DIY with Quantum Boards
- Thread starter robincnn
- Start date
pop22
Well-Known Member
Yes, salts runs of is a huge problem but it was cause by the "more is good and too much is just enough" attitude. I have raised beds and they are strictly organic. Organics indoors is too much work for me, I did it for almost 4 years, but I'm too broken to keep it up. Mega Crop has made it so much easier for me not having to dump pots and mix soil and re-pot etc etc.
i re use cocoi do flush it though. Salt run off in general is another bad one, specially outdoors.
im a firm believer the world is ending. weve past the point of no return. we had one job!
lukio
Well-Known Member
difficult to argue against MC, i do still love it.
id like to try organic one day, great knowledge to have that i lack i reckon. its on the list!
What im talking about with the stretch on the rspecs. This is day 14 of 12/12. This plant has almost doubled in height and when its finally done the tops will be burning. On a V2 they wont burn and they dont stretch as much. Im going to have to cut the tallest branches and in the end a lot of the branches will be falling down. Cut back watering, lower heat and do extensive training. This cycle im going to try pinching the tallest branches, then if they get up to the light and get burned il cut them back. Solid bud formation and healthy growth besides the stretching though. I wonder if cutting back on N would have any effect.
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Warpedpassage
Well-Known Member
So they are stretching like they do under hps rather than the typical “white” led you are accustomed to? Plant looks very nice. Thanks for posting.
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Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
Hopefully this doesn’t open a can of worms .....
IMO it’s the plant not the light ...... you have a heavy Sativa / landrace like looking plant.
Some African and Himalayan strains look exactly like those ... some outdoor run plants can get over 15foot tall. The wide internode spacing shows a lanky branch that they often have.
You are also in the typical STRETCH PHASE of flower hence the huge growth spurt.
I would ( my opinion) super crop them then just let them be. I am certain you will be in for a long
flower with this one ....possibly over 100 days even.
Warpedpassage
Well-Known Member
I tend to agree with you on this, rspec has no far red, and the 660 isn't excessive.
I too am curious about the genetics.
Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
Sometimes you get those TALL GIRL strains . Thinking if that one was buried outside she would have been a very big plant out in the wild. These plants always remind me of bamboo plants lol.
Hey,
I just found another greenleaf thread on another forum/site. I was trying to catch up and get some info. Maybe you can help clarify. I'm unsure about the formulations and versions of MC.
So there was V1. That's long gone.
Then V2 was announced with some changes (can't remember what)
But I've also read posts (from members, and from greenleaf accounts) about other intermediate changes that happened or something, and the term V2.5. They said they were upping the Phosphorus, Mag, and some other changes.
Can you fill in the blanks of chronology/correct me?
I know I'd have "V2", but I'd like the newest formulation with increased P. Because 10-"7"18 (48ppm) seems quite low, doesn't it?
Thanks
I've been wondering about that can since someone mentioned spindly growth under an Rspec. Just anecdotal I guess.
Schmarmpit
Well-Known Member
I have a couple QB18 (V1) boards and I removed 4 red LEDs and replaced them with Luminus 460nm, recommended by @Stephenj37826 . Here are the different ratios of Blue : Red : DeepRed : FarRed across their models. I'm interested to see if this makes any difference in my next flowering round. I have been using the QB18 V1 throughout the entire flowering period for several grows now. I grow in a cold basement and my plants showed a huge benefit from the added red to my HLG600 3000K, especially in winter. But I've always felt I cold be missing something in the blues. Probably a minimal change but I do love to tinker with electronics.
pop22
Well-Known Member
Greenleaf reduced N a bit and increased Cal/Mag. I believe they increased P a bit also. And as to the numbers being low. have you ever looked at the numbers on bottled nutrients? Also, look at dry, organic nutrient packages, the are often stated as 5-5-5 or 4-3-3. honestly, these numbers are actually pretty meaningless. Your plants don't care about these ratios. They take in what they need, when they need it. All they need is enough of each to be available. I've been using Mega 2.0 since its release and I can tell you, I've had the healthiest plants ever. I feed only Mega, no other additives, I don't believe in there use, bloom boosters, etc. I've no desire to feed my plants hormones, etc. THESE are the things I consider "nasty chemicals", not anything that people imagine are in their nutrients.
Actually, you can probably find more about this on their webpage, RIU fucked them over here to give another nutrient company priority..
( DynaGrow ) then deleted their thread. Fuck of a thing to do to a company that got their start here!
Actually, you can probably find more about this on their webpage, RIU fucked them over here to give another nutrient company priority..
( DynaGrow ) then deleted their thread. Fuck of a thing to do to a company that got their start here!
Hey,
I just found another greenleaf thread on another forum/site. I was trying to catch up and get some info. Maybe you can help clarify. I'm unsure about the formulations and versions of MC.
So there was V1. That's long gone.
Then V2 was announced with some changes (can't remember what)
But I've also read posts (from members, and from greenleaf accounts) about other intermediate changes that happened or something, and the term V2.5. They said they were upping the Phosphorus, Mag, and some other changes.
Can you fill in the blanks of chronology/correct me?
I know I'd have "V2", but I'd like the newest formulation with increased P. Because 10-"7"18 (48ppm) seems quite low, doesn't it?
Thanks
I remember reading about that thread deleting thing when I first joined RIU. Bullshit.
Those are the changes I'd thought I remembered reading (N decrease, Cl and/or Mg, and P increase). They said they'd post about it (other site) but haven't still.
I've read everything on their site. I love all the info they give, and the elemental breakdown they provide.
When I referred to the number being low - I put "P" in quotes because I was saying that the *ratio* of P to the others elements is low, not that the concentration is low (all numbers/npk). This is definitely not meaningless, but I think you misunderstood me on that point.
(If you go to their feed calculator and hit the "elemental" tab, this is what I'm referring to; the "48ppm" of P. But, now I'm thinking that Jack's 3-2-1 might also have 48ppm of P at it's recommended rate of "3-2-1" or whatever.)
Also, they raised their P and lowered the N. So that should really tell us these things do matter shouldn't it? I get your point though, and I don't disagree. Man, this topic is really deep when you get (too) into it. Lol.
Lastly, can anyone help me find the app/software/program that is an Elemental PPM Calculator / Nutrient profile calculator, the same as is used in the greengenesgarden video on how to mix Jacks 321? It looks like a very basic "table" design with white background, rows and columns. It allows for multiple nutrient profiles to be compared side by side for various mixtures of inputs/products - and I'm quite sure it calculates them from values you enter.
I should check out some of your grow journals, think I will.
Thanks.
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Thegermling
Well-Known Member
I’m not sure which one he uses but some free calculators are cannastats and hydrobuddy. There’s like 3 other ones but I forgot the names.
Hey, thanks man.
Yea I know of cannastats, and just recently found one at manix botanix (they have several useful tools). But what I want is a software/app that I can have to do it on my own. I think what I saw some others using is actually an excell sheet they've made and entered the math/formulae to it to create their own. And it's nice to have several columns to compare different mixes/brands.
Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
Figured I do a light update on filling up a new tent ....
Running the QB 96s over some new plants . I am planning a perpetual indoor grow running pairs / quads approximately
2-3 weeks apart . This way if I need space I can “ adjust “ by moving plants based on growth stage if needed.
I am running 280 ish watts currently and will bump up later and add a solo board ( have a 3500k 150w solo ) or strip .
I also have that 630-660 All Red rig I can add for flower later . I am running a NoTill mix of FFOF/ EB STONE with FFOF at bottom and EB STONE as top fill with a small scoop of Great White layered between. This will be a water only run with top dress feed ( FFOF ) when needed during later grow.
I have been experimenting with No Till recipes for simplicity and am tossing a lot of my bottled nute shit.
I currently will only keep “ dry amendments “ instead .... MEGACROP / Dr. Earth LIFE and Dr. Earth Fruit / Veg.
I do plan to run HEMPY BUCKETS later and that will be on GH MAXIBLOOM .
No more Dynagro ( hated the solution dropping out during storage ) ...
Plants are doing well from germ to to current stage on PH 6.5 only.
GOJIBERRY ( gave one away around same size to a buddy ) .... there was originally a pair but did my homie a solid.
This plant has gotten some LST started and will top .
SOUR STOMPER ( about 2 weeks behind goji ) and running pair. They will also get topped and trained later. But are happy so far.
4 KING KONG POISON seeds .... have been dunked ( hydrated til they sunk ) and are in small soil cups until they get “ BAGGED “
Running the QB 96s over some new plants . I am planning a perpetual indoor grow running pairs / quads approximately
2-3 weeks apart . This way if I need space I can “ adjust “ by moving plants based on growth stage if needed.
I am running 280 ish watts currently and will bump up later and add a solo board ( have a 3500k 150w solo ) or strip .
I also have that 630-660 All Red rig I can add for flower later . I am running a NoTill mix of FFOF/ EB STONE with FFOF at bottom and EB STONE as top fill with a small scoop of Great White layered between. This will be a water only run with top dress feed ( FFOF ) when needed during later grow.
I have been experimenting with No Till recipes for simplicity and am tossing a lot of my bottled nute shit.
I currently will only keep “ dry amendments “ instead .... MEGACROP / Dr. Earth LIFE and Dr. Earth Fruit / Veg.
I do plan to run HEMPY BUCKETS later and that will be on GH MAXIBLOOM .
No more Dynagro ( hated the solution dropping out during storage ) ...
Plants are doing well from germ to to current stage on PH 6.5 only.
GOJIBERRY ( gave one away around same size to a buddy ) .... there was originally a pair but did my homie a solid.
This plant has gotten some LST started and will top .
SOUR STOMPER ( about 2 weeks behind goji ) and running pair. They will also get topped and trained later. But are happy so far.
4 KING KONG POISON seeds .... have been dunked ( hydrated til they sunk ) and are in small soil cups until they get “ BAGGED “
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I use hydrobuddy to mix out my ferts, it takes a minute to figure it out but once you do it makes life easy....used to use megacrop v1/v2.... on jacks now as it gives me a bit more control/leaves me with a cleaner res.
Megacrop v2 is pretty low on mag and phos in my opinion and too high in K
Megacrop v2 is pretty low on mag and phos in my opinion and too high in K
pop22
Well-Known Member
I'm doing no till in auto pots. Haven't changed the soil in almost 3 years now. I cut out the stump and plant in the hole. I've fed these pots Megacrop almost that long also. And they've never been flushed, yet I don't have nutrient related problems. So much for "salts" build up!
Figured I do a light update on filling up a new tent ....
Running the QB 96s over some new plants . I am planning a perpetual indoor grow running pairs / quads approximately
2-3 weeks apart . This way if I need space I can “ adjust “ by moving plants based on growth stage if needed.
I am running 280 ish watts currently and will bump up later and add a solo board ( have a 3500k 150w solo ) or strip .
I also have that 630-660 All Red rig I can add for flower later . I am running a NoTill mix of FFOF/ EB STONE with FFOF at bottom and EB STONE as top fill with a small scoop of Great White layered between. This will be a water only run with top dress feed ( FFOF ) when needed during later grow.
I have been experimenting with No Till recipes for simplicity and am tossing a lot of my bottled nute shit.
I currently will only keep “ dry amendments “ instead .... MEGACROP / Dr. Earth LIFE and Dr. Earth Fruit / Veg.
I do plan to run HEMPY BUCKETS later and that will be on GH MAXIBLOOM .
No more Dynagro ( hated the solution dropping out during storage ) ...
Plants are doing well from germ to to current stage on PH 6.5 only.
GOJIBERRY ( gave one away around same size to a buddy ) .... there was originally a pair but did my homie a solid.
This plant has gotten some LST started and will top .
SOUR STOMPER ( about 2 weeks behind goji ) and running pair. They will also get topped and trained later. But are happy so far.
4 KING KONG POISON seeds .... have been dunked ( hydrated til they sunk ) and are in small soil cups until they get “ BAGGED “
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