There can only be one first time...

Jus Naturale

Active Member
Hey all,

I'm a long-time smoker, recent MMJ patient, Colorado resident, and new grower. Before MMJ, I was a simple schwag smoker, unschooled in the many, many varieties available. I didn't know that there really were multiple strains (I thought the names were the brain-children of creative dealers, and nothing more). I also didn't knew there was even a difference between indica and sativa. Not to mention, I never grew a darn thing. I was the kind of person who could kill an air cactus, and, in fact, did so once.

In any event, I've since learned loads about many, many things (due, in large part, to these forums). I've since got a bag seed (schwag) that I've grown into a reasonably healthy plant I plan to flower soon, and also have a seedling (or two, if I'm lucky) of some Double Bubble Kush I pulled out of a nug from a local dispensary.

THE BEGINNING:

I started with a bunch of seeds I pulled out of a bag of schwag, and a single bulb 2 foot t5 light. I germed a few in a cup with distilled water, and a few in paper towels. Only one (in the water) popped a taproot, but I planted them all. My soil I had a few small clay pots and some Miracle Grow Seed Starter. I didn’t want to use MG, but it was all I could find (I hadn't yet realized the importance of the local grow shop) so that's what I used. Anyway, a few days later, up popped a seedling (Plant 1)! Unfortunately, at this point, I had not yet started to keep notes or take pictures, but the initial growth was textbook. I was running the light 24/0, by the way, to give growth a boost. The temperature was between 72 and 88, and the humidity was between 16-21% (it’s Colorado, so it’s naturally dry).

While I had used distilled water from the beginning, and had a pH testing kit (aquarium drops), I didn’t routinely test the water. And, like most first-timers, I watered too much. Every other day or so, I would crack open the gallon bottle and wet the dirt pretty thoroughly. I also took to the internet to read and re-read everything I could find about growing.

I discovered what npk meant, that seedling mix soils usually don’t provide many nutrients, and that slow growth might be the result of a hungry plant. So I, like so many first-timers, got some nutrients. I knew I needed n for veg growth, and I ended up with a tiny bottle of Daniels’ Organic Plant Food (10-4-3). Well, for unknown reasons, I decide, “I’ve got about ¼ gallon or so of water left in the jug, and this says add 1 tsp per gallon, so if I do like a couple drops (directly from the nute bottle, of course), that’ll be perfect!” I’m sure you can tell where this went wrong. The twitch was almost imperceptible, but the second drop suddenly became a drip and my ¼ gallon now had about a full teaspoon worth of nutes.

THE POOR, POOR PLANT

Now rather than act rationally, and simply dispose of the 4X-strength nute-water (which I hadn’t pH tested since opening the jug for the first time), I decided that I could simply add a touch of 4X nute-water, and add about three times as much water from a new jug. So, for the same unknown reasons, I did exactly that. Except, the other jug of water wasn’t new either; it had been open nearly as long as the first. And I didn’t pH it either. Well, I notice over the next few days that my once seemingly happy, albeit slow-growing, plant had stopped growing. The leaves started to shrivel and contort; patches appeared along the leaf surfaces, and burning appeared along their edges. The leaves that didn’t burn to a crisp curled under, like arthritic hands, and the entire plant took on a pale, limp appearance.

EMERGENCY TREATEMENT

“What could be causing the problem?” I wondered, and back to the internet I went. Why would a seemingly healthy plant suddenly become so sad? My mind whirled: “It’s always been a slow-grower -- what would cause that? It can’t be a lack of nutrients because I just burned half the leaves off. Hmm… Of course! Plants can only grow as big as the energy they get from the light source. I have only a single t5 bulb. Ergo, I need more light!” And, it just so happened that my local grow shop was having a sale on lights. My natural reaction at that point was to peruse the lights online for the next day and a half and decide which one(s) I couldn’t live without. A few hours later, I was setting up my brand new 4 bulb 2 foot t5 set-up. I put my plant under the light and hoped for the best.

For the next few days, the plant continued to worsen, and, like a concerned parent, I hovered between checking the plant and searching for answers online. After many too many hours spent online, reading forum after forum about sick plants, seeing the now-familiar graphics of sick leaves from growing books, and determining that my plant was suffering from some of everything, I deduced that after being burned, it locked-out. The poor thing was starving (and, although I didn’t realize it at the time, drowning). Reading about lock-out, I further determined that the plant must have a pH problem. That’s when the importance of pH testing really became apparent to me, and so I got back online and went back to the forums to study.

I learned that as the distilled water sits in the jug, it’s pH changes. It drops, thus becoming ever-so-slightly acidic. I also learned that nutes can lower pH, so I tested some of the 4X nute-water (which I had stopped using since burning the plant), and the pH was super low (around a 4 or so). I didn’t have a soil pH tester yet, but I figured the plant must be suffering from pH lockout. It was way too acidic, so I needed to make it more alkaline, and fast. At this point, the plant was really, really looking bad, and, I’d say near death. Thus, I was ready to try anything.

I was smart enough (this time) to realize that milk was probably a bad idea, but it was late and I wouldn’t have much time over the next few days to do anything to help the poor plant survive. Then I had the brilliant idea of using baking soda. I searched online for a bit and, though some warned against it, others said it had worked for them – so long as they used a light touch with it. Yet, I found nothing discussing proportions, so I had to guess. After some initial futzing, I wound up with a solution of 2 tsp of baking soda in 2 cups of (freshly opened and pH tested at about 6.5) distilled water. I pH tested the solution and it was somewhere in the 8 range. Since I was just guessing at the whole thing, I poured the entire 2 cups of baking soda solution into the soil, and again hoped for the best.

Well, lo and behold, a couple days after that and the plant was on the rebound! New growth had started, and the leaves had greened and perked up!

THE REBOUND

The plant was alive, growing, and happy. Though the growth was still slow, it was solid and steady. I had kept the plant from dying, and was hooked! I became much more serious: pH testing the water regularly, figuring out that I was overwatering (which was causing the leaves to curl under) and adjusting, buying some Happy Frog soil, getting a timer and starting to taper off of the 24/0 schedule, and getting a soil pH meter and npk testing kit.

I also picked up a couple larger plastic pots, as the plant was starting to look a bit big for the small clay pot. Once I was convinced that Plant 1 was on the mend, I decided that I should probably transplant it into a larger pot, and into some happy frog. So I did, and the transplant went well. Within a couple days, Plant 1 really perked up and redoubled growth. The happy frog made for a happy plant.

Right around that time, I also pulled a bunch of seeds from a double bubble kush (dbk) nug from a local dispensary, and set a couple of them to germinate by soaking in distilled water.

SECOND GERMINATION

After one of the dbk seeds popped a tail, I planted them both in one of the small clay pots, filled with straight happy frog. A few days later, I had a seedling peeking up from the dirt, so I removed the saran wrap humidity cover. A day later, the seed still sat on the top, though it was a bit taller and a bit twisted. I really tried not to be impatient, but I thought that since the seed was pretty new, the shell may not have sufficiently hardened enough to cleanly crack, so I gave the shell a bit of help popping off of the cotyledon leaves. A small membrane remained on one of the leaves, and wouldn’t come off, so I just left it to grow.

Anyway, as the cotyledon leaves unfolded, the one with the membrane grew at a slightly slower rate, though it didn’t appear to be an issue. Then, a single first true leaf appeared, with small, white dot opposite it. I just kept an eye on things, deciding to take a much more hands-off approach. Well, the first true leaf grew out a bit, and the white dot grew into a small, white line. The leaf was really, really dark green. The next day, the leaf was a bit bigger, and turning crispy around the edges. The white line was now showing some signs of green in the middle as well, though just as dark as the other leaf. Anyway, as the days went by, the leaves continued to grow – but in a very unusual way. It was almost as if the crispy edges kept the leaves from getting larger, thus, as the leaves grew, they simply bunched up. I’d never seen anything like it, and despite spending many too many hours searching online (once again), I still haven’t.

In any event, I had the pot right up next to the light, so the top of the plant was about two inches from the lights. But, given the odd growth of the leaves, I decided that I wanted it to try to grow taller. I wanted to see if it would grow taller, if it would grow more leaves, etc., so I dropped the pot by a couple inches, so the top of the seedling was about four inches from the lights.

TIME KEEPS ON SLIPPING INTO THE FUTURE

As Plant 1 continued to grow, the leaves got much bigger and healthier, and the new growth has been amazing to watch. Plant 1 not only has been growing like crazy, but it’s also started to develop the little shoots near where it will eventually start growing pistils (hopefully) or pollen sacs. It’s also about 7 inches tall. These two things mean that – despite enjoying watching it grow, get sick, get healthy, and grow some more – it was telling me that it’s time to start flowering.

As for the dbk seedling, having dropped it a couple inches lower, its color has improved (not as dark), it’s not crisping around the edges any more, and it’s started growing a second set of leaves, which look healthy.

RIP DBK2

Not mentioned above are the two dbk seeds I germinated after the first dbk seeds yielded an odd-leafed seedling. I germed in paper towels, on top of the cable box. After three days, one seed had a nice-looking tail, and after four and a half, it had almost a half-inch taproot. I didn’t want the happy frog to burn it, so I mixed some of the MG seed started, happy frog, and some MG perlite (which I washed pretty well to try to get the MG out); filled a peat pot with the mix; and planted the seeds. I watered and loosely covered the peat pot with saran wrap (as I had a good breeze going through to encourage strong stem growth in the first dbk seedling as it got taller).

A few days later, another dbk seedling broke the surface! Dbk2 was born! Remembering the issue with the seed on the first dbk seedling, I attempted to help the seed pop off. While the shell came off fairly easily, there was still a membrane on the cotyledon leaves – only, thicker this time.

Wanting to encourage strong growth, I put the peat pot on the soil in the pot with the dbk seedling, which meant that the top of dbk2 was about an inch and a half away from the lights. Unfortunately, my new hands-off approach, coupled with my inexperience at using peat pots, didn’t bode well for dbk 2. Alas, I let it dry out too much, too often; then watered too much when I found it dry. The poor, poor seedling didn’t stand a chance.

Well, between the issues with the membrane (which slowed cotyledon growth a bit) and the watering/drying cycles, the poor seedling died. It was two weeks from germ to all signs of green disappearing.

FLOWERING AND DBK3

Recognizing that it’s probably time to switch to a 12/12 flowering cycle for Plant 1, that I don’t want to continue to have light spilling out in greater increments as the plants grow and I raise the lights, and that I will want to control light coming to the plant during the dark cycles as much as possible, today I made a light dome. I’ll be switching to 12/12 soon, but I want to give the dbk seedling a chance to continue to get taller, and it’s second leaves to develop more; and I planted more dbk seeds (dbk3).

For dbk3, I took two more seeds, and, using a sand paper tube, lightly scuffed them. I then made a soil mix of (approx.) 1 part happy frog, 2 parts washed perlite, 1 part dolomite, and 5 parts MG seed starter. I wet the mix down well while mixing, filled a small clay pot with the mix, planted the scuffed seeds about ¼ inch deep, and added a touch more water. I saran wrapped the top to act as a humidity cover, but poked a few holes to keep it from getting too damp. And now I wait.

The plan is to try to grow the dbk seedling and anything that pops from the dbk3 under a 12/12 from seed (sort of, since not exactly starting all under 12/12), and allow Plant 1 to flower as well. Hopefully, they’re all female, but, again, only time will tell!
 

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bseeds

Well-Known Member
its good that your learning by your mistakes and know how to find the cure for sick plants by books and other information thats out there instead keep asking questions that are easly found on internet like most people do on here
 

bmeat

New Member
be careful with the heat (60-80f) with still air and humidity (40-60%), with over watering (the roots really need that o molecule to work properly, just as much as the vegetation), and THE NUTES! not more than once a week, only after theyve entered the veg cycle. NO FOOD IN SEEDLING, all they need is the sugar they make from the sun at this point.
 

Jus Naturale

Active Member
Thanks for the well-wishes, all! And, bmeat, thanks for the info. It's been a ride already, and more education than I thought possible within such a short time frame.

Anyone have any thoughts about the odd-leafed seedling in the pics? It's like the nute burn around the edges (caused by planting into straight happy frog, no additional nutes, but not cut either) caused them to grow round-ish and ruffly. Will the seedling grow ok once it gets going? Will the stress cause it to herm (not fem'ed seeds)? Will it ever grow taller, or simply focus growth into the already large, but odd-looking leaves? Any suggestions are helpful!
 

Sand4x105

Well-Known Member
you state:
the humidity was between 16-21% (it’s Colorado, so it’s naturally dry).
You might want to buy a little humidifier for your grow...
Around $20 [Wal/Rite/CVS]
IMO, your RH is way to low, and your plants will like more...
I bring ambient air into room, usually between 29-36% then add humidity... Veg room runs [RH wise] between, 45-69%...
With Bud room running around 35-42 %
---
Note, when rain stops, and ground freezes, the RH here stays around 25-35%
My Bud room runs RH about 10 points lower than Vegg...
In December, when first cold wave hit, rain stopped, and Bud room dropped to low 20% RH for a couple of days...
Damage to two plants buds [tallest of plants were up near lights were RH is lower]...happened [sheiot happens]
Learned lesson, stay on top of humidity....
Read RH at your floor, then up near your lights, you'll be surprised...
Good growing !
 

Indoor Sun King

Well-Known Member
Anyone have any thoughts about the odd-leafed seedling in the pics? It's like the nute burn around the edges (caused by planting into straight happy frog, no additional nutes, but not cut either) caused them to grow round-ish and ruffly. Will the seedling grow ok once it gets going? Will the stress cause it to herm (not fem'ed seeds)? Will it ever grow taller, or simply focus growth into the already large, but odd-looking leaves? Any suggestions are helpful!
yes, your plants seem to have nute burns or have been over watered.
 

bmeat

New Member
to raise humidity, you can get some bowls of water by a heat source, like the lights.

the warmer, the quicker the water will evaporate into humidity for your plants

make sure the soil dries out before you water it. if you havent been feeding, the temps havent been over 85f and the air has been circulating, then youre drowning the roots and thats why the plants are dying.
 

Trousers

Well-Known Member
you state:


You might want to buy a little humidifier for your grow...
Around $20 [Wal/Rite/CVS]
IMO, your RH is way to low, and your plants will like more...
I bring ambient air into room, usually between 29-36% then add humidity... Veg room runs [RH wise] between, 45-69%...
With Bud room running around 35-42 %
---
Note, when rain stops, and ground freezes, the RH here stays around 25-35%
My Bud room runs RH about 10 points lower than Vegg...
In December, when first cold wave hit, rain stopped, and Bud room dropped to low 20% RH for a couple of days...
Damage to two plants buds [tallest of plants were up near lights were RH is lower]...happened [sheiot happens]
Learned lesson, stay on top of humidity....
Read RH at your floor, then up near your lights, you'll be surprised...
Good growing !


I am in CO and deal with humidity between 12% and about 30%.
I would never add a humidifier. Once you get a few grows under your belt and start getting fat buds, you are just asking for mold.

If you do add humidity, which I would not recommend it unless you are very experienced, make sure to circulate air around the buds and through the canopy to prevent mold. and do not listen to bmeat.
 

Jus Naturale

Active Member
Thanks all for the suggestions about humidity. I knew it should be higher (for veg, at least, for sure), but had also read that the inexpensive humidifiers often caused too great of fluctuation to make the plants happy. Anyone had problems of that sort? (I do have a tendency to over-read, over-think and, apparently, over-write, so I'm probably the biggest problem.)

yes, your plants seem to have nute burns or have been over watered.
Agreed. The plant -- oh the poor, poor plant -- suffered from over watering, nute burn, and lockout; but most of all, from my ignorance. We've grown together, though, and we're both better for it. As for the seedling in the pics: I think the uncut happy frog was simply too hot for starting seeds. Any thoughts about a prognosis, or suggestions for overcoming the damage already done?
 

Trousers

Well-Known Member
Do not add humidity until you have more experiece.
Cheap humidifiers and small spaces are a recipe for trouble.


how did your seedligns get mold then trousers?
I have never had mold on seedlings.
I did have a spot of mold on the inside of a large bud once. I got a pound that run.
What is your best yield so far?
 

Jus Naturale

Active Member
I am in CO and deal with humidity between 12% and about 30%.
I would never add a humidifier. Once you get a few grows under your belt and start getting fat buds, you are just asking for mold.

If you do add humidity, which I would not recommend it unless you are very experienced, make sure to circulate air around the buds and through the canopy to prevent mold. and do not listen to bmeat.
Cool. I'm hoping to modify the environment as little as possible, so avoiding a humidifier would be preferable. Not to mention, I'd hoped that a lower humidity would keep me from having to worry about mold. Either way, I'll probably spend the next 72 hours reading everything I can find about growing and humidity levels before actually doing anything.

Btw, I also have a fan going in the room (which I reposition a bit whenever I'm caring for the plants), to encourage stem strength and keep it from getting too hot under the lights, and often allow ambient air from other rooms to circulate through as well.
 

hotrodharley

Well-Known Member
Do not add humidity until you have more experiece.
Cheap humidifiers and small spaces are a recipe for trouble.




I have never had mold on seedlings.
I did have a spot of mold on the inside of a large bud once. I got a pound that run.
What is your best yield so far?
How much does a dead seedling weigh?
 

Jus Naturale

Active Member
By the way, I just realized that the pictures are out of order. They are all of two plants, Plant 1 and the odd-leafed seedling. The correct order is:

Plant 1
4
2
1
14
5
6
7

Seedling​
3
13
8
12
11
10
9
 

bmeat

New Member
Do not add humidity until you have more experiece.
Cheap humidifiers and small spaces are a recipe for trouble.

I have never had mold on seedlings.
I did have a spot of mold on the inside of a large bud once. I got a pound that run.
What is your best yield so far?
i thought you lost two of a train seedlings to "white mildew"? lying snakemen.

i dont know why the tip of my taproot died. im not happy about it though.
 
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