If I were trying to keep water oxygenated, I'd use one of these hang-on aquarium filters. They form a wide waterfall on the outlet That exposes a large area of new water to the air for gas exchange, then dropping it deep under the water surface again while pushing old water up. Fill it with a bunch of ceramic media, sandwiched between 1/4" batting or filter floss, to improve performance. Bacteria will grow in it that will convert ammonia (which is the first thing organic stuff gives off when they die) into nitrates and those into nitrites. You could, in theory, create a nice stable water environment that is not friendly to slime, mold and harmful bacteria. Any fraction of food supplied by bacteria is going to come at a lower cost to the plant than sequestering it from a chemical source.
That will work great for a conventional system that has plumbing connected each DWC bin together. But if somebody wanted the option of not plumbing the DWC bins together (because it’s not necessary) you would use air stones. Your method cannot work for isolated bins. Also, your method does not do anything to up the bubble game of the OP. That method does not create a plethora of bursting bubbles above the water line of a DWC bin.
The reason why you want isolated bins that are not plumbed together is because you only want the air bubbles traveling upward without any cross current pulling water into a pipe (as in a recirculating system) to get the most bubbles to pop above the waterline without any interference.
Also, you never need to check or pH your nutrient solution after the first preparation before it enters your DWC system if you adjust properly enough that the pH stays between the 5.5-6.5 range for 7-10 days. Mine stays that way for about 2 weeks in early flowering but for as little as 7 days in late flowering.
One of the greatest masters, Heath Robinson, never checked anything between a 7 day interval. I learned this from him. He had stability because he used 100% inorganic nutrients in his systems, weather or not they were recirculating.
Think about it, if you could have multiple DWC bins that are automatically topped off and automatically water changed, why wouldn’t you want that? Heath Robinson proved beyond the shadow of any doubt that you don’t need to check anything in between water changes. When a DWC master (such as Heath) shows repeatedly that a certain method works (without checking between water changes) I’m gonna weigh his posts with almost the same importance as (for example) a respected journal of a scientific discipline.
Furthermore, when you use isolated bins (besides getting maximum bubbles) you are able to add more or less nutrient to each container depending on which strain you are running by simply allowing a different time delayed cut out of the dosing system for when a particular holding tank is filled to supply change water for 1 or more DWC bins.
Total control. Automatically. My system saves 10 man hours of labor per week just on the water change aspect and automatically tops off each container (without a float switch, rather a different level sensor that cannot get hung up or fail under the conditions of use) whenever there is a 1-1/2” difference in water line height. Believe it or not, it’s kind of easy to set up for smaller grows.
Also, there is never ever any need to scrub the inside of the containers. The solution to pollution is dilution. Just do the water changes frequently, keep the undersides of the ceramic air discs super clean with super clean air and that little bit of slime that builds up on the surface of the air stone will not diminish performance.