What would you do?

cannabineer

Ursus marijanus
it does grow in all kinds of conditions and temperatures, but that doesn't mean there isn't an optimal range to be in.
there are advantages and disadvantages to growing indoors, so you have to take all the advantages you can. we can never equal the power of the sun, but we can give a balanced spectrum in the proper ranges for any amount of time, with no clouds. we can provide optimal temperatures, that the plant can function in at high efficiency. we can control the humidity, the air flow, the amount of food and water.....so why wouldn't you try to be at the optimal point for all of these, if you can?
I cannot resist this. What we can do however is to easily exceed the local power per area (luminosity) of the sun. We don't for two good reasons -
1) There is a point of diminishing returns with what the plant can do (and at the high end, tolerate without spontaneously combusting).
2) Lighting is typically the biggest line item in an indoor grower's budget. So we hobbyists and small-scale commercials look for how little light (in terms of kWh per realized weight of harvest) we can get by with.
 

curious2garden

Well-Known Mod
Staff member
I guess the problem between indirect and direct light is that under the light it spikes and this leads growers to think they are running at very hot and thus think any plant problems are heat. Led users trolled a fortune of less than knowledgable growers who though they could buy colder light.

Simply explaining the science of heat convection conduction and radiation and then going on to say how each affects the humidity and temp meters normally straightens the issue and learns ya some hard science that not just mj growers use, the air temps on your weather report, fan ovens etc etc.

Yes its important to know how to set and where to set a thermometer :-)
Ok this is one of the funniest things you've written, thanks.

One of the most important things I learned in medicine was treat the patient not the monitors, hope that helps.
 

cannabineer

Ursus marijanus
I guess the problem between indirect and direct light is that under the light it spikes and this leads growers to think they are running at very hot and thus think any plant problems are heat. Led users trolled a fortune of less than knowledgable growers who though they could buy colder light.

Simply explaining the science of heat convection conduction and radiation and then going on to say how each affects the humidity and temp meters normally straightens the issue and learns ya some hard science that not just mj growers use, the air temps on your weather report, fan ovens etc etc.

Yes its important to know how to set and where to set a thermometer :-)
The leaves and the thermometer experience the exact same thermal (radiative etc.) load. But living leaves are adaptable things whereas thermometers aren't. I believe this is an important point to consider when establishing the domain.
 

Coalcat

Well-Known Member
it does grow in all kinds of conditions and temperatures, but that doesn't mean there isn't an optimal range to be in.
there are advantages and disadvantages to growing indoors, so you have to take all the advantages you can. we can never equal the power of the sun, but we can give a balanced spectrum in the proper ranges for any amount of time, with no clouds. we can provide optimal temperatures, that the plant can function in at high efficiency. we can control the humidity, the air flow, the amount of food and water.....so why wouldn't you try to be at the optimal point for all of these, if you can?

Ohh I agree...I’m saying that if we are at the point of worrying about the diffence between a thermometer at canopy or slightly to the left we really really have everything dialed in. Getting 80-90% optimal is good enough for me...I don’t have the time or money to get that last 10%. I would love to see KG’s grow where his grow is so dialed in that he is worried about a few degrees difference. I’m ok with it’s x temp + or - 10 degrees, so many variables in a tent I worry about ranges....mid range....not riding the line and pushing it.
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Ohh I agree...I’m saying that if we are at the point of worrying about the diffence between a thermometer at canopy or slightly to the left we really really have everything dialed in. Getting 80-90% optimal is good enough for me...I don’t have the time or money to get that last 10%. I would love to see KG’s grow where his grow is so dialed in that he is worried about a few degrees difference. I’m ok with it’s x temp + or - 10 degrees, so many variables in a tent I worry about ranges....mid range....not riding the line and pushing it.
Thars not the point, a guy said he though he had heat stress or high temps and we solved it through good old science and turned out his tent is cooler than he thought.

Also its one of them threads lurkers and non poster will read and tbink 'Thank fuck this thread has a ckear answer to the question' as too many slightly less than optimal threads just leave a grower confused.

It dosent cost anything to move your thermometer to a shaded location and stop telling everyone what your canopy temps are doing.

Not sure why hard science has anything to do with my grow, many good growers use these and only these grow principles :-)
 

diggs99

Well-Known Member
Ive noticed 3 of my 4 girls are drying out pots at a much slower pace since the flip

is this normal? i assumed they would start drying out faster and faster, but obv with 6 hours less light, could slow down drying a little?

the biggest girl(top left) is going strong and drying out like normal...usually 4-5 days from soaked to dry

the other 3 are not. 2 of the smallest(top right,bottom left( were watered 6 days ago and still arent dry enough to water. tomorrow i assume they will take water.

the one that concerns me is the other bigger girl(bottom right), she was watered 4 days ago and is still heavy, prob still 2 days away from normal dryness, she also looks kinda weird to me. like not as full and healthy.
 

Attachments

Coalcat

Well-Known Member
Ive noticed 3 of my 4 girls are drying out pots at a much slower pace since the flip

is this normal? i assumed they would start drying out faster and faster, but obv with 6 hours less light, could slow down drying a little?

the biggest girl(top left) is going strong and drying out like normal...usually 4-5 days from soaked to dry

the other 3 are not. 2 of the smallest(top right,bottom left( were watered 6 days ago and still arent dry enough to water. tomorrow i assume they will take water.

the one that concerns me is the other bigger girl(bottom right), she was watered 4 days ago and is still heavy, prob still 2 days away from normal dryness, she also looks kinda weird to me. like not as full and healthy.
It’s the 6 hrs less light (30% less time in light which is significant) but also plants tend to “pause” for a bit before they start the stretch. The plant is changing from veg to flower. The plant is sort of in shock as the flowering hormones are building up and the plant is adjusting to 12-12. It’s normal and the growth will kick back up soon and excellerate. Some plants flower take this transition easier than others.
 

diggs99

Well-Known Member
It’s the 6 hrs less light (30% less time in light which is significant) but also plants tend to “pause” for a bit before they start the stretch. The plant is changing from veg to flower. The plant is sort of in shock as the flowering hormones are building up and the plant is adjusting to 12-12. It’s normal and the growth will kick back up soon and excellerate. Some plants flower take this transition easier than others.

Thank you very much, makes total sense

The big girl never missed a beat, just kept rolling along.

I really shoulda took clones from FP1, she has been a vigorous beast since she sprouted.
 
Top