Horticulture Lighting Group HLG 350R how much heat compared to other lights?

ilovetoskiatalta

Well-Known Member
As the thread says wondering about the heat compared to two 315cmh or a 600hps?
It comes with the ballast mounted to the unit. Has anyone made it a remote ballast.
The 3x5 footprint is what i want to cover. I do have height restriction of 78".
Thanks, Alta

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Boatguy

Well-Known Member
As the thread says wondering about the heat compared to two 315cmh or a 600hps?
It comes with the ballast mounted to the unit. Has anyone made it a remote ballast.
The 3x5 footprint is what i want to cover. I do have height restriction of 78".
Thanks, Alta

.
Some will disagree, but i believe 600w produces the same amount of heat with hid as led. The way it radiates is different, but ventilation needs will be the same.
You can move the driver out of the tent without a problem. That would cut down on some of the heat. Mine get hot to the touch.
 

bk78

Well-Known Member
Some will disagree, but i believe 600w produces the same amount of heat with hid as led. The way it radiates is different, but ventilation needs will be the same.
You can move the driver out of the tent without a problem. That would cut down on some of the heat. Mine get hot to the touch.
I agree 100% about the heat, but I welcome any heat I can get in my new room.
 

ilovetoskiatalta

Well-Known Member
Some will disagree, but i believe 600w produces the same amount of heat with hid as led. The way it radiates is different, but ventilation needs will be the same.
You can move the driver out of the tent without a problem. That would cut down on some of the heat. Mine get hot to the touch.
I had cooled hoods so that is how i kept heat down with 1000 SE hps. How do you cool one of these things?
 

V256.420

Well-Known Member
I just switched to LED from air cooled hoods myself. I noticed most of the heat stays trapped under the light itself.

So what I did with my 4 x 4 tents was keep extracting from the top on one side of the tent and closed up all the other top openings real tight. Then I used 6" duct from opposite sides on the bottom of the tent for intake. This air blows underneath the light from both sides and pulls all the heat to the top where it is extracted.

Tent with light hanging:

DSCN0563.JPG

Top extraction:

DSCN0562.JPG

Bottom intake 1:

DSCN0560.JPG

Bottom intake 2:

DSCN0561.JPG

I think I will eventually use 4" duct and wrap it around the inside of the tent going from one side to the other. Then slice small slits in it every 4 to 6 inches or so. This way I can get a more even flow of air coming in from around the bottom of the tent and out thru the top.

The spoon and fork on the light are counter weights till I figure something out :blsmoke:
 

ilovetoskiatalta

Well-Known Member
I just switched to LED from air cooled hoods myself. I noticed most of the heat stays trapped under the light itself.

So what I did with my 4 x 4 tents was keep extracting from the top on one side of the tent and closed up all the other top openings real tight. Then I used 6" duct from opposite sides on the bottom of the tent for intake. This air blows underneath the light from both sides and pulls all the heat to the top where it is extracted.

Tent with light hanging:

View attachment 4714258

Top extraction:

View attachment 4714259

Bottom intake 1:

View attachment 4714260

Bottom intake 2:

View attachment 4714261

I think I will eventually use 4" duct and wrap it around the inside of the tent going from one side to the other. Then slice small slits in it every 4 to 6 inches or so. This way I can get a more even flow of air coming in from around the bottom of the tent and out thru the top.

The spoon and fork on the light are counter weights till I figure something out :blsmoke:
So not a lot of heat above, near the driver. So focus on moving air across the canopy. Thanks for the input.
 

ilovetoskiatalta

Well-Known Member
You need less watts, so less heat. Depends on the space, but a 5x5 could go from 1200w, to as little as 900w.
Leds have less radiant heat as well which makes a big difference.
So my post was confusing. I used to run SE 1000w hps and my hoods were cooled. Totally different set up but I understand how to cool a conventional bulb. I now use vertical 315cmh with Hortilux bulbs. I do not air cool them(bulb is too long). I want to try this light and swap out two 315 cmh for this one LED to see what is all the hype is.
 

7CardBud

Well-Known Member
This would be a rough guesstimate of the difference in heat vs your last setup.

Assuming both drivers/ballasts pull 350W

You will be running half the watts
By the numbers CMH is about 66% as efficient as the HLG

100 x 0.5 x 0.66
So about 1/3 the heat.
 

MidnightSun72

Well-Known Member
As the thread says wondering about the heat compared to two 315cmh or a 600hps?
It comes with the ballast mounted to the unit. Has anyone made it a remote ballast.
The 3x5 footprint is what i want to cover. I do have height restriction of 78".
Thanks, Alta

.
HLG 350R = 1125 BTU
315W CMH= 1176 BTU
600W HPS= 2046 BTU

btw these are all without the ballast. Add another 300-500 btu for the ballast on the CMH and HPS
 

ilovetoskiatalta

Well-Known Member
HLG 350R = 1125 BTU
315W CMH= 1176 BTU
600W HPS= 2046 BTU

btw these are all without the ballast. Add another 300-500 btu for the ballast on the CMH and HPS
@MidnightSun72
So the goal is to replace two 315 cmh with one HLG350r. I was told that my phantom actually pulls 340w at the wall. HLG stated that they pull 340 at the wall.
The 315 with ballast(@ 400 per ballast 240v) would be a total of 1976 BTU.

@7CardBud what is the 100 and the .5 with .66 being efficiancy rating.

Does this QB really cover a 5' x 3'? This has potential to reduce watts by half ? Or am I delusional?

Thanks
 

ilovetoskiatalta

Well-Known Member
HLG 350R = 1125 BTU
315W CMH= 1176 BTU
600W HPS= 2046 BTU

btw these are all without the ballast. Add another 300-500 btu for the ballast on the CMH and HPS
Where did you get the thermal output of the HLG 350? Does that include the ballast or do i have to add 400btu to the 1125btu for a total of 1525btu.
 

Boatguy

Well-Known Member
Im not sure where he pulled those numbers. The basic rule of thumb for hlg fixtures is 35w per sq/ft. Going by that, Ideally you would be using 525w of led. You could get away with alittle less but 300w would probably be a disappointment with the yields you are used to with the 1000 or 2 315's
 

ilovetoskiatalta

Well-Known Member
Im not sure where he pulled those numbers. The basic rule of thumb for hlg fixtures is 35w per sq/ft. Going by that, Ideally you would be using 525w of led. You could get away with alittle less but 300w would probably be a disappointment with the yields you are used to with the 1000 or 2 315's
I do not use the hps anymore. The QB that HLG says a 3'x5' which i only care about the 3'. The lights are in linear sequence with appropriate overlap.
 

1212ham

Well-Known Member
I do not use the hps anymore. The QB that HLG says a 3'x5' which i only care about the 3'. The lights are in linear sequence with appropriate overlap.
That has to be an error on the HLG site. Boatguy is quite correct, you want around 35 watts per square/foot. A 3x5 is 15 sq/ft. so 525w.
 
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V256.420

Well-Known Member
If I did 35 watts psf in my 4 x 4 with the HLG 550 Bspec I would melt my plants. I think it only goes up to 480 watts tho. Which is 30 watts psf. I originally installed the light with it turned to 100%. Burned up my plants pretty quickly.

I can always move it up a foot and turn it to 100% but why use more watts. It kicks ass with the dial right in the middle. I don't know how many watts it is running at until I get a meter next week. I guess it depends on the light source.
 

MidnightSun72

Well-Known Member
So does the HLG 350 account for the ballast mounted to the top of the fixture?
Thanks
Depends what driver you use. Whatever the efficiency of the driver is the rest of the percentage of the watts to to heat. So a driver that concerts 90% of 600w to dc power there will be 60W heat wasted. Or 60x3.41 btu = 204 btu
 
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