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rufusgrower

Well-Known Member
How old are ur plants? One of mine are 5 weeks but don't have as much bushyness as urs do. Kinda frustrating b/c I see a lot of ppl's plants younger than mine and are way more bushy and greener all over. About add more light but I seriously need advice. Also what do I do about this. The leaves that have 3 leaflets on them are starting to turn a lil yellowish with brown tips. And the set right after that u can say the same thing but these are going back green. Any help anyone?
my plants are only 19 days in that pic, i've got hardly any light compared to most peoples standards got 2 15w daylight cfls and 1 20 w red spec cfl, what i go is just keep the light as close as possible without burning them, and have you ever herd of LST ?? bending the stalk down to let more light get to the side sprouts keeps your plants small and bushy and increases yield :) check out my thread if you want i could get some more pics of my LST if that would help ?
https://www.rollitup.org/newbie-central/419892-new-grower-cfl-lst-help.html
 

Snow Crash

Well-Known Member
So I have a ques. I have FFOF soil but I know it has Fruit fly eggs in it but Can't get anymore(I'm far away). But I also have some organic sunshine but it is 75% sphag. peat moss, perlite, Dolomite lime, organic wetting agent, and some other omri product not sure but its far less in N than FFOF. So my question is Should I mix them or put FFOF on bottom of my 10g smart pot and fill the rest up with organic sunshine? I'm using Humboldt organic line.

No help? Need help? Anybody?
Well... If you have soil you know is infected you throw it away or you bake it in the oven. Those are your options with the FFOF.

With the Sunshine mix, it doesn't matter how much nitrogen the system will contain as long as you are using your Humboldt Nutrients organic line (I wasn't aware they had one) to feed the soil and the plant.

10 gallon smart pots are too big for an indoor grow. 5 gallons is about as big as you need to get indoors.

If you are growing outdoors then who cares about a few fungus gnats? But inside, keep the bugs out of the grow room.
 

Snow Crash

Well-Known Member
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planted on fri march 18th... think ive been underwatern cuz they seem small for 10 days so im tryn to keep it more wet i was jus scared of overwatern since i heard it was easiest noob mistake so hopefully my plants can recover from a lil drought? plz lemme no wut u thnk thnx
I think there is plenty of moisture in that huge planter for that tiny little plant. You probably need to put your light a little closer.
 

woolfe

Member
I have a few questions for you. =o) I'm starting my first grow. I have a 4 x4 tent, 400 watt hps and a400 watt mh. Right now I'm just running t5s until I sex my seeds. They are about an inch tall right now. Is it too early to 12/12 them? When do I add the nutrients? I'm going to use ionic bloom & grow. My seeds are g13 pineapple express, blueberry gum, and kardy kush. Have you ever tried liquid co2? I have a bottle from aquarium pharmaceuticals called co2 boost. Would you try it? If so when would be a good time to add it? I don't have aco2 system and wasn't planning on adding one. Do you think the liquid would help or hurt? I'm sure I'll have more questions but those are the most important ones right now. Thanks.... Oh and this is a hydro setup..
 
I'm so please to have found this site, i have spent the last two days searching the net and only coming off more confused.
I have smoked plenty but never grown anything other than Lettuce!!
I have purchased some snowryder AF seeds, planted 4 suck them in the outhouse in the heated propigator and all have germinated and have 4 tiny little leafs on. But now i'm stuck &onfused.
Is any one able to provide me with an idiots guide..Lights which, when and for how long,( Is it possible to use a high watt desk lamp?) What should i expect to pay in uk?
What soil should i get at moment there in the little decomposable pots in top seedling soil. I'm sure theres loads more..... Any information will be fab please help me : )
 

odishon

Member
Yes - I know the UTFSE.. but the info overload makes it simpler to ask (even if asked before).. with an auto-strain you can run 24/0 if you want - or so all says.. but if you were to run on 18/8 or 20/4.. how careful do you need to be with "darkness"? As always trying to minimize males.. normal strains are easy to stress up.. but do I need complete darkness if lamp is off? Is a normal room "by night" to bright? Or in that case - better run 24/0 ?
 

Snow Crash

Well-Known Member
I have a few questions for you. =o) I'm starting my first grow. I have a 4 x4 tent, 400 watt hps and a400 watt mh. Right now I'm just running t5s until I sex my seeds. They are about an inch tall right now. Is it too early to 12/12 them? When do I add the nutrients? I'm going to use ionic bloom & grow. My seeds are g13 pineapple express, blueberry gum, and kardy kush. Have you ever tried liquid co2? I have a bottle from aquarium pharmaceuticals called co2 boost. Would you try it? If so when would be a good time to add it? I don't have aco2 system and wasn't planning on adding one. Do you think the liquid would help or hurt? I'm sure I'll have more questions but those are the most important ones right now. Thanks.... Oh and this is a hydro setup..
You can start running a few hundred uS/cm around 10 days from being above ground. They will let you know when they need them, but somewhere in 7 to 10 days from hatching they'll start begging for food. Be sure to pre-treat your rockwool properly.
You can also begin 12/12 lighting whenever you like. I prefer to let them go for 2-3 weeks before flipping.
I have never tried "Liquid CO2" and I think it will probably do more harm than good. Focus on the basics. The temperature/humidity, pH, and nutrient levels are going to make a much larger difference than some magic bottle of CO2.

Yes - I know the UTFSE.. but the info overload makes it simpler to ask (even if asked before).. with an auto-strain you can run 24/0 if you want - or so all says.. but if you were to run on 18/8 or 20/4.. how careful do you need to be with "darkness"? As always trying to minimize males.. normal strains are easy to stress up.. but do I need complete darkness if lamp is off? Is a normal room "by night" to bright? Or in that case - better run 24/0 ?
I have not grown an Auto strain before so I couldn't tell you. Maybe someone else can, but you might need to go figure this out.
I think, when in doubt, just do it right and get it totally dark and run a 18/6 or 20/4 light schedule to give the plants some time to recover. I find that 18/6 lighting and 24/0 lighting grow the same sized plants but one of them uses 25% less energy. Dark periods are important indoors, it isn't like outside with the moon, you usually need it dark to keep the plants from stressing.

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help i dont kno wat this is and i hope it isn't anything i can't reverse :( tell me what you think i should do or what you think it is???
You look like you might be over feeding some nutrients and under feeding others.

Watch your Nitrogen level. It could be the kind of nitrogen you have in your system but that is definitely something to keep you eye on.

The element in short supply looks to be Potassium, and possibly magnesium. This could be a temperature thing, so if your temps are ever over 80 degrees that is a possibility rather than the Potassium shortage. You definitely have some of the early signs of Nutrient Toxicity.

Deep, dark, lush growth that is so green it is nearly blue indicates a phosphorus lockout. The burned tips indicate heat damage, potassium deficiency, or salt-buildup. The interveinal chlorisis (the yellowing between the veins) indicates a mobile element deficiency, usually Magnesium.

My suggestion to you is to rinse the media with a balanced nutrient profile, including nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and calcium all at about the same level, and magnesium at about 1/2 the level of those. Effectively a 1-1-1 with a 1% calcium and 0.5% magnesium. Let me know what nutrients you have and I can tailor something for you to fit this. You want this solution to be about 250 to 350ppm (0.5ec to 0.7ec) and you want to pH balance it for you respective media (5.8 for coco/peat, 6.5 for soil). Then you run 2 to 3 times the volume of water to the volume of media. A 3 gallon planter would need 9 gallons of solution.

Then you'll let it rest for 3 to 5 days (or until they are about 80% of the weight they were when saturated) and by then you should be seeing some yellowing on the lowest leaves (the single and triple bladed ones that are way down by the dirt). This will indicate your plant has recovered and is consuming reserve nutrition to produce healthy new growth. Once you begin to see this happen then you can feed the media again, replenish the microbes and organics, and keep an eye on the nutrient levels from here on out.

You might also have a water problem to investigate. Hard water, of a high starting ppm, can cause the problem you are seeing. The extra calcium and sodium already present in the tap water builds up over time, and the cations then interact with your ionic salts and precipitate in the media. They also force other cations, like magnesium and potassium, to compete (electrically) for absorption by the root system.

However you carve it there is most definitely a little build up and a chemical imbalance that is kicking in. Clean the media and rebuild your organics. Watch your calcium and sodium in your tap water, filter it if you have to.
 

rufusgrower

Well-Known Member

Cigafello

Member
I have black gnats I used raid earth option soap spray "don't use this makes plants unhappy causes dry thin curled leave" I need some ideas to keep them away for good. The spray barely worked at all lol. Check my grow journal as I posted pics of the damage and info about it.
 

rufusgrower

Well-Known Member
I have black gnats I used raid earth option soap spray "don't use this makes plants unhappy causes dry thin curled leave" I need some ideas to keep them away for good. The spray barely worked at all lol. Check my grow journal as I posted pics of the damage and info about it.
yes i think they could be black gnats i have seen some little flys going round my box , have any idea of how to get rid of them ??
 

Snow Crash

Well-Known Member
thanks for all that help i have been using no nutes at all except for worm castings only used a small hand full for when i transplanted my plants into slightly bigger pots, and all my water i use is boiled,
the thing i'm most worried about is the small hole in this pic View attachment 1519822
do you have any idea what it could be for? and also comments on my thread would be more appreciated https://www.rollitup.org/newbie-central/419892-new-grower-cfl-lst-help-2.html
If your water is hard then boiling it is only going to increase the problem. Since you are using no nutrients then I think you probably have a water problem. Boiling it isn't the answer. Filtering it is.

yes i think they could be black gnats i have seen some little flys going round my box , have any idea of how to get rid of them ??
HotShot NoPest Strips work wonders on gnats. They'll all be dead inside of a week. Careful with the thing. You don't want to go inhaling it.
 

Cigafello

Member
Whatever you do don't use raid earth options it doesn't work and makes the plants unhappy. I read of using glass jars filled 1/3 or less with vinegar and a few drops of dish soap. Im going to try this. Also I might try using insect repellent wipes on the sides of the planter and leaving the wipes under the plant I heard that works . Maybe someone here can give us some advice that is tested and safe to use.
 

Bill Davis

Member
Hi there, here is the problem, grow in coco in 5 gallon Plant Warrior type of pots. So I'm flushing today( pushing ph water along with a clearing solution, I look down in the water around the top of the pot and see all this movement, pull out the 30x and see Nematoids big time, how harmful are these little suckers and what can one do to deal with it, it seems water excites them and they seem to pop all over the place. Hopefully you might have encountered this and will share.
 
hey man i was just wondering how u do ur cloning?...last year i just cloned in dirt with gel rooting hormone and had a very high success rate...but this year i tryed jiffy peat pellets and dirt too but i can\t get anything to live??
 

Cigafello

Member
I also wanted to know if there's something scented to keep gnats away from my back porch all together. Please as there are tons of gnats this time of year in florida. I know that it can get really bad in a matter of days.
 

Snow Crash

Well-Known Member
Hi there, here is the problem, grow in coco in 5 gallon Plant Warrior type of pots. So I'm flushing today( pushing ph water along with a clearing solution, I look down in the water around the top of the pot and see all this movement, pull out the 30x and see Nematoids big time, how harmful are these little suckers and what can one do to deal with it, it seems water excites them and they seem to pop all over the place. Hopefully you might have encountered this and will share.
Nematodes aren't necessarily a bad thing in the right place, like outdoors with an aphid problem, but indoors in coco that is an issue I think... If you didn't put them there, and they are thriving, and you don't have another pest issue, then they are probably parasitic and feeding on your plants roots.

Killing them off outright is going to take a while, and might involve some pretty harsh chemical drenches, which I don't recommend. Instead, I think you should try and control the nematodes with fungal trichoderma. These beneficial fungi feed on the chitin that is contained in the nematode eggs and will help you control their populations. Pick yourself up a nice mixture of beneficial fungi, trichoderma and mycorrizhae. Till a good deal of this into the top few inches of the soil and allow it to grow for a little while.

Not an overnight solution but in the long run it is probably the more sensible approach.

Do not reuse this coco... And good luck Bill.
 

Scias13

Member
Hi I'm going to be attempting my first time grow of just one plant here to try things out. I am going to build a custom box, lined with mylar and have a cpu case fan and carbon filter exhaust installed on it. I Imagine the box will be roughly 3-4ft height, 2 ft width and 2 ft depth. Now to move on to my question: I plan on using 3 x 6500k CFL lights + 1 2700k CFL for Veg. phase , and then 3 2700k CFL + 1 6500k CFL for flowering phase. Will this be sufficient lighting for the one plant?(Blackjack Whitestrain) or should I up this? Space is very limited for me and also money x.x

Thanks,

Scias.
 

Bill Davis

Member
Thanks Snow for the option, may very well try it, somebody told me that the little bastards like a moist environment so to dry out the coco completely before re feeding and to put something over the top of the soil like Hydroton to block the light because thats part of their cycle, sound right?
 

Snow Crash

Well-Known Member
Thanks Snow for the option, may very well try it, somebody told me that the little bastards like a moist environment so to dry out the coco completely before re feeding and to put something over the top of the soil like Hydroton to block the light because thats part of their cycle, sound right?
I don't really know enough about them to say one way or another. I'd imagine that drying the soil out could have either effect... I think the beneficial fungi is probably the best way to go about controlling them. Don't use sand, as I hear they actually prefer that kind of environment.

Just don't cover it up with hydroton and think it is all better.
 
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