sixstring2112
Well-Known Member
But you can add 2700k cobs and have all the colors of the rainbow lmao.im planning this very thing,4 qb with 4 x 2700k cree on the cornersI think i would add an extra Qb or two instead of adding cobs.
But you can add 2700k cobs and have all the colors of the rainbow lmao.im planning this very thing,4 qb with 4 x 2700k cree on the cornersI think i would add an extra Qb or two instead of adding cobs.
I think they have a hit on their hands.@MMJ Dreaming 99 and others thinking about adding COBs to a QB setup I say try the QB's first. The QB's themselves give a very even light spread without the need for optics "at least in my reflective walled tent". If you think about it they saved us a lot of hassle with these. No soldering, no thermal paste, no active cooling "normal use", no extravagant DIY fabrication of light frame and I'm sure I'm missing a few more. I'm glad I jumped in and got mine =0)
Doesn't matter.I do like the idea of a fuse holder better. Easier to replace and probably a screw-down vs solder. Not a big deal soldering but kind of a pain if they blow for protection. Does only the positive leg need the fuse or both positive and negative?
3 boards on a 320h c2800b
I was watching a May 2016 GrowMau5 video because he builds a DIY light mover. Why I watched was it moves not very far. I have a Light Rail 3.5 but want to get away from HPS and Stephen's QB looks to be the way to go. My experience with the Light Rail is that a 6 foot run is too far on a light mover unless you have two lights on it.But you can add 2700k cobs and have all the colors of the rainbow lmao.im planning this very thing,4 qb with 4 x 2700k cree on the corners
I have restocked some boards and kits on website if anyone is interested in pre-ordering.
No pre orders on predrilled board heatsinks yet. Trying to arrange as soon as possible.
I do like the idea of a fuse holder better. Easier to replace and probably a screw-down vs solder. Not a big deal soldering but kind of a pain if they blow for protection. Does only the positive leg need the fuse or both positive and negative?
3 boards on a 320h c2800b
Yes it does; one fuse is fine on 120V, but if you hook it up to 240V you'll need fuses on both legs.Doesn't matter.
This is on the secondary side of the power supply. One for each panel when in parallel. True on primary side.Yes it does; one fuse is fine on 120V, but if you hook it up to 240V you'll need fuses on both legs.
What stars are you referring to for the reds? How many stars per board ratio would you recommend?Watts are watts. It will run cooler than a 600 HPS but similar to a 400 HPS/MH. The best thing to do is use a thermostat control on your fan. 82° is good for LEDs with an RH of 50% if the the is lower run a little cooler. Also the cobs could be added but I think I would go with some mono reds if I was looking for a little extra kick. Some of those stars from cutter could be mounted straight to the plate.
Doesn't matter.
For light placement (evenness) a cheap LUX meter will do the trick. You can even get decent par readings using the appropriate multiplier (see par multiplier thread).anyone have any thoughts on a decent par meter? Or anyone interested in selling a used one? I'd like to get my light dialed in.
I've seen this done before, is it worth doing?Maybe even toss a 2 ft uv lamp down the center
I second that. Even a top-drawer SQ-500 is +/- 5% calibration uncertainty. All I have ever used is a Hydrofarm LUX meter (about 35ish dollars) and a correction factor for the light type. I figure the readings with correction factor are +/- 10% or so from a Cadillac PAR meter. It works great for spacing cobs down a bar, spacing the bars, and adjusting for height for even light coverage. My 2 cents worth: buy a LUX meter and save your money for lighting!For light placement (evenness) a cheap LUX meter will do the trick. You can even get decent par readings using the appropriate multiplier (see par multiplier thread).
http://www.cutter.com.au/products.php?cat=660+nMWhat stars are you referring to for the reds? How many stars per board ratio would you recommend?
Exactly. And if you get a 5-gallon paint stir stick (cheap from you local Home Depot or Lowes) you can tape the sensor on the end and move it around the top of the canopy with ease!
I have a cheap lux meter, but really im not sure how to read it properly. I can use it to see if my light is evenly spaced, but im not really sure how much light i should be giving my plants. mine seems to have a multiplier on it. so as the light increases, the numbers get to about 1000x then the last zero drops off.I second that. Even a top-drawer SQ-500 is +/- 5% calibration uncertainty. All I have ever used is a Hydrofarm LUX meter (about 35ish dollars) and a correction factor for the light type. I figure the readings with correction factor are +/- 10% or so from a Cadillac PAR meter. It works great for spacing cobs down a bar, spacing the bars, and adjusting for height for even light coverage. My 2 cents worth: buy a LUX meter and save your money for lighting!
So if you added 2 zeros to that reading it would be 34,700 LUX. Then say you were under a QB board, then the "multiplier" correction factor would be 0.014505. LUX reading times multiplier for about 503 ppfd.I have a cheap lux meter, but really im not sure how to read it properly. I can use it to see if my light is evenly spaced, but im not really sure how much light i should be giving my plants. mine seems to have a multiplier on it. so as the light increases, the numbers get to about 1000x then the last zero drops off.