Tips and tricks for fixing damaged drywall? The home repair DIY thread.

neosapien

Well-Known Member
Does the government know your working if you are claiming disability? Just asking, not judging. I know around here being on disability and working under the table jobs is stealing from the government. I just wanted to know. I am not trying to start another argument either!

chronichaze
You can work and still collect disability.
 

Unnk

Well-Known Member
Does the government know your working if you are claiming disability? Just asking, not judging. I know around here being on disability and working under the table jobs is stealing from the government. I just wanted to know. I am not trying to start another argument either!

chronichaze
funny you assume im collecting dissability when my point is this

i have a disability YET work and have a degree

i dont collect disability

im old and still work my ass off
 

OGEvilgenius

Well-Known Member
Any tips for removing stuck drill bits? Vice grip tear = no good (teeth on grip are getting broken). Higher powered drill = no good (can smell motor frying on attempt). Was running electrical on the exterior to my room and had to drill through the top drywall above the door frame to remove (actually had a friend who is an electrician do this, he did the job very cheaply, less than half cost so I said I would worry about the stuck drill bit). Any good ideas? Cause god damn it's annoying. Tried hammering it from the side (didn't really want to and didn't do it much as I don't want to get it more stuck), it really doesn't budge. I'm thinking it's wrapped in a nail. A little annoyed he wasn't more conservative and didn't just drill further down given doors typically have a lot more framing 2x4's. Any pointers?
 

Unnk

Well-Known Member
Any tips for removing stuck drill bits? Vice grip tear = no good (teeth on grip are getting broken). Higher powered drill = no good (can smell motor frying on attempt). Was running electrical on the exterior to my room and had to drill through the top drywall above the door frame to remove (actually had a friend who is an electrician do this, he did the job very cheaply, less than half cost so I said I would worry about the stuck drill bit). Any good ideas? Cause god damn it's annoying. Tried hammering it from the side (didn't really want to and didn't do it much as I don't want to get it more stuck), it really doesn't budge. I'm thinking it's wrapped in a nail. A little annoyed he wasn't more conservative and didn't just drill further down given doors typically have a lot more framing 2x4's. Any pointers?


what type of bit is it?

did it completly snap off ?

if its snapped your gonna have to take it all out to get it out if its not you can possibly use a hammer drill to back it out

but its hard to say cause i dont know the details
 

JohnnyGreenfingers

Well-Known Member
EDIT: I decided to make this thread for anyone doing any home DIY projects, go ahead and post your projects and ask questions.


So the last people who lived here really didn't have a clue about painting, lots of drip spots from running paint.. tons of imperfections on the walls. I'm going around the walls and removing the paint, peels off really nice and clean but obviously I get left with some damaged drywall (brown paper fuzzy shit) in some areas. So once I'm finished peeling I'll use a surface sealer like gardz on the fuzzy areas, and then start with the joint compound.

Anybody here that knows about home repair that can give some tricks/tips to really get the walls looking perfect?
If you actually see fuzz in the brown paper that's exposed, cut the paper from that area. Just the paper, not the gypsum underneath. If you don't, you'll sand thru the mud and into the fuzz and it will always look like fur lives under the paint there. Or balls. Little painted blanket fuzz balls. Some pictures would really help but I do have a drywall finisher and a painter among my siblings and I've seen a lot of job sites. Good luck.
 

silasraven

Well-Known Member
i want a wood burner when i get to my new place now all i do is run out the exhaust to the nearest window and use a piece of wood to block the in coming air so all i have to do i calk the metal and tape the sides of the wood and im good right? jerry rigging is a fun thing to do
 

JohnnyGreenfingers

Well-Known Member
i want a wood burner when i get to my new place now all i do is run out the exhaust to the nearest window and use a piece of wood to block the in coming air so all i have to do i calk the metal and tape the sides of the wood and im good right? jerry rigging is a fun thing to do
I would be careful blocking that window off with wood if you're exhausting out of it. Depending on what type of wood burner you go with, that could be a pretty big fire risk. It won't cost you too much more to do it with metal, at least right next to the exhaust pipe going out the window.
 

OGEvilgenius

Well-Known Member
what type of bit is it?

did it completly snap off ?

if its snapped your gonna have to take it all out to get it out if its not you can possibly use a hammer drill to back it out

but its hard to say cause i dont know the details
Standard drill bit you would use to drill a hole in drywall to run some cable, exact type and measurement is unknown. It is not completely snapped off. I can probably find out the type of bit if it helps any (material/diameter). Does Home Depot rent hammer drills? What is a hammer drill? Thanks for your help.
 

JohnnyGreenfingers

Well-Known Member
I see what a hammer drill is now. Any recommendations on type/power? I'm sure Home Depot probably rents them.
Can't you just get a cheap tap out kit from an auto parts store and back it (the broken bit) out? Probably a lot cheaper than a hammer drill. It's just basically two bits, one to grind a hollow into the end of the broken bit and another that grabs into the hollow you make, then reverse it right out. Depending on how big the broken bit is, I think this would be the easiest way. I've never used or rented a hammer drill, though. Good luck.
 

Unnk

Well-Known Member
if its a standard bit then you can use a tap out kit

if it wass a heavy type steel youd need the hammer drill lol

again i work with all types of stuff and some people love to use the best of the best

edit ps

hammer drills are good tools to have and you can get a good one for pretty decent price 50 bucks

essential if your doing masonry work for your garage or foundation work
 

4new2this0

Member
i would say after mudding and sanding before paint use some primer or a flat white before paint so the sanded spots dont bleed throught the paint
 

chronichaze

Well-Known Member
funny you assume im collecting dissability when my point is this

i have a disability YET work and have a degree

i dont collect disability

im old and still work my ass off
Unnk that why I said I was just asking. I know there is a lot of people who collect disability and never work a day in their life. Im glad to see someone with a disability and is actually working and not taking advantage of the assistance givin to them.
 

cannabineer

Ursus marijanus
Any tips for removing stuck drill bits? Vice grip tear = no good (teeth on grip are getting broken). Higher powered drill = no good (can smell motor frying on attempt). Was running electrical on the exterior to my room and had to drill through the top drywall above the door frame to remove (actually had a friend who is an electrician do this, he did the job very cheaply, less than half cost so I said I would worry about the stuck drill bit). Any good ideas? Cause god damn it's annoying. Tried hammering it from the side (didn't really want to and didn't do it much as I don't want to get it more stuck), it really doesn't budge. I'm thinking it's wrapped in a nail. A little annoyed he wasn't more conservative and didn't just drill further down given doors typically have a lot more framing 2x4's. Any pointers?
Rifle bullet ... only need one ...

Someone suggested a screw extractor. Those are fine for mild steel but not the unobtanium of a good drill bit. Do you have a grinder, like an angle grinder or even a Dremel? Grind a pair of nice flats onto the shank. (But not tooo deep ... otherwise you;ll simply snap it off at the transition).Your Vise-Grip should be able to deal with it then ...

Or just grind the bastard below flush, and patch. cn
 

Unnk

Well-Known Member
i was gonna suggest getting a sawzall and metal cutting blade cut it down as far as you you can then grind the bitch flesh lol
 

ganjames

Well-Known Member
Project is still going on, I'm trying to pick carpet.

There's a lot in the Martha Stewart collection, also a very nice blood red carpet in the OJ Simpson collection.
 
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