2013-14 Six Plant 600W grow

AimAim

Well-Known Member
I'm pretty sure my problem was too much N as well. I switched to no N for a couple waterings and the new sugar leaves are coming out nice and flat.

Come back in a couple hours and I'll have some fresh pics up.
 

Stevieh

Well-Known Member
I went down to rotate the plants and thought I'd throw a midweek pic of of one plant, a Jack Herer.

Bud development is going awesome on all of them. The one (fuzzy bad) pic of the cola shows an 8" cola developing. That's 20+ centimeters to my metric friends. I hit my goal of getting a lot of medium sized colas, nothing huge that will make the cover of High Times, but consistant moderate sized buds and lots of them.

It's 4 1/2 weeks since the 12/12 flip. I'm probably around half way through flower, I'm sure I have 4+ weeks to go, 6 would be fine. At the rate they are getting chubby these will be some nice fat buds. They have really added some girth the last few days. Starting to smell a bit. Just real pleased with how they are doing.

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How you doing Aim Aim and I am taking us back to this picture because if that's 8" then I would love to hear what you tell the ladies ha ha :)

No mate they are looking awesome still reading though :)

p.s I am leaning towards the Widow as well but this is a close fought battle ....
 

AimAim

Well-Known Member
Ok here we are at about 6 1/2 weeks of 12/12

Starting to get a slight fade on a couple of them. Watering about every 4 days, 1/2 gal per 5 gal pot. I had reduced nutes to about half doses since the one curled, but I'll go back to full dose next watering. I'm feeding with a half dose of Jack's Citrus (20-10-20) and a half dose of an orchid fertilizer (11-35-15), so essentially feeding with 1 tsp of 15-22-17 or thereabouts. Silica every watering, and half doses of CalMag.

The unknown that clawed has resumed normal growth after a couple no-N waterings. I think it is heavy toward sativa, some of which don't appreciate as much N as indicas Super distinct fresh citrus smell like peeling a grapefruit. Cheese smells, well like cheeses do, a mix of goodies. The jacks smelled strong like fresh black pepper a week or two ago, but now more of a turpentine smell. The WWXBG, well she just smells like heaven, very floral, some pine.

Buds are developing nice. The WW X BG is amazing, as are the jacks. Real solid buds and sticky as hell. I've never grown Jack before but it's looking to be a very good yielder. Check out those fat buds! Cheeses are holding their own, I know they will put on a show the last couple weeks as this is not my first rodeo with them

Anyway enjoy, no where done by any means, but we are in the last curve and I think I can see the home stretch coming up.

Peace - AIM
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Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Just a heads up, that 11-35-15 is and will continue to induce micro deficiencies and is dropping out your chlorophyll witness photo #2. Photo #11 is really showing some leaf necrosis problems. If you must give into the low N bloom food hype, I'd stick with the 20-10-20 if I were you. Last thing you need this late in the game is to have a bunch of non-productive leaves. If they're yellow, they're non productive.

Many want to blame N for clawing. Any salt will do that because it's a moisture stress issue not necessarily related to any one salt, especially N. Just because you have leaf claw doesn't mean it's not productive. "Clawed" plant in photo #9 looks dark green and damn healthy to me with nice colas. That's all that counts in this game.

Even Jack's 10-30-20 can induce N and micro deficiencies if used exclusively. The nice thing about that product is he tried to compensate for that problem by increasing the Mg, providing good amount of Fe, and cutting total N with 50% nitrate.

Some myths about P. High P products do non induce good root production, N does. High P products induce stretch.

Tio
 

qroox

Well-Known Member
Just a heads up, that 11-35-15 is and will continue to induce micro deficiencies and is dropping out your chlorophyll witness photo #2. I'd stick with the 20-10-20 if I were you. Last thing you need this late in the game is to have a bunch of non-productive leaves. If they're yellow, they're non productive.

Many want to blame N for clawing. Any salt will do that because it's a moisture stress issue not necessarily related to any one salt, especially N. Just because you have leaf claw doesn't mean it's not productive. "Clawed" plant in photo #9 looks dark green and damn healthy to me with nice colas. That's all that counts in this game.

Tio
Tio,you are probably 100% right.A person commented on my grow thread,said that he had grew Sleestack*Skunk#1 and said that this strain did not like N at all.I found out that it was absolutely not true.I am using a 10-3-7 right now with some micros.Do you think that i should go with double dose + more IF needed ? I still lose 2-3 small leaves from the bottom,and today i lost a big one from the middle.The plant IS green,yet not 100% perfect.I'd give a 80% total.Also.


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This is your work :) .
DSC_0201.jpg
 

AimAim

Well-Known Member
Just a heads up, that 11-35-15 is and will continue to induce micro deficiencies and is dropping out your chlorophyll witness photo #2. I'd stick with the 20-10-20 if I were you. Last thing you need this late in the game is to have a bunch of non-productive leaves. If they're yellow, they're non productive.

Many want to blame N for clawing. Any salt will do that because it's a moisture stress issue not necessarily related to any one salt, especially N. Just because you have leaf claw doesn't mean it's not productive. "Clawed" plant in photo #9 looks dark green and damn healthy to me with nice colas. That's all that counts in this game.
Thanks for your input UB. Just went with the N theory because all the photos of excess N I was seeing looked exactly like that. Plus she had narrow leaves to begin with making me think Sat dominant. When the claw first showed up her leaves were super narrow which to me meant less photosynthetic surface and all that goes with that. I'll take your advice and drop the high P.



I've only fed the high P twice. Until now I had been feeding a mix of the Jack's 20-10-20, and DG Foliage Pro. Never more than a tsp TOTAL of the two (1/2 tsp) of each, and if I saw too many brown tips I would go half of that for a watering. Why did I use both? Because I can't make a decision I guess!

Anyway it's just the one cheese that's fading harder, I'll water her with a full dose of Jacks tomorrow and see if I can get it to slow down. She got bigger a lot quicker than the rest so I was kind of thinking she might just be a fast finisher. ALSO she is not as yellow as that overhead shot would indicate. I had left the curtain open on my room and was getting some HPS bleed out.

Thanks - AIM
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Tio,you are probably 100% right.A person commented on my grow thread,said that he had grew Sleestack*Skunk#1 and said that this strain did not like N at all.I found out that it was absolutely not true.I am using a 10-3-7 right now with some micros.Do you think that i should go with double dose + more IF needed ? I still lose 2-3 small leaves from the bottom,and today i lost a big one from the middle.The plant IS green,yet not 100% perfect.I'd give a 80% total.Also.


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This is your work :) .
View attachment 2957085
Plant looks very healthy. I hope you let it veg for a while. It needs more leaves.

10-3-7 is fine, but I really need to see a complete analysis including salts used to make a call. You have to take into account your soil's nutritional charge too - how much and for how long.

Rule of thumb (aka paradigm) for veg is a 3-1-2 NPK.....bloom is 1-3-2. Reality? You can shit can all that stuff if your plants don't like it. I've see SO many gardeners who witness their plants turning yellow and will continue to hit them with no N or low N foods. Why? Because it's popular. Frickin' brain washed nerds they are. :)

UB
 

qroox

Well-Known Member
Plant looks very healthy. I hope you let it veg for a while. It needs more leaves.

10-3-7 is fine, but I really need to see a complete analysis including salts used to make a call. You have to take into account your soil's nutritional charge too - how much and for how long.

Rule of thumb (aka paradigm) for veg is a 3-1-2 NPK.....bloom is 1-3-2. Reality? You can shit can all that stuff if your plants don't like it. I've see SO many gardeners who witness their plants turning yellow and will continue to hit them with no N or low N foods. Why? Because it's popular. Frickin' brain washed nerds they are. :)

UB
10N= 3.9 nitrate-2.8% ammoniac-3.3% urinal
3P =Phosphorus Pentoxide
7k=i can't really translate that one.i think it is Phosphorus Dioxide
Micros= 0.01% Boron
0,002% Copper
0,10% Iron
0,01% Magnesium
0,002% Molybdenum
0,002% Zinc

It's not complete..is it ?
 

AimAim

Well-Known Member
Aim, sounds like you have it under control.

Good luck!
We shall see. I couldn't stand it so just went and watered her (cheese) with 1 tsp/g Jack's Citrus and 1 tsp/CalMag. They were due to be watered tomorrow anyway,

I still think she just be a different kind of gal, either a faster finisher or needed more N than her sister. Other than the unknown clawed plant, the remaining 5 have been fed exactly the same, every time. Look back at post 10, picture #2 and see how much larger see was early on. She's always marched to a different drummer. As a seedling she got so leggy I had to replant her after 10 days (others were just fine), then after transplant she just took off and left the rest behind for a few weeks.
 

AimAim

Well-Known Member
How you doing Aim Aim and I am taking us back to this picture because if that's 8" then I would love to hear what you tell the ladies ha ha :)
Well from where the flowers started to develop they were solid to the tip, 8" Might not have drawn the line right either, the bottom was hidden in leaf

You will just have to wait until the cut, I'm no good with the pictures I guess.
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
What's with this CalMag stuff? Aren't you getting those minerals from either/or your tap water or soil? Not looking at the label but I think Jack's 20-10-20 has Mg.
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
10N= 3.9 nitrate-2.8% ammoniac-3.3% urinal
3P =Phosphorus Pentoxide
7k=i can't really translate that one.i think it is Phosphorus Dioxide
Micros= 0.01% Boron
0,002% Copper
0,10% Iron
0,01% Magnesium
0,002% Molybdenum
0,002% Zinc

It's not complete..is it ?
Did not catch my point regarding your soil's nutritional charge?
 
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