DIY with Quantum Boards

ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
ChaosHunter said:
@MMJ Dreaming 99 and others thinking about adding COBs to a QB setup I say try the QB's first. The QB's themselves give a very even light spread without the need for optics "at least in my reflective walled tent". If you think about it they saved us a lot of hassle with these. No soldering, no thermal paste, no active cooling "normal use", no extravagant DIY fabrication of light frame and I'm sure I'm missing a few more. I'm glad I jumped in and got mine =0)
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I think they have a hit on their hands.
 
dandyrandy

dandyrandy

Well-Known Member
1000ppm said:
I do like the idea of a fuse holder better. Easier to replace and probably a screw-down vs solder. Not a big deal soldering but kind of a pain if they blow for protection. Does only the positive leg need the fuse or both positive and negative?

3 boards on a 320h c2800b
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Doesn't matter.
 
MMJ Dreaming 99

MMJ Dreaming 99

Well-Known Member
sixstring2112 said:
But you can add 2700k cobs and have all the colors of the rainbow lmao.im planning this very thing,4 qb with 4 x 2700k cree on the corners :)
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I was watching a May 2016 GrowMau5 video because he builds a DIY light mover. Why I watched was it moves not very far. I have a Light Rail 3.5 but want to get away from HPS and Stephen's QB looks to be the way to go. My experience with the Light Rail is that a 6 foot run is too far on a light mover unless you have two lights on it.

What was interesting is GrowMau5 was running a sh*tload of cobs. He put notes on the screen after he shot the video. He said he was getting 1200+ PPF and was bleaching the plants. So you can hit them with too much light. LOL! Sorry, I was not trying to thread jack just mentioned that you can hit em with too many photons. Most of us know that but even GrowMau5 can screw up. Also I think I like the spread of the QB boards over cobs. ;-)

 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
1000ppm said:
I do like the idea of a fuse holder better. Easier to replace and probably a screw-down vs solder. Not a big deal soldering but kind of a pain if they blow for protection. Does only the positive leg need the fuse or both positive and negative?

3 boards on a 320h c2800b
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dandyrandy said:
Doesn't matter.
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Yes it does; one fuse is fine on 120V, but if you hook it up to 240V you'll need fuses on both legs.
 
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1000ppm

Well-Known Member
When you say primary and secondary you just mean input and output correct.
I will be powering the drivers with 240v so I can draw less current and don't have to change existing powering setup.

I assume output of driver is the same regardless of input powering choice 120 vs 240v.
 
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1000ppm

Well-Known Member
Stephenj37826 said:
Watts are watts. It will run cooler than a 600 HPS but similar to a 400 HPS/MH. The best thing to do is use a thermostat control on your fan. 82° is good for LEDs with an RH of 50% if the the is lower run a little cooler. Also the cobs could be added but I think I would go with some mono reds if I was looking for a little extra kick. Some of those stars from cutter could be mounted straight to the plate.
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What stars are you referring to for the reds? How many stars per board ratio would you recommend?
 
muleface

muleface

Well-Known Member
anyone have any thoughts on a decent par meter? Or anyone interested in selling a used one? I'd like to get my light dialed in.
 
BuddyColas

BuddyColas

Well-Known Member
Stephenj37826 said:
For light placement (evenness) a cheap LUX meter will do the trick. You can even get decent par readings using the appropriate multiplier (see par multiplier thread).
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I second that. Even a top-drawer SQ-500 is +/- 5% calibration uncertainty. All I have ever used is a Hydrofarm LUX meter (about 35ish dollars) and a correction factor for the light type. I figure the readings with correction factor are +/- 10% or so from a Cadillac PAR meter. It works great for spacing cobs down a bar, spacing the bars, and adjusting for height for even light coverage. My 2 cents worth: buy a LUX meter and save your money for lighting!
 
muleface

muleface

Well-Known Member
BuddyColas said:
I second that. Even a top-drawer SQ-500 is +/- 5% calibration uncertainty. All I have ever used is a Hydrofarm LUX meter (about 35ish dollars) and a correction factor for the light type. I figure the readings with correction factor are +/- 10% or so from a Cadillac PAR meter. It works great for spacing cobs down a bar, spacing the bars, and adjusting for height for even light coverage. My 2 cents worth: buy a LUX meter and save your money for lighting!
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I have a cheap lux meter, but really im not sure how to read it properly. I can use it to see if my light is evenly spaced, but im not really sure how much light i should be giving my plants. mine seems to have a multiplier on it. so as the light increases, the numbers get to about 1000x then the last zero drops off.
 

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BuddyColas

BuddyColas

Well-Known Member
muleface said:
I have a cheap lux meter, but really im not sure how to read it properly. I can use it to see if my light is evenly spaced, but im not really sure how much light i should be giving my plants. mine seems to have a multiplier on it. so as the light increases, the numbers get to about 1000x then the last zero drops off.
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So if you added 2 zeros to that reading it would be 34,700 LUX. Then say you were under a QB board, then the "multiplier" correction factor would be 0.014505. LUX reading times multiplier for about 503 ppfd.

Your plants look small. So I have had good results with around 350ish ppfd to veg and 700 ppfd to flower. Just me.
 
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