whats wrong here?

maps84

maps84

Well-Known Member
Harrekin said:
Are all you people retarded or just like giving bad advice? Mg is an IMMOBILE ELEMENT, deficiencies start at the top first.
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Please enlight us with your lucid mind mate, what's his problem and what exactly shall he do to fix it? coz I didn't see any advice coming out your mouth just BS!!!!

Just so you know: Magnesium is mobile in the marijuana plant so if there is a deficiency, the chloroplasts in the middle-aged leaves that are below the flowering top are broken down and the magnesium is transported to the young parts. This process of breaking down the chlorophyll is manifested in the rust brown spots and/or vague, cloud-like chlorotic spots between the veins. It is more difficult to extract magnesium from the older leaves because the magnesium is an intrinsic part of the organic material. A minor magnesium deficiency has little effect on flowering despite the fact that the formation of flowers makes the magnesium deficiency symptoms worse.

Served? or coming back for more?
 
Harrekin

Harrekin

Well-Known Member
Shit I was think Calcium,lol, fucking hash!

Gimme a second.

I'm still pretty sure it's not Mg deficiency tho, what colour are the veins? I cant tell, but if the veins are green whilst in between them yellows thats Mg deficiency. I dunno man, I just can't tell...Im really baked and the pics aint the best and with not knowing anything about your ferts I ain't gonna guess.

Hope someone else can help, or maybe you look it up? Lol.
 
W

watchhowIdoit

New Member
Harrekin said:
Are all you people retarded or just like giving bad advice? Mg is an IMMOBILE ELEMENT, deficiencies start at the top first.
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Magnesium is Mobile. Magnesium deficiencies will show in OLDER growth first. You are the fucktard in this case Harrekin.........

Magnesium

Magnesium is a component of the chlorophyll molecule and serves as a cofactor in most enzymes.

Magnesium (Mg) deficiency.

Magnesium deficiency will exhibit a yellowing (which may turn brown) and interveinal chlorosis beginning in the older leaves. The older leaves will be the first to develop interveinal chlorosis. Starting at leaf margin or tip and progressing inward between the veins.
 
maps84

maps84

Well-Known Member
Harrekin said:
Read my post above...I also see you not offer a solution?
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I get you man the plants look like we all were right! I narrowed it to NKP and Mg because these are the only elements that can cause the branches to turn that red no matter how the leave looks like. Anyways I'm leaning towards the salt build up conclusion too, as temps, PH, ppm, seems to be Ok as the OP confirmed. Flush is the standard solution followed by good planning.

To the OP: Is this happening to all of your plants? or just a few?
 
ismokealotofpot

ismokealotofpot

New Member
just add a teaspoon of calmag plus to the water and water the plant with it dont spray it on. you need calcium to absorb magnesium.
 NITROGEN (N) Pale plants, red stems, smaller growth. Rapid yellowing of lower leaves progressing up the plant. Add any chemical fertilizer containing N. Treated plants recover in about a week.

 PHOSPHORUS (P) Slow or stunted growth, red stems. Smaller leaves that are dark green. Lower leaves yellow and die. Add chemical fertilizer containing P. Affected leaves will not show recovery but new growth will apear normal.

 POTASSIUM (K) Affected plants are usually tallest and appear to be most vigorous. Necrotic spots form on lower leaves. Red stems. Leaves appear pale or yellow. Add chemical fertilizer containing K.

 CALCIUM (Ca) Lack of calcium in the soil results in the soil becoming too acid. This leads to Mg or Fe deficiency or very slow stunted growth. Treat by foliar feeding with one teaspoon of dolomatic lime per quart of water until condition improves.

 SULFER (S) Plants suffering from S definciencies exhibit yellowing of new growth. Mix one tablespoon of Epsom salts per gallon of water until condition improves.

 MAGNESIUM (Mg) Lower leaves yellow and may even turn white while veins remain dark green. Blades die and curl upward.

 IRON (Fe) Leaves on growing shoots turn pale and veins remain dark green. pH imbalances make iron insoluble. Foliar feed with chemical fertilizer containing Fe or rusty water.

 MANGANESE (Mn) Necrotic and yellow spots form on top leaves. Mn deficiency occurs when large amounts of Mg are present in the soil. Foliar feed with any chemical fertilizer containing Mn.

 BORON (B) Growing shoots turn grey or die. Growing shoots appear burnt. Treat with one teaspoon of Boric acid (sold as eyewash) per gallon of water.

 MOLYBDENUM (Mb) Yellowing of middle leaves. Foliar feed with chemical fertilizer containing Mb.

 ZINC (Zn) White areas form at leaf tips and between veins. Occurs in alkaline soils. Zn deficiency can be treated by burying galvanized nails in the soil. Chemical fertilizer containing Zn can also be used.

 OVER FERTILIZATION Causes leaf tips to appear yellow or burnt. To correct soil should be flushed with three gallons of water per one gallon of soil.
 
flawlesscrew

flawlesscrew

Well-Known Member
So my buddy and I flushed the shit out of the plants that were the worst last night. It took for ever and about 500 gallons of water!!!! We could only get some plants to have a run off to 6.2 not matter how much water we used. The run off was originally at around 5.8-5.7 and orange as fuck. It looked like my piss after a night of drinking. I understand AN sucks and will change next crop. I was told it was MG lockout because I have hard water. Is that possible? Should I be supplementing Mg with my watering or feeding. How can I keep the ph at a good level. When I first take my ph of tap water its 7.3 but if I let it sit for a day it bumps up to 8.1 If you have any advice on a feeding plan for the future that would be great. I have 4 medical license(117 plants each) and this is the first room of many I have to set up. Its a bit overwhelming but the only way to learn this shit is to just do it and correct your mistakes every crop. I'm growing OG Kush , purple indicax skunk, BC big bud,white widow. Thanks for your help guys and good advice is the only advice I need:)
 
maps84

maps84

Well-Known Member
You wont be able to buffer the soil just with a flush. You have to up the notch bit by bit or else you'll shock them all to death by trying. Next time you feed use 6.8-7 water, measure the run off and keep playing with the PH until you hit the sweet spot (6.5-7) at this point growth should increase meaning they'd be ok. How can you keep the ph at a good levels in the future? Dolomite Lime 2tbsp per galon of Soil. and If hydro Calmag Plus is good with very fast absorption. Stay away from Epsom Salts (Na)

This is important, while your medium is off you have to complimet with foliar feeding, mix a soft solution don't add calmag as you have hard water already just a bit of micro.
 
flawlesscrew

flawlesscrew

Well-Known Member
I have been using calmag. So I should only use micro? or the micro grow and bloom? My neighbour who is knowledgeable grower said I could use wood ash to bring PH up, but he said he mixes that in with his soil before he plants. So can I put a small layer on the top? I will water with a ph 7 water. But when feeding should I foliar feed everyday or every second day?
 
maps84

maps84

Well-Known Member
Your friend was talking about buffering the soil before potting but trust me it's better to just lime it. Bad news is he didn't tell you how to handle this.

You can feed every day or every two days, judge on results. Best time to do it is right before lights go on.
 
flawlesscrew

flawlesscrew

Well-Known Member
He didn't know how to treat the problem. He only does outdoor and said he has never had this issue. He has 30 years experience but retired 7 years ago and has says I do things different then he would. So should I mix my regular 1:1:1 micro grow bloom formula?
 
apbx720

apbx720

Well-Known Member
mg deficience imo. looking at the chart(right side is soil), mg is taken in at ph above 6.3. u might want to raise yr ph to 6.5 or so for a while. peace
 
maps84

maps84

Well-Known Member
watchhowIdoit said:
Runoff pH indicates nothing about the mediums pH. If you want to know your mediums pH then you need to test the medium itself.
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If I water at 7 and it comes out at 6.2 how come this technique doesn't work? it should give you an aprox measure. I'd like to know more about that if you don't mind elaborating
 
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