DIY with Quantum Boards

[pop22]

Myself, I'd go with a 185H-54. It will give you close to or possibly more than 100 watts per board. Yes,you could run them harder than this but I feel 75-100 watts is the best compromise between output and efficiency. Get the A model, they tend to be under rated, the 185H can put out up to 200 watts

Any ideas how I should run 2 qb288's.
They have so many options. In series as well . I'm new to understanding how resistance is used to reduce overall wattage.
I= v/r?

 

[TerpyTyrone]

320-54 is a constant voltage driver and a 320-1750 is a constant current driver most of the time a CV is parallel and CC is series

what does the 100k pot control on the 240h-1750 cc driver? V = I x R
R = V/I ....so both right?

 

[shimbob]

what does the 100k pot control on the 240h-1750 cc driver? V = I x R
R = V/I ....so both right?

The pot is specifically for the dimming wires, absolutely not on the wires that power the led.

 

[TerpyTyrone]

The pot is specifically for the dimming wires, absolutely not on the wires that power the led.

I know that. How does adding the resistor adjust the wattage?

 

[shimbob]

I know that. How does adding the resistor adjust the wattage?

https://www.rollitup.org/t/meanwell-led-drivers-3-in-1-dimming-function.838760/
Does that answer your question?

 

[Mikenike]

Finally got my Saber build close to complete. Will be running 12 of them with two 4ft UB bulbs. Thanks to @Randomblame for the patience in helping me with this.

 

[Thegermling]

Finally got my Saber build close to complete. Will be running 12 of them with two 4ft UB bulbs. Thanks to @Randomblame for the patience in helping me with this.

View attachment 4326474

I see you used 80/20 extrusion. Can you take a close up pic of how you attached them to that frame?

 

[Mikenike]

I see you used 80/20 extrusion. Can you take a close up pic of how you attached them to that frame?

I used a M4 screw and matching tnut for it. I actually don’t like the mount for the saber strip but it works. Sucks tho, because it’s not really stable so if you bump it some can tilt/angle more one way.

 

[Thegermling]

I used a M4 screw and matching tnut for it. I actually don’t like the mount for the saber strip but it works. Sucks tho, because it’s not really stable so if you bump it some can tilt/angle more one way.

Really?
I was looking to build something just like that.

 

[Mikenike]

Really?
I was looking to build something just like that.

Don’t get me wrong I’m happy with it and wouldn’t do a different build given the chance, just a little bit picking is all

 

[GreeneryBob]

I used a M4 screw and matching tnut for it. I actually don’t like the mount for the saber strip but it works. Sucks tho, because it’s not really stable so if you bump it some can tilt/angle more one way.

Perhaps throwing in washers and lock washers could help tighten things up if it bothers you that much?

 

[daveybc]

I use the HLG 240H C2100a ( same driver as HLG 260 kit ) in series for 2 boards. Dial the IO pot down. If you think you may ever add a 3rd board a HLG 240H 54A in parallel. The 54 volt driver you can add boards to. Lots of driver options on the HLG website. Look at the data sheets as well for AMP draw and specs.

Any ideas how I should run 2 qb288's.
They have so many options. In series as well . I'm new to understanding how resistance is used to reduce overall wattage.
I= v/r?

 

[TerpyTyrone]

https://www.rollitup.org/t/meanwell-led-drivers-3-in-1-dimming-function.838760/
Does that answer your question?

Tyvm!! Perfect.
Also boards in series the wattage is additive and the mA remains the same whereas parallel the wattage remains the same and the current is additive?

 

[Mikenike]

@Stephenj37826 @robincnn do you guys have a lux conversion factor for the new Rspec boards/saber strips?

 

[.RootDown]

Hey @Stephenj37826 @robincnn while you're here do you have anything planned to replace the QB 11 red in the works? I like the QB 18 but it just doesn't fit in my space. I was lucky to grab a pair of QB 11 blues last week, need a pair of reds now.

 

[Stephenj37826]

Hey @Stephenj37826 @robincnn while you're here do you have anything planned to replace the QB 11 red in the works? I like the QB 18 but it just doesn't fit in my space. I was lucky to grab a pair of QB 11 blues last week, need a pair of reds now.

Yes we will be making a 2 ft strip soon.

 

[SB85]

Yes we will be making a 2 ft strip soon.

Would a slate 6 with 4 boards on the 600 driver do good in a 5x5 tent? i'm asking because looking to upgrade from my 4x4.

 

[Mуth]

Hey guys,

Would anyone mind explaining the differences between the 320w 288 boards and the 320w 324 boards? I'm getting one or the other but I have no idea which would be a better choice for a 4x2 and eventually a 4x3. Thank you!

 

[daveybc]

For a 5x5 you will probably want more than the 4 288's. Perhaps more like 2 320 kits ( 6 qb288 ) to start. This still may leave you a little short on watts per square foot unless driven hard. 9 QB 288 or QB96E would kill it ( 3 rows of 3 ) and you could dim down too which is key for warmer months. Perhaps a good space for 12 QB120/132 ( 3 rows of 4 ), this would be most economical. I like multiple drivers for redundancy.

There is a lot of choices these days at HLG. QB288's ( rspec coming ), QB96E, QB120/132, Light Saber, Reds/Bues ect. Good luck choosing.

Edit: If you buy single heat sinks you will have better flexibility in spacing tor boards. Use angled aluminum to hold everything together. Lots of reference on this thread.

Would a slate 6 with 4 boards on the 600 driver do good in a 5x5 tent? i'm asking because looking to upgrade from my 4x4.

 

[TerpyTyrone]

For a 5x5 you will probably want more than the 4 288's. Perhaps more like 2 320 kits ( 6 qb288 ) to start. This still may leave you a little short on watts per square foot unless driven hard. 9 QB 288 or QB96E would kill it ( 3 rows of 3 ) and you could dim down too which is key for warmer months. Perhaps a good space for 12 QB120/132 ( 3 rows of 4 ), this would be most economical. I like multiple drivers for redundancy.

There is a lot of choices these days at HLG. QB288's ( rspec coming ), QB96E, QB120/132, Light Saber, Reds/Bues ect. Good luck choosing.

Edit: If you buy single heat sinks you will have better flexibility in spacing tor boards. Use angled aluminum to hold everything together. Lots of reference on this thread.

All 672 pages of it! Phew!!