Timber grow lights?

Nenno44

Nenno44

Well-Known Member
as far as the crees go you can get better or equal chips for cheaper. the frame is 3x3ft. But I think I will go to 40x40in or even 42x42in made from 8020 extrusion. ill know for sure after this weekend after i check out my ppfd with my par meter( that i finally just bought after a few months of using the light). as far as spacing its tight it is a 3x3 frame, I would have to measure to know for sure. i can tell you the spacing of bars 2 & 4 are very tight because they are running much softer and are citi clu048 1212 2700k 90cri, and they are in there more for color than anything. ill go measure and come back with numbers
 
RainDan

RainDan

Well-Known Member
_Mango_ said:
Had this about a week:
http://timbergrowlights.com/225-watt-cree-cxb3590-linear-framework/
Been happy with it so far. Put it on a kill a watt yesterday and it was drawing 215 watts which is close enough to what it should be unlike the g8led 240 watt it replaced that was drawing 155 watts lol.
Great customer service too.
Click to expand...
Hello @_Mango_

Thank you for the post - I appreciate it very much.

Here's a small tip - we make all our potentiometers removable (it's a waterproof fitting between the potentiometer and the power supply). We did that for two reasons:

1. The potentiometer is an analog device and as such is the part of any build most prone to failure. Making it removable helps in the event of a failure- you won't experience any down time and won't have to send the whole power supply (or framework) to us for repair. Just clip a new harness in place.

2. If you run the Meanwell HLG series with the potentiometer disconnected, the wattage at the wall (draw) will actually meet or exceed the stated ratings by Meanwell. This doesn't hurt the fixture and allows you to gain a little more wattage, and in turn, more PAR watts. You can simply connect it whenever you require dimming.

Hope this helps.

Have a good evening.

Regards,
Dan
 
Budsie

Budsie

Member
Nenno44 said:
as far as the crees go you can get better or equal chips for cheaper. the frame is 3x3ft. But I think I will go to 40x40in or even 42x42in made from 8020 extrusion. ill know for sure after this weekend after i check out my ppfd with my par meter( that i finally just bought after a few months of using the light). as far as spacing its tight it is a 3x3 frame, I would have to measure to know for sure. i can tell you the spacing of bars 2 & 4 are very tight because they are running much softer and are citi clu048 1212 2700k 90cri, and they are in there more for color than anything. ill go measure and come back with numbers
Click to expand...
please let me know what you come up with, I'd be interested to know. I have a few weeks before I order a few kits but I'm going to try to get the frame together this weekend or next. As far as the K rating, I had planned with going all 3500k as I have no experience with growing or lightning, I figure it would be the best route and take a lot of the guess work out of it
 
Nenno44

Nenno44

Well-Known Member
Budsie said:
please let me know what you come up with, I'd be interested to know. I have a few weeks before I order a few kits but I'm going to try to get the frame together this weekend or next. As far as the K rating, I had planned with going all 3500k as I have no experience with growing or lightning, I figure it would be the best route and take a lot of the guess work out of it
Click to expand...
on bars 1,3,&5 the cobs are 11in apart and the bars themselves are about 10in
 
_Mango_

_Mango_

Member
RainDan said:
Hello @_Mango_

Thank you for the post - I appreciate it very much.

Here's a small tip - we make all our potentiometers removable (it's a waterproof fitting between the potentiometer and the power supply). We did that for two reasons:

1. The potentiometer is an analog device and as such is the part of any build most prone to failure. Making it removable helps in the event of a failure- you won't experience any down time and won't have to send the whole power supply (or framework) to us for repair. Just clip a new harness in place.

2. If you run the Meanwell HLG series with the potentiometer disconnected, the wattage at the wall (draw) will actually meet or exceed the stated ratings by Meanwell. This doesn't hurt the fixture and allows you to gain a little more wattage, and in turn, more PAR watts. You can simply connect it whenever you require dimming.

Hope this helps.

Have a good evening.

Regards,
Dan
Click to expand...
Awesome. I love easy little tweaks like that. Thanks Dan.

Edit: Also I knew there had to be a reason it was a little off on wattage.
 
DudebeDoobie

DudebeDoobie

Well-Known Member
RainDan said:
Hello @_Mango_

2. If you run the Meanwell HLG series with the potentiometer disconnected, the wattage at the wall (draw) will actually meet or exceed the stated ratings by Meanwell. This doesn't hurt the fixture and allows you to gain a little more wattage, and in turn, more PAR watts. You can simply connect it whenever you require dimming.

Hope this helps.

Have a good evening.

Regards,
Dan
Click to expand...
So to maximize Par run disconnect the potentiometer?
 
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C

chuckie86

Well-Known Member
RainDan said:
Hello @_Mango_

Thank you for the post - I appreciate it very much.

Here's a small tip - we make all our potentiometers removable (it's a waterproof fitting between the potentiometer and the power supply). We did that for two reasons:

1. The potentiometer is an analog device and as such is the part of any build most prone to failure. Making it removable helps in the event of a failure- you won't experience any down time and won't have to send the whole power supply (or framework) to us for repair. Just clip a new harness in place.

2. If you run the Meanwell HLG series with the potentiometer disconnected, the wattage at the wall (draw) will actually meet or exceed the stated ratings by Meanwell. This doesn't hurt the fixture and allows you to gain a little more wattage, and in turn, more PAR watts. You can simply connect it whenever you require dimming.

Hope this helps.

Have a good evening.

Regards,
Dan
Click to expand...
Hey i was looking to order from.you guy its would be first time.uing this lights i have leds marshydro and dont.like they way they grow so wanted something way better and wanted to see what is the best but less expesive for a 8x4 grow tent thanks
 
_Mango_

_Mango_

Member
RainDan said:
Hello @_Mango_

Thank you for the post - I appreciate it very much.

Here's a small tip - we make all our potentiometers removable (it's a waterproof fitting between the potentiometer and the power supply). We did that for two reasons:

1. The potentiometer is an analog device and as such is the part of any build most prone to failure. Making it removable helps in the event of a failure- you won't experience any down time and won't have to send the whole power supply (or framework) to us for repair. Just clip a new harness in place.

2. If you run the Meanwell HLG series with the potentiometer disconnected, the wattage at the wall (draw) will actually meet or exceed the stated ratings by Meanwell. This doesn't hurt the fixture and allows you to gain a little more wattage, and in turn, more PAR watts. You can simply connect it whenever you require dimming.

Hope this helps.

Have a good evening.

Regards,
Dan
Click to expand...
Wow. You were not kidding about the power supply. I measured again and it's pulling 255 watts now! Thanks.
 
Shaggn

Shaggn

Well-Known Member
I'm running 2 Mars hydro reflector series 144/5 in a 3x3 tent. It works as good as or better than my previous 600hps. That being said I've grown tired of the blurple light. Now my problem is affording my transition to some timber cob kits!! More than likely I will have to buy smaller kits to build up to full timber power.

I used to veg in a 4x4 but currently veg in a 2x4 but will be upgrading back to a 4x4. What citi, vero or cree kit is best as a standalone for veg only in a 4x4? Or 2 kits, where I could start with one n add the other kit later. My bloom tent will be upgraded from a 3x3 to a 4x6 or 4x8. I will be buying full timber kits for bloom tent as well.Thanks for advice. Peace!!
 
Hybridway

Hybridway

Well-Known Member
DogiTwch said:
If i can grow 4-6 plants with a scrog setup and then trim when needed to get lots of light on plants and buds.

I would be glad to have 200g dried per plant, but i bet its more like 100g dried per plant.

Medium would be coco coir with 20-30% perlite in 10 gallon pots.

Nutes well i am still debating on which ones either advanced or FF.
Click to expand...
If your looking to yield 100-200 g's all you need is 5gall-7gall Potts. Anything more will be a waste of nutes, coco & efficient growing.
 
Hybridway

Hybridway

Well-Known Member
Budsie said:
Hey guys, I'm trying to light a 4x4x8 tent. I've been doing a lot of research and it's blowing my mind lol... I came down to 3 or 4 options.. First was 2 platinum p 600 lights, top shelf lights duolux 600, there were 3 different amare lights I was thinking about, 2 of the pro 4 or pro 3 and the se 450 and finally 1 of these timber grow lights pre-built


http://timbergrowlights.com/600-watt-citizen-clu048-4x4-framework/

Or


http://timbergrowlights.com/600-watt-cree-cxb3590-4x4-framework/

They're both 600w and both have 12 cobs, only difference is the bulb, 1 is a cree Cxb 3590 and 1 is a citizen clu048.
I've read a lot of good things about these timber lights and I've also heard good things about the other options. This is a big purchase and trying to get my best option with the best coverage. I plan on using this light for vegging and bloom cycle. Any and all advice from people that actually use or are knowledgeable in any or all of the lights mentioned would be greatly appreciated. One last question about the timber lights. How do you know how high to adjust the dimmer?
Click to expand...
You asked about Amare. 2 Pro-4's will give you great coverage of a true full spectrum. Another plus is you asked to have a veg option. They provide that as well a reflector/ lens conbo if so desired. 35k isn't exactly the best veg K-temp nor is it the best flower spectrum IMO. Just a good middle ground. If you went Timber, I'd go 5k for veg & 3k for flower.
$ ($1.63w) w/ a 5 year warranty. Great service. Tons of documented great results.
That's what I use. I own 6 Pro-4's, 1 SE-450 & the Pro-9. Love em.
Whatever you choose, I hope you're happy & successful.
Timbers awesome to I hear but I only have experience w/ Amare.
 
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Shaggn

Shaggn

Well-Known Member
I know what to do now or have a pretty good idea lol. I'm going to buy

http://timbergrowlights.com/200-watt-citizen-clu048-4-cob-grow-light-kit/ in 3500
&
http://timbergrowlights.com/250-watt-citizen-clu048-5-cob-grow-light-kit/ in 3000

For a 3x3 with the 3000s placed in an X and the 3500s placed in the empty spaces. Would be 450w worth of cob in the tent. Should I use the reflectors or not? Would i get a hot spot in the middle. If so would 2 - 4cob kits work better with an open spot in the middle. Thx
 
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Rottedroots

Rottedroots

Well-Known Member
I'm giving her all she'll take captain. Well at least I thought I was. I've got 900W of Timber Grow wired to a single potentiometer and I'm cranking it right so if i can get a little more why not? Danimal it looks like your giving it the big thumbs up so consider it done. DC the potentiometer.
 
RainDan

RainDan

Well-Known Member
chuckie86 said:
Hey i was looking to order from.you guy its would be first time.uing this lights i have leds marshydro and dont.like they way they grow so wanted something way better and wanted to see what is the best but less expesive for a 8x4 grow tent thanks
Click to expand...
Hello @chuckie86

Thank you for your post - I appreciate it. I am happy to assist you with your lighting needs - feel free to send me a PM, or you can also reach me by email at dan@timbergrowlights.com or by telephone at 866-892-6354.

Have a good day.

Regards,
Dan
 
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