent and not had to have had a chiller but that wasn’t an option for me.

I am using Advanced Nutrients complete system for my nutrients.

This is just the start to my journey and will update as I have more information. Like most I am very excited and my first plant is Ethos Genetics – CrescendO RBXV2 Feminized. Pushing 30% THC content can’t wait! Thanks for reading.
 
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Dryxi

Well-Known Member
Some issues I found when moving to a tent was controlling night temps and humidity. I was in a 5x5 in a basement and it got too cold down there at night. I also found that using a notill planter bed inside a tent works but sucks due space constraints in a tent.

Honestly my conclusion after a couple grows in the tent was that if you have the space, longevity of the grow space and want the control of your environment, get a bigger tent or build a room. A 5x5 looks like it's more than big enough, but then you find yourself wanting more space and regretting going smaller at the beginning (if you could've gone bigger)
 

spek9

Well-Known Member
I was in a 5x5 in a basement and it got too cold down there at night.
My basement is a year-round 52F, with high humidity. I'm on the edge of a lake, at the bottom of a mountain range, so cold water is always running just below the basement floor.

I run my veg tents 24/0, both with 400W MH. I found that when the flower tents dropped down to the 52F the room is at, it was stunting bud growth.

So I manufactured up a controller specific to my environments. In flower lights off, the exhaust fan turns down to the lowest setting. This provides just enough negative air pressure. The veg tents each have a normal inline exhaust system, but also has a second duct that goes through the air cooled hood, and into the bottom of the flower tent. When the flower tent is below 58F, a small 6" fan sitting on top of furnace filter on a short 12" piece of ducting attached to the other end of the air cooled hood bent at a 90 degree angle toward the ceiling switches on, the exhast fan turns off, and all the excess heat is driven into the flower tent.

I've got two setups exactly the same. Each flower tent has a matching veg tent. To combat possible light leaks in flower, I have a 4x4' 5/8" thick plywood board 1' above the floor of the tent. The board is actually 2.5" shorter than the tent is at the front and back. That allows the hot air from underneath the board from veg to enter the flower tent. The board is a fraction of an inch above the passive intakes, so all fresh air goes through this "chamber" as well.

I hope I've explained that properly. It's far more cost effective than heating my entire basement, and at 57-58F in flower during lights-off, all of the slow growth has disappeared.

alpha.jpg

(Flower humidity is high because my dehumidifier crapped out, and I just bought a new one today, and just got it running).
 

Growingforpeace

Well-Known Member
My basement is a year-round 52F, with high humidity. I'm on the edge of a lake, at the bottom of a mountain range, so cold water is always running just below the basement floor.

I run my veg tents 24/0, both with 400W MH. I found that when the flower tents dropped down to the 52F the room is at, it was stunting bud growth.

So I manufactured up a controller specific to my environments. In flower lights off, the exhaust fan turns down to the lowest setting. This provides just enough negative air pressure. The veg tents each have a normal inline exhaust system, but also has a second duct that goes through the air cooled hood, and into the bottom of the flower tent. When the flower tent is below 58F, a small 6" fan sitting on top of furnace filter on a short 12" piece of ducting attached to the other end of the air cooled hood bent at a 90 degree angle toward the ceiling switches on, the exhast fan turns off, and all the excess heat is driven into the flower tent.

I've got two setups exactly the same. Each flower tent has a matching veg tent. To combat possible light leaks in flower, I have a 4x4' 5/8" thick plywood board 1' above the floor of the tent. The board is actually 2.5" shorter than the tent is at the front and back. That allows the hot air from underneath the board from veg to enter the flower tent. The board is a fraction of an inch above the passive intakes, so all fresh air goes through this "chamber" as well.

I hope I've explained that properly. It's far more cost effective than heating my entire basement, and at 57-58F in flower during lights-off, all of the slow growth has disappeared.

View attachment 4543197

(Flower humidity is high because my dehumidifier crapped out, and I just bought a new one today, and just got it running).
If you grow autos you leave lights on 24 hours
 

Oldenred1

Active Member
Added things that are needed for my grow. Dehumidifier and an inline fan from my ac unit to the room the closet is in and a Ductstat inline thermostat. I may go ahead and duct that in to the tent as well. We’ll see how temps fluctuate.
 

Desmondg

Active Member
My basement is a year-round 52F, with high humidity. I'm on the edge of a lake, at the bottom of a mountain range, so cold water is always running just below the basement floor.

I run my veg tents 24/0, both with 400W MH. I found that when the flower tents dropped down to the 52F the room is at, it was stunting bud growth.

So I manufactured up a controller specific to my environments. In flower lights off, the exhaust fan turns down to the lowest setting. This provides just enough negative air pressure. The veg tents each have a normal inline exhaust system, but also has a second duct that goes through the air cooled hood, and into the bottom of the flower tent. When the flower tent is below 58F, a small 6" fan sitting on top of furnace filter on a short 12" piece of ducting attached to the other end of the air cooled hood bent at a 90 degree angle toward the ceiling switches on, the exhast fan turns off, and all the excess heat is driven into the flower tent.

I've got two setups exactly the same. Each flower tent has a matching veg tent. To combat possible light leaks in flower, I have a 4x4' 5/8" thick plywood board 1' above the floor of the tent. The board is actually 2.5" shorter than the tent is at the front and back. That allows the hot air from underneath the board from veg to enter the flower tent. The board is a fraction of an inch above the passive intakes, so all fresh air goes through this "chamber" as well.

I hope I've explained that properly. It's far more cost effective than heating my entire basement, and at 57-58F in flower during lights-off, all of the slow growth has disappeared.

View attachment 4543197

(Flower humidity is high because my dehumidifier crapped out, and I just bought a new one today, and just got it running).
Wow. That’s pretty awesome. Love the setup and controls. Mind me asking what you use hardware and software wise? You have a journal somewhere I’m sure. Let me know. I’m from Ontario myself.
 

spek9

Well-Known Member
Wow. That’s pretty awesome. Love the setup and controls. Mind me asking what you use hardware and software wise? You have a journal somewhere I’m sure. Let me know. I’m from Ontario myself.
I've been in the process of designing and building a controller that is currently under patent application, so I'd rather not talk about details specifically. I will answer questions if asked though.

There's a journal in the Journal section somewhere that I've got.
 

DaFreak

Well-Known Member
Recently started a 3x3x72 grow tent. I am new to grow tents and hydro systems. I started out with a 5 gallon DWC bucket. A 315 CMH light. AC infinity carbon filter and exhaust fan. After countless hours of reading and videos I thought I had what I needed. Little did I know.

One of the things that made a huge difference for me was not understanding that the exhaust fan need to be blown into another room (not the room the grow tent is in) or preferably outside. I have my setup in a 4x10 closet with one AC vent in the room. Sending the exhaust into the room warmed it 7-10 degrees and it’s only April. The temps in the tent were over 90. There won’t be any success with a DWC system in 90+ degree water and outside temps. Running the exhaust fan outside got me to around 85-88.

The next thing is that with the CMH light and exhaust on full my humidity was around 25-28%. Also not ideal and not going to bring success. In order to combat this I added a humidifier. This dropped my temps down to 80-84 and brought my humidity to 50%. I only run it 30 mins prior to lights coming on and until 30 mins after the lights go off. Running it when the lights are off brought humidity to 70-80% fairly quickly. No need to give ideal conditions for mold.

You can certainly have success growing in the low 80’s but not if your water is in the low 80’s. To alleviate this I added a chiller and 20 gallon reservoir outside the tent to keep water at 70 degrees and made this a recirculating system.

Of course there are other things that could be done. I would have liked to have used an AC unit to cool the tent and not had to have had a chiller but that wasn’t an option for me.

I am using Advanced Nutrients complete system for my nutrients.

This is just the start to my journey and will update as I have more information. Like most I am very excited and my first plant is Ethos Genetics – CrescendO RBXV2 Feminized. Pushing 30% THC content can’t wait! Thanks for reading.
I wish I had the chance to talk to you and tell you what nonsense DWC is and that you would have been so much happier just running drain to waste with pro-mix, saved yourself a lot of money and hassle. Most likely you would not have listened though, good news is you can still stop the madness and make the change. Wouldn't bet on it though, nothing about you, just the way things are, too many people wanting to prove that they can make life harder.
 

Coloradogrower710

Well-Known Member
Recently started a 3x3x72 grow tent. I am new to grow tents and hydro systems. I started out with a 5 gallon DWC bucket. A 315 CMH light. AC infinity carbon filter and exhaust fan. After countless hours of reading and videos I thought I had what I needed. Little did I know.

One of the things that made a huge difference for me was not understanding that the exhaust fan need to be blown into another room (not the room the grow tent is in) or preferably outside. I have my setup in a 4x10 closet with one AC vent in the room. Sending the exhaust into the room warmed it 7-10 degrees and it’s only April. The temps in the tent were over 90. There won’t be any success with a DWC system in 90+ degree water and outside temps. Running the exhaust fan outside got me to around 85-88.

The next thing is that with the CMH light and exhaust on full my humidity was around 25-28%. Also not ideal and not going to bring success. In order to combat this I added a humidifier. This dropped my temps down to 80-84 and brought my humidity to 50%. I only run it 30 mins prior to lights coming on and until 30 mins after the lights go off. Running it when the lights are off brought humidity to 70-80% fairly quickly. No need to give ideal conditions for mold.

You can certainly have success growing in the low 80’s but not if your water is in the low 80’s. To alleviate this I added a chiller and 20 gallon reservoir outside the tent to keep water at 70 degrees and made this a recirculating system.

Of course there are other things that could be done. I would have liked to have used an AC unit to cool the tent and not had to have had a chiller but that wasn’t an option for me.

I am using Advanced Nutrients complete system for my nutrients.

This is just the start to my journey and will update as I have more information. Like most I am very excited and my first plant is Ethos Genetics – CrescendO RBXV2 Feminized. Pushing 30% THC content can’t wait! Thanks for reading.
venting your exhaust out of the room the tent is in is huge. this is something that stumps a lot of new growers. good look with your grow nice post.
 

KoolaidMan

Active Member
I wish I had the chance to talk to you and tell you what nonsense DWC is and that you would have been so much happier just running drain to waste with pro-mix, saved yourself a lot of money and hassle. Most likely you would not have listened though, good news is you can still stop the madness and make the change. Wouldn't bet on it though, nothing about you, just the way things are, too many people wanting to prove that they can make life harder.
DWC by itself kinda sucks. But a recirculating system (RDWC), its pretty hassle free and provides more control and faster growth.
 
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