Why does co2 hurt my plants!?

farmerman421 said:

Good posts guys, no answer to my problem but its been a good discussion. Im impressed with the knowledge and passion that goes into so many grows, didnt realize there were so many of you out there.

I turned off the CO2 burner, and now the plants are drinking again. They are nute deficient from 3 days of not drinking but they just hate CO2. Crazy thing is a buddy is running bottled CO2 and he turned it off after getting the same results - plants stopped drinking!

I'm going to set up box fans at root level and blow air down each row. Add another oscillating fan or two. Increase temp to 85 F. Use a water cooled gas burner. Vent my room to control humidity and removed CO2 after lights turn off. AC to control temp. I will buy a dehumdifier if i can get the CO2 to work in the first place.

I was thinking of venting the CO2 generator to the intake for the AC, does anyone know if this will draw the CO2 in, blow it out the ducting of the AC unit so it spreads across the room?

Im thinking of trying a sulfur burn too, since i battle PM and spraying is only keeping it at bay. Any other suggestions for the PM?

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FilthyFletch said:

Its actually not if you deal with co2 you know air exchange MUST be done. You use dampers and timers if you do not exchange the air your plants suffer. The basic setup of a sealed room is it is sealed from the outside except on command. Say during lights on you are adding CO2. You will have intake and exhaust setup. these are sealed closed via dampers. You fill the sealed room with co2 then most do the air exchanges every 6 hours. Your co2 is timed oppsosite the co2 fills....Sooo exchange one you vent the old air out via an exhaust vent drawn through a carbon filter while at your intake you damper opens and you bring fresh new air in. the time is set on the cfm of your fan and size of your area. Then the timers go off for me in like a 4x8 tent I set it for 5 minutes. The fans go off the dampers close and 1 minute after the dampers close you restart your co2 fill and monitor back to the 1200-1500 ppm rate. I set one exchange just before lights on 2 during the 12 hours and one just as the lights go out as co2 is not used when lights are off so the fresh o2 brought in is needed by the plants. This is a sealed room and it uses co2 and it gives the needed air exchange you must have. Your fans in the area keep the air moving, reduce humidity and you keep fans down low blowing up since co2 is heavier then air....Joe Macclennan you either do not use co2 or are doing so very wrong if you are not doing air exchange. This is very very basic knowledge so I have to shake my head when someone who has no idea what he is talking about trys to interject information that is so far off base. If you do some basic reading and studying and visit any expirenced grower using co2 you d see this right away. Go to a commercial green house running propane co2 generators and they have huge dampers and fans for the purpose of refreshing the air. You must have new non stagnant air or your killing the plants and loosing the entire purpose of co2.

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joe macclennan said:

lol just another hater what the fuck ever dude. you haven't a clue. I've been playing with this for a while now and yes, I've burnt too close to harvest once or twice but I now have that down.

and I have two scrub filters and two dehumidifiers going mr. fucking noitall

My humidity in my room never gets over 55%

as I stated before. the condensation I get is due to being in a steel building but apparently you overlooked that in your haste to judge me.

I thought you were cool with some knowledge on the subject at hand. apparently I was wrong.

get a fuking life man

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Aeroknow said:

Thank you for not making me and every single person I know out to be looney. Now, I've gotten by without dumping my sealed rooms back when I first switched over around 10 yrs or so ago. But, I wasn't really happy with the results. Just seem to grow/yield better dumping the room. I really wish I understood why, but I don't. I usually dump rite when lights out, rite before lights on, than 2 times during light cycle. It's pretty common to do this in real life, I know allot of growers all over Cali. But, on certain forums the answer is usually a blanket statement saying: absolutely no exchange needed.
Maybe they should try it before knockin it.
Every sealed growroom I build these days, can exchange air(dump)whenever I want

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kermit2692 said:

Look at you being a Dick simply because he said he wouldn't smoke your weed...guess what I wouldn't either perpetual root aphids, sulfur burners, mold on the walls, and I've read four pages and you can't get past people wanting to move fresh air into their room lol it's a reset, people like fresh and clean and regardless of if it's necessary it sure doesn't hurt and if you don't know what the air in your room is made up of at the time after co2 had been absorbed for hours after it discharged that's an easy way to be sure your back where you want to be..you come of like a yuppie douche

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farmerman421 said:

Good posts guys, no answer to my problem but its been a good discussion. Im impressed with the knowledge and passion that goes into so many grows, didnt realize there were so many of you out there.

I turned off the CO2 burner, and now the plants are drinking again. They are nute deficient from 3 days of not drinking but they just hate CO2. Crazy thing is a buddy is running bottled CO2 and he turned it off after getting the same results - plants stopped drinking!

I'm going to set up box fans at root level and blow air down each row. Add another oscillating fan or two. Increase temp to 85 F. Use a water cooled gas burner. Vent my room to control humidity and removed CO2 after lights turn off. AC to control temp. I will buy a dehumdifier if i can get the CO2 to work in the first place.

I was thinking of venting the CO2 generator to the intake for the AC, does anyone know if this will draw the CO2 in, blow it out the ducting of the AC unit so it spreads across the room?

Im thinking of trying a sulfur burn too, since i battle PM and spraying is only keeping it at bay. Any other suggestions for the PM?

Click to expand...

farmerman421 said:

Good posts guys, no answer to my problem but its been a good discussion. Im impressed with the knowledge and passion that goes into so many grows, didnt realize there were so many of you out there.

I turned off the CO2 burner, and now the plants are drinking again. They are nute deficient from 3 days of not drinking but they just hate CO2. Crazy thing is a buddy is running bottled CO2 and he turned it off after getting the same results - plants stopped drinking!

I'm going to set up box fans at root level and blow air down each row. Add another oscillating fan or two. Increase temp to 85 F. Use a water cooled gas burner. Vent my room to control humidity and removed CO2 after lights turn off. AC to control temp. I will buy a dehumdifier if i can get the CO2 to work in the first place.

I was thinking of venting the CO2 generator to the intake for the AC, does anyone know if this will draw the CO2 in, blow it out the ducting of the AC unit so it spreads across the room?

Im thinking of trying a sulfur burn too, since i battle PM and spraying is only keeping it at bay. Any other suggestions for the PM?

Click to expand...

farmerman421 said:

Thanks, this is probably the best advice on the whole thread! Obviously something is off, so back to the basics and I will learn something new on the journey (i hope, the other possibility is some environmental, like the paint on reacting to CO2). PM is showing up as white fuzz on the leafs, especially on plants near the end of flower. Can get rid of it, just keeping it at bay.

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